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-   -   My ported UXL-18 in 9.9cf (x2) (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1516043-my-ported-uxl-18-9-9cf-x2.html)

fr8doggr 02-04-2014 07:38 PM

Rather than hijack another thread, I started this one to document my dual UXL-18 builds. Many thanks to members such as LTD, Steve nn, Laugsbach, Dominguez, Chalugadp, Martycool, Atabea, Scott S., Bill F., and others, for not only their advice, but their time and efforts to expand my education on subwoofers. Hopefully I can help others by sharing my experiences. So, here goes...

Due to space and spouse constraints, I could not build a Marty sub. I needed a design that would be more square-like, but not too tall either. I wanted to get as close as I could to the performance of the Marty. So this is what we came up with...

Ported, front firing subwoofer
28W x 28D x 34H
9.9 cubic feet net each (after driver, bracing, and port – double front baffle).
Tuned to 17hz.
Driver – UXL-18 (.243cf)
Bracing: approx. 600 cu/inches using 1” round dowels
Vent: 2.5”H x 25”W x 46.6” long with 15% WinISD adjustment for slot port that gives a total effective length of around 55” and a tuning frequency of 17hz. (should be lower with added stuffing).
Vent: 4022 cu/in (3.25” x 26.5 x 46.7 accounts for slot board and slot braces)
Note, this design is not handi-panel friendly. You will have to cut three 4 x 8 sheets for each enclosure...

Graphs below are with 1200 watts:






steve nn 02-04-2014 09:19 PM

Hey Nick! It was a honor and a pleasure being a small part of the process. Now we get to have fun kicking back and looking at all the awesome pics you’re going to post. smile.gif

chalugadp 02-04-2014 09:43 PM

Yup , luv da pics eek.gif
Start my build next week. :sly:

LTD02 02-04-2014 09:51 PM

should perform quite well.

Martycool007 02-05-2014 04:14 AM

Nick, that is a great looking driver/enclosure combination! I can completely understand the desire for deep bass with lots of output, like the MartySub will give you, but at the same time, needing something a little more wife friendly.

The original MartySub was designed for folks that basically had zero size, space, or WAF prerequisite's, and for getting the most possible SPL and extension out of the Dayton HO18 or SI 18HT. I think your design is much more WAF friendly, and gives a smaller foot print. It should definitely rock with that UXL-18 driver!

laugsbach 02-05-2014 07:35 AM

Subscribed...smile.gif

Congrats Nick!!

fr8doggr 02-05-2014 01:04 PM

Can someone please check my calculations on this slot port? It needs to be 46.6 inches long. It has a 90 degree bend in it.

Bottom of cabinet is 28", so subtracting the rear panel leaves the bottom slot at 27.25" from front to back panel.
I have read I need to make all my measurements at the midpoint of the slot. Since the slot is 2.5", I subtract 1.25" from the actual bottom slot (27.25"). That leaves 26".
Now the slot going up the back needs to be 20.6". But again, I have to take the measurement from the midpoint of the slot, which would actually extend 1.25" down into the bottom slot opening. That would leave the back panel only 19.35", correct? (this is very hard to verbalize!). I hope someone understands what I just wrote...smile.gif

LTD02 02-05-2014 01:20 PM

you got it.

also, if it ends up being off by an inch or two...won't matter at the size/tuning that you are working with. exact precision isn't required.

steve nn 02-05-2014 01:34 PM

In what LTD just described is how you can gain back that little extra space we spoke of if you’re interested. (I think you already might have since I noticed you bumped up your correction factor up just a little)? It won’t make any negligible difference though.

fr8doggr 02-05-2014 02:37 PM

Thanks guys! Steve, I did indeed increase the correction factor to the 15% value to help gain back that volume I lost. Nice catch...wink.gif

Also, I have never used a router before. Can you tell me what size roundover bit is typically used on .75" MDF? This will be finished with Duratex. Should I round over all the edges, or just the front? Do I need to use a larger high-horsepower router for that job, or can I get buy with just using a trim router? HFT has both kinds on sale.

steve nn 02-05-2014 03:00 PM

Read all 9 pages and call me in the morning http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/routing/round-over-bits-basics/?catref=wd135&page=1 smile.gif

Seriously though.. Read through and see if you can come up with what you would like? I like 3/8 myself. Depending how much you plan on using your router, you might want to spend more or just go with something as simple as the Ryobi with plunge. It will take 1/2 and 1/4 shank. 1/2 is nicer to work with, more stout! Be carful with screws or brads, you need to think ahead where your going to router.

fr8doggr 02-05-2014 03:11 PM

I hadn't thought of that. I have a brad nailer, and I also bought the spax screws listed on the Marty thread. Those would really come into play if I went with a larger roundover! Time to re-think the nails and screws.

blah450 02-05-2014 03:40 PM

fr8...3/8 round-over all around is nice...and maybe go to a little larger on the front face? Of course, that would be another bit.

