8x 18" LMS 5400 Ultras Sealed to 27 Cube 15hz Ported Build - Page 21 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #601 of 614 Old 02-23-2017, 04:31 PM
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*peeks behind speaker*

oh, what's this?



Why are there two connections?

let's see where they go....

A wild stack of hypex amps appears











6 Hypex NC400s for the front stage, fully active, RME Fireface UFX+ audio interface, using Brutefir for processing. I'm using autoformers for 12db padding and 100uf caps for protection on the HF sections



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I documented a lot more of it in this thread:
Full active JBL linear phase front stage journey
I feel like I should have known this....or I must have forgot, somehow. Ugh. I'll definitely check this out....again, of course.

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Seriously though, that 5308 is beefcake. 240w or so into 4 ohms. It got the job done. It weighs like 70 lbs, big transformer in it.
Yeah.

Yeah.

Cool story, bro.

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Anyway, re: the riser... It's tricky to have something with enough support, but remain decoupled from the floor while having the crowsons effective and not being too large. I have some ideas, I'll likely start a thread with some of them sketched out later to get some feedback. I want to minimize the height and obtrusiveness, but want the effect to still be good. It's going to be tricky. I'm willing to test a few different designs as well.

Wish you could come over for a quick demo of the riser and see how you think it compares. Otherwise....I guess you or someone else has to build one.
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post #602 of 614 Old 02-23-2017, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I feel like I should have known this....or I must have forgot, somehow. Ugh. I'll definitely check this out....again, of course.



Yeah.

Yeah.

Cool story, bro.




Wish you could come over for a quick demo of the riser and see how you think it compares. Otherwise....I guess you or someone else has to build one.
Ugh, I know. How big of a difference did it make for you? You have any details on it? pics?


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post #603 of 614 Old 02-23-2017, 04:52 PM
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Well I went from absolutely no riser to a subwoofer riser. It was a YYYYYUUUUUGGGGGEEEEEE upgrade in tactile sensation.

I got to demo both nearfield and Crowson's for the first time over at @carp 's place two years ago and that demo sold me on Crowson's. After the fact I built the subriser (had two extra RLp18's on hand, made it "easy") and all I could compare it to was it was like a perfect hybrid of both a good Buttkicker install and a good Crowson install. It had the natural feel and nuance of the Crowson but could also be damn right brutal like a Buttkicker. I felt like it was the best of both worlds although a compromise in itself too.

The build was an obvious choice as I had two spare 18's I wanted to do something with. So for someone else they would have to buy drivers. Then they need to power them. As for pure tactile sensation, this is rather inefficient both in cost, size and power requirements. However the choices are vast. Instead of a TT device, you pick a driver of choice. The performance is up to you. That part is kinda cool, I think. Then the riser takes up space. This can be a huge problem for some people. For example, we joke but @lukeamdman genuinely sounded interested in trying but he has a severe height restriction in his room. For 18's, my riser is about 1ft tall.

Not too many details about it. The construction is 2x8's all around with 3/4" Home Depot "quality" plywood for a top and bottom and one single 2x4 going down the middle (short, length-wise). That's it. Well....sorry, and the extra MDF baffles. That was only a requirement to account for the mounting depth of the 18's. Otherwise they are not required at all. There are pictures and the same details in the link in my sig.

So between this, nearfield and TT's.... they all have their pro's and con's. I think they all are deserving of the application and have their strengths in certain areas. Although I feel the Crowson's are the best overall, I love the riser system. It's just nuts and very effective with ULF material.
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post #604 of 614 Old 02-23-2017, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I went from absolutely no riser to a subwoofer riser. It was a YYYYYUUUUUGGGGGEEEEEE upgrade in tactile sensation.

I got to demo both nearfield and Crowson's for the first time over at @carp 's place two years ago and that demo sold me on Crowson's. After the fact I built the subriser (had two extra RLp18's on hand, made it "easy") and all I could compare it to was it was like a perfect hybrid of both a good Buttkicker install and a good Crowson install. It had the natural feel and nuance of the Crowson but could also be damn right brutal like a Buttkicker. I felt like it was the best of both worlds although a compromise in itself too.

