60/40 rosin core solder
DIY Sound Group: Information and Tips
“You are not special. You are not a beautiful and unique snowflake.” Chuck Palahniuk
This, you want to use 63/37 over 60/40.
If lead free silver solder is available I would use that. Weller makes good irons.
When soldering have a wet sponge to brush the tip on, then tip the iron with a little fresh solder right before you solder. Heat the area where you are going to solder but make sure you do not over heat the area and destroy it. The little bit of fresh solder on the tip will help heat up the area you are going to solder.
You want to be there just long enough to do the joint. Make sure the iron is completely heated before you start. You melt the solder on the joint surface when working.
The thickness of the metal on the joint will determine how long you are on the joint. Be aware of what that joint connects to. Normaly a joint shold take no more than a second or two.
Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!
I solderd for ten years and the weller I used came with a sponge tray.
- to solder all wire leads to the speaker tabs, crossover tabs, and outside speaker terminals
- to use a crimp-on tool to install push-on connectors on the wire for all these connections
Personal preference, however each is different.
In my opinion, a good quality spring terminal on the driver, or a well executed crimped connector is fine. Crossover "tabs", if it will ever need to come apart, again a well executed crimp connection is fine, if you want to solder it, go for it. A terminal strip with mechanical set screw type block is great too. WRT outside speaker terminals, I prefer bare wire, or a Neutrik Speakon. But, fwiw my entire 7.x system is active, so ymmv
Do it and forget about it, spend the effort elsewhere.
Flat, Deep, Clean, Linear, and Loud
Active 16.8kw, 7.3 system
(3)Seaton Cat12C up front, (4)QSC K8 sides/rears
(2)Seaton SubM-HP, (4)18" IB