First sub build, Dayton RSS390HO 15", little help? - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 08:17 PM
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Do you have a SPL meter? You might be pushing the sub too hard.
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post #32 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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No, and no identifying names/numbers on the plate amp either. All I know is that it came off of an almost 20 year old 10" RBH sub. I'm having a hard time believing it's being pushed at all.
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post #33 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 08:39 PM
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Maybe it doesn't have a high pass filter or clipping.
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post #34 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Would a hpf even come into play on a music cd? According to the link above the box is now tuned to about 19hz., I didn't think there was that much content that low on a music track? Sorry for all the questions, I guess my noob is showing.
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post #35 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 09:07 PM
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There are some music with ulf content but I doubt evanescence would be one of them. Is there a clipping indicator/led on the amp? Any info on the amp? Could be a piece of crap that only outputs 50w lol.
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post #36 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 09:27 PM - Thread Starter
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No indicator, I googled every number I could find on it and got nothing.
The same thing happened on the 10" as well.
Will a really underpowered amp cause that?
Parts express has plate amps on sale, I really don't know how to determine how to proceed. I had planned on getting an amp and have been considering the Yung 500, or the Dayton SPA 250. The Yung is a class D, the Dayton an A/B. I'm not really sure what that means.
Would you try a new amp or new sub first?
I can't say thanks enough, there is a lot of info to try and take in, I really appreciate you guys sharing your experience.
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post #37 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 09:38 PM
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Will a really underpowered amp cause that?

No, I wouldn’t think so. What amp are you running, I thought you did have the Yung. At 500w you shouldn’t have any problem with the driver bottoming unless driven very hard with really low LFE content.

EDIT> I see the HO is SVC so it’s straight forward how to wire. I’m thinking you have some issue with your amp if it’s doing the clank with both drivers? I can’t be certain though. A bad amp can wreck, put out a good driver so lets hope that’s not the case. I thought you had a new driver but now I see the driver and amp isn't new.

I just checked a previous post. I simmed up the 18” HO. When you buy a amp I would go 250-300w amp instead of 500w so you stay amp limited to a big degree. The SPA ought to have a PEQ at 18 which would be a help. I would have to double check that though. I know the SPA500 and 1000 does.

EDIT> This is with 250w no filter applied. Every thing looks fine except your air velocity is off the chart with 2” ports. You also need to cut them back to 6.30 inches long going with the 2” ports. With 4” ports they come in at about 27” long plus flare. So 30” like you have would work for 20hz tune. Since your driver and amp is second hand, none of us can tell you what the issue is. I would start out by pushing the driver in with your finger tips carefully and see if you hear a scratching noise. If not I would proceed with the new amp and two 4” ports 30” long and take it from there. I see the SPA250 has no PEQ.


15HO_zps10265edd.png

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post #38 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 12:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Hooked it up straight to the receiver(an old kenwood vr 616) and it sounded better at low volume levels. I'll crank it a little bit tomorrow when the wife isn't sleeping.
Not sure where the 2"dia port size came from, maybe I miss typed something? There are 2 ports, each is 4" x 31ish", hard to be precise measuring through the elbow.
Sounds like you are recommending the Dayton amp? One of the larger ones with the PEQ? built in.
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post #39 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 12:33 AM
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Your right! I went back to your first post and there it was. I guess I got fouled up when you planted the odd pieces or something? I get a few posts or things going at once and am not carful enough also, case in point> like simming the 18” Ho instead of the 15”. You could do the SPA500 if you wanted to, it would put your air velocity over but after applying the PEQ at 19-20hz your fine. I think it’s down 2dB at 20 anyway. In this case (this is good) You measure your port from the middle, so taking that into account you’re most likely at 30? It’s not going to make any difference anyway being that close.

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post #40 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Is this box under braced?

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post #41 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by MrMky View Post

Is this box under braced?

What's the spacing between braces? Spaced four inches apart they might be sufficient. The braces themselves place most of the bracing in the cabinet corners, where it does the least amount of good, but there's no direct connection of the middles of the opposing panels, where it's needed the most. No offense, but IME that's a classic example of how not to brace a cabinet.

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post #42 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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No offense taken. This is my first build and I'm learning a lot. I kind of figured something was off when I could feel the sides of the box still vibrating. My first thought is to start throwing some dowels in. The center brace was as much to support the ports as brace the walls. Build and learn, lol.

I discovered that powering the sub with the receiver sounds much better, no clanking! Lots of distortion though at higher levels though, an amp with more juice should clean that up I hope. It's still only getting 100 watts.

Pushing the cone in was nice and smooth, no scraping or friction.
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post #43 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 10:15 AM
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I discovered that powering the sub with the receiver sounds much better, no clanking! Lots of distortion though at higher levels though, an amp with more juice should clean that up I hope. It's still only getting 100 watts.

Pushing the cone in was nice and smooth, no scraping or friction.

