18" Hole Cutter or Hole Saw - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 01-03-2014, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone know where you can buy an 18" hole saw or hole cutter to fit an 18" subwoofer driver?

I am planning to build an 18" subwoofer but have no idea how to cut a clean 18" hole to fit the 18" subwoofer driver?

I know at Home Depot you can buy 4" hole saw or hole cutter but nothing close to an 18" hole saw?

At Parts Express, they sell an 18" cabinet for an 18" driver but I wanted to make a ported cabinet myself. I also like to make the cabinet a little larger than what they are selling.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-reference-series-ho-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7094
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post #2 of 26 Old 01-03-2014, 08:30 PM
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You need to use a router...or a jig saw...or a rotary tool.

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post #3 of 26 Old 01-03-2014, 08:30 PM
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Use a router with a circle cutting jig.

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post #4 of 26 Old 01-03-2014, 08:39 PM
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If 18" is as big as you will need to go the jasper circle jig and a router are the way to go. They have another model that is good for 7" to 56" if you ever need to build a cabinet for that 36" subwoofer you have been lusting after.

http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388806476&sr=8-1&keywords=jasper+circle+jigs
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post #5 of 26 Old 01-03-2014, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for your advice!
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post #6 of 26 Old 01-03-2014, 09:05 PM
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A router is best, but if you take your time you can get great results with a jigsaw. You could also go to a cabinet shop and have them do it...doubt it would cost that much.
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post #7 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trevordj View Post

If 18" is as big as you will need to go the jasper circle jig and a router are the way to go. They have another model that is good for 7" to 56" if you ever need to build a cabinet for that 36" subwoofer you have been lusting after.

http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388806476&sr=8-1&keywords=jasper+circle+jigs


Did I read that right? A 36" subwoofer??? This is a joke right?

Where in the world can you even get a 36" subwoofer driver?

Does that 36" subwoofer come with a warning sign not to bring your home down? lol
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post #8 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter
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A lot of great help here!

What other supplies will I need in order to make a subwoofer? Such as the best glue for MDF boards, the best clamps to hold all the MDF boards together, etc...
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post #9 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 12:28 PM
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All you really need is a flat work surface, tape measure, a straight edge or carpenters square 24" is best, a screw gun, yellow carpenters glue (I like title-bond 2), a wood rasp and a jigsaw. This will let you build most basic cabinets. Circular saws, table saws, routers make the job easier and more accurate but are not a requirement to build most things. You can forget clamps if you have heavy objects around ( a 90 pound bag of sand is pretty cheap)

If you are looking to make several cabinets, I would consider a circular saw and a basic router.

Most of all, you have a vast resource here on this site. Just ask questions.
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post #10 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 12:38 PM
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A jasper jig cuts circles easily as recommended previously. But just a heads up, if you plan on recess mounting the driver, you'll need to drill you own guilde hole on the jig, because the jig only goes up to 18.5" and the OD of some of the 18s are a little bigger.
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post #11 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Which is easier to use and for cut out on the back of the sub, the square plate or the circle plate?

I would think the circle plate would be much easier because you can just use a 2" hole saw or hole cuter and call it a day. While the square plate is harder to cut a straight line by a saw and it will come out not very clean looking.



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post #12 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urapnes1 View Post

All you really need is a flat work surface, tape measure, a straight edge or carpenters square 24" is best, a screw gun, yellow carpenters glue (I like title-bond 2), a wood rasp and a jigsaw. This will let you build most basic cabinets. Circular saws, table saws, routers make the job easier and more accurate but are not a requirement to build most things. You can forget clamps if you have heavy objects around ( a 90 pound bag of sand is pretty cheap)

If you are looking to make several cabinets, I would consider a circular saw and a basic router.

Most of all, you have a vast resource here on this site. Just ask questions.


Excellent advice!

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Originally Posted by thucker View Post

A jasper jig cuts circles easily as recommended previously. But just a heads up, if you plan on recess mounting the driver, you'll need to drill you own guilde hole on the jig, because the jig only goes up to 18.5" and the OD of some of the 18s are a little bigger.


Maybe I will skip the recess mounting because it seems too difficult. lol
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post #13 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 01:11 PM
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You can cut a recess with a jigsaw. The recess will be whatever the thickness of the wood is.
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post #14 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 01:17 PM
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If you have the right holesaw then go for it. You can do the job just as quick with a jigsaw. Also prying the pieces of wood out of the hole saw sucks.
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post #15 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urapnes1 View Post

You can cut a recess with a jigsaw. The recess will be whatever the thickness of the wood is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by urapnes1 View Post

If you have the right holesaw then go for it. You can do the job just as quick with a jigsaw. Also prying the pieces of wood out of the hole saw sucks.


