DIYSG flat pack 4 cu ft 12" Ultimax sub ported box build, $686 actual - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 51 Old 11-30-2013, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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This thread for my flat pack 4 cu ft 12" Ultimax sub ported box build.

items to post:
  1. My WinISD simulation
  2. Materials bought
  3. Pictures to document the build and ask Q's as they arise

I did not find any other thread dedicated to this DIY Sound group flat pack, so making this one.

It will go in my main floor living room, pano via iPhone 5s:
family%2520room%2520pano.JPG

right next to my couch, to replace the 17 year old 12" Atlantic Technology sub, later when I get a new HDTV I could locate it corner for more bass.
(I'll use that 12" AT sub as 2nd sub for flatter freq response on other side of couch)
family%2520room%2520sub%2520detail.JPG

Here is the flatpack I bought
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/4-ported-sub-flat-pack.html
should look like this, with the ports of course, when finished. The 12" Ultimax driver is next to the 18" SI driver I used in basement HT
.

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post #2 of 51 Old 11-30-2013, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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reserved for My WinISD simulation - which is done but need to make screen shots

Bought (2) of these 3" precision ports via parts express, plus one 12" extension and 2 connector rings ; approx $37 total + shipping
http://www.parts-express.com/brand/precision-sound/285


Using this calculator, http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html
shows I need 22.6" length



Put a HPF on it to protect bottoming out, Nuke 3000 DSP amp and good to go...
(I got the 3000 amp in case I wanted to add a 2nd DIY sub in the family room)
Using this great thread by LTD02 http://www.avsforum.com/t/1461489/how-to-extend-the-high-pass-filter-below-20hz-in-dcx2496

[edit 11/30] I need to read this also
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1490258/calculating-subwoofer-port-length-not-so-simple

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post #3 of 51 Old 11-30-2013, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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reserved for Materials bought and mods made:

Total running cost of project: $686
$200 driver + $140 flat pack + $240 amp + $40 ports +$34 Auto Sensing switch + $12 fan mod + $10 magnetic grill guides + $6 binding post cup +$4 Neutrik NL4FX Speakon connector

-12" ultimax driver; $179.90 + shipping http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512
-flat pack; $120 +$21 shipping http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/4-ported-sub-flat-pack.html
-amp w/eq; iNuke 3000 for $240 http://www.avsforum.com/t/1496782/ep4000-for-279#post_23888588
-auto sensing switch $34 Smart Strip LCG3 Energy Saving Surge Protector with Autoswitching Technology, 10-Outlet
-fan mod; $12 w/free shipping @ Amazon - will do same as here http://www.avsforum.com/t/1359039/behringer-inuke-nu3000-first-impressions-i-need-replacement-fan-suggestions/150#post_23408079
however use this connector suggested by arny, UY Connector Yellow 2-Wire IDC Splice 100 Pack

-precision ports and other
- http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493493/anyone-know-what-material-precision-ports-are-made-from#post_24012002
-stuffing for box; still need to buy
-glue and paint; have leftover from other build; plan is Titebond II for glue, and clear caulk to seal all inside seams
Via Lowes gift cards, have Zinsser Bulls Eye Water Base Interior Primer had them tint it grey, then flat black Valspar Ultra , the Lowe's paint guy said its a very durable paint, from the spec sheet
Quote:
Thick, 1 coat coverage
Stain-resistant and scrubbable


flat pack dry fit
Plan view ............................................................. ISO view
ported%2520sub%2520plan%2520view.JPG . ported%2520sub%2520ISO%2520view.JPG

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post #4 of 51 Old 11-30-2013, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Posts from here will be pictures to document the build and ask Q's as they arise

[edit 11/30 5pm]

saw this post by Jay1 from 5/4/13 at 3:04am eek.gif
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1470856/any-ported-sub-kits-or-flatpacks#post_23277295
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

The model will fit the 12" Ultimax or the 12" Reference Series. They both use the same cut out. I'm sure there are other woofers that will work okay in the box as well.

