The Monkey_Man dual Marty box build with Mach-5 UXL-18 subwoofers - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Over the past few years I have been slowly building a dedicated theater room. I'm getting to the point where I'm wrapping up trim and starting to paint it. I still need to paint the front wall, pick a color for the room and order carpet. My room will be packed with 8 power recliners, which have been ordered. I currently have an older Klipsch Reference system (RS-3, RC-3, and 4 RS-52ii) and the original SVS PC -Ultra (12") cyclinder sub.

My plan is to ditch the SVS sub for dual Marty boxes outfitted with Mach-5 UXL-18's powered by iNuke6000DSP amp. Many thanks to LDT02, Blah450, for getting me started. My room is about 14.5'x7.8'x18'.

See pics below, just some quick iPhone shots during construction to get an idea of my space. I’ll have a lot of questions when I get to the amp set up but I’ll save that for later (mixing pro-audio with consumer grade HT gear)








Panoramic shot with iPhone
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:55 PM
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Looks like the beginning of something epic.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:26 PM
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Monkey Man, your room looks great! and has very similar dimensions to my room. It's funny I was also going to do a sealed sub build too until talking with LTD02. I've now change my mind to a ported design also after John's suggestion. My build will be a little bigger then yours, but I'm also hiding my behind a false wall/AT screen setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1506201/unnamed-sub-build

I was also considering using the SI 18's, one suggestion I would make is to consider sending a little more upfront on the drivers. Take a look at the UXL-18's, I think they're a better more robust driver and would better handle the power of the inuke 6000 amp, which is also the same amp I'm going to use to power mine.
It would take three SI 18's to equal the output of two UXL-18's too.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:53 PM
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As someone who has one Marty sub , two should do you just fine , unless your like.carp and run subs 10dbs hot:D
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Monkey Man, your room looks great! and has very similar dimensions to my room. It's funny I was also going to do a sealed sub build too until talking with LTD02. I've now change my mind to a ported design also after John's suggestion. My build will be a little bigger then yours, but I'm also hiding my behind a false wall/AT screen setup.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1506201/unnamed-sub-build

I was also considering using the SI 18's, one suggestion I would make is to consider sending a little more upfront on the drivers. Take a look at the UXL-18's, I think they're a better more robust driver and would better handle the power of the inuke 6000 amp, which is also the same amp I'm going to use to power mine.
It would take three SI 18's to equal the output of two UXL-18's too.


Nice! Thanks for the sugestion, I'll take a look at that sub. I have a few major errors with my build, one being the terrible idea not to make provisions to build a false wall/AT setup. My stage is deep enough, but the soffit wasn't made to accomdate the false wall. I was too concerned about the front row being too close to the screen.

One issue I didn't mention is with the large sub box it really limits me from increasing my screen size down the road. Right now i'm leaning towards big sound over a larger screen.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

As someone who has one Marty sub , two should do you just fine , unless your like.carp and run subs 10dbs hot:D

So what does that suggest you're trying to say about me? rolleyes.giftongue.giftongue.gifbiggrin.gif
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:11 PM
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Your joining the over the top basshead impress your neighbours club tongue.gif:p:p
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Old 12-19-2013, 11:27 PM
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that's a nice room that you are putting together.

a quick couple points. here is the max spl in 2pi space of the marty sub vs. sealed for the si 18ht driver (Dayton will be down a db +/-, but more or less identical).



if you aren't shooting for single digits, the ported can offer a lot more spl across a portion of the bass region. each person has to decide if that is a tradeoff worth making. for most folks with one or two subs, it is almost certainly better to go ported if you have the space. if you have 8 or more subs in a home sized room, there may be sufficient spl even without porting to do what you want to do (well, 'not in all cases).

the martysub is just one expression of a largish lowish tuned sub that was designed to be relatively easy to build and extract the most performance from the combination of the low cost drivers (si 18ht/rss460ho) and the inuke amps. there isn't any particularly special about the dimensions, so similar performance can be had by changing dimensions to fit the space. if something a little shorter would be better, that's no problem.

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Old 12-19-2013, 11:29 PM
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btw, in your room, pressure vessel gain will kick in starting at about 24hz +/-, so below that you will get a lot of "free bass".