The build was an obvious choice as I had two spare 18's I wanted to do something with. So for someone else they would have to buy drivers. Then they need to power them. As for pure tactile sensation, this is rather inefficient both in cost, size and power requirements. However the choices are vast. Instead of a TT device, you pick a driver of choice. The performance is up to you. That part is kinda cool, I think. Then the riser takes up space. This can be a huge problem for some people. For example, we joke but @lukeamdman genuinely sounded interested in trying but he has a severe height restriction in his room. For 18's, my riser is about 1ft tall.

Not too many details about it. The construction is 2x8's all around with 3/4" Home Depot "quality" plywood for a top and bottom and one single 2x4 going down the middle (short, length-wise). That's it. Well....sorry, and the extra MDF baffles. That was only a requirement to account for the mounting depth of the 18's. Otherwise they are not required at all. There are pictures and the same details in the link in my sig.

So between this, nearfield and TT's.... they all have their pro's and con's. I think they all are deserving of the application and have their strengths in certain areas. Although I feel the Crowson's are the best overall, I love the riser system. It's just nuts and very effective with ULF material.
Ah I was just looking to do a very small riser, wasn't considering anything nearfield at the moment. I'm thinking the riser by itself won't be nearly as effective as a wood floor, given the surface area difference. I know some others have done it so when I get some time I'll do some more research and possibly testing.
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post #605 of 614 Old 02-24-2017, 09:31 AM
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Ah I was just looking to do a very small riser, wasn't considering anything nearfield at the moment. I'm thinking the riser by itself won't be nearly as effective as a wood floor, given the surface area difference. I know some others have done it so when I get some time I'll do some more research and possibly testing.
I left out the part where I tried the riser unplugged recently...lol, woops.

I'd suggest giving a "passive" riser a try too, if you're interested. Believe it or not, they add quite a bit of sensation. Even for us on slab.

Earlier this year, I was thinking stuff about the bass in my HT. Long story short, I unplugged the riser for a while. Now of course the intensity dropped but there was still a considerable amount of shake and slam from the rest of the system to provide nice feels at the seat (compared to being on the floor).

And mine is quite sturdy!! It has a middle brace even. It's a solid enclosure. Stomp on it feels solid too. Still good shake and slam at the seat. Hell yeah.

You could build yours much shorter than mine and with half the materials.
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post #606 of 614 Old 02-24-2017, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I left out the part where I tried the riser unplugged recently...lol, woops.

I'd suggest giving a "passive" riser a try too, if you're interested. Believe it or not, they add quite a bit of sensation. Even for us on slab.

Earlier this year, I was thinking stuff about the bass in my HT. Long story short, I unplugged the riser for a while. Now of course the intensity dropped but there was still a considerable amount of shake and slam from the rest of the system to provide nice feels at the seat (compared to being on the floor).

And mine is quite sturdy!! It has a middle brace even. It's a solid enclosure. Stomp on it feels solid too. Still good shake and slam at the seat. Hell yeah.

You could build yours much shorter than mine and with half the materials.
Once I'm recovered from food poisoning, going to sketch some stuff, ugh. It's always something.
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post #607 of 614 Old 03-11-2017, 08:16 AM
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Hello again,
I finally have some time to start building these enclosures for my Si ht18's as we discussed a long while ago. Just a couple of quick questions, the plywood I am looking at says common size 3/4 inch, however the actual size is stated as .703.

Do you think I will be ok using the cutsheet you have given or will it need to be recalculated?

Do you glue the two front together and then cut the speaker hole or cut each hole separately and then glue?

Knowing that my subs are not nearly as capable as yours, and the LMS are no longer available, what would you suggest for a replacement if the SIs are not up to the task once I'm finished building these.
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post #608 of 614 Old 03-11-2017, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Hello again,
I finally have some time to start building these enclosures for my Si ht18's as we discussed a long while ago. Just a couple of quick questions, the plywood I am looking at says common size 3/4 inch, however the actual size is stated as .703.

