UXL-18 Subwoofer driver Group Buy (is now closed out/over/done/fini) !!!! - Page 29 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #841 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fuzz092888 View Post

What's the output look like after adding the filter?

 

Here ya go.............

 

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post #842 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 04:32 PM
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Yeah way back when I bought a kit that they didn't have lined up right and it turned out to be a real pain in the arss! They also said nothing about gluing which would have been nice if lined up correctly. rolleyes.gif

 

Rafter squares and glue works well!  ;)

 

If you have the tools, the insert with glue whether Gorilla, Titebond II, or pig fat...............is the cleaner, better looking alternative.  Screws in MDF I'd avoid at all cost.  That doesn't leave too many options...............

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post #843 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 04:42 PM
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The concern with tee nuts or inserts like Double showed is the potential for them to come undone when trying to remove the screws, which is why I'd go with the glue route using some epoxy. If an insert or tee nut comes undone, you'll have to cut a hole in the enclosure to remove the insert. But even with that danger, I'd still recommend some sort of insert instead of a screw in bare wood.

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post #844 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Rafter squares and glue works well!  wink.gif

If you have the tools, the insert with glue whether Gorilla, Titebond II, or pig fat...............is the cleaner, better looking alternative.  Screws in MDF I'd avoid at all cost.  That doesn't leave too many options...............

Screws though MDF into 3/4 ply backing works just fine when mounting ring covers (you can't tell me different) 65 pounds is very heavy though, so I would suggest something like this http://www.parts-express.com/cast-frame-1-4-20-speaker-mounting-kit--260-778 with straight MDF.
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post #845 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post


Screws though MDF into 3/4 ply backing works just fine when mounting ring covers (you can't tell me different) 65 pounds is very heavy though, so I would suggest something like this http://www.parts-express.com/cast-frame-1-4-20-speaker-mounting-kit--260-778 with straight MDF.

 

 

I have no problem with that..................but if you're like me, when you change out drivers every 6 months, then my method just might be more convenient........................:D

 

BTW, those t-nuts in plywood would be fine............but NOT in MDF.....................  shrugs

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post #846 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 05:21 PM
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I have no problem with that..................but if you're like me, when you change out drivers every 6 months, then my method just might be more convenient........................biggrin.gif

That's why I like the ply backing route, but without the mounting ring it wouldn't look good. I've maybe had one or two get loose over the years and just break off 2-4 wooden toothpicks in the hole and no problemo. Whatever a guy wants though, just so it works.
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post #847 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post


That's why I like the ply backing route, but without the mounting ring it wouldn't look good. I've maybe had one or two get loose over the years and just break off 2-4 wooden toothpicks in the hole and no problemo. Whatever a guy wants though, just so it works.

 

 

Makes perfect sense...........if you like to screw.

 

I like to bolt!  :D

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post #848 of 1399 Old 03-04-2014, 08:32 PM
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I just make all my mounting panels out of 1" ply. Use any screws you want and never worry about them coming loose.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #849 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 06:04 AM
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Wow, lots of mounting strategies. Thanks guys!

My Gear: Sony VPL-HW40ES, 130" Spandex Screen, Onkyo TX-NR818, Fusion 12 Tempests (LCR), Axiom M3 & M2 Surrounds, Mach 5 UXL 18 Subwoofer

My theater: Escape from New York theater build
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post #850 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 10:24 AM
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Mine should be delivered tomorrow... along with a pair of Fusion-12's. biggrin.gif
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post #851 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 10:45 AM
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Spid> Wow, lots of mounting strategies. Thanks guys!

You will notice some of the dumb things we get going over here. There can five methods that work very well and some guy will post this is the only way to do it rolleyes.gif lol We all have our ways including some bad ways that might need tweaking? Or you have to do it this way because it's 2% better than your 95% when only 50% is required.

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post #852 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

You will notice some of the dumb things we get going over here. There can five methods that work very well and some guy will post this is the only way to do it rolleyes.gif lol We all have our ways including some bad ways that might need tweaking? Or you have to do it this way because it's 2% better than your 95% when only 50% is required.

Here at the avs forum, massive overkill is minimum code of practice.
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post #853 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 12:46 PM
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Touchdown!

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post #854 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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post #855 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 03:02 PM
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Touchdown!


Ok......

I googled 7951 Surrey, BC........and this is what I got!




Hmmmm...........makes sense.....biggrin.gif
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post #856 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Selling my miniDSP 2x4 Balanced kit revision B (latest). Like new, no-smoke, no pet environment. All original/factory packaging...about 20 hours of use.
Will include 12V power supply speced exactly for hardware. Power supply comes with a tinned whip for connection to Phoenix blocks.
This power supply has not been cannabalized...was matched to and used only with DSP.

