Anarchy Tapped Horn Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 11-29-2013, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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As soon as I preordered one of the new 4Ohm Anarchy drivers I decided to get to work building one of lilmike's tapped horn subs. The flat packs were tempting, but I haven't built a horn before, and it gives me something to do on the weekend, so I went ahead and started building my own. (It was also an excuse for me to go out and grab a new circular saw, which I love).

I've been working on it for a while, so here's everything up to the present day all at once:

I used a table saw for some pieces, and the circular saw for the others. The circular saw worked better, and I ended up having to use the router to trim the little extra bit off of the table saw pieces.


















I'm making a small enclosure for the plate amp I'm using to drive this guy.


I finally stopped being a sucker and buying the wipe-on poly. A 50/50 mixture of poly and mineral spirits nets 2x the finish for the same amount of money.






I had a little mishap in the first round of assembly. I usually trim everything with a flush trim bit, but this time I didn't take into account the side of the mouth of the horn blocking the base, so I had to make a special base that would let me trim off that little bit of overhang (a tip picked up from one of PassingInterest's awesome threads)










I'm going for a natural stained finish, so I stained and poly-ed the inside of the mouth that can be seen. The other pieces are lying around, but not shown.


All that's left is to mount the driver, wire it up, button up the cabinet, and finish the outside of the enclosure.
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post #2 of 22 Old 11-29-2013, 11:32 AM
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Nice build!
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post #3 of 22 Old 11-29-2013, 12:54 PM
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Nice build! How did you clamp the inner pieces that make up the horn path? I have always wondered if people just screw and glue.

A man who has nothing which he is willing to fight for, nothing which he cares more about than he does about his personal safety, is a miserable creature who has no chance of being free.

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post #4 of 22 Old 11-29-2013, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! I just clamped wherever I could and used weight where I couldn't. I did screw a couple pieces but just to other parts of the horn path. There are no exposed screws on the outside of the enclosure.

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post #5 of 22 Old 12-02-2013, 09:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished up the amp enclosure tonight


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post #6 of 22 Old 12-03-2013, 06:11 AM
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[quote name="Scott C."
I had a little mishap in the first round of assembly. I usually trim everything with a flush trim bit, but this time I didn't take into account the side of the mouth of the horn blocking the base, so I had to make a special base that would let me trim off that little bit of overhang (a tip picked up from one of PassingInterest's awesome threads)

[/quote]

Yes! I learned so much from PassingInterest's builds and also used that trimming method for my curved build. That guy is a genius.

Here was my first version of his jig setup:



I love your build so far and I can't wait to see it completed. Nice job!
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post #7 of 22 Old 12-03-2013, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott C. View Post

Finished up the amp enclosure tonight


Which plate amp are you using?
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post #8 of 22 Old 12-03-2013, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Just answered in the other thread, but might as well put it here too.

I'm using this amp for the one I'm building: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa70-70w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-784

With the 4ohm Anarchy this should be just the right amount of power. Just be warned that the crossover on the amp kinda sucks. I could hear voices through my woofer with the crossover set to 40Hz. If you're using the crossover in a receiver that shouldn't be an issue, though.

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post #9 of 22 Old 12-07-2013, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Almost there. I got myself a few more clamps to assist with the final step of assembly. My next challenge is going to be resisting the temptation to play around with it instead of finishing the outside of the cabinet.


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post #10 of 22 Old 12-07-2013, 01:03 PM
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Great looking build. Good job.


If you don't mind, can you please elaborate on the steps you took to achieve the stained finish on the plywood?

Specifically:
- Did you you any pre-stain conditioner?
- Did you brushed or wiped on the stain?
- With the 50/50 mix of poly and mineral spirit, did you brush or wiped it on? How many layers?

I'm new to wood staining and plan on doing it with my next build. I want to make sure I get it right the first time.

Thanks,
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post #11 of 22 Old 12-08-2013, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thucker View Post

Great looking build. Good job.


If you don't mind, can you please elaborate on the steps you took to achieve the stained finish on the plywood?

Specifically:
- Did you you any pre-stain conditioner?
- Did you brushed or wiped on the stain?
- With the 50/50 mix of poly and mineral spirit, did you brush or wiped it on? How many layers?

I'm new to wood staining and plan on doing it with my next build. I want to make sure I get it right the first time.

Thanks,

Thanks!

