Yes that is about what the inuke 3000 is. That is my mistake. The 6000 is about 1100 watts @8 ohms per channel. So each sub would be getting about 550 watts. Still underpowered IMO.
be careful with sensitivity numbers on subs. low end sensitivity tends to depend more on the cab than the spec and there are even some cases where the lower spec sensitivity sub can have *higher* lowend sensitivity because of the low natural resonance of the driver.
the um18 probably has around 27 or so xmax, so the uxl would appear to have more potential at 34mm xmax. in a ported cab of 10 c.f. tuned around 16hz, 2000 watts takes it to 29mm. I'm not sure that you'd want to run more power than that on the uxl, so it may actually be power limited. burps/bursts and all the rest of it not withstanding.
I would only buy a uxl18 or pricy driver if I was limited to one or two subs in a large room and needed all that power . I thought a year ago two subs was my max . how dumb I was now that I have four.
A UM18-22 can take the full output of a single channel of the iNuke DSP 6000 for typical home theater use - for whatever that's worth - should be at least 1,800 watts. I've driven my iNuke DSP 6000 amps to my UM18-22's to the max quite a few times with no ill effect. My boxes are 21" cubes (sealed). Likewise a single UM18-22 is powered by a bridged iNuke DSP 3000 in my room and works fine.
I used to run two drivers per channel, but impedance issues were troublesome when I turned it up for show off volumes. Now I just run one sub per channel.
FWIW...
Over a year ago I did compression tests between the SI18 vs FTW21 to see what I'd get as results.
Don't forget I own both...
Conclusion:
There's no 3DB difference between the FTW21 and SI18...in fact the SI18's performed extremely well against to the FTW21's.
And this is with almost HALF the power being sent to the SI18's
Graph: Red 2x FTW21's one per corner 2100Watts per sub Blue 2x SI18's one per corner on top of the 21's 1250Watts per sub. Mic starting clipping @117DB
Results: (Forget about the green graph)
Hmm? For a sealed design, 1800W can push the UM18 to 24mm excursion in 4 cuft. Theoretically, you could go a little bigger for better efficiency, but I wouldn't have any regrets about 4 cuft.
Unless I am ill-informed, it is best to always try to use both coils in a dual voice coil sub for greater power handling/heat dispersion??? So if that's the case, if I'm going to put two of these in a cab I'm pretty much limited to a 2 or 8 ohm impedance, total per cab, correct?
What amp are you going to use? You could run both channels of an NU6000 to that one box. Can't bridge that amp, so you'd have to use a four-conductor cable, and wouldn't need to wire the UM18s to each other, just to a four-pole speakon connector.
I have a Crown XTI 4002. Even though I've ran it fine with 1600W'sx2 @ 2 OHMS I would prolly just get a second and run one bridged (2400W's) for each 8 ohm cab.
I considered upping to a 6002 with 3,000 x 2 @ 2 ohms but the above just strikes me as a better idea: certainly an easier load to push and a pretty-much negligible 600 watt difference at these output levels.
Can I fit the UM18-22 into 507mm internal diameter (19.9606") sonotube. I'm assuming that after external the end cap the diameter of the subwoofer cage is less than 422mm which would give me 42.5mm clearance so I could probably have a 4cm wide mdf ring endcaps.
I built mine over the weekend, using the Parts Express flat pack. Absolutely amazing sub for sure. Thing takes quite a bit to get it moving, but once you reach that point it goes nuts. Still working on getting it set up exactly how I want it, but so far I couldn't be happier.
I was just on the Data-Bass Forum and Josh Ricci said that he's received a UM18 to test! Looks like the answers will be forthcoming sometime this Spring.
I currently have a crown XTI 4002 with 2 dayton 18HO in 2 4cft sealed enclosures for HT. Will the 2 UM18s with the same amp and enclosures be better? what will be the differences?
Generic results: A db or two more at the low end and a db or two less at the high end
It is not very likely worth the swap for you. At least wait until Josh Ricci of Databass.com tests the UM18-22. It is in the short queue now. He has already tested the 18HO --- so you'll have some direct apples to apples comparison numbers in the same box, with the same amp, and some high end measuring equipment to make sure the comparison is valid.
I'm considering using the UM18 in a downward firing position in a sealed PE 4cu box.
My concerns:
Potential speaker sag
Vibration of the box so that perhaps a lamp wont sit on top
The 1 inch high rubber feet will not lift the box very high off the floor and maybe that short distance adds pressure resistance to the speaker. (not sure there is any validity to this, but I saw it mentioned on a forum)
You will need more that 1in. rubber feet for a down firing sub. Will this be on carpet? Making a forward firing sub is always an option. None of my Ultimax subs have feet. I prefer building a sub riser to sit them on.
Yeah, you'd want legs that are around 3" tall. It can be as simple as cutting chunks from a dowel or 2x2. Just be sure to firmly screw/bolt them through the baffle.
Never built a down-firing sub, but I have seen a few guys doing end-table subs with a slab of marble or granite as the table top; I'm not sure if the extra weight is necessary, but it sure doesn't hurt.
Longer than that... The SD of the cylinder of the opening between the floor and the surround needs to equal the Sd of the driver or you'll start to horn load the driver. You need to consider xmax too.
Edit: The math works out to 4.75" for the 18" Ultimax.
Thanks for recs and the math Stereodude! Its going to sit on hardwood floor. I wasnt planning on raising it 5 inches off the floor, but I suppose that's still an option. Back to the drawing board to think of the best route.
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