Cutout information on the PE web site will be updated soon, FYI.
Regarding mounting, there are other alternatives to the 1/4" x 20 socket head screw and T-nut combo. Some use threaded inserts with exterior threads (rosalies), some use hurricane nuts (just as prone to spinning as T-nuts, I've found, though more difficult to back out), and some use barbed threaded inserts. You can probably use several layers of material behind ordinary coarse-thread wood screws and obtain good holding strength, but the most structurally sound way that I can think of is to use the Parts Express premium T-nuts, installed using a dab of adhesive between the flange and workpiece to hold them in place and keep them from backing out, and then haul on them using 1/4"-20 machine screws. The main cause of back-outs and spinning T-nuts is cross-threading or getting crud into the threads, but extra care during installation will ensure proper alignment and threading of the fasteners. When installing the driver, hide the allen wrench from yourself until all screws thread easily by hand into the nuts, then tighten them as much as possible using your fingers before breaking out the wrench and finishing them all off. And don't use cheap T-nuts.
Last edited by DaytonAudioRory; 08-19-2014 at 07:56 AM.