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post #1 of 23 Old 12-09-2013, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I have read a lot of posts and have got so much info I might have got a little confused. I have a 10" inch sub and a plate amplifiers from parts express and want to build a good enclosure but don't want to get too extreme. If anyone could point me in the right direction on a DIY for a 10' inch sub, and what port tube length to use an so on, Thanks smile.gif
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post #2 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 05:55 AM
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The cart before the horse you have put. First you choose a cabinet design that meets your response/output/size requirements, then you buy the correct driver to use in it.

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post #3 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 06:11 AM
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Hey jr welcome to DIY. Could you let us know what driver and amp you have?

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post #4 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jrjr6565 View Post

I have read a lot of posts and have got so much info I might have got a little confused. I have a 10" inch sub and a plate amplifiers from parts express and want to build a good enclosure but don't want to get too extreme. If anyone could point me in the right direction on a DIY for a 10' inch sub, and what port tube length to use an so on, Thanks smile.gif

@Bill Fitzmaurice is totally correct. If you can exchange your driver then you should follow his advice and start by modeling an enclosure, with specific performance goals in mind. You'll get plenty of good advice on this forum.

If you need a hand figuring out what those performance goals are, you'll get help with that, too.

 

If you still want to reverse-engineer an enclosure based on the driver you have, post the make and model so you can find out what it is capable of in a ported alignment.


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post #5 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Im not really wanting to put a lot of money into to this project. Don't get me wrong, I do love good sounding audio. I spend a lot of time in my car and just put 5k in the audio in it which would have been around 8 or 9k had I not bought and installed it all myself. I use to do car audio for a living and still do electronics for a living. But I have an onkyo receiver, and klipsch 5.1 speakers, the speakers came as a set. The highs on these are great to me and I like how they sound but the subwoofer just doesn't sound as good as the rest at high voulumes. I am going to upgrade it all when we move but not sure when that will be so I'm waiting to spend the big money later and trying to do a low budget fix on this one problem. I already had a Rockford Fosgate Sub RFP3810, and some premium 3/4 MDF, and so I bought the Yung SD200 from Parts Express with some floor spikes even though I have carpet in my living room. I have built these before but just wanted to see if there was a way to build a better one for what I have? I'm not even sure if ported is the best way to go, that's also part of the reason I am asking you all. It will set in the corner. And I really appreciate you all responding to my post so quickly smile.gif
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post #6 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 05:38 PM
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I thought you bought some Dayton driver and amp or something like that. I would suggest you send your amp back and check this thread out over in ID. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1364182/list-of-budget-subwoofers-300-and-less/750 Those guys live and breath budget SW’s and can recommend the best in your price range.

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post #7 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot for the reply. So I cant use the one I have? I have the manufacturers recommended specs on the ported or sealed box with the recommended tube length for the sub box. I have heard of Dayton but my preference is Rockford Fosgate if they will work fine for home audio. I have used their stuff over the years and seen their stuff in competition and they are really hard to blow and sound great in my opinion. I just put this T2D212 in my car along with some of their best components. I know the speaker I am using is not top notch but still want to use what I have. Should I just use the manufacturers specs for this then or is their a better enclosure for this 10 inch sub to be used for my home theater sub?
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post #8 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 11:17 PM
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Yeah I saw that. The tune would come in at around 35-40 I would guesstimate. Although fine for a car (some would say) not good for HT. You could do much better. Keep a higher tune you’re ok but at 7mm you’re pretty limited with a 10” not to mention other parameters. Maybe someone will come along and sim it for you and see what's the best you can do with it like imagic suggested. What size room are you putting it in, and is it open or closed?

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post #9 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 11:23 PM
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one way to find out is to model it using thiele/small parameters and something like winisd. otherwise, it may be mostly guessing how it will perform.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #10 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

one way to find out is to model it using thiele/small parameters and something like winisd. otherwise, it may be mostly guessing how it will perform.

+1 Been hoping you would stop by LTD.

