Another LTD02 Designed Sub Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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First, many thanks to LTD02 for all his help and for coming up with a number of designs that are currently being built by some members here.

As such, I have decided to build one of LTD’s designs which is essentially a variation of the Martysub. I believe LTD had first made this design for member 316, but I think he needed a different form factor. Here is what LTD had to say about this design:

“super simple front firing cannon subwoofer build.
24" wide x 30" tall x 36" deep.
no consideration was made with respect to being cut sheet friendly. :-) if the panels are 1/2" smaller here or there it doesn't matter.
slot loaded cab. 2.5" tall slot x 21" wide x effective 36" long. with 20% winisd adjustment for slot port that gives a total effective length of around 44" and tuning frequency of around 16hz maybe a hair lower with the port proximity to the rear wall of the enclosure.
cabinet is about 11.2 cubic feet net or so depending on extent of bracing.
all in all, this is essentially a marty sub, but with a different form factor. a little more raw.
front mounted driver. no recess. double baffle.
driver cutout will be whatever the spec is for the driver used.
16.7" diameter for the stereo integrity 18
16.69" diameter for the dayton rss460ho
driver excursion goes to xmax with 1100 watts. good.
port velocity is low even at 1100 watts. good.”


More information is available at this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1494429/help-with-speaker-subwoofer-design/30#post_23831483


Here are some of LTD's diagrams on this design:







Here is my cut list:

TOP PANEL 24 X 36
BOTTOM PANEL 24 X 36
RIGHT SIDE PANEL 28.5 X 36
LEFT SIDE PANEL 28.5 X 36
FRONT PANELS 22.5 X 25.25 (DOUBLE BAFFLE)
BACK PANEL 22.5 X 28.5
SLOT BRACES 2.5 X 35.25 (2 SLOT BOARDS TO CREATE VENTS)
SLOT BOARDS 22.5 X 31.75

CAB REQUIREMENT APPROXIMATELY 1.5 SHEETS OF 4 X 8 .75 MDF

I will be using the SI 18 D4 Driver, powered by a Behringer iNuke 6000 DSP.

Altogether, I needed to purchase two 4 x 8 x .75 sheets MDF but only used about 1.5 sheets. The leftovers were used to make 1 x 3 strips for internal bracing. Home Depot did a great job making all the cuts to precision and I took the front panels to a carpenter who routed the cut-outs on the front baffles.






Thanks in advance for all the help I know I am going to need. biggrin.gif
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post #2 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 04:44 PM
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Good luck on your build. I just finished Marty sub and I couldn't be happier . Now I want to build my three fronts and two rear speakers . Have to wait a couple of months for some extra cash. This diy can get pricey.biggrin.gif
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post #3 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 04:53 PM
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ah, that's too much credit. i just helped you figure out what you had asked about. your build will need a name...

as it turns out, those dimensions are pretty cut sheet friendly if others want to build some too...

"I will be using the SI 18 D4 Driver, powered by a Behringer iNuke 6000 DSP."..."and i will be running it off one channel with the limiter. the reason that i got the big amp is that if this build works out, i'm going in for more..." :-)

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post #4 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 04:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Good luck on your build. I just finished Marty sub and I couldn't be happier . Now I want to build my three fronts and two rear speakers . Have to wait a couple of months for some extra cash. This diy can get pricey.biggrin.gif

Yeh, I know....I just finished building three of Erich's SEOS Tempests (which I seem to love more and more every time I hear them) and I still have to build two (smaller SEOS) surrounds. With all the little this-and-thats it can all add up pretty quickly. But, this whole DIY thing is very addictive once you come to realize the great price/performance/satisfaction components. it's a disease I tell ya!!!
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post #5 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 05:07 PM
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Good stuff. You could power four of these off that single 6k. biggrin.gifwink.gif

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post #6 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

ah, that's too much credit. i just helped you figure out what you had asked about. your build will need a name...

as it turns out, those dimensions are pretty cut sheet friendly if others want to build some too...

