The V8 Slant coaxial surround build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 41 Old 01-15-2014, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm building 6 of the diysg v8 coaxial ported speakers for my surrounds, so here's the start:

My plan:



Sweet new boards all soldered together.




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post #2 of 41 Old 01-16-2014, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I screwed together some temporary boxes for the v8s to have a listen and to break them in while I build the slanted boxes. First impression is that they have great midrange and have some nice midbass when run Direct or Stereo with a single SDX15 sealed. I think they are a little light on the hf, especially noticeable when running along with the center in 7.1 Neo-x, or DOlby PLXII music: studio. I have heard that it is a bit different coming from silk domes to these and that the domes might be overly bright to begin with. I am thinking of removing one of the resistors to see how I like it. I'll give it a week or so of listening first. Any thoughts?

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post #3 of 41 Old 01-16-2014, 10:57 AM
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d_c: I'm following your build as I'm anxious to hear the impressions of the Volt series as people are snatching them up. Just as a point of clarity from your picture, are you using Pandora as the music source by which you're basing your impressions on?
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post #4 of 41 Old 01-16-2014, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm listening to Pandora right now. I'll give a more detailed assessment when I build the correct box, listen to flac tracks, let them break in for a few more days. I mostly listen to Pandora for the variety, so that's what I'm used to for listening. I like them so far, I thought the seos12/td12m laid back, but that was coming from listening to the overly bright Focals in my truck first. I decided to build those (parts ordered!!!!). I'm comparing these v8s against the silk domes and rs180s in my Zaph ZDT right next to them, so it's apples and oranges - not fair to compare side-by-side. Anyways, back to work. I have a ton of wire to pull and get ready for the drywallers next week!

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post #5 of 41 Old 01-16-2014, 12:04 PM
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What size is that temporary box? Your internal volume looks to be a lot less than the original design. So you're tuning the box quite a bit higher which can make the midbass sound stronger.......and the highs not quite at the same level. Which is likely why you said the highs seemed a little light compared to the bass. Make sure your final design is very close to what MTG90 made up.
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post #6 of 41 Old 01-16-2014, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
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post #7 of 41 Old 01-24-2014, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post

d_c: I'm following your build as I'm anxious to hear the impressions of the Volt series as people are snatching them up. Just as a point of clarity from your picture, are you using Pandora as the music source by which you're basing your impressions on?

I wanted to get back to you on this - I had a few hours of listening with FLAC files of several different genre, and they display much better clarity of course, but the XO still needs a bit of a tweak, which MTG90 has already sorted out and given options.

Talking with MTG90 and following Sibuna's lead, I have some different resistors on the way to drop in to pull some of the attenuation out of the HF. Matt says the difference in box size doesn't matter too much there, esp since I have them crossed at 80hz. I'm building three different sized boxes to accommodate the different angles to the lp that are similar to the one in my drawing: 40 degrees for the sides - 21" x 9.5" baffle, 27 for the fronts - 16" x 9.5" baffle, and 52 for the rear - 21" x9.5" baffle. I was able to squeeze some more room out of my soffits by permanently mounting the boxes, which will make them easier to build, strengthen the soffit, allow for 3/4" ply instead of 1/2.

Also, I haven't seen the measurements, but the common theme is that the cones are capable of (if the CD can provide) off-axis response up to 1.9khz at 110 degrees, so all of my seats will be covered aside from the normal peaks and valleys from the room.
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post #8 of 41 Old 01-24-2014, 06:55 PM
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d_c, I appreciate the follow up! I'm hoping I'll be able to start building my own speakers this year to replace my polks.
It's awesome knowing that the designers are right here with us when it comes to questions and support!
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post #9 of 41 Old 01-25-2014, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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post #10 of 41 Old 01-25-2014, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post

 

I don't like how the speaker wire is soldered on the board. Tin the wire, put them through the holes, solder, and trim the excess.

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post #11 of 41 Old 01-25-2014, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I was planning on doing that, but decided to go this way so that more of the wire was in contact with the board. They are solid.