When you round over the edges (knock 'em down), you make the exterior corner joints a little less susceptible to losing some DuraTex if it is bumped.
So there is a little practical benefit to it as well.

Routering will send shavings/dust all over the place unless you are hooked up to a vac...mask is recommended if in confined space.

fr8doggr 02-05-2014 03:58 PM

Thanks Blah. I am cutting panels right now. You aren't kidding about the dust!

steve nn 02-05-2014 04:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

Thanks Blah. I am cutting panels right now. You aren't kidding about the dust!

LOL Wait until he has to vacuum his garage shelves, mower, floor, on and on. wink.gif

chalugadp 02-05-2014 04:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

I hadn't thought of that. I have a brad nailer, and I also bought the spax screws listed on the Marty thread. Those would really come into play if I went with a larger roundover! Time to re-think the nails and screws.

you can still use screws but you have to move them from center a bit and angle them slightly. I go with a bit smaller roundover when I am using screws/nails. More like 1/4".

steve nn 02-05-2014 04:44 PM

This might help.. http://www.acetoolonline.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/838.jpg

EDIT> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-4-Piece-Roundover-Router-Bit-Set-A25RS31/100671743?N=5yc1vZc24r#specifications

dominguez1 02-05-2014 05:21 PM

Lookin' good Fr8dogg! Look forward to this build!

 

-Dom


fr8doggr 02-05-2014 06:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

LOL Wait until he has to vacuum his garage shelves, mower, floor, on and on. wink.gif

Unfortunately, this useful post came about 2 hours too late!!! I thought the dust would be localized to the general cutting area. Man was I wrong. That stuff is everywhere now...eek.gif

blah450 02-05-2014 06:41 PM

ummmm....yea....vac.wink.gif

dictator92 02-05-2014 07:02 PM

9.99 net volume for both drivers? So basically 5cubes net after sub displacement per sub?

fr8doggr 02-05-2014 07:08 PM

No, two separate enclosures. Each 9.9 CF.

dictator92 02-05-2014 08:28 PM

Whats gross volume? These uxl's really like big boxes it seems.

fr8doggr 02-05-2014 09:00 PM

13.2 CF gross

steve nn 02-06-2014 01:50 AM

Quote:
fr8> I thought the dust would be localized to the general cutting area. Man was I wrong. That stuff is everywhere now... eek.gif

That’s one of the downfalls of MDF lol. When you're doing your round over you’ll appreciate it being much less susceptible to chipping though. If it’s a option, you can do your routering right outside the garage door (with it closed/down) and then bring the panel or project back in. If you're close to your neighbor, it brings up the issue of dust settling on their car and driveway though. One way or another, MDF dust is some bad...

fr8doggr 02-09-2014 04:08 PM

Panels are all cut. With no access to a table saw, I used a 60" fence as a guide for my circular saw. Measured everything twice. Cuts came out great!

Today, I routered all of my panels, except for the exterior slot ports. I'll wait to do those until the panels are all glued up. I used a 3/8" bit for the exterior panels. I used a 1/2" bit on the interior slot panel - both at the bend, and at the top of the back slot panel to cut down on any possible turbulence. I'll try to cut the baffles tomorrow.




chalugadp 02-09-2014 05:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by fr8doggr View Post

Panels are all cut. With no access to a table saw, I used a 60" fence as a guide for my circular saw. Measured everything twice. Cuts came out great!

Today, I routered all of my panels, except for the exterior slot ports. I'll wait to do those until the panels are all glued up. I used a 3/8" bit for the exterior panels. I used a 1/2" bit on the interior slot panel - both at the bend, and at the top of the back slot panel to cut down on any possible turbulence. I'll try to cut the baffles tomorrow.




Dude you need a flatpack ! tongue.gif:p:p:p

LTD02 02-09-2014 08:16 PM

smartazz. :-)

steve nn 02-10-2014 12:46 AM

Burrr that looks cold. Here we are sitting in a nice warm room and Nick is out building a sub in the snow.. now that's DIY dedication.

laugsbach 02-10-2014 06:12 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

...now that's DIY dedication.

I'll say....cool.gif

Crack on Nick...drivers should start shipping next week! smile.gif


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