The PE site says the 12" Ultimax should be put in a 4cuft ported box or a 2 cuft sealed box. That's what I was going by. I have yet to actually test one out, but I will soon.

Not sure what Dayton is thinking with that one, Qts is way to high for a reasonably sized ported box




The 15 has a similar issue, but not as bad as the 12. These woofers are optimized for sealed boxes.

and http://diysubwoofers.org/prt/
Quote:
Almost any driver can be used in a ported enclosure system, however, only drivers which have a Qts value between 0.2 to 0.5 will generally give satisfactory results. If the driver has a Qts above 0.4, try using it in a sealed enclosure or single reflex bandpass system instead.

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post #5 of 51 Old 11-30-2013, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Q1-3;

Q1: This 21" port besides being screwed to the front need some rear/back support, right?
(w/o obstruction of the rear port of course)
What have others done?
ported%2520sub%2520plan%2520view%2520ports.JPG

Q2: stuffing inside ported box. I want to just line the box with stuffing, right?
I seem to remember reading that somewhere here but can't find it just now.
[edit] search found this thread, among lots of them
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430971/whats-best-for-lining-internal-subwoofer-walls,
and http://www.avsforum.com/t/1465552/can-one-stuff-a-subwoofer-that-uses-a-radiator-with-poly-fill
and this with graphs http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79
and this also http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/speaker-stuffing.htm
>Looks like 1 or 2 poly-fill bags from Wal-Mart is the way to go

Q3: The instructions say "use#6 drywall screw to attach", when you tighten them do they really sit flush or proud?
I do not see any countersink in the mold.

Fortunately I have boxes of 1", 1 1/4", 1 5/8", 2 1/2" drywall screws as my general purpose go-to, so will just use 1" screw.
. ported%2520sub%2520ISO%2520view%2520ports.JPG

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post #6 of 51 Old 12-01-2013, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Sunday 12/1 afternoon progress
Ports glued in 2 steps.
Step 1 ...................................................... Step 2
ports%2520in%2520process.JPG . ports%2520built.JPG

Middle braces glued
middle%2520braces%2520iso%2520view.JPG

Detail showing the 2 middle braces are lightly clamped to the bottom, then I clamped the spanner brace "down" by pulling it down via clamping as shown, and then the two middle braces squeezed to the spanner brace
middle%2520braces%2520close%2520iso%2520view.JPG . middle%2520braces%2520close%2520up%2520view.JPG

Hopefully Erich mailed me the rear brace (it got left out of shipment, his first ever for a flat pack) , and I can have that Tuesday, then I'll get steps done each night.
Ideally I'd actually do the rear brace/back first to establish all parts square to each other, but I did not want to wait.....took caution to make sure the middle braces are square.

My goal is sanding this next weekend if possible, and painting after that.

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post #7 of 51 Old 12-06-2013, 04:36 PM
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Progress is looking good! Be sure to keep us updated.
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post #8 of 51 Old 12-07-2013, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Got the back brace from Erich yesterday, this morning's progress included gluing the back brace, the RH side, and back all in same step.

Simple lessons learned to share:
  • Definitely it's helpful to have this project on sawbucks, then straddling on 2 x 4's, so you can clamp the sides down to ensure squareness.
  • Dry fitting and using pencil to mark where to apply glue really helps when multiple part are being assembled same time
Front iso view .............................................................. Plan view
back%2520side%2520iso%2520view.JPG . back%2520side%2520top%2520view.JPG

Rear iso view
back%2520side%2520rear%2520iso%2520view.JPG

Bottom view - just to show how having the project up makes it easier for workability during build, and saves the back instead of bending low
back%2520side%2520bottom%2520view.JPG

After seeing this beautiful sub and it's top, since my sub will be in our family room next to couch/tv area, I'll have to think proper top/finish for it.


Schedule:
All things considered, by Sunday 15th should be fully painted.
I'll bring the box upstairs into the family room after dry and discuss with the wife then just black top or some more refined top.