I didn't use any prestain conditioner, but it's usually recommended. I used some on the MFW-15 subs I built, but I didn't notice that they took the stain much better than other projects I've done, so I skipped it this time. I wiped on both the stain and the poly. When you're wiping with a cloth it's extremely important that you sand well before staining. I went up to 220 grit before staining (don't skip any grits), and did 320 grit between the first few coats of poly. After that I wet-sanded with 400 grit between coats of poly. I didn't really count the number of coats, but they were very light, and I did probably at least 7-10 before I reached a finish that I liked.

Good luck!

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post #12 of 22 Old 12-14-2013, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I finally got around to trimming all the edges and sanding everything down in preparation for finishing.



I had a bit of a problem with the front panel. Unfortunately it wasn't as square with the side panel as I thought it was, so it made the top of the mouth kind of crooked. The only option I had was to sand it flush, and I had to go through a few layers of ply to do that. I'm not totally sure what I'm going to do now, but a few options are to:
  • paint the front black
  • make a grill for the entire front
  • stain it and leave it. (it definitely looks unique)

Anyone have any suggestions or preferences?

On a happier note, I hooked it up to test it out, and this thing is awesome. It's way more than enough for my little desktop setup with a pair of Overnight Sensations. It digs deep and sounds fantastic.

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post #13 of 22 Old 12-14-2013, 01:13 PM
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Fill, sand, and Duratex or grill.

Mike
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post #14 of 22 Old 12-15-2013, 05:58 AM
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If you want to stick with stain you could just veneer the entire front side.

You could try stain to see what it looks like. It will definitely be funky, but maybe that is a good thing!
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post #15 of 22 Old 12-15-2013, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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I did think about veneering the front, but I'd rather not mess with it for this project. I think I am going to stain it and see what it looks like. If I don't like it, I'll make a grill for it.

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post #16 of 22 Old 12-15-2013, 08:25 AM
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It might look cool! Post some pics afterwards. I had something similar but it was not ply. It was an old grandfather clock that I stripped several coats of stain, paint, and who knows what else. There were different wood types and some of the previous stain would not come out of the wood without seriously taking some layers off. I "pre-stained" using a black tinted stain first before staining with a dark walnut and it covered up a lot of the unevenness and turned out pretty good. I did the entire clock in the black and then dabbed on additional coats until somewhat even. If you are going for dark stain with just a hint of wood grain this worked well though it did take a while.

The veneer would not be too hard on that face IMO and would better guarantee a more uniform look.

Either way post up some pics!
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post #17 of 22 Old 12-15-2013, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Kind of a crummy picture, but here it is with some stain. I don't think it looks that bad really, and it took the stain pretty evenly even with the different plys. I'm going to keep it as is, and maybe down the road I'll put a grill on it.


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post #18 of 22 Old 12-15-2013, 12:37 PM
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Yeah, not bad. If you could take one from the front with some light. I actually like the way it breaks up the normal grain. Nice work.
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post #19 of 22 Old 01-12-2014, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Took a while, but I finally got it all finished (clear gloss poly wiped on). I'm happy with how the front looks. It makes it look interesting.



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post #20 of 22 Old 01-12-2014, 09:44 AM
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Scott, a very nice build.  I like that you have no exposed screws on the outside.  The glue will provide joints that are plenty strong enough.  Did you use any silicone or liquid nails on the joints you could reach after glue-up?

 

Regarding the initial cutting of the plywood sheets, did you try a track saw?  I got one for Christmas - for sheet goods, it's way better than my contractor table saw.  And deadly accurate.  I think my subwoofer build is the squarest thing I've made in my life.

 

Anyway, it looks great.  The front of it is not a problem - it's a character design feature!  :)  How does it sound?

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post #21 of 22 Old 01-12-2014, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I didn't use anything extra on the joints after the PL since it expands and seals pretty well. I cut the sheet using a circular saw and a cheap aluminum guide. Not the best out there, but it's plenty straight and I like using it more than my table saw as well.

It sounds fantastic! Unfortunately the built in crossover in the amp that I got isn't very good, but it'll work out fine for my little desktop setup. I just use it for music while I'm on my computer, and it gets plenty low and more than loud enough at such close distance.

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post #22 of 22 Old 01-12-2014, 11:03 AM
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Looks great. Looks like some form of granite on the front! Way to just go with it!
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