UXL-18 Subwoofer driver Group Buy (is now closed out/over/done/fini) !!!! - Page 28 - AVS Forum
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post #811 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 03:52 PM
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It always helps to input four drivers when applying 8000 watts. Boy do I impress myself at times wink.gif I want suppa!

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post #812 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post


This is what BBpro is giving me for the UXL in a 4 cubes with 2000 watts.

Seems to me, both software programs are close enough that we can both say a 10 hz filter is needed to protect drivers.

 

Looks good.................................

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post #813 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

It always helps to input four drivers when applying 8000 watts. Boy do I impress myself at times wink.gif I want suppa!

 

 

Could it be dementia? You certainly are close to retirement age.......................

 

Soon we'll all be feeding you with a Gerber spoon..............mushed bananas on menu!  :p

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post #814 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 04:54 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Seems to me, both software programs are close enough that we can both say a 10 hz filter is needed to protect drivers.

Looks good.................................

na you won't need a high pass filter on sealed. There's no content that is going to be reference level at that low frequency, and going 1 mm past xmax won't matter even if there was.
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post #815 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post


Could it be dementia? You certainly are close to retirement age.......................

Soon we'll all be feeding you with a Gerber spoon..............mushed bananas on menu!  tongue.gif
Lol
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post #816 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Seems to me, both software programs are close enough that we can both say a 10 hz filter is needed to protect drivers.

Looks good.................................

I would say that depends on the slope of the HPF. For a shallower slope, 15hz wouldn't make a huge difference audibly, but would provide a little extra protection.
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Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

na you won't need a high pass filter on sealed. There's no content that is going to be reference level at that low frequency, and going 1 mm past xmax won't matter even if there was.

Depends on if he decides to add EQ to his subs to EQ them flat. Then it's possibly to overdrive the subs with the right content. If there's no EQ added to get them flat down to 10 or whatever, then he's probably good without them.
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post #817 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 07:13 PM
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Just stuck in a second order Butterworth.............no excursion issues.

 

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post #818 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 07:21 PM
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Just stuck in a second order Butterworth.............no excursion issues.

WOW! now that's impressive thinking there douby, nice job.

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post #819 of 1388 Old 03-03-2014, 08:03 PM
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WOW! now that's impressive thinking there douby, nice job.

 

Thanks my winisd guru!  :D

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post #820 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 05:11 AM
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What's the output look like after adding the filter?
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post #821 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 05:22 AM
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Looks like my first of two will be here tomorrow.
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post #822 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 09:18 AM
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Would these be good screws to use?

http://www.parts-express.com/8-x-1-1-2-deep-thread-pan-screws-head-black-100-pcs--081-430

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post #823 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiderm0n View Post

Would these be good screws to use?

http://www.parts-express.com/8-x-1-1-2-deep-thread-pan-screws-head-black-100-pcs--081-430

I don't see why not, as long as your baffle is double thick. Personally I like to use the machine screws with the inserts, but they ain't for everybody.
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post #824 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiderm0n View Post

Would these be good screws to use?

http://www.parts-express.com/8-x-1-1-2-deep-thread-pan-screws-head-black-100-pcs--081-430

A old trick if you want extra measure for a heavy driver is to glue 3/4 ply blocks or a ring on the inside of the baffle for extra material to screw into.. that being that, like fuzz says it isn't the only approach.
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post #825 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 11:07 AM
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I have a 90lb subwoofer hanging down and didn't want to have any issues so I bought some steel bars off of Amazon, cut it with a reciprocating saw, and then drilled and tapped the holes. If you are interested, I can let you know what I ordered and did in more detail. But I'll tell you this, unlike regular screws or tee nuts, I don't have to worry about the subwoofer coming loose or having trouble getting the screws out.



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post #826 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 11:40 AM
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Thanks guys. I have Erich's 4cu ft sealed flatpack, which has a double thick 1.5" front baffle, so I guess I'm good to go.