Very good!
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post #16 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thucker View Post

A jasper jig cuts circles easily as recommended previously. But just a heads up, if you plan on recess mounting the driver, you'll need to drill you own guilde hole on the jig, because the jig only goes up to 18.5" and the OD of some of the 18s are a little bigger.

The Jasper jig is calibrated for a .25" bit so to cut a larger hole just use a larger diameter router bit. For cutting the recess I usually use a 1.25" mortising bit which will allow you to cut a hole up to 19 3/16"
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 04:44 PM
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I'd like to see the hole saw blade myself. Wonder if would need an industrial drill for such a blade. I'd hate to get caught in a blade grab with such torque and sized blade 😧
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post #18 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

I'd like to see the hole saw blade myself. Wonder if would need an industrial drill for such a blade. I'd hate to get caught in a blade grab with such torque and sized blade 😧

I was referring to a 2" hole saw for the terminal cup. smile.gifsmile.gif

...but they do make adjustable fly cutters for ceiling speakers and recessed lights that get pretty big. I have one that will do a 12" cut out. You do need a 1/2" drill for it though.
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post #19 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urapnes1 View Post

I was referring to a 2" hole saw for the terminal cup. smile.gifsmile.gif

...but they do make adjustable fly cutters for ceiling speakers and recessed lights that get pretty big. I have one that will do a 12" cut out. You do need a 1/2" drill for it though.

Ok. But I was talking about the original poster's comments/question on where to find an 18" hole saw blade.

What are the fly cutters called? Interesting. Are all 1/2" drills industrial sized drills (like 10lbs with more torque than a mule?). I had a guy build a wooden fence out of posts and he had a mega drill.
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post #20 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

Ok. But I was talking about the original poster's comments/question on where to find an 18" hole saw blade.

What are the fly cutters called? Interesting. Are all 1/2" drills industrial sized drills (like 10lbs with more torque than a mule?). I had a guy build a wooden fence out of posts and he had a mega drill.

Here is a link to the 12" holesaw I was referring to http://www.amazon.com/Hole-Cutter-Kit-Cut-Dia/dp/B006ERSKJG/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

All 1/2" drills are not the same. Look up drills such as Milwaukee Super Hawg, Milwaukee hole hawk, harbor freight 1/2" drills. I have the harbor freight low rpm 1/2" and the Super Hawg. The super hawg is scary to use because of the power that it has, but it will bore a 3-inch hole through a triple top plate in seconds!!!
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post #21 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 05:26 PM
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post #22 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 05:31 PM
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While on topic of tools, I used to make boxes/enclosures for all my friends in highschool since was only person that thought could do it. All I had was a cheap drill and antique jig saw. They normally came out really well but never really figured out how to master the thin blades of the jig saw at that young age (prolly made first one at 13 then last with only jig saw at 15/16 or so). Is there a technique to cutting the circle at a 90* angle that I never picked up on back then? The blade would bend at an angle and seems like I never could cut a circle without it being a little angled. Memory of this is faint (over 20yrs since have cut a circle with jig saw). I was happy getting tools for bdays and christmas when I had my license since going through subs/systems was never ending for a while.

I remember one guy couldn't afford enough plywood so he had me use 2x12s as the sides lol.
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post #23 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 05:37 PM
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Yea that super Hawg is similar to the one I handled. It was bigger and had double handle on it. Was bad a$$ and put a bit through locust tree posts in a snap.
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post #24 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post

is there a technique to cutting the circle at a 90* angle that I never picked up on back then? The blade would bend at an angle and seems like I never could cut a circle without it being a little angled.

The quality of the saw and the width of the blade make a difference. I only used Bosch jigsaws as they were the best at the time. Some have upper and lower blade supports to keep the blades from deflecting. Super aggressive blades seemed to deflect less for me, but still a wood rasp would quickly square things up. Jigsaw can do it all, but there are better tools that can be used.
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post #25 of 26 Old 01-04-2014, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Is Parts Express the only place to buy 18" subwoofer drivers?

I was looking at their new Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil. Is this a good subwoofer driver from Parts Express?

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um18-22-18-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-518

Also, what would be the best amp to use with the Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil? I was thinking of getting a separate amp to drive the sub and not an amp that connect to the back of the sub.

Something like this amp:

http://www.parts-express.com/behringer-ep4000-europower-power-amplifier-2-x-1400w--248-748


It is showing 2 x 14000w. Can I use this amp to drive 2 of the 18" subwoofers?

On the back of this amp, I see 1 and 2 connectors which I believe you can drive 2 subwoofers for this amp. But is the amp power rating be good enough for the Dayton Audio UM18-22 18" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil?

Click on the image to Enlarge:

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post #26 of 26 Old 01-05-2014, 03:57 AM
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I wonder if cutting a hole with a jigsaw would look a little better if rounded over with a router roundover bit?

Mind you, if you have the router, you may as well use it to cut the hole.

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