Opinions on the CROWN XLI 3500 for sub duty - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 11-10-2013, 02:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Was checking out these amps and seem to maybe be a good fit for 2 Dayton 18" subs. The amp is rated at 1350 @ 4 ohms x 2. These amps do not come with all the bells and whistles they are the entry level amps. I do not need DSP features as I have a behringer feedback pr crossover that I can use. Does anybody have any experience with these amps running subs??

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post #2 of 35 Old 11-10-2013, 07:32 PM
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I have one. It worked great at pushing my pair of Ftw 21s. However there are better amps for sub duty. For Si 18s a Inuke 6000 will be more than adequate as well as much cheaper.
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post #3 of 35 Old 11-11-2013, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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So do you think the amp was putting out close to it's advertised wattage of 1350 per channel ???

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post #4 of 35 Old 11-11-2013, 11:20 AM
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Yes I believe so. However the Inuke 6000 was bench tested at roughly 2000 watts per channel @ 4 ohms. So it puts out more power and is $250 cheaper. Since neither amp is stable into 2ohms, I would say the Inuke 6000 is a much better deal for sub duty.
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post #5 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 10:35 AM
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I would rather have the crown , Price is already down to 649.00!!!!! for it. Plus its a 43 lb hybrid amp using the best of both conventional and switch mode power supply.
Much better qualiity.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crown-XLI3500-Stereo-2-Channel-2700-Watt-Power-Amplifier-/370828243033?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item565715f059

A Good amplifier requires a adequate power supply, It does not matter what the amplifier is capable of if the power supply will not provide the power required. Most amplifiers have under rated power supplies. It is up to you to make sure you get the ones that are
least under rated if at all.
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post #6 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I have two XLS1000's bridged @1100 watts going to each Dayton 18. I am looking for a little more power. I price matched a peavey IPR2 5000 from zZSOUNDS for $580.00 I am thinking about going ahead and pulling the trigger on that tomorrow. That will give me 1510 per sub or so I don't know if this amp has been bench tested.

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post #7 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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If only the XLI3500 was 4ohm bridgeable or any of the XLI series amps for that matter would be awesome !!!

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post #8 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 11:50 AM
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No need for overbuilt old tech amps with the emergence of high wattage class D amps for sub duty. As I stated before the Inuke 6000 will give you by far the most wattage for the least amount of dollars in the below $800 category.

However my subjective opinion is class A/B amps are far superior in the high frequency range with speakers at this point. I highly recommend high wattage class D for sub duty and class A/B for full range speaker duty only.
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post #9 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 12:28 PM
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Out of curiosity. How do you guys handle auto on with these external amps? Or do you just turn them on and off manually?
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post #10 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 12:30 PM
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I use a monster pro 3500 power conditioner. One switch turns on the amps and signal boosters in order to prevent thumps when powering on.Works great.
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post #11 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I just turn mine on & off manually. I only use my subs maybe twice a week anyways.

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post #12 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMW View Post

Out of curiosity. How do you guys handle auto on with these external amps? Or do you just turn them on and off manually?

I use one of these:

PowerSwitch Tail II

it works great. I bought the kit, as I wanted to use a right-angle, 20A plug and I needed a bit longer supply wire.

The internals look to be plenty strong to handle anything that a 120V / 20A circuit can dish out, the relay is rated at 40A / 240V AC and the power and neutral traces on the PCB are 0.20" wide. This will not work on a 240-volt circuit in the US though, because it is single-pole. It only switches the line side, not the neutral.

Assembling the kit was easy, took me less than a half-hour to get the board stuffed, soldered, and cleaned up. I spent nearly as long putting proper ends on the power wires.

I had a bit of a hum issue with my iNuke and my Denon 3312, I've addressed that with a proper RCA-XLR cable.

Anyhow - just my experience, but it works like a champ. It is nice not having to switch the amp on and off manually any more.

Also, for what it is worth, when I needed it, PST's support was excellent too, I had my parts inside of a week.
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post #13 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 11:12 PM
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Whatever . Class D is still inferior to old school amplification, and reliability at lot less. In the long run save your money.


http://www.edn.com/design/consumer/4408451/New-approaches-to-switched-mode-audio-power-amplifiers--Part-1-


Also why you need less than 4 ohms for, I never needed it. Got 20 subwoofers all hooked up to eight ohm loads and can drive them all to full power.
This is not Car audio!!!. You will always get better sound and woofer control with an 8 ohm load, especially on low bass. But like whatever... go blow your cones and enjoy the crappy bass of a two ohm load if you want to.

