My ported UXL-18 in 9.9cf (x2) - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

Yes, I still have the cutouts.

I edited so re reply how you would like to move forward. You can fix your Duratex in a small way and it would be fine correct? If you want to think about it, no prob.

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post #92 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

Well, one of my UXL-18s arrived today. As this is my first sub, I was awestruck by how heavy and well-built this thing is. I was eagerly anticipating coming home from kids activities tonight to mount it in one of my enclosures. However, my enthusiasm has now been overtaken by major disappointment. Using zip-ties, I tried to lower the sub into the enclosure, only to find that it is too wide for my cutout! I have my own notes and emails from two members on this forum who confirmed that the outside diameter was listed as 46.2cm, as of the first week of February. But sometime between then and now, the outside diameter was changed to 46.9cm. If I take the outer rubber gasket off, it barley fits in there, but I don't like the look without the rubber gasket. It may not seem like much, but shaving off 0.7cm and keeping it perfectly round is going to be nearly impossible since I don't have any precision tools. Keep in mind, this is a double front baffle that has already been permanently attached and finished. And I have to do it for both enclosures. To say that I am disappointed and frustrated is a massive understatement. I built my enclosure based on specs listed on the website. To have them changed without any warning or notification seems unprofessional and discourteous. I'm sure I will eventually get over this disappointment, but not tonight.

Does anyone have any suggestions on options to shave the outer baffle down, while maintaining a perfect circular shape?

What I would do is cut the gasket right down the middle, so you will have the part that overlaps the driver but the part that would go underneath is gone, and drop a few dabs of silicone or goop or similar and just place it on top of the basket, it should fit fine if you don't have that extra bit that would go between the sides... Personally I never ever use those gaskets but thats just me.

Also are you shure the hole is right? I have 3 empty boxes here and all are the old 46.2cm and the new batch UXL fits perfect with gasket.....
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post #93 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 08:45 PM
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here's what i said with a pic


see through green is insert you make. blue is area that needs routing, red is actual opening
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post #94 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post

What I would do is cut the gasket right down the middle, so you will have the part that overlaps the driver but the part that would go underneath is gone, and drop a few dabs of silicone or goop or similar and just place it on top of the basket, it should fit fine if you don't have that extra bit that would go between the sides... Personally I never ever use those gaskets but thats just me.

Also are you shure the hole is right? I have 3 empty boxes here and all are the old 46.2cm and the new batch UXL fits perfect with gasket.....

Yeah that was a option I suggested. Seems like it would be the easiest to me. Cutting out the recess sure would be easier if the baffle were still off though as apposed to the way it is.

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post #95 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 09:39 PM
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fr8doggr, I'm not sure where you are at with this problem but here is my sincere attempt to help.

 

First, part of the fun and challenge of DIY is overcoming problems, finding solutions, etc.  Take a breath, it will all end well. 

 

There are two general strategies I would use to enlarge the opening.  You are going to lose the finish with both approaches and will need to repaint.  Not good, but not so bad.

 

1. You will only need a router and a rabbeting bit for the first strategy.  If you don't have a router, you can beg, borrow or rent one.  Just get a rabbeting bit of the correct size to enlarge the opening the desired amount.  If you can use this approach, I can help you find the appropriate bit size and describe how to use it correctly.  It will depend on the size of the existing shelf or rabbet as to whether or not a bit is available and/or financially feasible.

 

2. If you can find someone to cut the appropriate sized opening into a similarly sized piece of MDF as your front baffle, you can clamp this to the front of your box over the existing hole and then use a top bearing pattern bit to exactly replicate the correctly sized hole in your box.

 

Both of these approaches are really simple and relatively inexpensive if you have a wood-working buddy.  

 

I know how bad it sucks to be so close to the finish line and then encounter something unexpected, but this will only slow you down a bit.  If you were local, it could have been repaired in the time it took me to write this.

 

Good luck!!

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post #96 of 126 Old 02-27-2014, 11:35 PM
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^^^ The thing is, we know he already cut out the cutout with his router. He doesn't need to go out and buy another bit if he decides to go that route, that's why I originally asked Nick if he still had his cut-out disks. He would have to wedge the cutout disk in place but not have to go out and buy another bit.

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post #97 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 12:09 AM
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Lol, this is an easy fix.

nail or screw a piece of ply across the center of the cutout from behind, put the cutout you already cut in there, centered/aligned perfectly. if you cant get your nail gun behind it, use long nails and get it from the front. Screws will work too, but you'll have to fill the holes more. If you don't want to mess up the front, you can just glue the piece from behind and cut it out when done.

now you can just cut the area you need again from the same location. When done, knock the piece loose that you nailed in.
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post #98 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Lol, this is an easy fix.

nail or screw a piece of ply across the center of the cutout from behind, put the cutout you already cut in there, centered/aligned perfectly. if you cant get your nail gun behind it, use long nails and get it from the front. Screws will work too, but you'll have to fill the holes more. If you don't want to mess up the front, you can just glue the piece from behind and cut it out when done.

now you can just cut the area you need again from the same location. When done, knock the piece loose that you nailed in.

