80" Speaker Towers / kerfed out of one MDF sheet - 9 spkr setup! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 03:42 AM - Thread Starter
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First things, first.

I am new (not a professional) to this, just cant see my self spending $3k in speaker so i am off to building my own.
So please feel free to advice me on my journey.

I have only seen these speaker online and they look gorgeous but only to find out they are around 4ft tall and cost about $3k. Wow.


I picture them at least taller







So I am off to make my own and to make them about 7ft out of one sheet of 3/4 MDF by using the kerf method.
Here is a few picture of the project in day one and two I will post more daily.
Can you tell I am on vacation?
Special thanks to my son who is currently home from college this week.

Boy this is lot of work...enjoy!

Recap edit here a shortcut to a YouTube video of the full project.














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Last edited by 332rick; 06-26-2014 at 01:41 AM.
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post #2 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 03:55 AM
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What drivers are you using, and who did the xover design?
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post #3 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 04:21 AM
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Wow, thoose are big. Do you have 6 different woofer/mid sizes and the tweeter?
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post #4 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 04:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is where things get crazy.

Please Remember this is a budget DIY, but with big ideas.

Thanks to part-express, the drivers are as follow (9 speakers per tower)

GRS woofers
1x)12"
2x)10"
2x) 8"
2x) 6.5"
3" HiFi
Vifa tweeter soft dome

X-over is a 3 way dayton audio. (Will update one model and specs if needed)

Not sure if it make sense the plan is to have two all-in-one towers.

Later I can upgrade drivers quality as budget allows. Step by step.

Thanks for asking
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post #5 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 04:39 AM
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Uhm.. you have a 3way crossover on a 6way speaker...
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post #6 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 04:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Good point !

I am still not clear on how I can make this work efficiently
Maybe i can make them use multi ch inputs and two xovers per tower


Any recommendation?
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post #7 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 05:35 AM
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Well, it looks like the cabinet is going to be good, but to be blunt... the best would be to just ditch the speakers you already got and buy a kit. By throwing alot of speakers in a box and using some generic crossovers you will get sound. But its in the crossover the magic happens and that takes alot of time an knowledge to put togheter. And every speaker needs a crossover designed to that speaker.

My recomandation would be to find a smaller kit and incorperate that into the cabinet you are building. Ofc blocking off some of the cabinet so the volume will be right for that speaker. Then you can use the rest of the volume for subs, like one in the top and one in the bottom.
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post #8 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 05:54 AM
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Just throwing something out there, im guessing you are on a budget and i havent given this much thought but...

Something like this in the middle:
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/waveguide-speaker-kits/karma10-kit.html
I dont think there is any bafflestep in the crossover on theese, so the wider baffle shouldnt be much of a problem

And 4 of theese (1 in the top and one in the bottom on each speaker)
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-ds315-8-12-designer-series-woofer-speaker--295-434
driven by 1:
http://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu1000-inuke-1000-watt-power-amplifier--248-6700

Ofc, the woofers don have alot of xmax and would give up before the karma-10, but they are fairly cheap and easy to power.

If this is an option, the choice of speaker kit and woofers should be discussed and changed accordingly, im just throwing this out to start somewhere.
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post #9 of 156 Old 12-24-2013, 06:31 AM
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I applaud your DIY spirit and you look to have excellent woodworking skills.

But it looks like you are starting from scratch from the sound perspective.

Of course eXa is correct that the key is in the crossover, assuming you start with decent drivers.

If you post some objectives the experts (I am just an intermediate builder) here can likely help you, but expect a big learning curve and decisions and compromises along the way.
Let them know the following and then proceed from there:
-Is this for 2 channel music or movies.
-How big is the room.
-Do you want soft laid back music or do you like to play loud.
-Are you going to use subs with them.

There are more but this should get you started.

Hope this helps,
Moto
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post #10 of 156 Old 12-31-2013, 02:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Thanks to everyones input and support.

It is keeping me realistic.

One thing is for sure,I am going to need lots power to play these. I will look at the Behringer line up and decide, they seem to be in my range.
Thank you for the input and links


I here are a few picts of my progress.
Have not worked on it as i like too.
Kids are home for the holidays and house needed some repairs to.


And I had one of my kerf sheet crack on me while bending it. ( that set me back a day or two)
Seems to me it was also due to cold dry cold weather?

Wood felt very stiff and started to see a bow in other lumber in the garage.

Oh well I had to fix it with what i had and the show must go on.