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Old 12-20-2013, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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LTD02, you're such an asset to this forum, seriously... one of the best! Do you think the standard Marty box stood up will be stable or do you think it would be better to point the port up and mount the woofer front and lower? Seems with a box that large it should be stable enough to stand with the woofer up. I guess I could always strap to the wall for safety. The graph looks pretty telling and powerful smile.gif
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Old 12-20-2013, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

LTD02, you're such an asset to this forum, seriously... one of the best! smile.gif

This is true. smile.gif
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My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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Old 12-20-2013, 09:53 PM
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thanks guys.

"Do you think the standard Marty box stood up will be stable or do you think it would be better to point the port up and mount the woofer front and lower?"

it will be stable. it's got good weight. :-)

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Old 12-20-2013, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

This is true. smile.gif

+1
Quote:
it will be stable. it's got good weight. :-)

oh yeah wink.gif

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Old 12-21-2013, 03:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Excellent! I have been considering Jbrown15's recommendation to go with the Mach 5 UXL-18. I searched around and only found a few reviews. Some complaining about voice coil rubbing/noise. Does anyone here have any opinions of the UXL-18? I like the specs but I'm a tad hesitant at this point given the cost.
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Old 12-21-2013, 03:43 AM
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n8dogg has quite a bit of experience with them and reports good things. you might want to ping him.

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Old 12-21-2013, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

Excellent! I have been considering Jbrown15's recommendation to go with the Mach 5 UXL-18. I searched around and only found a few reviews. Some complaining about voice coil rubbing/noise. Does anyone here have any opinions of the UXL-18? I like the specs but I'm a tad hesitant at this point given the cost.

The UXL-18 is an excellent driver. I personally have, and like, the Dayton HO18's, which are also excellent drivers. The UXL-18 is better than the Dayton HO18 and SI18, but at a substantially greater cost. If I had to pick between two HO18's versus one UXL-18, I would choose the HO18's because the benefits of more than one subs far out weigh the increase of performance with regards to the UXL-18.
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Old 12-21-2013, 07:17 AM
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That’s a very good point Marty and although I agree with you, in the end I tend to go with the better driver up to a certain point because of adjustability with other applications and oh I suppose just because. Both are good options 1 or 2.. I know you’re not saying they’re not though.

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Old 12-21-2013, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey_Man View Post

LTD02, you're such an asset to this forum, seriously... one of the best!

So true! Once again, kudos to LTD for his efforts and enthusiasm!smile.gif

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Old 01-18-2015, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I have been meaning to update this thread for a bit now. I bought 2 UXL’s from the group buy last year. I also picked up an iNuke6000 DSP to power both of the UXL’s.

(Any pics that look out of square is just the lens on the iPhone)





I decided to build 2 full size Marty’s. In this thread you will see that I used 2 different methods of bracing, so I wanted to illustrate this. On to the pics.

Here is the first enclosure. I went with the standard full size Marty with the bracing suggested in the original Marty thread. I went with handy panels and they were a pain in the butt. In my case not two panels were the same size. Some panels differed up to 3/4”. Most were about 1/8” off in size, which is huge in speaker building. I would recommend that you buy full size panels and have them cut at least by the big box store if you can't at home. They will still be more accurate than the handy panels.

The second enclosure will have a different method of bracing suggested to me by a forum member. I guess the second method is often used in folded horn cabinets.

Build #1 bracing method front in the original Marty build thread













I crawled in the box to install the pocket screws



I’ll router both enclosures together at the end.

Okay here is the second method of bracing




I installed these vertical bracing after attaching the top plate so could crawl inside and install the upper pocket screws. If I installed the vertical bracing first I would be unable crawl inside to attach the upper pocket screws after the top lid is attached





At this point I crawled inside and attached the upper pocket screws and the vertical bracing. I don’t have a pic of the vertical bracing installed.





router mod, this helped me a lot on the outer lip
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Duratex and dropped in the sub.



I ended pulling extra 12 gauge wire to double up on the wire since the amp is located in a different room.


Moving the beasts in place.