^^ +1, or just wedge the dang cutout in over square.
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post #99 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

^^ +1, or just wedge the dang cutout in over square.

Yeah, even better, since you already have the stepped cutout, the piece will sit in flat. Just stuff some stuff around the sides of it to keep it centered and you're good to go.
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post #100 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 01:05 AM
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If you find yourself at a loss Nick, we have a certain bit we have to pull out every now and then. We only use it as a last resort though.
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post #101 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 05:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry for the whining last night. A night's sleep has helped ease my initial disappointment.

Thank you guys for all the suggestions. First, N8, my opening is true at 46.2cm. The driver itself fits, but no way is that gasket getting in there! It is just too thick.

I don't own a lot of router bits. The routers I have are old hand-me-downs. I am going to go out this morning and look at the suggested rabbet bits. I don't need to shave a whole lot off. That may be my easiest option. If I can't find a rabbet bit to fit my needs, I will try the other method of overlaying the original cutout in there and use a straight bit to widen the opening. I have plenty of Duratex left over, so I can touch it up easily.

Once again, thank you guys for the help. I'll post my progress later today if I make progress.
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post #102 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 08:09 AM
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It doesn't look as good but I always go a little extra on account of ease getting the driver in and out. In most situations a guy wouldn't need to worry about that though. If I showed a closeup of my avatar you would see or any other sub I've built for that matter. Anyway you have a plan now but I/we totally understand the frustration. It seems like a little something always comes up no matter how well a guy plans.

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post #103 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 11:58 AM
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when i cutout my SI's, i had a issue with getting them in there with the gasket but i was able to kind of turn the gasket under the lip of the driver and manipulate it into place. couldnt be any tighter of a fit but it went in there even though it didnt look like it was going to




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post #104 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Success!! It took the afternoon, but I was successful at widening the outer baffle to accommodate the driver with the rubber gasket. At first, I found a $60 rabbet bit set with different sized bearings that would have done the job. But I went back through my hand-me-down bits and found a workable solution. I used a 1/2" spade bit (my term) to notch out a little grove on the bottom 1/2" of the baffle - using the top 1/4" as the template. Then a quick pass with a straight bit that has a bottom bearing to knock off the top 1/4" that was left. Then a final quick pass with a 3/8" round-over bit. The driver and gasket drop in there fine now. It is tight, but it loos great. After I clean up all the dust, I will apply another coat of Duratex, and I will be good to go!
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post #105 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 02:03 PM
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Congrats Nick!! smile.gif
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post #106 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 02:27 PM
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post #107 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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You mean...as in...What will Nick screw up next??? rolleyes.gif
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post #108 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 04:59 PM
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Lol.. No I meant that in a good way/complement, you didn't screw up. I've cut out baffles in the past and pondered if things are going to work out including having to throw baffles away because of cutting to large with the driver on hand. Welcome to DIY wink.gif You just have to improvise a bit with what you have on hand and make it work out, or sometimes buy whatever to move forward.
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post #109 of 126 Old 02-28-2014, 05:17 PM
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Nick, that was a pretty clever use for existing bits.  Congrats!

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post #110 of 126 Old 03-01-2014, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for all the suggestions. No shortage of experience on this forum...smile.gif I am so happy that I was able to resolve the issue without building another cabinet. I loaded the driver in the cabinet this morning. And because we all love pics.....


my sub before....



My sub after....






I will attempt to hook it up later today or tomorrow
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post #111 of 126 Old 03-01-2014, 08:35 AM
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my sub before.... My sub after....

Me thinks you're going to notice a little difference smile.gif

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post #112 of 126 Old 03-01-2014, 12:13 PM
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Cant wait to hear your impressions!
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post #113 of 126 Old 03-03-2014, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Earthquake!!! Well, I hooked my UXL up to my INuke 6000, and dialed in some preliminary settings - thanks Laugsbach! Turned it on, and the first thing I noticed was the hum coming from the sub. But I was prepared with a cheater plug - hum disappeared! Then I started playing some music. But it was obvious I had some kind of handshake issue with my Pioneer AVR, because I was hardly getting any bass out of the sub. But after tinkering with it a while, I finally hit the right button that unleashed the UXL. Again, as this is my first true sub, I'm running out of adjectives to describe the experience. Even with my conservative settings, this thing is impressive. My best description is that it is a breathtaking, moving experience. A chest thumping, pant ruffling, couch vibrating experience. Things were rattling and shaking all over the house - even at just 1 clip light! Of coarse, music sounded much fuller. But where this sub really shines is down low. I playing a 20hz signal, and you would think that the mother ship just landed in my basement! Also, last night we watched "Gravity". Sandra Bullock's heartbeat can be "felt" throughout the whole movie, plus there were a couple intense scenes that went really low that allowed the UXL to demonstrate just how awesome it is for HT. I can see where this thing would be destructive if you weren't careful. I am just breaking it in, so we'll keep things in check while we wait for sub #2 to arrive. I can't wait to experience two of these in my HT. I'm going to have to come up with more adjectives....biggrin.gif
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post #114 of 126 Old 03-03-2014, 09:45 AM
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So glad to hear Nick! It'll only get better with break-in and tinkering. Now you have a whole slug of movies to veiw and see what you've been missing. Better fill the fridge and bar up good. smile.gif

