Alchemy MTM - L&R Curved Towers + Center - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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So I'm planning on making the Alchemy mtm into towers. However in their current arrangement they would be sitting nice at 56" tall (with the CD at ear level of 42"). This doesn't really bother me except that I have all of this room at the bottom of the tower not being used. If I was to change the order to TMM I could cut down the height to something more like 44" or so. What Im worried about are the ports and then of course the XO. If I leave the internal dimensions of the upper tower the same though, does it matter?

If it does, then I'll just leave them at the standard configuration.

Thanks


edit: SPEAKERS ARE DONE! Alchemy MTM - L&R Curved Towers + Center

Last edited by aaronlinkous; 06-13-2014 at 04:57 PM.
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post #2 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post

So I'm planning on making the Alchemy mtm into towers. However in their current arrangement they would be sitting nice at 56" tall (with the CD at ear level of 42"). This doesn't really bother me except that I have all of this room at the bottom of the tower not being used. If I was to change the order to TMM I could cut down the height to something more like 44" or so. What Im worried about are the ports and then of course the XO. If I leave the internal dimensions of the upper tower the same though, does it matter?

If it does, then I'll just leave them at the standard configuration.

Thanks

You have just enough room underneath the mtm to put a martysub and then build the regular alchemy biggrin.gif
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post #3 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh don't think I didn't think of doing something along those lines wink.gif Problem is I live in an apartment with neighbors that already hate me because of my current stereo (klipsch rf-52) and then my mustang biggrin.gif I've been without a sub for about 6 years so I've come accustom to it, but come August either a pair of marty or a pair of easy buttons will be build.

I played around with the idea of making something sort of like the def tech towers and having a powered 10" in the bottoms, but in the end I'd rather just save the money and put it towards the real sub build.
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post #4 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 12:15 PM
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I think the xover is designed for mtm and going tmm would not work but i could be wrong. I have a reclining sofa so my waveguide height needed is only 30". You could do a 40" tower with ten inches below with sand and just angle the front baffle . Looks like this


Six degree angle if sitting 10' back. Possibility ?
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post #5 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Not a bad idea, except that I don't know how far back my couch will be when I move.
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post #6 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post

Not a bad idea, except that I don't know how far back my couch will be when I move.

Could build it with six degrees and put height adjustable levelers


I guess you could do a regular build and put two nice levelers on the front.
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post #7 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is what Im looking at:



The front top is just a rough approx for visual purposes of the driver layout. The curved version is a tad deeper to make up for the rounded sides coming in.

I guess my main questions is the seam on the front where Erichs baffle would meet up with the bottom part -- Is this going to cause issues with laminate?

The goal is for them to look similar to:



Thanks
Aaron
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post #8 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 04:22 PM
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^^^ THE SEAM would only be a problem if he rounded the baffle which he usually does. Just request no roundover . That would be one sweet build cool.gif
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post #9 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I was definitely going to request no round over. As long as I fill and sand really well I didn't think there was going to be an issue. Now to decide if my skills are up for the challenge on the rounded sides.
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post #10 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 04:37 PM
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Its not difficult in terms of hand skill. Doing hand cut dovetails is harder. You just need to plan it well and take your time. Are you going to bend 1/8" plywood around a form ?
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post #11 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 04:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, but as far as around a form I guess I should ask: Will the internal bracing and end caps be enough to count as forms to bend around?
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post #12 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post

Yes, but as far as around a form I guess I should ask: Will the internal bracing and end caps be enough to count as forms to bend around?

