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post #1 of 145 Old 12-25-2013, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Got a standard ryobi 15 hp table saw for xmas. How effective are they for building TV stands, and sub woofer/monitor enclosures?
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post #2 of 145 Old 12-25-2013, 04:28 PM
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You need a good fence. If the standard one isn't good get a biesmeyer one. That and some push sticks and you can build lots of stuff. A bostich nailer is helpful as well ,and some clamps.
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post #3 of 145 Old 12-25-2013, 08:30 PM
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post #4 of 145 Old 12-25-2013, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

You need a good fence. If the standard one isn't good get a biesmeyer one. That and some push sticks and you can build lots of stuff. A bostich nailer is helpful as well ,and some clamps.

A good laminate router never hurt either!...lol wink.gif
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post #5 of 145 Old 12-26-2013, 09:20 AM
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I have a SkillSaw table saw that I purchased several months ago when it was on sale at Lowes. I like it, a lot, but, I would really like to have a wider platform and a better fence. Do you guys know of any aftermarket solutions to this topic?
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post #6 of 145 Old 12-26-2013, 01:15 PM
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Post some pics of the saw and i will try to help.
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post #7 of 145 Old 12-26-2013, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
 
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I will post some pics after I unbox it. Thanx
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post #8 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 09:36 PM - Thread Starter
 
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[IMG][IMG]
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post #9 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 09:37 PM - Thread Starter
 
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post #10 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
 
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post #11 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 09:41 PM - Thread Starter
 
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i dont see how you could make wide cuts with this saw. table is so small. 20" top. this is my first table saw. i have experience with professional table saws. for $139.99 and as a xmas gift... i guess i cant complain

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post #12 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 09:48 PM
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Something like this
http://m.ebay.com/itm/301050274848

You will need to build extension table so you have 24" deep and 48" wide. You can buy them buts it easy to build. You will want a better blade then you have. Freud make good blades.
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post #13 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 09:49 PM
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Need to mount saw on permanent base as well.
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post #14 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 10:01 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Need to mount saw on permanent base as well.

mount through concrete floor?

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post #15 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 10:09 PM
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If your going to use this on a regular basis then you need to have it securely mounted. If its just a few times a year then that's different . Mount a base made of wood , ideally with a cupboard to store blades and push sticks. Screw through the base into the concrete . Trying to cut a 4 x 8 sheet of mdf on a saw on flimsy base is dangerous . If your just cutting small pieces then the stock base will do.
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post #16 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 10:26 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

If your going to use this on a regular basis then you need to have it securely mounted. If its just a few times a year then that's different . Mount a base made of wood , ideally with a cupboard to store blades and push sticks. Screw through the base into the concrete . Trying to cut a 4 x 8 sheet of mdf on a saw on flimsy base is dangerous . If your just cutting small pieces then the stock base will do.

you have helped greatly!!!!!!!!!!!

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post #17 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 10:30 PM
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Tablesaw , nailer , drill , and router and you can build almost anything smile.gif
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post #18 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 10:50 PM
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Here's some pics to help
hymudu6u.jpg
a6a3a6ab.jpg
rusybypu.jpg
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post #19 of 145 Old 12-27-2013, 11:10 PM
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Best part is, you can use your new table saw to make a table for your saw.
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post #20 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 12:55 AM - Thread Starter
 
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i have 2 sheets of particle board with thick white coating on both sides. i guess im going to pick up 5 2X4's, frame it up and use the the boards as the top table. since this saw doesnt have a saw dust collector.. i better put soe wheels on this beast so i can wheel it outside lol

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post #21 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD28 View Post

i have 2 sheets of particle board with thick white coating on both sides. i guess im going to pick up 5 2X4's, frame it up and use the the boards as the top table. since this saw doesnt have a saw dust collector.. i better put soe wheels on this beast so i can wheel it outside lol


Particle board can be used for the top but not the base. You want mdf or plywood for that. A shopvac can work well as a dust collector in a pinch.

Get some of this or something similar
http://www.rockler.com/bostik-glidecote-table-tool-surface-sealant

It protects the surface of tablesaw from rusting and makes the surface smoother for wood to hide on

Your going to want to make one of these to make crosscuts.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=crosscut+jig&client=ms-android-bell-ca&source=android-browser&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=c4W-UvPoFMHyoASN-YL4Ag&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAA&biw=360&bih=567#biv=i%7C8%3Bd%7CY1P-V6ON-pDFGM%3A

I would make it a little bigger then that picture .
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post #22 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post


Particle board can be used for the top but not the base. You want mdf or plywood for that. A shopvac can work well as a dust collector in a pinch.

Get some of this or something similar
http://www.rockler.com/bostik-glidecote-table-tool-surface-sealant

It protects the surface of tablesaw from rusting and makes the surface smoother for wood to hide on

Your going to want to make one of these to make crosscuts.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=crosscut+jig&client=ms-android-bell-ca&source=android-browser&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=c4W-UvPoFMHyoASN-YL4Ag&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAA&biw=360&bih=567#biv=i%7C8%3Bd%7CY1P-V6ON-pDFGM%3A

I would make it a little bigger then that picture .

thanx buddy. youve been awesome! just got back from home depot. got 8 2X4's(8ft) and one 2X8(12ft)... 80 16 penny nails, a T, and a 77 cent home depot pouch lol. not gonna bother with ply wood to build a base. gonna use the white particle board for the top. thanx again :)

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post #23 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
 
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im going with a design just like this. very simple

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post #24 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 08:12 PM
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That's a sweet one ! smile.gif
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post #25 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 10:28 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

That's a sweet one ! smile.gif

mine wont look nowhere as good lol.

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post #26 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 10:41 PM
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Biggest thing is getting the fence rail system lined up square . The back end of the fence when you cut should be just slightly bowed out ( 1/32). Never want it binding in ,since the wood will bind on the blade. I usually cut with just the splitter on (find the whole guard gets in the way and is more dangerous for me) but use whatever is best for you.
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post #27 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 10:47 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Biggest thing is getting the fence rail system lined up square . The back end of the fence when you cut should be just slightly bowed out ( 1/32). Never want it binding in ,since the wood will bind on the blade. I usually cut with just the splitter on (find the whole guard gets in the way and is more dangerous for me) but use whatever is best for you.

do you use the back-lash thingy behind the splitter?

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post #28 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 10:56 PM
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Like this
y9y7u4et.jpg
Splitter with anti-kickback. You will also need to make a throat guard. Use oak and get it to fit like this.
a2e6a8yr.jpg
Once it fits raise the blade up while saw is running so you have a good fit. Then you don't get pieces jammed in there.
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post #29 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 11:00 PM - Thread Starter
 
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very nice! i think im gonna take that guard off and just use the splitter/back-lash. those plastic guards block stuff and seem totally opposite of safe lol

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post #30 of 145 Old 12-28-2013, 11:04 PM
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Yes , they tend to block a jam from view. Just be careful and never put your fingers in harms way. Been using the tablesaw for 30 years and had a couple of close calls (usually when ripping wood under 1 inch wide) but never nicked my fingers
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