Do you think I will be ok using the cutsheet you have given or will it need to be recalculated?

Do you glue the two front together and then cut the speaker hole or cut each hole separately and then glue?

Knowing that my subs are not nearly as capable as yours, and the LMS are no longer available, what would you suggest for a replacement if the SIs are not up to the task once I'm finished building these.
I'm pretty sure the way this was put together, the only place the wood thickness comes into play is how the front baffle seats between the port brace and the side of the enclosure. Even then, it's not such a large margin to be much of an issue, just cut it a touch wider to make up for it.

For the front baffles, I cut the pieces together, then glue them, then cut the driver holes. http://www.countercultured.net/pics/ht/lmsvented might have a few more pics than in this thread.

I think the um18s could also work. Something like the HST18 or the UXL18 would also do nicely.

Keep in mind, though, that these enclosures are very heavy. Without woofers they weigh somewhere around 200lbs. You might want to make single enclosures per driver.
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post #609 of 614 Old 03-11-2017, 11:19 AM
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Yep we just got back from getting the wood, it is definitely going to be heavy but I have enough help to put them in place. I'd rather have two per enclosure like yours is setup. Going to start cutting now, Its like 90 outside, wish I had time when it was cooler.
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post #610 of 614 Old 03-11-2017, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Yep we just got back from getting the wood, it is definitely going to be heavy but I have enough help to put them in place. I'd rather have two per enclosure like yours is setup. Going to start cutting now, Its like 90 outside, wish I had time when it was cooler.
where are you Australia? lol it's like 25f here
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post #611 of 614 Old 03-12-2017, 04:01 AM
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I'm in Deltona, FL. It's been 80-90 for the past week. We finished all the cuts for the first enclosure, they are not CNC quality but they will get the job done.

These boxes will be monstrous, I don't think the pictures do them justice. Even as just cut wood you have a pretty good idea of just how big they really are. On the drawings the 3&1/2 inch port supports say to cutout from the side but the strips leftover from the 44&1/2 inch cut were right at 3&1/2 so we used those cut to length and we have some pretty good sized pieces leftover now.
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post #612 of 614 Old 03-12-2017, 07:34 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm in Deltona, FL. It's been 80-90 for the past week. We finished all the cuts for the first enclosure, they are not CNC quality but they will get the job done.

These boxes will be monstrous, I don't think the pictures do them justice. Even as just cut wood you have a pretty good idea of just how big they really are. On the drawings the 3&1/2 inch port supports say to cutout from the side but the strips leftover from the 44&1/2 inch cut were right at 3&1/2 so we used those cut to length and we have some pretty good sized pieces leftover now.
Lol, yeah, the enclosures are huge. Wait till you have one assembled. The pics really don't do justice as the wide angle lens makes everything look small. They're over 38 cubic feet of external volume. This image kind of gives you an idea of the scale. Took this when I had a plumbing leak and had to move the stack.

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post #613 of 614 Old 03-12-2017, 07:57 AM
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Looks like the forum has wised up on ported over the past few years ?
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post #614 of 614 Old 03-12-2017, 10:15 AM
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Once I'm recovered from food poisoning, going to sketch some stuff, ugh. It's always something.
I can't even imagine not having my resonator risers designed by D.E.! The front row on concrete at 12' provides great movement just from the waves but once move up on the riser seating not only does your hair and clothes move, the whole freakin chair. Mine is as sturdy as I could ever imagine building one with 16" OC stringers that have braces raising them off the concrete for air flow but spaced close enough together that the stringers couldn't flex before adding the rest of the construction.

Have you seen the plans for the DIY SMT tuned resonators or thought about using a couple of adjustable tuned resonators that are similar? I just ran across them on GS one day and thought they looked interesting for diffusion panel bases for the perimeter of my room. I don't know how a few of them coupled together would compare to a single structure in the central area of a room but might be worth looking into.
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