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post #11 of 23 Old 12-10-2013, 11:43 PM
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the thiele/small parameters are only half given in the manual, so i had to guess at re and sd.

anyway, here is about what you are looking at:

5 cubic feet net internal volume, tuned to about 23hz, with two 4" diameter ports that are 20" long (a little correction factor there) gets about as much as you can get out of it without getting too big. if you aim them straight into the back of the cab with exactly 4" spacing to the rear wall, decrease the length to 18" or so.

shape can be anything you want.

i modeled at 100 watts because your plate amp will deliver 200, but that is into 4 ohms and you have an 8 ohm driver (no further comment on that).



let's hear it for the little guy.

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post #12 of 23 Old 12-11-2013, 12:17 AM
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let's hear it for the little guy.




Dang right! Maybe it's time to start cuttin wood?..

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post #13 of 23 Old 12-11-2013, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot for all the replies. LTD, I measured my space available for the enclosure and at 24 inches tall, 15 inch width, 14 inch diameter gives me about 2.2 cubic feet of air space with the tube port length about 14 inches. The way my apartment is set up "half double" I really can't move the living room around given the door locations and stairs, plus the shape of the furniture. I'll take some pictures and measurements of the living room and get back to you all.
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post #14 of 23 Old 12-11-2013, 10:07 AM
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by comparing the graphs, it can be seen how that affects results.

with a single 4" x 14" long port in 2.2 cubic feet, that gives a tuning of 30hz.

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post #15 of 23 Old 12-13-2013, 04:57 PM
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rfp3810 in 2.98 cu ft with one 4" round port x 17" long gives a tuning around 24hz.

since it is a plate amp, I put a 20hz 2nd order high pass filter on it. in room, you will get a little more extension and spl than this. looks good. no problem with power, excursion, or resonances in this one.


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post #16 of 23 Old 12-13-2013, 09:29 PM - Thread Starter
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The end of the port will be about 1 inch away from the rear of the enclosure, that okay? I'm glad everything is better on this one. Will be starting tomorrow after I clear the snow lol. I was thinking of using some of this rubberized under coating for cars to finish the outside of the enclosure. It's flat black and will lay down flat and fill in any small imperfections like it would be if I was to sand the outside. It also has some sound deadening characteristics. What is your thoughts on that?
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post #17 of 23 Old 12-14-2013, 09:55 PM
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that's too tight. the rule of thumb is one port width, in your case 4", of clearance from the port to the back wall. otherwise, tuning begins to drop and the port function begins to go down. 3" would be pretty tight, but probably still works.

if you want to experiment, a triangle shaped piece of wood could be put on the rear wall to divert the air flow to the sides.

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post #18 of 23 Old 12-15-2013, 03:56 AM
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Since you can go taller have you considered venting out of the top? or you could experiment as LTD suggests.

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post #19 of 23 Old 12-15-2013, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I shortened the tube 3" to give it the 4 inches. Was a 17" tube without the flared ends. Now it is a 13" tube
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post #20 of 23 Old 12-16-2013, 06:00 AM
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^^^ I see. Tell us, have you chosen a name for your sub yet? smile.gif

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post #21 of 23 Old 12-16-2013, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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no but since you bring it up, I guess I'll call it Shaggy. It's my first home subwoofer build since 1996. It's coming along okay so far. I went and bought a router and a roundover bit but I think I'm going to take it bake because I don't think I'm going to round off the edges so much that I need a router. Haven't really made up my mind yet
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post #22 of 23 Old 12-16-2013, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Shaggy

Oh! coffee all over screen, that reminds me of something. smile.gif Looking forward to your pics though.

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post #23 of 23 Old 12-22-2013, 10:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I am pleased with the cosmetics of this enclosure though stained wood will be my next choice. I really appreciate all the help from everyone on here. I have some pic on my phone and some pix on my digital camera. The ones you see where all taken on my phone so some of the steps are missing. Incase anyone wants to know, the finish on the outside is bed liner for trucks. I like the finish and its also really tough so I decided to put it on this box to make it quick and easy. You will see in the pix that I done at a friends paint booth and used a heat lamp to dry it faster. I have all Klipsch speakers that came as a package, now the sub is a different brand. I'm really upset though because this enclose doesn't sound at all like I was hoping for. I have adjusted and adjusted some more and it just doesn't sound the way I wanted it too. The really low tones are there but the higher tones and punch are non existent. I am so upset with this project because I have put all the free time I had into it frown.gif





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