Hey that’s good to hear! I don’t know if you have considered this or not but you don’t have to incorporate your amp into the build. It gives you more flexibility in many ways and makes the sub lighter. It might not appeal to you.. but thought I would bring it up as a option. You can build a little cradle type rack for it if you choose. Since bracing has come up, you have your back panel to think of also if you’re going to address that when incorporating the dowels. wink.gif

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post #44 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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The back is triangle braced to two of the front corners. I think the biggest problems are that each side has two 12"x24" spaces with no bracing, the back is only braced in the center.
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post #45 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MrMky View Post

I think the biggest problems are that each side has two 12"x24" spaces with no bracing, the back is only braced in the center.
The 24 inch dimension isn't a problem, the 12 inch is. I don't go wider than 8 inch spacing in one direction (the other doesn't matter) and that's with a direct panel to panel connection.

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post #46 of 77 Old 01-25-2014, 11:30 AM
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I’m not sure what you’re exactly saying but I think I do.. I do fully understand the “12"x24" spaces with no bracing, the back is only braced in the center” though. For simplicity sake would coupling another 3/4 panel on the back like your baffle be a option you could live with? and if a option possibly adding a few dowels where it makes sense from the front. You might be able to do it with just the dowels with drilling holes from the limited view I have. That would be a big help.

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post #47 of 77 Old 01-26-2014, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Next one will be braced differently, er properly. I attempted to salvage what I had rather than cut out the bracing and start over.

What I had^
What I added

Hopefully this will help someone to better brace their first project the first time.
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post #48 of 77 Old 01-26-2014, 11:47 PM
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It wont hurt.. you’ll be rewarded with better bass for taking the extra time.

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post #49 of 77 Old 01-31-2014, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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It's almost time to order a plate amp. I've spent a lot of time looking at options but I still have some questions unanswered. PE is having a sale and is offering the Yung 500 for $149 and the Bash 500 for $199. I talked to their tech assistance to ask about high pass filters on each and got vague responses. My enclosure should be tuned to around 19-20hz, if I get an amp with a high pass around 30hz won't I be missing a lot of LFE content?
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post #50 of 77 Old 01-31-2014, 01:24 PM
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The SPA500 has something like the Butterworth filter at 20 which you need and I suggest. It also has the PEQ function which can be more of a help as a +- filter up higher or added to the HP. If you use the L and R input instead of the LFE input, be sure to use a Y on this amp.

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post #51 of 77 Old 01-31-2014, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I've read several complaints about noise from shared outlets with the Dayton's, which has kind of put me off, is this really a common problem with them? I've also read the Bash amps dropped their hpf to around 22, but have not been able to get a really solid confirmation.
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post #52 of 77 Old 01-31-2014, 05:02 PM
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I’ve heard that also and experienced it. When I picked up the SPA1000 (second time I’ve had it) I was quite leery and glad after hooking it up I no problem at all. That’s not to say that would be the case with you though? I guess the best you can do is do the Google gig and then make the best decision that you can from there. I’ve had mostly pro amps except for plates associated with ID options and have had problems with all types at some point and time. The Bash looks ify? If you do get a amp with a 6db boost, I would be sure it’s on off selectable though.

EDIT> The Yung 500 (no boost) has a filter at 20 which would serve you well in your case.

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post #53 of 77 Old 01-31-2014, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have experience with this?
http://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125
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post #54 of 77 Old 01-31-2014, 08:50 PM
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Does anyone have experience with this?
http://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125

Nice! http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482030/new-2ch-plate-amp-minidsp-with-icepower-125asx2

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post #55 of 77 Old 02-01-2014, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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So now the I nukes are on sale, great, just when I think I've got it figured out. I'm planning on doing a twin to this in the not too distant future, I guess it makes the most sense to get the 3000dsp at $279. Only problem is that my poor old receiver doesn't have a preout for an amp, or even a sub preout. Is there a way around this? My guess is that I just need to upgrade the receiver, to something not 15 yrs old.
In other news, here are the feet for the box. This is not fun with a handsaw and palm sander.

Would there be any benefit to adding spikes? I really don't want to put holes in the carpet and this "ugly unfinished box" is already irritating my sweetie.
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post #56 of 77 Old 02-01-2014, 10:08 AM
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I hate spikes, but then that’s a personal preference. Hey I haven't seen that glue mentioned around here for a long time. It used to be the rave..

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post #57 of 77 Old 02-02-2014, 05:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Almost ready for finish!
My wife thinks I'm crazy for telling her we(I) need another one, here's the room it's in

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post #58 of 77 Old 02-03-2014, 10:20 AM
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My wife thinks I'm crazy for telling her we(I) need another one, here's the room it's in

If you look at my signature you’ll notice that I’m in a on going SW management class that has two openings that just came up. It would help the both of you resolve or should I say support your idea of dual and help talk her into it. It’s very bass bias.. rolleyes.gifwink.gif

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post #59 of 77 Old 02-07-2014, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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That won't happen, she is not at all excited with my new hobby/addiction. Maybe once I get it finished and pretty,....
Finally ordered an amp from parts express!! Budget forced me to go with the Yung 500 w no boost. I really wanted to get the inuke 300 but would have had to upgrade my receiver as well and that was out of my current budget.
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post #60 of 77 Old 02-07-2014, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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By the way, thank you Steve for the continuing help.
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