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post #91 of 128 Old 04-19-2014, 05:51 AM
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Data-bass output numbers are 2m RMS.  The other measurement standard I see often listed is 1M peak.  The difference between these two measurements is 9 dB.  So from WinISD to data-bass, is the difference 6 dB or 9 dB?  I know it is just a modeling program and won't be exact, but I have a hard time making a fair comparison between WinISD and data-bass without knowing if it is a 6 or 9 dB swing.  I guess I could try modeling some drivers they tested but the power used on some of the tests is pretty ridiculous, much higher than most would realistically use with the common DIY amps.


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post #92 of 128 Old 04-19-2014, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear123 View Post

Data-bass output numbers are 2m RMS.  The other measurement standard I see often listed is 1M peak.  The difference between these two measurements is 9 dB.  So from WinISD to data-bass, is the difference 6 dB or 9 dB?  I know it is just a modeling program and won't be exact, but I have a hard time making a fair comparison between WinISD and data-bass without knowing if it is a 6 or 9 dB swing.  I guess I could try modeling some drivers they tested but the power used on some of the tests is pretty ridiculous, much higher than most would realistically use with the common DIY amps.
Nobody other than marketing shysters use peak for anything. WinISD gives a 1m/1w half space result, which is 6dB higher than a 2m/1w result.

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post #93 of 128 Old 07-07-2014, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys it's been awhile since I updated this thread. Progress stalled quite a bit on the subwoofer build because I had to get my polebarn done. Well, I've finally finished and installed everything. So now I need some help again.

I have NO IDEA what to do from here. I have my iNuke mounted and wired up with speakon cables to each martysub. I have 1 sub going to output A abd 1 sub to output B. Then I have the pre-out from my AVR going to input A on the iNuke. How do I setup the iNuke? For now I just want a very basic setup to prove that everything works. I'm not concerned about tuning.

Also, I've altered the speaker config settings in my AVR (Denon AVR790) such that all speakers are set to "small" and I put in a crossover frequency of 80 Hz. I haven't gone through the MultiEQ yet because I'm not sure what order to do all of this.

Can someone hold my hand? Please and thank you.
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post #94 of 128 Old 07-07-2014, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash11 View Post
Hey guys it's been awhile since I updated this thread. Progress stalled quite a bit on the subwoofer build because I had to get my polebarn done. Well, I've finally finished and installed everything. So now I need some help again.

I have NO IDEA what to do from here. I have my iNuke mounted and wired up with speakon cables to each martysub. I have 1 sub going to output A abd 1 sub to output B. Then I have the pre-out from my AVR going to input A on the iNuke. How do I setup the iNuke? For now I just want a very basic setup to prove that everything works. I'm not concerned about tuning.

Also, I've altered the speaker config settings in my AVR (Denon AVR790) such that all speakers are set to "small" and I put in a crossover frequency of 80 Hz. I haven't gone through the MultiEQ yet because I'm not sure what order to do all of this.

Can someone hold my hand? Please and thank you.
So you have sound but need eq help ? I had the same denon avr. Don't use any eq from it. Only use denon for lpf at 80.
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post #95 of 128 Old 07-07-2014, 06:31 PM
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hook up the amp and download the dsp from berhringer. run a hp at 20hz 48db. set a boost at 20 by 3db. q of .7, and you are done. CRANK IT UP.
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post #96 of 128 Old 07-07-2014, 06:33 PM
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oh, there are other ways to hp. this is just 1 way off my head to hp below 20hz.
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post #97 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 04:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm not even sure I have sound coming out properly yet. Let's start with configuration stuff. I'm using the Behringer software on my laptop connected to the amp. When I switch between different modes: stereo, bi-amp, bridge, etc.... the only mode that gives me output on both channels A and B is bridge. I have a single input into channel A from the pre-out on my receiver. I have each sub on a separate output channel, A and B, using Speakon cables that are wired with the 1+ and 1- terminals. I even tried changing the terminals on the 2nd sub (channel B) to use the 2+ and 2- pair, but I was only able to get output from both channels by using the bridge mode. Is this correct? I'm using a couple Dayton HO 18's.

Also, as far as my receiver goes, there are 2 settings I'm not sure of. There's a LPF value in the subwoofer menu, then there's a crossover value. Right now I've actually changed both of them to 250 Hz. Are you guys saying that I should change the LPF to 80, but leave the crossover up at 250? Also, is this affected by the capabilities of my other speakers? I ask because I'm not sure my LCR's are capable of handling everything above 80 Hz, and I'm wondering if I may want to let the sub go higher? Or is this pointless for a couple Dayton 18's?
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post #98 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash11 View Post
I'm not even sure I have sound coming out properly yet. Let's start with configuration stuff. I'm using the Behringer software on my laptop connected to the amp. When I switch between different modes: stereo, bi-amp, bridge, etc.... the only mode that gives me output on both channels A and B is bridge. I have a single input into channel A from the pre-out on my receiver. I have each sub on a separate output channel, A and B, using Speakon cables that are wired with the 1+ and 1- terminals. I even tried changing the terminals on the 2nd sub (channel B) to use the 2+ and 2- pair, but I was only able to get output from both channels by using the bridge mode. Is this correct? I'm using a couple Dayton HO 18's.

