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post #1 of 26 Old 12-02-2013, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Im getting ready to build my floorstanding speaker cabinets. I was wondering if I should use woodscrews and glue to assemble, or just glue.
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post #2 of 26 Old 12-02-2013, 03:52 PM
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If you have enough clamps then glue only. Glue and screws are nice if you want to put it all together in one go but then you have to fill the holes before painting.


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post #3 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 09:33 AM
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I always use screws and hate myself when its filling time.......


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post #4 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 11:23 AM
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you could use a brad nailer which would make for easy filling. Or you could use a kreg jig on everything except for the baffle. Then just glue and weigh down the baffle.
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post #5 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 12:29 PM
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+1

I strongly recommend using the Kreg jig. They are affordable and cut assembly time in half.

Brads can work well, but can be a mixed bag when working with plywood as the layers guide the nails and can make them shoot out the sides of the panels.

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post #6 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 02:14 PM
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The glue is ONLY as good as the surface or layer it is glued to. It does not "penetrate" very far.

By using fasteners-you have a much more secure bond deeper into the wood.

I HIGHLY suggest both.

Think of it this way-you can use the best glue into world to hold an object to a painted wall. But when the paint falls off-the object falls.

If you have screws going through the wall-it will hold much better.

HOWEVER you need the glue to hold the pieces of wood together so they don't buzz.

Screws are better than nails-since the pull the pull the wood together.

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post #7 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank yall for the replys. I plan on painting the speakers gloss white and I really need them to be smooth. Maybe just a few screws in stratigic locations. Im using 3/4 MDF and if you prep the screw holes correctly with a drill/countersink bit, then its pretty clean. I have been told not to use screws is the reason I brought it up. I guess its a matter of debate (like every other part of building speakers).
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post #8 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver View Post

The glue is ONLY as good as the surface or layer it is glued to. It does not "penetrate" very far.

By using fasteners-you have a much more secure bond deeper into the wood.

I HIGHLY suggest both.

Think of it this way-you can use the best glue into world to hold an object to a painted wall. But when the paint falls off-the object falls.

If you have screws going through the wall-it will hold much better.

HOWEVER you need the glue to hold the pieces of wood together so they don't buzz.

Screws are better than nails-since the pull the pull the wood together.


I concur..............................screws are the only way to go. Even when building my home, I told the contractor no nails!! The guy almost flipped out! Cost me more.................but who cares, (Mike) Holmes on Homes would be proud of me! biggrin.gif

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post #9 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike47 View Post

Thank yall for the replys. I plan on painting the speakers gloss white and I really need them to be smooth. Maybe just a few screws in stratigic locations. Im using 3/4 MDF and if you prep the screw holes correctly with a drill/countersink bit, then its pretty clean. I have been told not to use screws is the reason I brought it up. I guess its a matter of debate (like every other part of building speakers).

I always tell myself no screws this time around and within 5 minutes I’m doing the screw, (maybe clamps) and glue. With veneer it’s no biggie, but when you’re painting, getting things right can be a bear. I’m sure I need to learn more regarding the prep process in painting or material to top the screws when countersunk since I opt for veneer so much though. Spackle dosen't seem to cut it no matter how much I sand with what grit.

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post #10 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 05:25 PM
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I use a biscuit joiner.
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post #11 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMW View Post

I use a biscuit joiner.

That works well too and have gone that route as well. A little more work and more expensive tools that then the Kreg Jig, but very good.

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post #12 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FMW View Post

I use a biscuit joiner.
+1 and glue, no screws ever in speaker cabinets.

Mike
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post #13 of 26 Old 12-03-2013, 08:25 PM
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I like using pocket screws where it is difficult to get good clamp pressure, The center braces in sub cabinets are a good example. Without using a slightly curved caul it is tough to get good clamp pressure in the center of a 24" wide panel. Using pocket screws in that center brace helps insure that there will be a good glue joint in the center. I have a biscuit jointer and that gives some additional strength to the joint but doesn't help pull panels and braces together.
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post #14 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 05:38 AM
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Which Kreg Jig are you guys referring to?
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post #15 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 05:42 AM
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I am only aware of one. They are typically around $100 but can run more if they include things like clamps, extra screws, plugs, etc.

http://www.kregtool.com/Pocket-Hole-Jigs-Prodlist.html

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post #16 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

I am only aware of one. They are typically around $100 but can run more if they include things like clamps, extra screws, plugs, etc.

http://www.kregtool.com/Pocket-Hole-Jigs-Prodlist.html

I have one of the more expensive ones, but the Kreg Mini jig is under $20.
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post #17 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by djarchow View Post

I have one of the more expensive ones, but the Kreg Mini jig is under $20.

I never even considered the pocket version. It seemed like more of a pain for saving the few dollars.

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post #18 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

I never even considered the pocket version. It seemed like more of a pain for saving the few dollars.

The nice thing about the mini is that you have more flexability with the location and angle for the pocket screw hole compared to the larger ones. If all you are doing is standard rail and stile pocket holes, then the larger ones are great. The smaller ones are nice, for example, to add a pocket screw to the inside of an already glued up cabinet. I have never had to do that though as all my joints are perfect:)
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post #19 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 08:15 AM
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Ahh, that makes sense. Thanks for the info.

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post #20 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 08:44 AM
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Brad nails and glue here. much quicker than alternatives. Long panels I'll use a biscuit joiner.


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post #21 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Brad nails and glue here. much quicker than alternatives. Long panels I'll use a biscuit joiner.

Using this method do you...

Apply glue...
Clamp....
Shoot some brads...
Remove clamps....
Repeat?

That way you don't have to wait for the glue to set up?

My dual sealed LMS 5400 Ultra build

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post #22 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 09:24 AM
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correct


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post #23 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 12:25 PM
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You can also use trim head screws it's makes a nice small hole to have to fill. Not as small as brad nails but half of the size of a regular #8 screw.
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post #24 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jstslamd View Post

You can also use trim head screws it's makes a nice small hole to have to fill. Not as small as brad nails but half of the size of a regular #8 screw.

Good idea!

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post #25 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mike47 View Post

Thank yall for the replys. I plan on painting the speakers gloss white and I really need them to be smooth. Maybe just a few screws in stratigic locations. Im using 3/4 MDF and if you prep the screw holes correctly with a drill/countersink bit, then its pretty clean. I have been told not to use screws is the reason I brought it up. I guess its a matter of debate (like every other part of building speakers).

The 'not use screws' may have been in reference to your material choice rather than speaker building. MDF is fine if you pre-drill and use the proper type of screw, but if you don't... mad.gif

Just a word of caution: If you plan to round over the corners of the cabinet, make sure the screw heads are deep enough to avoid hitting them. A screw head will do a fair amount of damage to a round-over bit.

Chris

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--Despair, Inc. "Regret"


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post #26 of 26 Old 12-04-2013, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Which Kreg Jig are you guys referring to?

I have been using a Kreg R3 for years, and love it.

Chris

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--Despair, Inc. "Regret"


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