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post #511 of 640 Old 06-13-2014, 11:21 PM
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not sure if the kappalite has the demodulating rings or not. that helps reduce some forms of distortion.


if the 18sounds driver is too much, the next best option may be the one we were talking about in the seos maximus thread--the b&c 15fw76 (the 12fw76 is being used with the 18" bottom, the 15" was going to be used with the 21"). the 15fw76 is $210 from p.e., has good sensitivity, demodulating rings, impedance looks pretty good, frequency response doesn't suggest any bad breakups, very low q...should be quite nice.


http://www.bcspeakers.com/products/l...er/15-0/15fw76

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post #512 of 640 Old 06-13-2014, 11:22 PM
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New graphs?
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post #513 of 640 Old 06-13-2014, 11:30 PM
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"How do you think the XT1464 would compare to the SEOS-15?"


it is a 60x40 horn, so narrower pattern. the xt1464 appears to be one of the nicest "off the shelf" horns.

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post #514 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
not sure if the kappalite has the demodulating rings or not. that helps reduce some forms of distortion.


if the 18sounds driver is too much, the next best option may be the one we were talking about in the seos maximus thread--the b&c 15fw76 (the 12fw76 is being used with the 18" bottom, the 15" was going to be used with the 21"). the 15fw76 is $210 from p.e., has good sensitivity, demodulating rings, impedance looks pretty good, frequency response doesn't suggest any bad breakups, very low q...should be quite nice.


http://www.bcspeakers.com/products/l...er/15-0/15fw76

How would a setup using the Seos-15 waveguides attached to DNA-360's over either the 12FW76 & the same 18" B&C versus the same Seos-15 + DNA-360 over a B&C 15FW76 & the same B&C 21" subwoofer?

I just sent the money to Erich for some Seos-15's, DNA-360's and a single Seos-18 that will be used as the center. I can't wait to get these babies built! I just need to figure out a way to do the crossover.

I have a local guy who says that he can do it, he is an older man who owned an electronics repair shop for 20 years back in the 1980's, although, I have my doubts that he knows how to design an xover in a modern day setup.

If anyone out there wants to help with the crossover for my speakers. Please let me know!

P.S. I can't decide if i want to do the Seos-15/DNA-360 over the B&C 12FW76 + the B&C 18" sub, or, possibly a Seos-15/DNA-360 over a duel JBL-2226 setup in a 2-way. Decisions Decisions!
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post #515 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 06:32 AM
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Actually, he would have only owned the store for 10 years in the 80's, not two decades. Hehe.
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post #516 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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New graphs?


I really haven't had a moment to test them yet with REW, I'm hoping to get a chance tomorrow.
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post #517 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 10:23 AM
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We want to know
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post #518 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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I bought a new UMIK-1 from Cross-Spectrum because I wasn't 100% confident in the one I got from miniDSP and the CS is calibrated down to 5hz. But with me being a bit of a noob when it comes to computers I can't get the calibration files from the USB stick to load


I hate feeling incompetent, I can usually fumble my way threw things but I'm stumped with this one.
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post #519 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
"How do you think the XT1464 would compare to the SEOS-15?"


it is a 60x40 horn, so narrower pattern. the xt1464 appears to be one of the nicest "off the shelf" horns.


I'm also considering building something with 12" drivers so that its a little narrower to work with the space that I have. If I did that I would look at using the XR1464 waveguides. Thanks again for pointing out the ND1460A CD to me John, after doing a little reading last night I really think I'll consider trying it out rather then going with a BMS 4550.
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post #520 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 02:45 PM
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Three ND 1460a will be in the classifieds very soon.
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post #521 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Three ND 1460a will be in the classifieds very soon.

Are they yours? If they are you might not even need to put them in the classifieds, send me a PM.
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post #522 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I've been able to answer one question about my subs. So starting with one sub on and then turning a second, then the third and finally the fourth; I measured the output using some pink noise, having all four gives me 11dB more output over a single. So for example one up and running at 85dB, all four up and running was 96dB.
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post #523 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 09:07 PM
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"Well I've been able to answer one question about my subs. So starting with one sub on and then turning a second, then the third and finally the fourth; I measured the output using some pink noise, having all four gives me 11dB more output over a single. So for example one up and running at 85dB, all four up and running was 96dB."


that's fantastic.

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post #524 of 640 Old 06-14-2014, 11:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
"Well I've been able to answer one question about my subs. So starting with one sub on and then turning a second, then the third and finally the fourth; I measured the output using some pink noise, having all four gives me 11dB more output over a single. So for example one up and running at 85dB, all four up and running was 96dB."


that's fantastic.


I also tried to see if I could get any rocking motion from the stacks of subs John, and so far after one round of heavy bass tracks no rocking to speak of. So far they seem very rock solid, I'm very happy with the results.