Further I suggest you do a utube search , google etc, and find out what happens to these cheapo class d pieces of garbage when you have
a power failure!!. They blow up!!! , No need for fogging equipment, your room will be full of smoke! So best hope you don't trip a breaker.

A Good amplifier requires a adequate power supply, It does not matter what the amplifier is capable of if the power supply will not provide the power required. Most amplifiers have under rated power supplies. It is up to you to make sure you get the ones that are
least under rated if at all.
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post #14 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 11:41 PM
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2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Amp OK but Behringer Customer Service Poor, 7 Jan 2013
By Mike Greene "Mike" (UK) - See all my reviews
Amazon Verified Purchase(What is this?)
This review is from: Behringer NU6000DSP Inuke 6000W Power Amplifier with DSP Control (Electronics)
The Amp served its purpose, providing clear sound, little noise and enough output to comfortably drive my large 8Ohm cabs at a price which could not be matched by companies with better reputations - its a decent amp. However, 3 months on, when one morning, the amp simply wouldn't turn on any more (the fan alone operates for a few seconds before cutting out too) I contacted Behringer through their website and got an automated confirmation email back but since then have heard nothing, despite having contacted them again since. In my opinion, Behringer's reputation for being a second tier manufacturer is well deserved. Amazon, by contrast, have been great; they asked me to return the amp and will refund me allowing me to replace the amp without any fuss. Nevertheless, I still can't afford a powerful enough Amp from one of the really good manufacturers so I've replaced it with another iNuke 6000 DSP from Amazon. I trust to luck that the failure was a one off and hope that I will not have to contact Behringer again. I would suggest that you should buy Behringer ONLY if you can't afford anything else; shortcuts on price are inevitably matched by shortcuts in customer service.

A Good amplifier requires a adequate power supply, It does not matter what the amplifier is capable of if the power supply will not provide the power required. Most amplifiers have under rated power supplies. It is up to you to make sure you get the ones that are
least under rated if at all.
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post #15 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 11:42 PM
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Amazon Verified Purchase(What is this?)
This review is from: Behringer NU6000DSP Inuke 6000W Power Amplifier with DSP Control (Electronics)
I have it running two 18 inch subwoofers in my home theatre. I build a 240L sealed box and connected them to this amplifier. Running each driver off a channel at 4ohm. Must say the DSP version is almost mandatory. I could not get the response I wanted in-room without the DSP. It has several modes of operation and even for first timer like me I managed to get around it without too much trouble. Be aware that this does not do what the name suggests. There is a big difference in 'peak power output' and RMS.

Without getting too technical this unit has been bench tested and does about 1.4kw @ 8Ohm or 2kw @ 4Ohm both channels driven.
The fans are rather noisy and not suitable if they going to be in same room as your HT. You will ideally want to give the unit a dedicated 220V 20AMP circuit if you planning on getting 100% capability from the AMP.

Lastly be aware that Behringer have recently discovered a potential problem with the power supply diodes on the iNuke 6k. Check out the forums on SoundForums.net where the CEO/Founder of Behringer gives an explanation. The unit comes with 3 year warranty and they seem to be pro-actively dealing with the situation.

UPDATE - 13 June 2013

Well after about 30 hours of usage my unit died. Both channels were power limited to 1200W during that time. Exact same problem as most people face.
The unit actually died while idling - IE no load. I was luckily in the room and heard a strange pop like sound. I had measured current before so I know
at idle the unit consumes about 50W 238V AC - which is nothing really. My unit has a manufacturer date of 11/11 even though I got it from Amazon in Dec 2012. The unit fails to power up and the fans spin for a few seconds before stopping. No lights no nothing. About to start the process of dealing with Behringer customer support. Will report back on how that process goes.

UPDATE - 7 August 2013

The customer experience was not great and it took several weeks to find a solution. I had the unit repaired and it failed again this weekend after 10 hours of post-repair use. The problem is exactly the same as before and it failed under almost no load. I have 4 other amplifiers - each a different make and so far no problems. Power is stable at 238VAC and I have protection and filters in the main DB board and at plug level. Will take it in for repairs again next week and hope they fix it properly this time round. The saga continues.... just hoping it isn't a trilogy.

