My ported UXL-18 in 9.9cf (x2) - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 126 Old 02-19-2014, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, I ripped a few pieces of MDF at 1.5" each. Put them in the enclosure, and they seem fine. I mean, if you pull on the brace at it's center on the .75" side, it flexes a bit. But panel-to-panel lengthwise, it seems sturdy and strong. I will also glue/screw where each brace intersects with another for extra rigidity. I will use PL 3X to connect to the sides.

BTW, in addition to glue, I used these pocket hole screws to mate the double front baffles. They really helped pull the two panels together tightly.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_7368-37672-42168_0__?Ntt=42168&UserSearch=42168&productId=3306558&rpp=32
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post #62 of 126 Old 02-19-2014, 04:18 PM
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I will also glue/screw where each brace intersects with another for extra rigidity

+1 There you go! No worries about bumping in the night... We want pics! We want pics! lol

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post #63 of 126 Old 02-19-2014, 04:55 PM
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For the guys wanting to use dowel rods, a quick braid nail to the end will eliminate all concerns of them coming loose or anything else and glue the crap out of them. Just measure out where they need to go. Dowel rods will be way stronger than 1" pieces of mdf or ply or pretty much anything else if that is a concern to the builder. It takes only a few minutes to measure out the nail points.

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post #64 of 126 Old 02-22-2014, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, since I had so much scrap, I decided to just go with strips of MDF 1.5" x .75" for bracing instead of round dowels. Seems pretty solid. I used PL 3X and brad nails to attach. Man, that PL is messy, especially with the squeeze-out at the ends. I've never used it before, so I am hoping it withstands the vibrations it is about to be subjected too...biggrin.gif Here is my progress so far.






Trying to decide the sequence for the front-to-back braces. I want to attach the front baffles, but I don't think I will have room to maneuver in there. So I will probably just attach the braces first, then glue the baffles afterwards.
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post #65 of 126 Old 02-22-2014, 04:37 PM
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Your wood will break before PL gives. It's as strong as it can possible be, it would withstand a scary amount of force. To give you an example, I used 1" dowel rods, glued with PL, no nails in my living room sub, it was 5 CF 1 inch MDF front and read double baffled. I hung it from the rods to paint when I had a family issue I had to take care of and left in a hurry to catch a plane and just left it, it was only supposed to be hanging for maybe half an hour. I was gone for a week and the box just hung by 1 x 1" rod with driver in and rod through the speakon hole. When I got back home, I had assumed it would be on the floor but it was still hanging there the rod was slightly bent but the glue was fine. When I weighed the sub, it was 167 lbs.... I'd say thats pretty damn impressive from 1 dowel rob just glued to the walls of the sub and nothing else attached.

I think you'll be ok hahahaha
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post #66 of 126 Old 02-22-2014, 04:44 PM
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^^^ LOL. Sweet job Nick! you're doing us DIY'ers proud. Oh!.. Nice home!

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post #67 of 126 Old 02-22-2014, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

Your wood will break before PL gives. It's as strong as it can possible be, it would withstand a scary amount of force. To give you an example, I used 1" dowel rods, glued with PL, no nails in my living room sub, it was 5 CF 1 inch MDF front and read double baffled. I hung it from the rods to paint when I had a family issue I had to take care of and left in a hurry to catch a plane and just left it, it was only supposed to be hanging for maybe half an hour. I was gone for a week and the box just hung by 1 x 1" rod with driver in and rod through the speakon hole. When I got back home, I had assumed it would be on the floor but it was still hanging there the rod was slightly bent but the glue was fine. When I weighed the sub, it was 167 lbs.... I'd say thats pretty damn impressive from 1 dowel rob just glued to the walls of the sub and nothing else attached.

I think you'll be ok hahahaha

Wow...eek.gif Well, I guess I will stop worrying about that! I used brads and the Pl at the ends as well as at the intersection of each brace. I also popped a pocket hole screw at the intersections for good measure. I didn't want to run the risk of anything popping loose in the future.
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post #68 of 126 Old 02-22-2014, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

^^^ LOL. Sweet job Nick! you're doing us DIY'ers proud. Oh!.. Nice home!

