So here will be the first ever sub I have ever build, I just received the dual HS 24" drivers from Nick last weekend, Nick did a great job in solid packaging to ensure its perfect condition throughout the long journey delivery, special thanks to Nick
planning to start the build in coming weeks
Previously, I have owned many ported subs like Klipsch Sub 10 (my first ever sub
), HSU MBM-12, Rythmik FV15HP, Rythmik F12 (sealed), SVS PC12-Plus and JTR Captivator (4K Watts Passive) & dual buttkicker LFE tactile transducers, I really want to try sealed subs this time for the extreme low frequencies
I have a question here, will these dual sealed subs achieve my goal in a non-sealed room? as my setup is in my living room with open areas to kitchen
As for the sealed box dimension, I would like to go for a 10 cubic feet or 28" x 28" x 28", any recommendations & suggestions are most welcome
especially on areas such as internal bracing, polyfill......etc
I'll tell you my feeling on bracing, but some would call it overkill......but I'm saying this to a guy with 24" subs soooo
I like to place bracing so there is no more than a six inch space unbraced in any given direction where possible. I also like to make panels instead of just using stick bracing. To me, it's more time consuming, but a bit easier to get amble bracing in and be sure to clear all the internals by designing the brace as a whole piece around everthing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 /t/1511560/sealed-dual-stereo-integrity-hs-24-build#post_24202735
I'll tell you my feeling on bracing, but some would call it overkill......but I'm saying this to a guy with 24" subs soooo
I like to place bracing so there is no more than a six inch space unbraced in any given direction where possible. I also like to make panels instead of just using stick bracing. To me, it's more time consuming, but a bit easier to get amble bracing in and be sure to clear all the internals by designing the brace as a whole piece around everthing.
IMO yes. Just remember you don't need it at each end panel because the panel itself acts there. I would make the window that spans top to bottom and side to side first (a number of them based on the box size) just because you can make the cutout for the driver basket and motor.....then just put front to back bracing in between each window panel. Use angles coming off the front baffle to "ride" the basket toward the center of the first brace and attach as close to center as possible while clearing the driver. Sorry if that's elementary, I know you said its your first one and these are the things that have made it easier for me since my first projects. Now I make other stupid mistakes....like putting so much bracing that I can't get my hand to the inside back to install binding posts
Stuffing makes subtle differences. So, an extra pound or two is negligible. I am sure you can get quite a few pounds of polyfill in there.
If you go the cheap Wal-Mart pillow route, I would see how many you can get in there without having to severely jam them in. It is also easy having the fill in neat and easy to handle packages, ala pillows.
You obviously don't want the driver's pole vent blocked or anything touching the cone.
I'm definitely prefer the pillow route, much easier & trouble free, should I line the internal walls with something like Dacron before stuffing pillows in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WereWolf84 /t/1511560/sealed-dual-stereo-integrity-hs-24-build#post_24202836
I'm definitely prefer the pillow route, much easier & trouble free, should I line the internal walls with something like Dacron before stuffing pillows in?
Window bracing is fine, but do it the right way, shown below on the right. Most do it as pictured on the left, which uses more material, but is less effective.
Don't forget that bracing from the baffle to the back is just as important as the other panels.
Quote:
if you were me, how much would you stuffing in the 10 cubic feet box?
Damping is always required, otherwise you'll have internal reflections of above bandwidth harmonics back to the cone, resulting in higher THD. That's totally different from stuffing the cab to lower Q.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice /t/1511560/sealed-dual-stereo-integrity-hs-24-build#post_24202845
Window bracing is fine, but do it the right way, shown below on the right. Most do it as pictured on the left, which uses more material, but is less effective.
Don't forget that bracing from the baffle to the back is just as important as the other panels.
Enough to arrive at the desired Q/response.
Damping is always required, otherwise you'll have internal reflections of above bandwidth harmonics back to the cone, resulting in higher THD. That's totally different from stuffing the cab to lower Q.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice /t/1511560/sealed-dual-stereo-integrity-hs-24-build#post_24202845
Window bracing is fine, but do it the right way, shown below on the right. Most do it as pictured on the left, which uses more material, but is less effective.
Don't forget that bracing from the baffle to the back is just as important as the other panels.
Enough to arrive at the desired Q/response.
Damping is always required, otherwise you'll have internal reflections of above bandwidth harmonics back to the cone, resulting in higher THD. That's totally different from stuffing the cab to lower Q.
+1 This is exactly what I was saying above...albeit tougher to see without pics
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