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post #115 of 126 Old 03-03-2014, 10:03 AM
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so we'll keep things in check while we wait for #2 to arrive.

Great feedback Nick...smile.gif

Movie #2 is...???
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post #116 of 126 Old 03-03-2014, 02:39 PM
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Gotta be War of the Worlds!...just for the bass!!!...unless you happen to be a Cruise fan, I guess.
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post #117 of 126 Old 03-03-2014, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

Earthquake!!! Well, I hooked my UXL up to my INuke 6000, and dialed in some preliminary settings - thanks Laugsbach! Turned it on, and the first thing I noticed was the hum coming from the sub. But I was prepared with a cheater plug - hum disappeared! Then I started playing some music. But it was obvious I had some kind of handshake issue with my Pioneer AVR, because I was hardly getting any bass out of the sub. But after tinkering with it a while, I finally hit the right button that unleashed the UXL. Again, as this is my first true sub, I'm running out of adjectives to describe the experience. Even with my conservative settings, this thing is impressive. My best description is that it is a breathtaking, moving experience. A chest thumping, pant ruffling, couch vibrating experience. Things were rattling and shaking all over the house - even at just 1 clip light! Of coarse, music sounded much fuller. But where this sub really shines is down low. I playing a 20hz signal, and you would think that the mother ship just landed in my basement! Also, last night we watched "Gravity". Sandra Bullock's heartbeat can be "felt" throughout the whole movie, plus there were a couple intense scenes that went really low that allowed the UXL to demonstrate just how awesome it is for HT. I can see where this thing would be destructive if you weren't careful. I am just breaking it in, so we'll keep things in check while we wait for sub #2 to arrive. I can't wait to experience two of these in my HT. I'm going to have to come up with more adjectives....biggrin.gif


I have four coming...........all sealed.  My room is on TJI's so tactile feel is a no brainer.  Not a ported guy, but could you give me the size cabs you used so I can play your with your boxes on winisd? I could check the first part of thread, but dimensions do change........................

 

I'm hoping I have enough bass once drivers arrive..............I just hope my wife's kitchen can handle it.  With the S2 I sold, no such issues in kitchen.............not so sure now.

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post #118 of 126 Old 03-03-2014, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Not a ported guy, but could you give me the size cabs you used so I can play your with your boxes on winisd? I could check the first part of thread, but dimensions do change........................

Double, the size of my cabinets did not change at all. It is all listed in the first post of this thread. The ONLY difference was that I used 1.5" x .75" MDF strips instead of 1" dowels, but the bracing volume should be the about the same. Feel free to ask if you have any specific questions - I'm happy to share....smile.gif Four UXLs are going to blow you away!!!!

Today, just for fun, I ran a one minute 20hz sine wave at varying volume levels. I could really feel the air moving out of the vents at 1 clip light. At 2 clip lights, it would easily blow out a candle.....biggrin.gif I didn't push it any further as I am still breaking it in. Plus, I don't think the drywall could take much more...tongue.gif
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post #119 of 126 Old 03-03-2014, 05:50 PM
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Double, the size of my cabinets did not change at all. It is all listed in the first post of this thread. The ONLY difference was that I used 1.5" x .75" MDF strips instead of 1" dowels, but the bracing volume should be the about the same. Feel free to ask if you have any specific questions - I'm happy to share....smile.gif Four UXLs are going to blow you away!!!!

Today, just for fun, I ran a one minute 20hz sine wave at varying volume levels. I could really feel the air moving out of the vents at 1 clip light. At 2 clip lights, it would easily blow out a candle.....biggrin.gif I didn't push it any further as I am still breaking it in. Plus, I don't think the drywall could take much more...tongue.gif

 

Thanks.............I'll look at your first page............

 

BTW, looks like you have a unique hair blow dryer!  :cool:

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post #120 of 126 Old 03-11-2014, 08:04 AM
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Hey Nick, any new updates out there? Sub two might go a little slower since you're playing with sub one??

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