Yes as long as the bracing is no further then 12" apart. When you starting this ? Got me.stoked . eek.gif
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post #13 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully soon. The only reason I wouldn't start immediately is no garage in the Pacific Northwest during the winter isn't exactly ideal. Until I figure that part out... frown.gif

My back up plan is to have my lady friend ask her father to build the internal bracing and caps and mail them to me (he's all crafty like that). The rest I could handle in little spurts on my tiny balcony.
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post #14 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 05:50 PM
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Just curious- where at in the Pacific NW?
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post #15 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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post #16 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 06:05 PM
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^^^^ dude I'm 60 minutes away from.you in Canada . Bring me some pizza and we can use my woodshop smile.gif
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post #17 of 104 Old 01-20-2014, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha! Working on the passport part still.
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post #18 of 104 Old 01-21-2014, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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So I got my speakers sold and they also wanted my receiver so I gotta buy a new one (looking at you emotiva power amps) and possibly the oppo 103 to use as my pre

Ended up selling them to a friend who I totally forgot has a small shed in her backyard so I can build them there as long as I build her a sub first and install everything
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post #19 of 104 Old 01-21-2014, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post

So I got my speakers sold and they also wanted my receiver so I gotta buy a new one (looking at you emotiva power amps) and possibly the oppo 103 to use as my pre

Ended up selling them to a friend who I totally forgot has a small shed in her backyard so I can build them there as long as I build her a sub first and install everything

Only problem with oppo as pre is it doesn't have and room correction or peq for bass management.
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post #20 of 104 Old 01-21-2014, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a feedback destroyer for subs and then I could just get a minidsp.

To be honest, Im not running any room EQ right now as my receiver (yamaha) doesn't have any. It's like 14 years old and I worked all summer for it. When I bought it brand new, the sticker on the box said "Now featuring Component Switching!"
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post #21 of 104 Old 01-22-2014, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronlinkous View Post

So I got my speakers sold and they also wanted my receiver so I gotta buy a new one (looking at you emotiva power amps) and possibly the oppo 103 to use as my pre

Ended up selling them to a friend who I totally forgot has a small shed in her backyard so I can build them there as long as I build her a sub first and install everything

I believe that Oppo generally only recommends using their BDP-95 or BDP-105 as a pre-amp connected directly to the amplifiers. I would definitely be rocking a BDP-105 or even a BDP-95 as a pre-amp if I could find a used one for a good price!
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post #22 of 104 Old 01-22-2014, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Really? Do you think it's marketing reasons or a specific reason?

The only thing I can think of is output vs input sensitivity on pro amps. I couldn't actually find the output on the 103. However I'm looking at three 2x4 minidsps unbalanced which outputs 900mv and the emotiva upa500 requires 850mv. The XPA series requires 1.1, but then I'd swap up to the balanced kits which output 2v.


I could be completely wrong though lol
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post #23 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 03:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Update!

 

Ordering 2 kits on Monday. Met with a buddy today who owns a wood working shop (completely forgot what he did for a living). So I'll be building them there. I re modeled everything with exact dimensions (taking into account dados and everything) and showed him and he approves. Got the cut sheets figured out and all the mdf will fit on one sheet (the other sheet is for the center channel that Im not building, but will go ahead and cut out now). He has hardboard, but its 3/16. This should be fine correct? Below are my cut sheets and the final layout for the bracing. Is sand really going to be needed for the bottom parts? Also, does the bracing look ok?

 

Also, since I sold my ancient yamaha as well as my speakers, I'll be getting the Emotiva UMC-200 and Emotiva UPA-500 and just run 2 channels for now and then add the other 3 later in a few months.

 

Thanks,

Aaron

 

 

 

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post #24 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 04:01 PM
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What's the 3/16 hardboard for ?

Sand isn't a must but it helps prevent tower tipping and keeps it from vibrating . Your bracing looks good , wont need bottom brace if sand is there.
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post #25 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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The hardboard is to create the curved side pieces. 

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post #26 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 04:05 PM
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What are you using for finish ?
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post #27 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Walnut Vertical Grain Veneer. Something along this color:

 

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post #28 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 08:23 PM
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Paperback or raw veneer ? That wood grain is sweet smile.gif
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post #29 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 08:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I was going to go paper backed. However, once I talked to my friend with the shop he told me has books of veneers that I could pick from. He also has a glue sprayer and finishing booth so whatever works and he suggests.

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post #30 of 104 Old 01-25-2014, 08:37 PM
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Raw is a lot tougher to work with but you don't get the paper edge. On my next build I will do all raw and learn to be more patient
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