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post #827 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 12:09 PM
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I used a 4.0 cu ft flat pack from parts express thats meant for the Dayton HO 18, note for anyone else going this route, either cut the baffle hole 1/4 inch bigger if you want to keep the rubber outer ring on or about 1/8inch if you want to easily drop it in without it, cause I had to actually hammer around the outer rim to get the thing in all the way around and used drywall screws to fully push the subwoofer down against the baffle. I hope to God there is never a reason I have to remove this sub from this enclosure cause it'll suck!
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post #828 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiderm0n View Post

Thanks guys. I have Erich's 4cu ft sealed flatpack, which has a double thick 1.5" front baffle, so I guess I'm good to go.

Sure hope you received the SI-18FP.......if not, you'll have issues.
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post #829 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Sure hope you received the SI-18FP.......if not, you'll have issues.


Woofer Cut Out - Stereo Integrity 18" woofer biggrin.gif.

Yes, I was a bit worried about this....

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post #830 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Spider...those screws above will work fine. I have only advised going with pocket-hole screws similar to those because the head is a little wider,
almost as if a washer is integrated into the head of the screw. You can find pocket hole screws at any Lowes or Home Repo.

Have fun...and let us know how it turns out...biggrin.gif
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post #831 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Thanks guys. I have Erich's 4cu ft sealed flatpack, which has a double thick 1.5" front baffle, so I guess I'm good to go.

Yeah I thought that myself once when I didn't add the backing and my 50 pound mae-x took a dive in a move, your driver is lighter though. I also have always used the full thread screws.

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post #832 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:19 PM
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Blah, those sound even better. So I don't need a Kreg pocket jig to use pocket hole screws? PIus I'd rather get screws from my local Lowes anyway!

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post #833 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

Yeah I thought that myself once when I didn't add the backing and my 50 pound mae-x took a dive in a move, your driver is lighter though. I also have always used the full thread screws.

eek.gif

I thought the UXL-18 was 65 pounds?

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post #834 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiderm0n View Post

Woofer Cut Out - Stereo Integrity 18" woofer biggrin.gif.

Yes, I was a bit worried about this....

You are good to go..........

If you have any wood working skills at all..... Use these for a better look and grip...,


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post #835 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:34 PM
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I thought the UXL-18 was 65 pounds?

Uhh! you have the UXL, yes extra measure is definitely warranted if you go the reg wood screw method. From looking at it closely though, I would go another option since your screw heads show if no mounting ring is used.

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post #836 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Spiderm0n View Post

eek.gif

I thought the UXL-18 was 65 pounds?

I know data-bass.com shows it as 65lbs, but I seem to recall someone saying that they are actually 74lbs. I could be wrong of course smile.gif

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post #837 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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jbrown....from Mark...shipping weight is 72lbs (32kg)....unless he recently changed his packaging. I believe driver weight remains 65#.
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post #838 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:45 PM
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Okay, maybe that's what I was reading. Thanks smile.gif

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post #839 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiderm0n View Post

Blah, those sound even better. So I don't need a Kreg pocket jig to use pocket hole screws? PIus I'd rather get screws from my local Lowes anyway!

No Kreg kit needed if you are just using the screws as regular screws to fasten driver to baffle. I would recommend pre-drilling the baffle for the screws...but don't overdo it with the pilot hole width. Just use a regular bit. You can even do it with driver in place IF you have a steady enough hand (that sounds a bit weird).

In post 834 above, Double is recommending a nice alternative. Gotta make sure those inserts line up just right with the driver holes. It may be advisable to glue those inserts in when inserted (that sounds a little weird, too).

The inserts he pictured can also be found at Lowes.

If you really want to use the socket-head cap bolts he pictured, and want to make the mount ridiculous...put the insert in to the baffle from the interior of the box...then pull-out will not be be an issue (that sounded even weirder)...biggrin.gif
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post #840 of 1388 Old 03-04-2014, 04:04 PM
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In post 834 above, Double is recommending a nice alternative. Gotta make sure those inserts line up just right with the driver holes. It may be advisable to glue those inserts in when inserted (that sounds a little weird).

Yeah way back when I bought a kit that they didn't have lined up right and it turned out to be a real pain in the arss! They also said nothing about gluing which would have been nice if lined up correctly. rolleyes.gif

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