It is more work than I expected, I thought I would be done before the year was over.

But I will keep at on my spare time.

Thanks for reading, please enjoy the pics.

























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post #11 of 156 Old 12-31-2013, 08:12 AM
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Cabinet building looks solid, but I have some major concerns about driver implementation. Are you planning on having internal compartments for each driver set? In other words one internal compartment for the 12" that is closed off from the two 10", that are closed off from the two 8", so on and so forth? If not, your internal bracing needs cutouts to allow air to move freely. I can also tell you right now that once you get to the midrange and tweeter sections, those drivers need a fraction of the internal volume the other drivers need. My last big concern, how high up are your tweeters going to be? You want the tweeter mounted near ear level, not simply at the top of the stack of drivers. That is why with the design you are trying to copy, the cabinets are only 4 ft tall but the tweeter is at the top.

I have to echo the others who have posted. You will get sound from these speakers. It might be able to play loud if given enough power, but you are really scarifying sound quality by using a generic crossover, building a cabinet based on looks and desired size, and a stack of drivers. I am scared the results will sour your opinion of DIY speakers.
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post #12 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 02:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Deewan for your input. Trust me I am learning alot. Task is more complex than i thought.

The original plan is to have all drivers sectioned off by size and yes the i am working on the upper min range which i know wont need that large volume.
I have thought about having cut out for free movement but not sure if it would be better or worst?

And I do understand now the tweeter position level now.
But for this set up it is too late i could redo the front face and experiment it further.

Also the x-over topic is confusing, i know i am using cheap ones the is clear. I will plan a better set up design on my next project including better drivers.

I just wanted to see if i could do it.
Trust me I am wishing for the best just did not want to scrap it at this piont.

Lets call this practice and learning the basics of DIY 101.


Here is where i am at now

I cut out the holes on a double 3/4 MDF facing & started to work on the trim rings.

I like how they cam out. They a little time each but looks nice.
















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post #13 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 02:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Next on the list of things to do are;

Continue to sand the out filler gaps
Cut out next tower facing
Finish the trim rings (2x sets)
Sand and paint the front face with rubber-dip
Once finish sanding shell it will covered with veneer and stain and spray clear

Wiring will follow soon after that

Last will making plans for a front cover grill. Something thin using magnets


Still lots to do up ahead.


For now I am taking a 2 week break.



Thanks for reading and I love this forum.
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post #14 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 08:01 AM
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wow! such beautiful woodwork! i hope you have some heavy duty power amplifiers to thw towers! :D 

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post #15 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 08:17 AM
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Very interesting cabinets. How did you plan the kerf spacing?

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #16 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 08:53 AM
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Wow, VERY impressive woodworking! Unfortunately I'm afraid it will be all for naught with the current driver arrangement and crossover selection though frown.gif There's a great FAQ someone wrote up just for situations like this:

https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy-faqs-provendesigns

I hope you don't get discouraged, with your woodworking skills you could have some world class speakers smile.gif





More links if you're interested. Speaker design is a rabbit hole that goes very very (very!) deep lol
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?219617-The-Speaker-Building-Bible
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post #17 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 10:18 AM
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Very nice cabinet. Please read the link that lennon_68 provided: https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy-faqs-provendesigns

After that, if you still intend to use the drivers and crossover that you have, your best bet will likely be to connect the tweeter to the HF (high frequency) output of your crossover, connect the 3" to the MF (mid frequency) output of the crossover, connect one 6.5" to the LF output of the crossover. Short (connect a wire between) the terminals of the second 6.5", this will be a passive radiator in your design. All the rest of the speakers (the 12, two 10s, and two 8s) you will hook together (probably parallel the 8s, parallel the 10s, then connect the two pairs and the 12 in series) and use as a subwoofer. You will need to have a divider in your cabinet so that nothing below the 6.5s shares airspace with the top drivers.

There are other options that involve using fewer of the drivers or crossover that you already have. I or others will no doubt be happy to expand upon those options if you are interested. As you've no doubt noticed, everyone is encouraging you toward one of those other options. The above is just a way to try and make something work with what you have. Let us know what your thoughts are if you want further guidance.
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post #18 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 07:36 PM
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Never seen that link before, but it was excellent. Bookmarked it smile.gif
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post #19 of 156 Old 01-03-2014, 07:55 PM
 
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Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Beautiful woodworking!
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post #20 of 156 Old 01-04-2014, 03:01 AM - Thread Starter
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BLLDO thank you

The kerf was just trial and error on a piece of sample board.
I also watched a few videos on Youtube.