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post #9 of 51 Old 12-07-2013, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm asking Bill F about lining the walls with insulation in another thread.

Test fitting my ports, I see there is just 1/4" or less of clearance to the bottom panel,I don't expect any touch or vibration issue, but I'm going to put some material directly under both ports just in case.
As stated in the side wall insulation thread, I will maintain port pipe dia clearance to the rear panel, so that specific portion will not be lined.
Port%2520clearance%2520-%2520material%2520top%2520detail.JPG

I really do not like how drywall screws look at all.
They stick "proud" of the flange surface, so I need to find black rounded head screws..what have others used?
I did not see any example in the DIY sticky.
Port%2520screws.JPG

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post #10 of 51 Old 12-07-2013, 11:24 PM
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Looking good, Look forward to the end result
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post #11 of 51 Old 12-08-2013, 07:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Me Too!
By Christmas this will be integrated into the family room
Quote:
Originally Posted by hybridfive View Post

Looking good, Look forward to the end result

Taking a few hours off now to spend family time with my boys - my main hobby wink.gif

http://www.robotevents.com/cranbrook-vex-iq-tournament.html
Cranbrook VEX IQ Tournament Venue: Cranbrook Institute of Science
Address: 39221 Woodward Avenue City: Bloomfield Hills

Sparty will be with us cheering our team on! .... ..... ......Last minute tweaks this morning...
.

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post #12 of 51 Old 12-08-2013, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Came home from the all day robotics competition, checked on progress from this morning 8:00am - 9:00am , it came out ok, LH side and front inner baffle glued on....

Lesson learned;
When you use clamps, you need to put them on in a certain order, to pull it tight in 1 plane, then the next.
At the same time, you don't want to lock a gap in, so it's a learned process to clamp correctly.
I always recommend people to dry clamp the pieces before committing to glue.


Top ................................................................ Front view
sub%2520Top%2520RH%2520front.JPG . sub%2520front%2520view.JPG

The rear was slightly fwd of the back of the LH top corner, I guess the read inner brace possible not perfect,
I used a spreader clamp to set that flush to the LH plate, needed to "set" the inner brace to the lH plate for a firm anchor to spread from.
I drilled a hole for 1 5/8" deck screw, a good idea but I was too close to the top, about 3/4" down. A full 2" down would have ensured the brace did not split like it did.
No biggie, upon glue drying I'm removing that screw, and fill up the hole later with wood filler.
RR%2520RH%2520top%2520corner.JPG

you can see that brace split slightly. Later I'll add to Gorillias DIY FAQ tip on drilling hole sufficiently down from edge to avoid splitting.
Yea, a brad nail would have worked but my air gun was up stairs and the deck screw was readily available.
Screw%2520secure%2520too%2520high.JPG

next up for Monday 12-9:
router rear for binding post cup
glue acoustic material on 4 sides of partially assembled box and top, making sure for top clearance to glue portions.

OT;
my boys took 6th place out of 14 teams, and they are 2nd and 4th graders competing against kids up to 8 grade.

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post #13 of 51 Old 12-13-2013, 03:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Progress update;
routered rear for binding post cup.
Confirm port clearance to lining, also wiring routing as hands will need to get way back once top is on.
cut pieces to fit, glue on back ................................................lining in process
sub%2520lining-1.JPG . sub%2520lining-2.JPG


lining "done", top lining will be done after top is glued on .................. front view
sub%2520lining-3.JPG . sub%2520lining-4.JPG

Next up for this weekend:
-Glue top and front outer baffle
-wood filler at seams if needed
-sand & prep for paint

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post #14 of 51 Old 12-13-2013, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post


I really do not like how drywall screws look at all.