$100 shipped CONUS with supply.


edit: it appears that one of our fine AVSers is already all over this...will post again if there is a problem.
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post #857 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 06:20 PM
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There's some additional venting that I haven't seen in previous pics.
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post #858 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 06:25 PM
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Here's before
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post #859 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
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There's some additional venting that I haven't seen in previous pics.
I have those too but Mark installed miniature tailpipe whistles on mine for a little wooo woooooooo! True story.
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post #860 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 07:03 PM
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Pics?
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post #861 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 07:20 PM
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post #862 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 07:37 PM
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Lol
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post #863 of 1399 Old 03-05-2014, 08:04 PM
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http://youtu.be/JZD-ADArwXo

Nice. There is NOBODY pictured on that vid except the TV host who could pass a drug screen, I guarantee you.
+++

Could we go back to the "screw mount" topic for a minute? (man, there is NO way to say that without it sounding X-rated)

I am ready to pull the trigger on some screws or bolts to mount my 15" woofers in MDF (3/4" inner baffle plus 3/4" outer baffle). I went to my local Lowes tonight and the Tee nuts were more than $3 each. I have been looking at the PE offerings, and this is what I think I need, a mounting kit with 8 screws/t-nuts:
http://www.parts-express.com/cast-frame-10-32-speaker-mounting-kit--260-776

My problem is how this will work with MDF. Some of you say this is exactly the thing, some of you say "never in MDF." Some of the review have the same mixed message.

I don't need 50 tee nuts, but for $6 this product has 6 teeth and the feedback says "works with MDF." Opinions?
http://www.parts-express.com/10-32-deluxe-6-prong-t-nuts-50-pcs--081-1088

And of course, 4 prong, with a course thread.
http://www.parts-express.com/10-24-t-nuts-50-pcs--081-1073
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post #864 of 1399 Old 03-06-2014, 03:10 AM
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post #865 of 1399 Old 03-06-2014, 03:46 AM
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I have those too but Mark installed miniature tailpipe whistles on mine for a little wooo woooooooo! True story.

Ahhh fond memories of ol Bubb Rubb and the Woooo woooooooo clan...lol
bubb-rubb-woo-woo-o.gif
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post #866 of 1399 Old 03-06-2014, 04:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Monkey...they worked well, right?
They seem ideal...coarse thread for the MDF/wood...wide head and flat underneath to prevent pull-through.
Choose the length that is appropriate for project (longer is available if anyone is using plywood backer pieces, which is a great idea)...pre-drill some small holes...and good to go! biggrin.gif
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post #867 of 1399 Old 03-06-2014, 05:02 AM
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Yeah I went with 1-1/2" for my application. my baffle is 3/4 MDF and 3/4 birch plywood. I know the coarse thread isn't ideal with the birch (hardwood), but we will see how it goes. I like the square drive, black coated, and flat washer head which is hard to find in a wood screw. I just wish there was more thread. Since its a pocket screw so the thread length makes sense.
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post #868 of 1399 Old 03-06-2014, 05:56 AM
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The concern with tee nuts is that they might loosen over time or destroy the surrounding wood if tightened too much. I think MDF is even more concerning for that. If the tee nut gets loose, your only real option is to cut a hole in your enclosure. This is why I made custom mounts for my big LMS 5400s.

Here is what I'd recommend for you but I'd glue some plywood in first so the screws could have something to mount to.
http://www.rockler.com/screw-on-tee-nuts-choose-size-thread

Or you could just use a coarse screw as others have suggested and screw into a glued plywood block.

If you do use regular tee nuts on MDF or plywood, epoxy them in place to reduce the chances of them loosening. And tighten your screws snug but don't overdo it or you could twist the tee nuts inside which would be bad.

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post #869 of 1399 Old 03-06-2014, 03:36 PM
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I'm proud to announce the arrival of my UXL-18 by UPS. Arrival time was 6:20 pm, and he weighs 50.4 pounds. Both daddy and baby are sleeping well. biggrin.gif

My Gear: Sony VPL-HW40ES, 130" Spandex Screen, Onkyo TX-NR818, Fusion 12 Tempests (LCR), Axiom M3 & M2 Surrounds, Mach 5 UXL 18 Subwoofer

My theater: Escape from New York theater build
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post #870 of 1399 Old 03-06-2014, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Spider. I guess that definitively nails the weight of the driver question!
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