Thanks Steve. That is actually my basement. I did everything down there by myself except for the bar. I don't have the skills, patience, or tools for finish carpentry! It took almost two years, but we are happy with it. I wish I knew what I know now about subs....I would have done a lot of things differently. I started with the idea that I would just buy one sub from a brick and mortar store. After researching that, I upgraded my idea to buying two Rythmik's. Then I graduated to the DIY forum. I now have these two 9.9cf boxes waiting for their 18 inch woofers...biggrin.gif My wife is really worried what is coming next!
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post #69 of 126 Old 02-22-2014, 05:21 PM
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Looking good Nick...smile.gif
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post #70 of 126 Old 02-22-2014, 05:38 PM
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Thanks Steve. That is actually my basement. I did everything down there by myself except for the bar. I don't have the skills, patience, or tools for finish carpentry! It took almost two years, but we are happy with it

Well I sure would be. Having a getaway like that down stairs would be awesome! You should be proud of it doing it yourself and all. Wheres the fridge, I wanna check it out? lol
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I wish I knew what I know now about subs....I would have done a lot of things differently. I started with the idea that I would just buy one sub from a brick and mortar store. After researching that, I upgraded my idea to buying two Rythmik's. Then I graduated to the DIY forum. I now have these two 9.9cf boxes waiting for their 18 inch woofers... biggrin.gif My wife is really worried what is coming next!

We all have our learning curve when it comes to subs or anything else for that matter. I've known DIY rules for some time and am still learning just how much it rules when learning more regarding how to decipher info and not just experience. Just keep your wife happy and treat her good and she'll most likely cut you plenty of slack. You're going to need it if you plan on hanging around here. smile.gif But then I have no doubt you know that.

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post #71 of 126 Old 02-25-2014, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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I just finished the second coat of Duratex.. They look pretty good....







However....

I washed and re-used the foam roller for the second coat. I must have created some kind of irregularity on the roller after I washed it because, in certain lighting, I can see a difference in the finish that is obviously from the roller. It is difficult to capture, but you can get an idea here






My wife says it is fine, but I think I am going to buy another roller, and put on another coat. Can anyone give me an idea of how much water to add to help get an orange peel texture? I added a little (maybe 2 tablespoons to a paint tray), but it still comes out like a medium sandpaper. It's ok, but I was aiming for orange peel. I'm just afraid of adding too much. Any suggestions?
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post #72 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 04:54 AM
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My wife says it is fine, but I think I am going to buy another roller, and put on another coat. Can anyone give me an idea of how much water to add to help get an orange peel texture? I added a little (maybe 2 tablespoons to a paint tray), but it still comes out like a medium sandpaper. It's ok, but I was aiming for orange peel. I'm just afraid of adding too much. Any suggestions?

Dang you're fast Nick, you're not messing around! Things are looking really good. Sorry I can't answer your question though, I never have applied Duratex myself. I did do a little search and found this though, you most likely already know but I'll post anyway.
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The Texture Coat: Creating a texture with DuraTex is simple. You can accomplish this with our textured roller, a sea
sponge faux finishing roller, HVLP pressure pot sprayer or a hopper gun. This texture coat will be applied differently
than the protective coat and it will be important for you to test the application method to be sure it will create the desired
texture. Test this out on a piece of flat cardboard before you apply the DuraTex to your cabinet. OR… look at the DuraTex
Leather Look instructions online.
The texture roller creates a nice even texture unless you apply the product too heavily in which case it will create a very
aggressive texture. A medium coat rather than a heavy coat will give a better result, and you might find that rolling the
texture out in a thinner layer will produce the texture design you like. Experiment to find an application technique that
creates the texture you desire. Adding a small amount of water to the finish coat or base coat will result in a smoother
surface texture.
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post #73 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

My wife says it is fine, but I think I am going to buy another roller, and put on another coat. Can anyone give me an idea of how much water to add to help get an orange peel texture? I added a little (maybe 2 tablespoons to a paint tray), but it still comes out like a medium sandpaper. It's ok, but I was aiming for orange peel. I'm just afraid of adding too much. Any suggestions?

fr8...I think I achieved a decent "orange-peel" by applying the DuraTex to the surface, allowing it to set just a bit, and then going over it with the roller again (don't load the roller with any DuraTex this second go-over) to "knock it down" a little bit. To figure out the open time for when to do this, and how hard to press to achieve the texture I wanted, I took some small MDF scraps and did a little bit on each and tried waiting different periods of time on each and applied different pressure with some too until I saw what I wanted...then rinse. lather, repeat for the actual cabinets. Worked very well. When you are ready for the actual cabs with your final coat, try this method on the bottoms first to perfect your technique and make sure you are happy...and then move to all other sides.