I like these:



http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/black-ox-wax-finish/screw-size-10-1-1/8-hex-head-black-ox-wax-finish/

They have smaller 8s and 6s for tweeters and smaller woofer mounting. Allen wrenches are much safer around woofers and keep me from doing damage when the screwdriver slips.... eek.gif

Nice work those flat packs are top quality.
wvu80 likes this.
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post #15 of 51 Old 12-13-2013, 09:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Nick - perfect thx for posting that!
I'm already using 1/4-20 black hex to mount the driver, so using same head but wood screw to mount the ports will give harmonious look.
>I like the overkill of threaded fastener for driver, just because biggrin.gif

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post #16 of 51 Old 12-14-2013, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I've added up total project cost so far, $652, I'm guessing close to $700 when done considering paint/other, post #3 has details.

Top is now glued on and drying.
Late last night: Marked brace location on top inside, cut lining to fit with clearance to braces/other lining on sides, glue lining on
sub%2520top%2520inside%2520cotton%2520glued.JPG

Early this morning: Apply glue both top and box, spread, flip top and clamp down and square:
sub%2520top%2520glued%2520iso.JPG . sub%2520top%2520glued%2520front.JPG

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post #17 of 51 Old 12-14-2013, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Nick - perfect thx for posting that!
I'm already using 1/4-20 black hex to mount the driver, so using same head but wood screw to mount the ports will give harmonious look.
>I like the overkill of threaded fastener for driver, just because biggrin.gif

Your welcome, hex heads look dead sexxy on speakers....
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post #18 of 51 Old 12-15-2013, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Sunday progress:

Morning before church:
I centered the frt otr baffle to the inner baffle, clamped it @ the ports, dropped in the 12" Ultimax driver, then drilled 1/4 holes thru the 8 holes using the driver as template.
Very careful not to hit the surround foam Took off outer frt baffle, drilled 5/16 holes in the lower front inner baffle for 1/4-20 hurricane nut install, put outer frt baffle back on
0.25%2520drill.JPG . 0.3125%2520drill.JPG
(I usually do NOT use hurricane nut's, but I've had these 2-3 years and figured what the heck have them, they are paid for, why not?)

Hurricane nuts installed, I used gorilla glue to hold them against the inner baffle MDF, each is exactly centered and square, as the outer frt baffle acts as a jig to keep each screw and nut square while being seated and glue dries
hurricane%2520nuts%2520set%2520dry.JPG

Go to VEX Robotics with the 3 kids, 1-6 pm, come home, get them into bed after dinner, then glue the frt outer baffle on.
Getting pretty decent at gluing the 2 piece baffle together w/o wasting too much glue that squirts out as clamps are tightened.
I tighten the clamps in a pattern, and have damp wash cloth ready to wipe glue from the seams as it comes out.
The 8 driver screws also act as clamp here, ensuring good bond inner to outer baffle.
frt%2520otr%2520drying.JPG . frt%2520otr%2520iso%2520drying.JPG

That's it for tonight.
Oh, I should add it's so cold here I did some "minor" sanding of the MDF inner plate to top/bottom plate, and boy I did raise some dust in the basement eek.gif
Definitely I'll put in garage after some very little wood putty is put on seam area and dried for final sanding before paint.

Overall this is a very easy build, joints line up so perfect takes hands to feel the very slight imperfection, and wood filler and sanding will rid that easily.

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post #19 of 51 Old 12-15-2013, 07:21 PM
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Excellent progress so far, you are moving right along. I love the pictures showing progress.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Oh, I should add it's so cold here I did some "minor" sanding of the MDF inner plate to top/bottom plate, and boy I did raise some dust in the basement eek.gif
Definitely I'll put in garage after some very little wood putty is put on seam area and dried for final sanding before paint.

Yea, MDF dust is the worst! Make sure you stay safe and wear a dust mask when sanding it, inside or out.

BTW - those look like kitchen cabinets in the background, are you building this in your kitchen?

Chris

"It hurts to admit when you make mistakes - but when they are big enough, the pain only lasts a second."
--Despair, Inc. "Regret"


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post #20 of 51 Old 12-16-2013, 06:53 PM
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So this DIY sub vs SVS PB12-NSD for $699 vs PSA XV15 for $799? In pairs they are around $100 less each. Already built and shipping is included.

