First sub build, Dayton RSS390HO 15", little help? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 12:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I got bit by the HT bug after getting a vizio 4251 soundbar for my wife. It was supposed to be for her and our daughter to stream music on, but after hearing the thundering bass(ha ha) from the 6" sub I started staying up all night reading countless threads on sub building.
I found the dayton sub from a local for $100 and just couldn't resist. After all my sleepless nights I'm thinking that a 24" cube with 2 4" ports around 30" long will get me close to a happy bass place. It's going into a room that's an acoustical nightmare, ~25x25 with a vaulted ceiling and includes hallways and a kitchen. The sub will be almost exclusively used for movies and gaming. I'll be running it through a small plate amp which is probably only good for 100-200 watts, I plan on going to a bash 300 within a few months.
I'm hoping some one will let me know if I'm on the right path, or help me find my way to it. Thanks in advance, any help would be hugely appreciated.
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post #2 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 12:26 AM
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In that huge room with that sub you will get some bass but nothing that is going to wake the people up downstairs . Compared to a soundbar though it will thunder. smile.gif

You need to give more info about what you want to achieve , budget , volume u listen at , etc.
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post #3 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 01:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Budget is as little as possible, wife was not impressed when I walked in holding a 15" sub like a trophy.
When watching movies the volume setting on my old kenwood receiver is -25db. I would like to feel some bass, scare the pet dogs and cats, nothing too crazy, just something tangible. I found a cheap, old 10" powered sub for 35$ that puts out substantially more bass than the little vizio module, but it can't handle a lot of the content in the movies I have watched without bottoming. Even so, I still enjoy watching a lot more with it than without.
In the long term, we will finish our basement and I will add at least one more sub.
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post #4 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 12:04 PM
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At your price point you get the most bang with a ported design. That makes it bigger though , so you might need to make it a end table or coffee table design to please the wife
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post #5 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't have a way to model an enclosure, limited to iPad or phone right now. I posted rough specs above, excluding port and speaker volume, it puts me around 6 cubic feet? Is that big enough to get down around 20hz?
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post #6 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMky View Post

I don't have a way to model an enclosure, limited to iPad or phone right now. I posted rough specs above, excluding port and speaker volume, it puts me around 6 cubic feet? Is that big enough to get down around 20hz?

It should. Your best plan would be to pm ltd02 with your exact sizes , driver , and tuning frequency you want. He can design a box quickly that will be great. smile.gif
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post #7 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 01:16 PM
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Rough estimate of the final enclosure volume

 

5.5cu ft

Tuned to 19hz

Two 4" x 30" ports

300w and a 20hz 2nd order highpass.

 

 



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post #8 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you guys for the help. It's reassuring to know I was in the ballpark, that takes a lot of worry out of actually starting on the cabinet. I hope to be cutting in the coming week.
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post #9 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 04:32 PM
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I have one in a 1.7cft sealed with the 1000 watt plate amp and it sounds pretty good...I had moved it to a computer room and hooked up a 150 watt plate amp and it didn't push it at all...
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post #10 of 77 Old 01-05-2014, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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If I understand correctly, sealed boxes require much more juice than a ported enclosure? How did u end up with such a small box? From the little I know I would have guessed the minimum to be around 3 ft?
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post #11 of 77 Old 01-06-2014, 03:23 AM
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It was built that way when I bought it....i bought the sub and the guy gave me 2 enclosures. ..just haven't gotten around to buying the other sub for the other enclosure. .....my main sub is 3 NhT 10'
s in 3.9cft sealed....Subinferno......found over in tech talk designed by Steve Henry...when I had sealed twelve they were in 2cft........yours will be fine.......
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post #12 of 77 Old 01-18-2014, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quick update, box is almost ready to start finish, but i couldn't wait. The front and sides are glued, but the back and the sub are just screwed on, and the ports are just snugged in and are only ~ 6" long, and it's not braced or lined with any fill. I put in Transformers 2 and the first time it hit it scared me a little! I can't wait to hear/feel it when it's properly finished with a decent amp.
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post #13 of 77 Old 01-18-2014, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMky View Post

Quick update, box is almost ready to start finish, but i couldn't wait. The front and sides are glued, but the back and the sub are just screwed on, and the ports are just snugged in and are only ~ 6" long, and it's not braced or lined with any fill. I put in Transformers 2 and the first time it hit it scared me a little! I can't wait to hear/feel it when it's properly finished with a decent amp.

Only 6" long? That will substantially raise your tuning frequency. Be prepared for a very different rumble with the proper lengths.
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post #14 of 77 Old 01-19-2014, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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They were just some odd pieces I used to size the port holes. My wife unfortunately was not impressed with the "shaking" of the house. Might make the second one a harder sale.
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post #15 of 77 Old 01-19-2014, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMky View Post

They were just some odd pieces I used to size the port holes. My wife unfortunately was not impressed with the "shaking" of the house. Might make the second one a harder sale.