Also, as far as my receiver goes, there are 2 settings I'm not sure of. There's a LPF value in the subwoofer menu, then there's a crossover value. Right now I've actually changed both of them to 250 Hz. Are you guys saying that I should change the LPF to 80, but leave the crossover up at 250? Also, is this affected by the capabilities of my other speakers? I ask because I'm not sure my LCR's are capable of handling everything above 80 Hz, and I'm wondering if I may want to let the sub go higher? Or is this pointless for a couple Dayton 18's?
I have an iNuke3000 (non Dsp) amplifier powering my two full sized MartySubs, (with another iNuke3000 on the way to power the two additional full sized MartySubs that I have just finished), and what I do is use a "Y" splitter to give my iNuke two wires into each input. You might try that, and/or also set the switch on the back to the duel mono setting. The later should give you two outputs from one input. The former should be easy, cheap, and probably a lot less trouble!


As far as your Denon AVR-790 subwoofer settings go. Does it give you the option of using both a LPF & a crossover for the sub? If so, that is strange, but, I would set both to 80hz.
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post #99 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
I have an iNuke3000 (non Dsp) amplifier powering my two full sized MartySubs, (with another iNuke3000 on the way to power the two additional full sized MartySubs that I have just finished), and what I do is use a "Y" splitter to give my iNuke two wires into each input. You might try that, and/or also set the switch on the back to the duel mono setting. The later should give you two outputs from one input. The former should be easy, cheap, and probably a lot less trouble!


As far as your Denon AVR-790 subwoofer settings go. Does it give you the option of using both a LPF & a crossover for the sub? If so, that is strange, but, I would set both to 80hz.
So are you saying the iNuke has no ability to take in a single input and amplify the signal to both outputs? If that's the case, then which is preferable: splitting the input signal or just using the other pair of pins on the speakon connector on output A. Or is there an issue with resistance?

Also, regarding my denon receiver, yes it has both options. I don't know if they are both active at the same time though. Philosophically speaking, wouldn't it be best to let the receiver send as much of the frequency spectrum as it can to the iNuke, and let the iNuke decide where to cut out and what to amplify? Or is it the case that by sending more of the spectrum to the iNuke, that I get less of the spectrum going to the remaining speakers?
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post #100 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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So in digging around for more info on setting up an iNuke, I came across a few people who swear by using the amp in bridged mode only because the power output is much higher. Is this an assumption that I missed? Is everyone using their iNukes in bridged mode to power Martysubs? If so, then that means I have to make some wiring changes.

I've also read that supposedly in "Bi-Amp 1" mode you can have a single input that is sent through to both outputs. Is this a good option for a couple 4 ohm passive subwoofers?

I'm trying to figure out the best way to configure my system first, before I go buying a microphone and becoming a tuning fool in the basement.
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post #101 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 11:11 AM
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post #102 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash11 View Post
So are you saying the iNuke has no ability to take in a single input and amplify the signal to both outputs? If that's the case, then which is preferable: splitting the input signal or just using the other pair of pins on the speakon connector on output A. Or is there an issue with resistance?

Also, regarding my denon receiver, yes it has both options. I don't know if they are both active at the same time though. Philosophically speaking, wouldn't it be best to let the receiver send as much of the frequency spectrum as it can to the iNuke, and let the iNuke decide where to cut out and what to amplify? Or is it the case that by sending more of the spectrum to the iNuke, that I get less of the spectrum going to the remaining speakers?
you put the switch on "mono" mode and it takes a single input on channel A or C and outputs it on A and B or C and D respectively.
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post #103 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bassment View Post
4 ohm bridge mode is the same power as stereo 2 ohm.
...according to the manual. I'm asking if this is indeed the case. Also, my only options are 4 ohms stereo or 8 ohms bridge. Right?

Also, where is this switch of which you speak? I'm not at home right now to check, but I can't recall seeing any switch, and the pictures provided on Behringer's website don't show one either. Is it inside the case?
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post #104 of 128 Old 07-08-2014, 12:03 PM
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Oh I thought you had the 6000 not the 3000dsp, it doesn't have switches. I'm only familiar with the 6000 so I'm not sure how you can do it. You have dual 4 ohm subs? Then yea 4 ohm stereo or 8 ohm bridged.

It's 2 ohm stereo 4 ohm bridged in real life and in the manual. Bridged mode is just both channels across the same load with inverted signals, so 4 ohm/2 = 2 ohm each. The pictures show it.
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post #105 of 128 Old 07-09-2014, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm still not clear about my setup guys. Can anyone guide me here? Should I be splitting the input signal? Or wire my subs in series and go with a 8 ohms load in bridged mode?
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post #106 of 128 Old 07-09-2014, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Crash11 View Post
So are you saying the iNuke has no ability to take in a single input and amplify the signal to both outputs?
It can do this. And can eq the channels separately. Plenty of help available in the iNuke threads (which you're going to want to see about replacing the noisy stock fan [no biggie]).