For a person seeking alternatives to those two, what would be the advantage of doing a DIY sub like the one your building above? Thanks!

AVR - Emotiva UMC-200 + UPA-700 / Sources - PS3/Xbox360
Fronts - Klipsch KF-28 / Center - Klipsch RC-62
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Sub1 - SVS PB12-NSD / Sub2 - SVS PB12-NSD
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post #21 of 51 Old 12-17-2013, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by freespace303 View Post

So this DIY sub vs SVS PB12-NSD for $699 vs PSA XV15 for $799? In pairs they are around $100 less each. Already built and shipping is included.

For a person seeking alternatives to those two, what would be the advantage of doing a DIY sub like the one your building above? Thanks!

IMO its hard to say definitively which would sound best. However the components in this build are more robust and higher quality IMO. Also they have greater capability in the right hands after properly integrated with the DSP capability of Berry amp.

Comparing hardware:

The SVS has 400W RMS stated and the Berry runs close to 600W rms per channel. Impossible to know just how much this matters since the efficiency of the SVS system us unknown.

The drivers:
SVS



Ultimax


The SVS states 18Hz +/-3db but actually the FR is pretty flat so they drew their line below the actual FR and are actually quoting the -6db point of the Sub. Nothing new here all commercial sub manufacturers do this. Also remember this is the Post EQ response.

So the SVS is actually -6db @18Hz aneholic after EQ:



The posted model for the Ultimax shows a bit of a high Q bump down low indicating the driver wants a larger box. Real world IDK how much that will show up after some internal damping is applied. Also this is correctable with EQ and the response is pre-EQ. The Ultimax models with a -6db point of ~16-17Hz without any EQ applied.

954acb08_um12.png



After EQ(like the SVS) and draw the line -6db(like the SVS) on a post EQ plot and the model suggests the Ultimax DIY should extend somewhere close to -6db @15Hz or approx 3Hz more extension and 150% of the power of the SVS. However since system sensitivities and power compression characteristics are unknown an absolute winner is hard to call.

Having said all that though, my money would be on and in the Ultimax. wink.gif


AFA the PSA sub. It doesn't look all that good to me. Normally bigger wins in subs. However, the BASH amp looks like a modded off the shelf BASH 500 nothing special. Thats not a lot of power for a 15, actually 100WRMS less than the Behringer..... If you believe the X-max numbers the driver should have output capability if the box and amp allow it to work but thats a small box and puny amount of power to push a 15 2" peak to peak IMO.
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post #22 of 51 Old 12-17-2013, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Besides what Nick posted I'll add this:

1) My 2nd sub would be added at $412, as my dsp amp can power 2 subs, so total cost = $1064 for 2 of these
2) Learning about modeling, planning, and making a ported sub, knowledge that you can use elsewhere
3) When people come over showing them what you built, then their facial expressions as they listen to is ...... priceless !!!

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post #23 of 51 Old 12-17-2013, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

IMO its hard to say definitively which would sound best. However the components in this build are more robust and higher quality IMO. Also they have greater capability in the right hands after properly integrated with the DSP capability of Berry amp.

Comparing hardware:

The SVS has 400W RMS stated and the Berry runs close to 600W rms per channel. Impossible to know just how much this matters since the efficiency of the SVS system us unknown.

The drivers:
SVS



Ultimax


The SVS states 18Hz +/-3db but actually the FR is pretty flat so they drew their line below the actual FR and are actually quoting the -6db point of the Sub. Nothing new here all commercial sub manufacturers do this. Also remember this is the Post EQ response.

So the SVS is actually -6db @18Hz aneholic after EQ:



The posted model for the Ultimax shows a bit of a high Q bump down low indicating the driver wants a larger box. Real world IDK how much that will show up after some internal damping is applied. Also this is correctable with EQ and the response is pre-EQ. The Ultimax models with a -6db point of ~16-17Hz without any EQ applied.