You think I should redo it? What would be the benefit? I'll do it if so.
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post #12 of 41 Old 01-25-2014, 07:20 PM
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If you run the wires down through the holes it will prevent the traces from possibly peeling off if the wires get tugged on. You do not need to worry about getting as much contact between the wires and board as possible, a good solder joint through the hole is plenty. I don't think there is any reason to redo what you already have done it will work correctly as you have it.
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post #13 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok good, I'm not worried about them getting tugged on once installed.

You guys think I should add additional bracing or is this sufficient? This one is 21x10x11.5

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post #14 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post

Ok good, I'm not worried about them getting tugged on once installed.

Unless they have strain relief, I would still do it. The barrel (via) is a much better structure for wire. As much as you like to think, that copper on the fiberglass (FR4 typically) isn't a strong a bond as you think. In short, it is a chemical process in which the copper is deposited into the porous gaps. It isn't glue. It doesn't take much for the bond to fail. With low cost PCB's the bond is pretty poor. For small SMT components it is good enough. For anything of mass (like a wire), not so much.

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #15 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 04:11 PM
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The vias/holes are really small. Drill the hole to match your wire, then solder through the hole as discussed.

Mike
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post #16 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I'll drill them out and resolder to make it right. I'll forever worry about it if I don't. The rest of the cabinets are coming together nicely, and I should have the rest of them assembled and filled with bondo tomorrow.
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post #17 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 06:14 PM
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Really cool build Doug!

I like this idea a lot. You have me considering something similar.

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post #18 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

The vias/holes are really small. Drill the hole to match your wire, then solder through the hole as discussed.

Mike

Hopefully Eric is keeping upon this thread. The holes are "small" for the PCB made. They should be made a bit bigger to handle more gauges of wire. Since there is quite a bit of room maybe 3 via sizes would be good.
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Alright, I'll drill them out and resolder to make it right. I'll forever worry about it if I don't. The rest of the cabinets are coming together nicely, and I should have the rest of them assembled and filled with bondo tomorrow.

Feels like inception...plant a seed in your mind and watch it grow. biggrin.gif


Really looking forward to your results!

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #19 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 08:21 PM
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What gauge wire are you using?
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post #20 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 09:02 PM
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I'm using 12g, but I strip it down to 16g so I can make a smaller hole in the printed circuit board than what 12g would require.
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post #21 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 11:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I used 16g too. Erich knows about the hole size issue too, so we should figure out what size hole would work better and just let him know since this always an ongoing project. I'm sure 16g would be plenty for the xo, but that's what I used for my surrounds since that's what I had in the spool.
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post #22 of 41 Old 01-27-2014, 11:51 PM - Thread Starter
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post #23 of 41 Old 01-28-2014, 03:23 PM
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3/32" sounds good to me!
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post #24 of 41 Old 01-29-2014, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Time for terminal holes, bondo, and primer. I'll shoot the final coats when they are installed since I can spray them when I spray the primer and finish on the trim.

Looks like diysg shipped me a trio of SEOS12 and DNA360 yesterday!



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post #25 of 41 Old 01-29-2014, 10:26 AM
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Looking sharp!

I must be guilty because people say I am guilty because they chose to call me guilty because they refuse to see the truth. Much easier to be part of the mob..
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post #26 of 41 Old 01-29-2014, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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post #27 of 41 Old 01-29-2014, 06:17 PM
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Doug,

Those enclosures look AWESOME!

Really nice workmanship. cool.gif
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post #28 of 41 Old 01-30-2014, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you! I wish I didn't have to rush though it. Drywallers finally are showing up Monday so I'm cramming. I thought I was ready, but I found quite a few things on the list.
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post #29 of 41 Old 01-30-2014, 11:16 AM
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Nice work!
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post #30 of 41 Old 01-31-2014, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks man! All boxes are installed and I'm building crossovers today over the weekend. I hope to make some measurements with the different resistors when the drywallers are working Monday.





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