"I will be using the SI 18 D4 Driver, powered by a Behringer iNuke 6000 DSP."..."and i will be running it off one channel with the limiter. the reason that i got the big amp is that if this build works out, i'm going in for more..." :-)

1) Credit's well deserved, and then some
2) A suitable name for this monstrosity would be great....something really menacing...
3) True, these dimensions are really cut-friendly. Whole thing with cuts cost only $82 (canadian)
4) Running the amp off one channel with limiter and going back for more................Couldn't have said it any better myself.
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post #7 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

[quote name="chalugadp" url="/t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build#post_23872512"]Good luck on your build. I just finished Marty sub and I couldn't be happier . Now I want to build my three fronts and two rear speakers . Have to wait a couple of months for some extra cash. This diy can get pricey.:D[/quote]Yeh, I know....I just finished building three of Erich's SEOS Tempests (which I seem to love more and more every time I hear them) and I still have to build two (smaller SEOS) surrounds. With all the little this-and-thats it can all add up pretty quickly. But, this whole DIY thing is very addictive once you come to realize the great price/performance/satisfaction components. it's a disease I tell ya!!!
Going to start with fusion 8 for rears and see how I like waveguide . Then fronts will be either tux 1099 or tempests .
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post #8 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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To Chalugadp and/or Mhutchins,

Since you have already completed the first two Martysubs and I am about to build a Martysub variant, Can you please tell me:

1) what was your build sequence starting with the base panel?
2) Did you glue and/or brad nail?
3) In hindsight, what is the easiest way to attach the braces (after assembling all the sides and the base or while one side was open?)
4) Is there anything I should be aware of that would make this process more efficient.


Thanks
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post #9 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

To Chalugadp and/or Mhutchins,Since you have already completed the first two Martysubs and I am about to build a Martysub variant, Can you please tell me:1) what was your build sequence starting with the base
panel?

Base and then sides , then back , and the tuning port and then bracing . Then the front baffle and then lining and finally top



2) Did you glue and/or brad nail?

I glued and Brad nailed and put about 80 screws in my.box. I wanted it strong enough to stand on which I can. To cover the screws I put cedar panels on the sides. You don't need the screws but I wanted it.bulletproof . Using brad nails eliminates the need to wait for clamps and glue to dry.


3) In hindsight, what is the easiest way to attach the braces (after assembling all the sides and the base or while one side was open?)

Definitely best to have bottom , sides , back , attached and then bracing




4) Is there anything I should be aware of that would make this process more efficient.Thanks

Have a good brad nailer like a bostich . Also much faster if you have a buddy to hold things in place.

Here's mine
gyrurary.jpgsmile.gif
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post #10 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 08:13 PM
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Cool! Looking forward to your build. Hope you’re planning on lots of pics..

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post #11 of 246 Old 10-24-2013, 08:18 PM
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Cool! Looking forward to your build. Hope you’re planning on lots of pics..

Yeah lots of pics cool.gif
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post #12 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 03:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Have a good brad nailer like a bostich . Also much faster if you have a buddy to hold things in place.

Here's mine
gyrurary.jpgsmile.gif

Thank you very much for the tips Chaluga, truly appreciated!!

And, oh yeah, there will be a lot of pictures.
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post #13 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 03:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Cool! Looking forward to your build. Hope you’re planning on lots of pics..

Yep, will be taking lots of pics biggrin.gif
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post #14 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 08:52 AM
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"4) Is there anything I should be aware of that would make this process more efficient."

dry fit before gluing anything up to make sure that all the panels are the right length and the box comes together as you are hoping. once you start gluing things, exponential time may be required for corrections.
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post #15 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Have a good brad nailer like a bostich . Also much faster if you have a buddy to hold things in place.

Here's mine
gyrurary.jpgsmile.gif

This makes me want to swap my 4 sealed daytons to 4 marty subs. ;-)

Nice!
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post #16 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"4) Is there anything I should be aware of that would make this process more efficient."

dry fit before gluing anything up to make sure that all the panels are the right length and the box comes together as you are hoping. once you start gluing things, exponential time may be required for corrections.

I will definitely do a dry fit before gluing.

thanks
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post #17 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 01:32 PM
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also, if you won't be clamping, predrilling and spax screws can hold things together as the glue dries. a bit the size of the core of the screw allows the threads to bite, but puts almost zero pressure on the wood which is what causes splitting.

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post #18 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

also, if you won't be clamping, predrilling and spax screws can hold things together as the glue dries. a bit the size of the core of the screw allows the threads to bite, but puts almost zero pressure on the wood which is what causes splitting.