954acb08_um12.png



After EQ(like the SVS) and draw the line -6db(like the SVS) on a post EQ plot and the model suggests the Ultimax DIY should extend somewhere close to -6db @15Hz or approx 3Hz more extension and 150% of the power of the SVS. However since system sensitivities and power compression characteristics are unknown an absolute winner is hard to call.

Having said all that though, my money would be on and in the Ultimax. wink.gif


AFA the PSA sub. It doesn't look all that good to me. Normally bigger wins in subs. However, the BASH amp looks like a modded off the shelf BASH 500 nothing special. Thats not a lot of power for a 15, actually 100WRMS less than the Behringer..... If you believe the X-max numbers the driver should have output capability if the box and amp allow it to work but thats a small box and puny amount of power to push a 15 2" peak to peak IMO.


Wow! Thank you for that insanely detailed reply. So if I dont feel like doing DIY, the SVS is a better option than the slightly more expensive PSA sub, correct?

My room is 17x14x9, and I currently use a Klipsch RW-12D and Infinity HTS-20, and I'm itching to get more low end. My two subs give me a slight taste of that rumble that leaves me begging for more lol.

AVR - Emotiva UMC-200 + UPA-700 / Sources - PS3/Xbox360
Fronts - Klipsch KF-28 / Center - Klipsch RC-62
Sides - Klipsch VS-14 / Rears - Klipsch VS-14
Sub1 - SVS PB12-NSD / Sub2 - SVS PB12-NSD
PRJ - Mitsubishi HC5 / SCN - 120" ES cinewhite
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post #24 of 51 Old 12-17-2013, 05:11 PM
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This thread for my flat pack 4 cu ft 12" Ultimax sub ported box build.

items to post:
  1. My WinISD simulation
  2. Materials bought
  3. Pictures to document the build and ask Q's as they arise

I did not find any other thread dedicated to this DIY Sound group flat pack, so making this one.

It will go in my main floor living room, pano via iPhone 5s:
family%2520room%2520pano.JPG

right next to my couch, to replace the 17 year old 12" Atlantic Technology sub, later when I get a new HDTV I could locate it corner for more bass.
(I'll use that 12" AT sub as 2nd sub for flatter freq response on other side of couch)
family%2520room%2520sub%2520detail.JPG

Here is the flatpack I bought
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/4-ported-sub-flat-pack.html
should look like this, with the ports of course, when finished. The 12" Ultimax driver is next to the 18" SI driver I used in basement HT
.

Nice to see the solid information....................................I have four UM-18's coming and look forward to building them. Have the boxes from diysoundgroup.com for two................have to build the other two myself.

BTW, I was motivated to post after seeing your living room! I absolutely love the log home!!!! I'd love to build one myself and place in Jackson Hole looking out over the Grand Tetons!!!!!!!! Envious...........................wink.gif

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post #25 of 51 Old 12-18-2013, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice to see the solid information....................................I have four UM-18's coming and look forward to building them. Have the boxes from diysoundgroup.com for two................have to build the other two myself.

BTW, I was motivated to post after seeing your living room! I absolutely love the log home!!!! I'd love to build one myself and place in Jackson Hole looking out over the Grand Tetons!!!!!!!! Envious...........................wink.gif

doublewing11 - so your avatar is some sports playbook page??


Looking fwd to seeing your 4 UM-18's build and usage - I thought those out of stock till Feb-2014?? it's incredible the options available to the DIY community.

Thx on the home, back in 2000 when we got married and decided to build our home, we did so much research on custom homes.
Stick frame, timber frame, and log homes. Went to 3 huge trade shows, and really liked the open floor plans of both timber frame and log homes.
Since they are beam/post construction, where the loads are transmitted to the outer shell, the inner walls are truly just partition walls and that allows for flexibility vs interior load bearing walls as in stick frame homes.
Only "downside" is the cost....and the 4-5 years re-staining of the exterior....that allows me to ride one of these biggrin.gif
2011%2520re-stain%2520log%2520home.jpg
Like everything in life, its a tradeoff decision, and a matter of priorities.