I'll try to get some more measurements and graphs up soon.
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post #525 of 640 Old 06-15-2014, 01:49 PM
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"I also tried to see if I could get any rocking motion from the stacks of subs John, and so far after one round of heavy bass tracks no rocking to speak of. So far they seem very rock solid, I'm very happy with the results."


that is great news as it was a lingering potential concern.


thanks for taking the time to perform the test and report the results.

woohoo! :-)

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post #526 of 640 Old 06-15-2014, 01:55 PM
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Yea! Near perfect summing to gain that additional 11db's with all 4 vs. the one. What more could you ask for! Nice!
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post #527 of 640 Old 07-05-2014, 10:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Well at this point I'd say that it's pretty safe to say that I didn't really set my iNuke amps up correctly. BassThatHz was able to stop by today along with WarrenBerry and chalugadp and we redid the settings on my amps. And holly cow did it make a difference. He also helped me figure out REW better and getting it setup properly to take good room measurements so hopefully I can get some new measurement graphs up soon.
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post #528 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
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So here was two measurements that we took yesterday while BassThatHz was over. The red graph is the screwy way that I had the amps setup and the blue graph is basically with zero boosting applied and just having a high pass filter in place to protect the drivers. Basically you can see that I was bottlenecking the subs and robbing them of output.
Oh there's also zero smoothing applied to the graphs.





I have a null at around 65-75hz and 85hz that I need to try to correct but it looks like I could basically be flat 13hz.
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post #529 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 10:41 AM
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That's a huge difference, must have been like hearing your subs for the first time.
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post #530 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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In all honestly they were scary before, now they are down right frightening. We thought about doing a max SPL sweep but there was some serious concern about damaging my house a little.
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post #531 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 10:49 AM
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Great before and after comparison, curious though how you were bottle necking before, was it something in particular you were doing? Something I should watch out for when setting up with the inuke dsp settings? That is a big difference, what did you tweak to make those differences?
Robert

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post #532 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 12:05 PM
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I believe it was the workaround shelf setting to go lower then 20 hz with the inuke. He had it with a -7db hs12 setting and we changed it to a -7db ls12 setting.
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post #533 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
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I believe it was the workaround shelf setting to go lower then 20 hz with the inuke. He had it with a -7db hs12 setting and we changed it to a -7db ls12 setting.
I have so much to learn on these things, I have to look over your help thread.

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post #534 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 01:06 PM
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I have so much to learn on these things, I have to look over your help thread.
It was more Shawn then me figuring it out. He knows so much more then me. Sometimes it just helps to have a couple of other eyes and ears there.

What I did know without the graph was Joe wasn't getting the output he should. Before the changes my two minimartys (when i had them)had more output then he was getting. Once we had them dialed in his output was savage.

I would never need more then two of his monsters. But I'm not a basshound. You know I wanted to hear his jtrs more then the sub's. Does that make me a wuss
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post #535 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 01:43 PM
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It was more Shawn then me figuring it out. He knows so much more then me. Sometimes it just helps to have a couple of other eyes and ears there.

What I did know without the graph was Joe wasn't getting the output he should. Before the changes my two minimartys (when i had them)had more output then he was getting. Once we had them dialed in his output was savage.

I would never need more then two of his monsters. But I'm not a basshound. You know I wanted to hear his jtrs more then the sub's. Does that make me a wuss
I am hoping my 2 will be somewhat close to 2 of his. Good by orb 8 hello thunder. Well thats what i have been telling my sons I am building..lol

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post #536 of 640 Old 07-06-2014, 01:53 PM
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They will. Same driver, similar build. His room is 1900 cuft, yours is ?
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post #537 of 640 Old 07-29-2014, 11:39 PM
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if you put one sub in blue, that mode gets excited.
if you put one sub in red, that mode gets excited.
if you put one sub in red AND one sub in blue, that mode gets cancelled.
if you put the sub(s) where there is no red or blue, that mode does not get excited.


this is for one dimension. same effect is happening in all three dimensions. so worst case would be to have all subs in one corner of the room.
one good scenario is to have subs placed at 1/4 distances from the walls and if possible floor/ceiling too.


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post #538 of 640 Old 07-30-2014, 02:44 AM
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if you put one sub in blue, that mode gets excited.
if you put one sub in red, that mode gets excited.
if you put one sub in red AND one sub in blue, that mode gets cancelled.
if you put the sub(s) where there is no red or blue, that mode does not get excited.


this is for one dimension. same effect is happening in all three dimensions. so worst case would be to have all subs in one corner of the room.
one good scenario is to have subs placed at 1/4 distances from the walls and if possible floor/ceiling too.


I have been tinkering with the room mode calculator for a while now, but, I still don't understand how to interpruit the results. My room is 14ft wide, by 17ft deep by 8ft tall. Any chance you could model mine and help me figure out the most ide sub placement?

(Sorry for the hijack! PM me If you want!)
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post #539 of 640 Old 07-30-2014, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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No that's fine Marty, hopefully LTD02 will post the answer instead of sending a PM so that everyone can read the answer to your question too.
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post #540 of 640 Old 07-30-2014, 01:20 PM
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your front stage looks so awesome, one of the coolest I've seen. When I have the space, that sub set-up is my goal.
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