LOL you must be on the right track then wink.gif Do you have any pics you might be able to post?

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post #16 of 77 Old 01-20-2014, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Here it is next to the sad little 10" sub.
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post #17 of 77 Old 01-21-2014, 12:43 AM
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^^^ Is it your intention on keeping the 6” ports? I can’t imagine what your tune is without doing a sim. Do you even want to know?

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post #18 of 77 Old 01-21-2014, 04:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm a little curious to how those ports change the tune. They will be replaced soon by ~30" ports. I hope to have it braced, filled with some poly and the legs put on this coming weekend.
Parts Express has the Yung 500 watt plate amp on sale for only $150, would that be a good match?
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post #19 of 77 Old 01-21-2014, 05:32 AM
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500 puts you right under xmax although Josh over at Data says it has much more to give safely. 18-20mm instead of 12. It’s good to be safe though so 500 is good. Looks like your tune is coming in at about 19-20ish which should serve you well.

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post #20 of 77 Old 01-22-2014, 06:11 AM
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Maybe I'm missing something here, but how are you going to fit 30" ports in that enclosure?
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post #21 of 77 Old 01-22-2014, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by neverfinished94 View Post

Maybe I'm missing something here, but how are you going to fit 30" ports in that enclosure?

What he said  ^^^^^

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post #22 of 77 Old 01-22-2014, 11:38 AM
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What he said  ^^^^^

You bend them down or up the back depending how you're looking at it.

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post #23 of 77 Old 01-22-2014, 07:00 PM
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You bend them down or up the back depending how you're looking at it.

Got it. Edit just saw that he used the small ones to rough it in. So how do you bend these longer tubes? Does direction matter when doing this?
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post #24 of 77 Old 01-22-2014, 08:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Still kind of curious, if anyone could tell me how much does port length change the tune of the box? I have noticed a couple of times that the speaker has bottomed? I'm very new so not sure what I'm hearing. My thought is that the tune is now significantly higher so that when it gets a signal lower than it's tuned for, it causes the speaker to bottom? Plate amps have a hpf built in, but in this case the tune is high enough that the filter wouldn't help protect it? I have never had the volume on the receiver higher than -15, and the current amp does not have much juice, I would be surprised if it had over 100 watts, so I don't think I have ever really pushed it very hard yet.

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post #25 of 77 Old 01-22-2014, 11:29 PM
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Because of air velocity we need to go with larger diameter ports which winisd calculates for us. Here is a simple calculator that only deals with tune though. Try changing the diameter of the port leaving every thing else constant and you will see how much the length changes.
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm

Right now your tune is way to high and your driving your driver beyond xmax. Once you have it tuned properly it will alleviate your problem except for down really low where you could use a filter. Your ports ought to be 2 X 4” instead of 2” diameter ports to reduce air velocity.

The red line across is your axmax line with the HO but in actuality it will take more. The HO is the purple line. The reason your excursion is so low at 20hz is because your port is contributing so much around tune.



Quote:
Got it. Edit just saw that he used the small ones to rough it in. So how do you bend these longer tubes? Does direction matter when doing this?

You buy a elbow.

http://www.parts-express.com/search.aspx?N=4294967118&No=64&Nrpp=64&Nrs=collection()/record[endeca:matches(.,"P_PortalID","1") and endeca:matches(.,"P_Searchable","1")]&Ntt=ports&PortalID=1

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post #26 of 77 Old 01-23-2014, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link. That tells me that I'm currently tuned to around 37hz. So I should feel and hear quite a difference when the proper length ports are installed.
Damn forums, I'm already looking at the 18" dayton ultra max driver and dreaming about my next sub.
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post #27 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 03:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's a couple pics of the process.

This brace took a ridiculous amount of time to make with all my precision tools shown above.

Ports fit nice and snug.
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post #28 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I hate watching glue dry,....

Hopefully fiberglass insulation is ok to use for fill?
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post #29 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 04:46 PM
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Looking like your project is moving along. http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79 Check out Vented System..

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post #30 of 77 Old 01-24-2014, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Well crap. All back together, my sub is still clanking. Gain on the amp is less than 1/4, it clanked with my Evanescence CD with receiver at -15. I'm guessing this means I have a bad driver/sub? How do I know for sure? Also, after adding bracing, I can still feel the box vibrating when it hits, does this mean I'm still under braced?
Really not very happy right now.
I guess maybe this is a great time to put one of the ultra max 15s in the box.
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