UPDATE - 30 August 2013

Got the unit back again. I had the same service engineer look at the unit and turns out a second bank of faulty diodes was too blame. He replaced them
and left the unit running idle for a day. I got it and then did the same. So far so good... it has never managed to remain up for this long in a single session. Hoping this is the last failure for a significant amount of time. We can only hope that they have updated the QC process for these and future amps.
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A Good amplifier requires a adequate power supply, It does not matter what the amplifier is capable of if the power supply will not provide the power required. Most amplifiers have under rated power supplies. It is up to you to make sure you get the ones that are
least under rated if at all.
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post #16 of 35 Old 11-17-2013, 11:50 PM
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What you do is you buy a dual 4 ohm subwoofer like I do. You then take the crown xli 3500 and power it at 8 ohms in bridge mode. Surely you will get a large reliable amount of power into your 8 ohm load. if 1350. watts into four ohms for each channel is not enough 4 ohm power for you. LOL.

A Good amplifier requires a adequate power supply, It does not matter what the amplifier is capable of if the power supply will not provide the power required. Most amplifiers have under rated power supplies. It is up to you to make sure you get the ones that are
least under rated if at all.
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post #17 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 03:51 AM
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post #18 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 04:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like it is down to XLI3500 and peavey ipr2 5000.

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post #19 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 04:26 AM
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The Peavey is the better amp for sub duty out of the two aforementioned amps. I would only suggest the Crown XLI series for full range/speaker duty only. They have great sound quality in my opinion. But their wattage is average at best. Nothing special for the price in terms of watts available for strictly sub duty. Go with the Peavey if you refuse to consider the Inuke 6000.
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post #20 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 04:57 AM
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This a pic of my current amp setup. You see my rack is full of Crown XLI 3500 and 2500 amps. So you can see my advice comes from honesty and not outright bias.
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post #21 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 05:00 AM - Thread Starter
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What are you running your subs with??

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post #22 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 08:34 AM
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Ipr2-7500
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post #23 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnplayerson View Post

Whatever . Class D is still inferior to old school amplification, and reliability at lot less. In the long run save your money.


http://www.edn.com/design/consumer/4408451/New-approaches-to-switched-mode-audio-power-amplifiers--Part-1-


Also why you need less than 4 ohms for, I never needed it. Got 20 subwoofers all hooked up to eight ohm loads and can drive them all to full power.
This is not Car audio!!!. You will always get better sound and woofer control with an 8 ohm load, especially on low bass. But like whatever... go blow your cones and enjoy the crappy bass of a two ohm load if you want to.

Further I suggest you do a utube search , google etc, and find out what happens to these cheapo class d pieces of garbage when you have
a power failure!!. They blow up!!! , No need for fogging equipment, your room will be full of smoke! So best hope you don't trip a breaker.
So an xls1500 wouldn't be a good choice to run a pr of MA RX8s?
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post #24 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Well ended up ordering the peavey IPR2 5000 from zZSOUNDS for $581.00 and had it over night shipping do it will be by 10:30 tomorrow morning. Can't wait!!!

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post #25 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 06:12 PM
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You made a very good choice. Good amount of power for a very affordable price.
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post #26 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 06:46 PM
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You'll be very happy with the Ipr. I got an IPR7500 for $680 as a demo model and love the power it puts out for the cost. What's annoying is that the blue led does not turn off with the power switch. All in all a great amp though.
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post #27 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Great!!! We will find tomorrow!!!!!!! I will probably blackout the LED lights

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post #28 of 35 Old 11-18-2013, 07:37 PM
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I like the piercing blue leds in a dark room. Makes me feel like I'm in a space ship taking off. Lol.
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post #29 of 35 Old 11-19-2013, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

I use one of these:

PowerSwitch Tail II

it works great. I bought the kit, as I wanted to use a right-angle, 20A plug and I needed a bit longer supply wire.

The internals look to be plenty strong to handle anything that a 120V / 20A circuit can dish out, the relay is rated at 40A / 240V AC and the power and neutral traces on the PCB are 0.20" wide. This will not work on a 240-volt circuit in the US though, because it is single-pole. It only switches the line side, not the neutral.

Assembling the kit was easy, took me less than a half-hour to get the board stuffed, soldered, and cleaned up. I spent nearly as long putting proper ends on the power wires.

I had a bit of a hum issue with my iNuke and my Denon 3312, I've addressed that with a proper RCA-XLR cable.

Anyhow - just my experience, but it works like a champ. It is nice not having to switch the amp on and off manually any more.

Also, for what it is worth, when I needed it, PST's support was excellent too, I had my parts inside of a week.

That looks like a very slick solution. Thanks.
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post #30 of 35 Old 11-19-2013, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok got the IPR2 5000. This thing is loud. Any suggestions on a fan mod??? No alternative but to have it under my screen with the rest of my equipment.

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