Best to you...smile.gif
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post #74 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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fr8...I think I achieved a decent "orange-peel" by applying the DuraTex to the surface, allowing it to set just a bit, and then going over it with the roller again (don't load the roller with any DuraTex this second go-over) to "knock it down" a little bit. To figure out the open time for when to do this, and how hard to press to achieve the texture I wanted, I took some small MDF scraps and did a little bit on each and tried waiting different periods of time on each and applied different pressure with some too until I saw what I wanted...then rinse. lather, repeat for the actual cabinets. Worked very well. When you are ready for the actual cabs with your final coat, try this method on the bottoms first to perfect your technique and make sure you are happy...and then move to all other sides.

Best to you...smile.gif

Thanks Blah. I'll give that a try this afternoon.
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post #75 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 03:34 PM
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A secret I don't like to share is things work out better if you dress for the occasion. I'll loan you my suit if you like? )


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post #76 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Trust me. No one wants to see me in a form-fitting suit like that....tongue.gif
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Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

Trust me. No one wants to see me in a form-fitting suit like that....tongue.gif

LOL.. Ok just thought I would try to help, give you a edge anyway. smile.gif It's a little stretched out I admit.

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post #78 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Fiberfill question. I am putting three pillows in each enclosure. Is there any science to suggest where exactly to place them inside? I have the two on either side running front to back - midway up the wall. The third is running up and down right in the center. Is this ok? Any suggestions?





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post #79 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 04:48 PM
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Do you need pillows?
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post #80 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dogger99 View Post

Do you need pillows?

Check out this study...

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79

I believe fiberfill pillows are the cheapest option. I have read other threads where people use eggcrate foam or even fiberglass insulation.
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post #81 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

Check out this study...

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79

I believe fiberfill pillows are the cheapest option. I have read other threads where people use eggcrate foam or even fiberglass insulation.

You're losing a lot of output doing that.
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post #82 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 09:07 PM
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Hey, no fair. You gotta tell us the bestest way smile.gif
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post #83 of 126 Old 02-26-2014, 10:27 PM
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OK, time's up.
And the answer is....
Trial and error!
We have a winnah!

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79 Thanks for the link fr8doggr!
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post #84 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

A secret I don't like to share is things work out better if you dress for the occasion. I'll loan you my suit if you like? )

I never in a million years thought I'd run across a Second Life men's fashion ad in here, that was quite random indeed.

[/off-topic]
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post #85 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by antisuck View Post

I never in a million years thought I'd run across a Second Life men's fashion ad in here, that was quite random indeed.

[/off-topic]

Yeah I ran across that in Google under Duratex. Thing is though after posting, I think another member posted it in another thread awhile back thinking about it?? It is a joke of a pic though. Ok back to reg programming..

As to the question above, I would start out none to one and then work from there if called for.

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post #86 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 08:45 AM
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I wouldnt put pillows in a vented design. Maybe line the sides with some foam but stuffing pillows in there may plug things up.

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post #87 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 08:58 AM
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I put some loose poly fill towards the bottom of my enclosure away from the back of the woofer and port opening. I am hoping to just break up any panel to panel resonance. Nowhere near the port or woofer though.

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post #88 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 08:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, one of my UXL-18s arrived today. As this is my first sub, I was awestruck by how heavy and well-built this thing is. I was eagerly anticipating coming home from kids activities tonight to mount it in one of my enclosures. However, my enthusiasm has now been overtaken by major disappointment. Using zip-ties, I tried to lower the sub into the enclosure, only to find that it is too wide for my cutout! I have my own notes and emails from two members on this forum who confirmed that the outside diameter was listed as 46.2cm, as of the first week of February. But sometime between then and now, the outside diameter was changed to 46.9cm. If I take the outer rubber gasket off, it just fits in there, but I don't like the look without the rubber gasket. It may not seem like much, but shaving off 0.7cm and keeping it perfectly round is going to be nearly impossible since I don't have any precision tools. Keep in mind, this is a double front baffle that has already been permanently attached and finished. And I have to do it for both enclosures. I built my enclosure based on specs listed on the website. To have them changed without any warning or notification is disappointing. I'm sure I will eventually get over this disappointment, but not tonight.

Does anyone have any suggestions on options to shave the outer baffle down, while maintaining a perfect circular shape?
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post #89 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 09:09 PM
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Bummer! So your cutout is fine but your recess isn't large enough now. Since it's so close, I suggest some course 60 grit (or close) sandpaper and grind it out a little. Won't take as long as you think.

EDIT> Hold it! You have a router, do you still have your cutout rounds?

Another option would be to cut the gasket and just affix the top layer to your driver. I dunno, just trying to think of a way not to damage your nice Duratex work. You would still need some gasket material for the bottom if you didn't use the bottom portion of your provided gasket though. I know I'm reaching.
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post #90 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I still have the cutouts.
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