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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #107 of 128 Old 07-09-2014, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
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It can do this. And can eq the channels separately. Plenty of help available in the iNuke threads (which you're going to want to see about replacing the noisy stock fan [no biggie]).
So it can do it, but you won't tell me? Can you point me to one of these iNuke threads? I don't see any in the amp section, and the search mechanism on this site doesn't work real well.

Also, no need for fan replacement. I have the amp outside my theater.
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post #108 of 128 Old 07-09-2014, 02:07 PM
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Can't help you with iNuke but try a search this way https://www.google.com/#q=inuke+offi...e:avsforum.com

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post #109 of 128 Old 07-09-2014, 04:08 PM
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If that was the full sized MartySub then the ports should have been 3" tall by 36" deep, right? Or did you build a MartyCube? I hope those specs on the port being 3" by 22.5" by 36" that LTD02 have me are correct because I just built four new enclosures that I am putting a nice finish on for my four HO18's and if the port specs are wrong then I am going to straight up cry!
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post #110 of 128 Old 07-09-2014, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Crash11 View Post
So it can do it, but you won't tell me?
So, now that I'm home , I can tell you that I have one output from my receiver going to a Y-cable with inputs into both A and B of the iNuke. In stereo mode, the same signal goes to both subs. In dual mode, you can eq them separately (using the PC software and a USB cable), which I haven't tried. I used 1+ and 1- for one sub and 2+ and 2- for the other (My "I don't DIY" build).
And, thanks to you, I now know that my fan hasn't been working.
Now that's a REALLY quiet mod.
Michael

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post #111 of 128 Old 07-14-2014, 06:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok I'm thoroughly confused by this iNuke. The documentation makes no sense, and this software isn't helping me. I took a screenshot of my latest setup. I ran the iNuke in Bridged mode with the subs wired in series (8 ohm load). It's my understanding that in Bridged mode both internal amps are combined to form a single amp. Doesn't that mean 1 output and 1 input? I don't understand why I'm getting identical signals to both outputs (see screenshot). Also, with my setup wired the way it is, I actually get more output (on the iNuke software meters) in Dual Mono mode, even though the theoretical max power is much much lower. Lastly, before I made this wiring switch to Bridged mode, I had it setup with a single input and 2 separate outputs (4 ohms each). With it setup this way, I get the exact same readings on the meters for both outputs.

ALl of this was done with the gain knob for input A at the exact midpoint. Anyone have any ideas?
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post #112 of 128 Old 07-14-2014, 06:19 PM
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Most people run gain knob from 3'o'clock to full.
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post #113 of 128 Old 07-14-2014, 06:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Most people run gain knob from 3'o'clock to full.
Yeah I'll get to that eventually. Right now I'm just trying to confirm that I have the best setup I can have before I start messing with actual power output.

Is there anyone around here that really understand these iNukes?
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post #114 of 128 Old 07-14-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Crash11 View Post
Is there anyone around here that really understand these iNukes?
Probably not, but we can still try to help.

Am I correct in seeing that you have only one input into the iNuke? I think you should start with a Y-adapter and inputs into both A and B (yes, even if it's the same signal).

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post #115 of 128 Old 07-15-2014, 04:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
Probably not, but we can still try to help.

Am I correct in seeing that you have only one input into the iNuke? I think you should start with a Y-adapter and inputs into both A and B (yes, even if it's the same signal).
I was trying to avoid that just because I don't have the parts on hand.

Would there be any problem with using this short cable splitter...
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
I don't want to hang a splitter off the pre-out plug on my receiver with 2 rg6 cables.

I would combine it with a couple of these...
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

Last edited by Crash11; 07-15-2014 at 04:46 AM.
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post #116 of 128 Old 07-15-2014, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash11 View Post
I was trying to avoid that just because I don't have the parts on hand.

Would there be any problem with using this short cable splitter...
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
I don't want to hang a splitter off the pre-out plug on my receiver with 2 rg6 cables.

I would combine it with a couple of these...
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
That's what I plan on doing with my 6000dsp and two subs.

My Home Theater Build: The Vortex Theater Build
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post #117 of 128 Old 07-15-2014, 06:47 AM
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Here's mine:



Yours should work fine.
I think that will go a long way towards solving the problems you've had.
Good luck.

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post #118 of 128 Old 07-15-2014, 08:29 AM
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I believe you can power both subs with only one input, if you choose "biamp 1" in the software on the "configuration" tab and if you turn off "X-over" and the low pass filter (if its on) on the "filter/crossover" tab.

Like this:

Capture.PNG

Capture2.PNG

Remember to set an appropriate high pass if you run vented subs.

Last edited by splotten; 07-15-2014 at 10:30 AM.
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post #119 of 128 Old 07-15-2014, 10:14 AM
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I look forward to trying that.
But first, I need to fix my fan!

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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #120 of 128 Old 07-16-2014, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splotten View Post
I believe you can power both subs with only one input
Yes, that works! As does my fan!
However, you lose the ability to control the two subs independently (which I need).

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