As you can see I kept it very tight cuts about 1/4" cuts for the first 5 inches from the center to both directions then finished it off with 1/2" spacing.
A total of 86 cuts per torwer. (/sheet) took me alone time i recomend having a helper.
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post #21 of 156 Old 01-05-2014, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 332rick View Post

Here is where things get crazy.

Please Remember this is a budget DIY, but with big ideas.

X-over is a 3 way dayton audio. (Will update one model and specs if needed)

One last MAJOR concern I have for you. I think I know the crossover you plan on using. With the amount of power you are going to need to power each tower, you are going to FRY that crossover. I HIGHLY suggest trying to find a proven design as your first build. If you look hard enough I am sure there are some designed that you could still use with your cabinets with some adjustments. Your woodworking is great and I think there are several of us very concerned about the pending disaster you may encounter if you continue down your current path.

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post #22 of 156 Old 01-05-2014, 11:31 PM
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I dig the kerf bent cabinets, I took that approach shoehorning an 8w7 in my single cab truck.

I also like how you did the dividers between compartments, but are they correct airspace?

 

The trim rings are trick!

If you can get all your driver/crossover issues worked out, those would look sweet wrapped in some exotic woodgrain!

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post #23 of 156 Old 01-06-2014, 01:34 PM
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Being that those are such large speakers, you better stick with several high powered neodymium magnets to attach the grilles!

Are you going to make the grilles from MDF? Or do multiple section grilles?

 

If you're going to veneer them, you could flush the magnet with the MDF baffle, and veneer straight on top of that, completely hiding the magnets.

 

Are the trim rings just going to be press-fit, or do you have an attach method to keep them in place?

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post #24 of 156 Old 01-06-2014, 02:11 PM
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Nice woodworking. Please do post acoustic measurements of the speaker when done. Like the others have said, this design is going to have many many issues acoustically but to each their own.
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post #25 of 156 Old 01-07-2014, 03:36 AM - Thread Starter
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The trims are pretty much a tight fit. They are not coming off just by playing them

I am currently atteding CES this week which is why I have not posted any new picutres.
I will be walking the show and gathering more ideas for this and my next project.

Thanks to all for you input.
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post #26 of 156 Old 01-12-2014, 01:40 PM
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Just wondering, why do you correlate the height of a speaker with it's cost?

The TRUTH in your theater is determined by your EYES and EARS. Not how many specifications you can rattle off. Not in how much money your last piece of equipment cost. Not in your post count. The longer I'm here the better I understand why you all have to ask your wife for permission on what you're allowed to place in YOUR house.
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post #27 of 156 Old 01-13-2014, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 332rick View Post

Thanks to all for you input.

Odd thought for you. Skip the passive crossover and buy two UPA-500'd from emotiva and go with active crossovers. This way you can do some amazing things in SW while eliminating nearly every headache from a passive crossover and that many unique drivers. It will set you back ~$1100 per speaker, but It will be amazing. smile.gif Or put each pair of "woofers' in series/parallel and one for the tweeter. Probably get pretty damn close there too at half the cost!

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #28 of 156 Old 01-19-2014, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffHurt View Post

Just wondering, why do you correlate the height of a speaker with it's cost?

If they're really tall, with lots of drivers, they will cost a lot. ;)

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post #29 of 156 Old 01-20-2014, 10:11 PM
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I'd buy 5 of these: http://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu1000dsp-inuke-1000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6702
That would give you 5 actively powered outputs per side.

The problem is that you've recessed all the woofers, so the mid and bass is gonna be delayed slightly compared to the HF, so you might have to add a delay to the tweeters... or actually... because the tweeters will be so
far above your head (unless you listen at 20ft away and standing up) that the HF will STILL likely arrive lastly/out-of-phase... oddly enough; so you might have to add delays to everything else, rather.


In any case it could be a head ache.
I sure hope you have measurement equipment otherwise you are just gonna end of getting a wall of random sound, which probably won't sound all that bad actually.( Like 80% sound-quality...maybe.)
Companies that build such speakers have large engineering teams and each person has decades of hands-on audio experience (99% sound-quality)... or at least, you'd hope so... wink.gif

In any case, I think you might find yourself noticing that this speaker sounds loud below 3khz i.e lots of bass and mids, and muffled sounds above that.

-my 2 cents
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post #30 of 156 Old 01-20-2014, 10:38 PM
 
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Let us know how they sound! They are sure good-looking.
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