Downsides of DIY in-wall and in-ceiling speakers - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 12-11-2013, 11:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Can someone educate me about the downsides of this?

I am renovating our basement and have complete access to a small (3.5 m x 3.5 m) room for home theater. I already have a D-ILA projector and 5.2 speakers. I am considering setting up the room to be able to implement Atmos so am looking at wiring in for 2 pairs of overhead speakers, 2 pairs along the sides, and 1 pair of rears (in addition to the fronts).

Due to WAF the only way I could do this is to build them into the walls and ceilings, and due to the small room size I would be wanting to get away with using the least depth possible. My understanding is in-wall or in-ceiling speakers can set up lots of vibrations etc. and are better if built into enclosures but quite honestly I don't know much more about the ins and outs.

My main hobby is woodworking, so I can build anything needed, and while I will be constrained on the depth of enclosures I can obviously run them as high as I want along the walls or as long as I want along the ceiling to bump up the volume of the enclosure.

Would appreciate general comments on any major disadvantages as well as drivers and sources. I'd like to be crossing these to the 2 subs in the room around 80.

Thanks for comments,

Dave M

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post #2 of 4 Old 12-12-2013, 04:07 AM
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I would recommend that you avoid traditional big box speakers that are "in-wall" models as most of them are sub par, at least in my experience. I have heard in-wall speakers from the likes of Def Tech, Klipsch, B&W, and several others. To me, they all sounded pretty bad.

You could build some of the Seos-15's or Seos-12's, or Seos-Tux 1099, or what ever Seos speakers you want. Then recess them into a baffle wall, or build then into the sides and rear walls, in addition to the front walls. I believe that most of the Seos designs will work well recessed in a wall, as will the 4Pi too. If you go with the Seos based speakers built flush into the wall, you will likely loose the effects of baffle step, and gain in the basic acoustical properties of the speakers. The downsides to doing your front, Left, Center, and Right mains sitting flush in a baffle wall would be that you loose the ability to toe them in, although that may prove to be a fairly insignificant factor as there are so many other advantages to flush mounting the speakers in a baffle wall, as well as the inherent benefits of controlled direct ivory speakers in general!
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post #3 of 4 Old 12-12-2013, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Marty,

Actually my fronts would all stay as they are, exposed. It is only the 10 new speakers (2 pairs overhead, 2 pairs sides, 1 pair rears) that I would be building into the walls/ceiling.

What would be the advice here for the minimum enclosure depth that I could get away with if I want to be able to cross to my subs at 80? I am hoping to be able to build the enclosures as shallow as possible as that is the one dimension where I am encroaching on my room space which is already on the small side.

Thanks,

Dave

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post #4 of 4 Old 12-12-2013, 10:53 AM
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You could build the speakers into the corners. If they're waveguide speakers, the optimum 45 degree toe in would be easy to implement. Just straddle corners with the baffle. My SEOS18/ AE TD15m/ BA750 units will be built into the corners. Corner placement can complement waveguide speakers. Since the enclosures will be of prism configuration there would be two fewer parallel sides for the back wave to bounce off thereby reducing inner reflections. There's also plenty of room for the drivers.
It would also be easy and cheap to beef up the inner corner walls with mass (multiple layers of sheetrock using green glue, lead sheets or whatever) for a very dead and stiff cabinet. Fill the remaining space in the corners, above the box, with bass traps.
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