Now, Jackson Hole, snow skiing ..... MTB biking .... that would be an awesome place to live.

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post #26 of 51 Old 12-18-2013, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Minor progress today:
Put the box in garage, sanded the seams to remove glue that dried where clamp face was, brought back to basement, apply thin wood filler on seams.
There was the slightest offset felt with finger tip - barely visible but paint would show it, if using Duratex I'd not do this, but with my paint just making sure end product looks good.

LH ISO side ...................................................... RH ISO side
sub%2520filler%2520LH%2520iso.JPG . sub%2520filler%2520RH%2520iso.JPG

Back side need slight more.
sub%2520filler%2520Rear%2520iso.JPG

It looks more in pictures than real life, I've applied the wood filler with wide putty knife so its so thin, then touch with fine sand paper and palm sander.
Painting this weekend biggrin.gif
Maybe Christmas afternoon/eve the sub will be put in the family room, or should I try for Christmas eve to catch Santa with a 20hz blast when he's putting presents under the tree wink.gif

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post #27 of 51 Old 12-18-2013, 08:24 PM
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what popcorn machine is that? I just bought a Paragon and it looks to be the same as yours. Hope it doesn't suck.
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post #28 of 51 Old 12-18-2013, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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what popcorn machine is that? I just bought a Paragon and it looks to be the same as yours. Hope it doesn't suck.

Thrifty Pop-8, it was a HT opening day gift to us by my parents.
Also we use coconut oil, get the bulk popcorn and store it in plastic container.
popcorn%2520Thrifty%2520Pop%25208.JPG

It's served 50+ at our annual outdoor movie nights!
That's it glowing on the deck, and that's a 16' wide x 9' high screen also.

Full 6.1 sound outdoors.

btw, back to subwoofers.....I've in the past lugged out my 17 year old 12" subwoofer, next season I'm looking fwd to treating people to multiple sub boxes, 2 from the basement and this one.....I don't think I'll need to EQ the sub outdoors for peaks - as there should not be any reflections to mess up the bass wave, just let them rip!

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post #29 of 51 Old 12-19-2013, 04:02 PM
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doublewing11 - so your avatar is some sports playbook page??


Looking fwd to seeing your 4 UM-18's build and usage - I thought those out of stock till Feb-2014?? it's incredible the options available to the DIY community.

Thx on the home, back in 2000 when we got married and decided to build our home, we did so much research on custom homes.
Stick frame, timber frame, and log homes. Went to 3 huge trade shows, and really liked the open floor plans of both timber frame and log homes.
Since they are beam/post construction, where the loads are transmitted to the outer shell, the inner walls are truly just partition walls and that allows for flexibility vs interior load bearing walls as in stick frame homes.
Only "downside" is the cost....and the 4-5 years re-staining of the exterior....that allows me to ride one of these biggrin.gif
2011%2520re-stain%2520log%2520home.jpg
Like everything in life, its a tradeoff decision, and a matter of priorities.

Now, Jackson Hole, snow skiing ..... MTB biking .... that would be an awesome place to live.

Avatar is a play right out of my playbook.....................36 Pitch, which is an off-tackle play similar to counter trey the Redskins used in the 80's. Formation is a hybrid between Delaware Wing-T and I formation. I call it Fly I which some call Doublewing............ie. my Forum name. Football has been a HUGE part of my life........ie. college and my 25+ years of coaching! wink.gif

Yes, I have to wait until Feb to receive drivers...............but am looking for alternatives ie. UXL-18 or similar. I pre-ordered 4 UM-18's, but can still cancel order if I need to.

BTW, do you plan to use screws in sub build? Just using glue scares me................figured I'd use Kreg jig along with glue just like I used on building columns in my theater.

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post #30 of 51 Old 12-19-2013, 05:53 PM
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AFA alternatives, Somebody had 4 SI18HT D4s in the classifieds for $200 each shipped, thats a good deal imo.

Good drivers just dont get crazy with the power on em....
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