The second bracing method was thought to be easier to implement, but it really wasn't and it was thought to be stronger but lets face it, both methods are way overkill. I'll post some questions and REW results shortly. The pro-amp took me a bit and I think I understand it partly now but I still have questions.

Impressions, the subs are outrageous, tons of output almost too much. Even tuned at reference volume, they are only pumping at 75% power. The the UXL's laugh at the iNuke. They can handle way more power. I'm not sure I have the amp set up right yet.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:59 AM
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Yeah man, I remember this build from awhile back, excellent job my friend

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Old 01-18-2015, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is my first REW run. I just picked up a UMIK-1 and used 1/3 smoothing. Yup lots of low end power, almost too low 80hz crossover



I played with the iNuke DSP and pulled some low end out and put it up a litter higher, 60hz crossover. I was getting a little too much upper lever base and the subs weren't blending well with the mains. I hope with some advice to get the subs calibrated properly. I only watch movies on this rig and I like a lot of low end punch with some attempt at balancing the subs with the rest of the system.



It's been since 2005 since I used REW so I'm a bit rusty with it. Is the UMIK-1 a C weighted SPL meter or is it a mic or Z weighted SPL meter? I did load in the calibration file from the website assigned to my UMIK-1.

I know I ran REW a tad loud but the master was set at 15db under reference.

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Old 02-06-2015, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Instead up the subs up-firing, I'm considering making them down-firing. Any pros and or cons to this? This is an attempt not to have the ceiling as the first reflection point. I'm also wondering if in the downward firing position if I would pick up a few more db's or perceived bass. My system is 100% HT only.
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Old Yesterday, 12:35 AM
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your measured response looks pretty much perfect. is there something that you are trying to fix?

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Old Yesterday, 03:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
your measured response looks pretty much perfect. is there something that you are trying to fix?
That's a great question. I agree the response looks a lot better then I thought given the amount of "felt bass" for size of the subs & enclosures. Maybe it's the lower distortion or how incredibly low the Marty are tuned. Let me be clear, the bass is deep and sonically sounds excellent. I was just wondering in my case if the brunt of the power is being directed at the ceiling and not at the listener? I know I finally have the iNuke levels right. I even accidentally shut the iNuke down during Master and Commander due to the opening scene. The UXL's never broke a sweat. I wonder if I need a bigger amp? I don't know, over all I'm pleased, I just want to make sure I'm getting 100% from the Marty's.

My father who picked up my old SVS Ultra was surprised with how clean and deep the Marty's sounded. However, my dad made it sound like the SVS had more physical punch which I sorta agree with. I never ran the SVS in my new theater room. Maybe since my room is well built and I have my subs on a floating riser with 2600 pounds of sand in it, the sound isolation is something new to me. Meaning the mechanicals vibrations are being contained and distortion is low.

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Old Yesterday, 06:02 AM
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Nice thread, sir!

Oustanding theater!!

I do not see the 6000 amp being a limiting factor here...particularly in light of your graphed response.

It might be worth your time grabbing that SVS Ultra and running it in the new theater setting to see what it does compared to your new set-up??
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Old Yesterday, 07:00 AM
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My money is on the lower distortion is tricking you. There's a big difference between 2 18s and 1 of anything less, but I know you realize that.
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Old Yesterday, 07:00 AM
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What do your graph looks like without 1/3 smoothing? This might help us to see what you are talking about.

You have a really nice theater and nice speakers/subs! Great job!
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Old Yesterday, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the compliments on the room everyone. It was a lot of fun and time to build. I got all my design ideas here at the AVS. Right now its out of commission due to a issue I'm having with my JVC RS-4910. It's in for repair. I'm also in agreement this may be due to a lack of distortion. I believe Marty experienced this when he built his cabs.

Here is my graph with the smoothing removed. I do have an issue at 75 hz, corner loading issue? Nothing I can do about sub placement.
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Old Yesterday, 11:56 AM
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What smoothing is applied to that graph? Looks good, and if there is no smoothing, I will crap my pants lol. Just cross your mains over at 70hz or take measurements with your mains and you may not even have a null at 75hz. Just got a little bit of tweaking to do, but you are in the home stretch now.
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