Anyone know I can get spax screws in Canada. Went to home depot and rona and cannot find them.
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post #19 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

[quote name="LTD02" url="/t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build#post_23875505"]also, if you won't be clamping, predrilling and [U]spax[/U] screws can hold things together as the glue dries. a bit the size of the core of the screw allows the threads to bite, but puts almost zero pressure on the wood which is what causes splitting.[/quote]Anyone know I can get spax screws in Canada. Went to home depot and rona and cannot find them.

As a fellow canuck don't worry about the spax screws. Robertson #10 by 1 1/4 are just fine for the subwoofer . No need to predrill. They could hold a lot of weight.
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post #20 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 04:26 PM
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"As a fellow canuck don't worry about the spax screws. Robertson #10 by 1 1/4 are just fine for the subwoofer . No need to predrill. They could hold a lot of weight."

for the driver. agree.

i was referring to the panels.

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post #21 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Great, at least I know which screws to get for the woofer. Still unsure about what to do with the panels. Would brad nails and glue be ok??
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post #22 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 07:24 PM
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"Would brad nails and glue be ok??"

sure.

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post #23 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 07:38 PM
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the key with screws is a straight shank otherwise it acts like a wedge and can split the wood. ideally, the threads are only on the board that you want to hold to, other wise the screw and actually push the boards apart, but that isn't always an option. give it a couple test runs on scrap until you find something that you are comfortable with. or...clamp it.

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post #24 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

the key with screws is a straight shank otherwise it acts like a wedge and can split the wood. ideally, the threads are only on the board that you want to hold to, other wise the screw and actually push the boards apart, but that isn't always an option. give it a couple test runs on scrap until you find something that you are comfortable with. or...clamp it.

I definitely intend to use clamps and brad nails wherever I can. It's just that some of the parts are going to be awkward to use clamps; such as the the 2.5 inch port strips. I may be able to use clamps on one end (the front end) since it is flush with the front panel. However, it's not going to be possible to use clamps at the back end since there will be a 4.25 inch recess for the air gap.

I am also not entirely sure about attaching the braces. Chalugadp said: "Base and then sides , then back , and the tuning port and then bracing . Then the front baffle and then lining and finally top."

If I follow that sequence, how would it be possible to use clamps on the braces when the sides are already attached?.

thanks
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post #25 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 08:10 PM
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The brace should just wedge in there snug. I just used glue and brad nails. Didn't need to clamp it. The only time I needed a clamp was for the top.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Good luck on your build. I just finished Marty sub and I couldn't be happier . Now I want to build my three fronts and two rear speakers . Have to wait a couple of months for some extra cash. This diy can get pricey.biggrin.gif

Sounds like its time to sell some Tekton's to fund your new found DIY hobby...lol
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The brace should just wedge in there snug. I just used glue and brad nails. Didn't need to clamp it. The only time I needed a clamp was for the top.

Thanks Chalugadp. If am not mistaken, you fabricated the bracing outside the box and inserted after. I don't think I have the expertise or the tools to do that. I was thinking I would just build up the braces within the box, one piece at a time, much like mhutchins did. what do you think?
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post #28 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

[quote name="chalugadp" url="/t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build#post_23872512"]Good luck on your build. I just finished Marty sub and I couldn't be happier . Now I want to build my three fronts and two rear speakers . Have to wait a couple of months for some extra cash. This diy can get pricey.:D[/quote]Sounds like its time to sell some Tekton's to fund your new found DIY hobby...lol

Actually I'm going to put those downstairs in the bedroom . biggrin.gif
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post #29 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea View Post

[quote name="chalugadp" url="/t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build#post_23876594"]The brace should just wedge in there snug. I just used glue and brad nails. Didn't need to clamp it. The only time I needed a clamp was for the top.[/quote]Thanks Chalugadp. If am not mistaken, you fabricated the bracing outside the box and inserted after. I don't think I have the expertise or the tools to do that. I was thinking I would just build up the braces within the box, one piece at a time, much like mhutchins did. what do you think?
For. the braces I simply.used a jigsaw to cut out squares. You could use a handsaw as well. Very easy since their not needed to be precise
u3ypemuj.jpg
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post #30 of 246 Old 10-25-2013, 10:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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For. the braces I simply.used a jigsaw to cut out squares. You could use a handsaw as well. Very easy since their not needed to be precise
u3ypemuj.jpg

Thanks chaluga. looks manageable and I still have my friend's jigsaw. So, basically, I should make three of those cutouts and then add some smaller pieces between the squares (going front to back) or would the three squares be enough by themselves?
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