MartySub Flatpacks - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 08:54 AM
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Here is the martycube (5cuft/20hz) transfer function
Green= no filter
Red = standard 20Hz HPF that you have on most amps inc inukes
Grey = standard 20hz HPF with a shelf filter to shift effective HPF to 15hz


Here is net EQ


And here is the cone excursion at 600 watts power (the RMS rating of the SI 18HT)
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post #542 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 09:35 AM
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So no filter looks best to me smile.gif
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post #543 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 09:39 AM
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Thanks, I ordered the machine threaded one with the claw nut inserts but the screws are too short. I only got 1.25" and with 2 pieces of 3/4" mdf and the sub itself, I would need like 2"screws.
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post #544 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynnr View Post

So no filter looks best to me smile.gif

well, of course, but all amps have some DC blocking filter and 20hz HP is very very common. My K2 had an 8hz filter which was awesome for sealed but bad for ported. you need that filter to prevent cone overexcursion (graph 3)
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post #545 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynnr View Post

So no filter looks best to me smile.gif

I am sure ltd02 will chime in but if your sending 1100 watts to a si18 driver you want to have a hpf for protection. It only takes one bad note going to the sub to cause damage. If your sending 600 watts to the driver then that may be different.
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post #546 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 12:19 PM
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So looking at the first graph, the red line is what the inuke comes with stock? So I should be fine just setting the low lass filter to 80hz and leaving the hpf off as it will automatically do what the red line suggests?
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post #547 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 12:26 PM
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The red is what the inuke automatically does (without adding a filter). You can add a shelf filter to shift the cuttoff lower if you desire. If you are using a processor/receiver, it should have the 80hz (or whatever you choose in the menu etc) and will pass low-pass filtered signal through the sub output.
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post #548 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 12:36 PM
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Quick side question for you guys. This is going to be my first DIY project and I'm trying to plan out my cuts. I will be using .75" x 48 x 96 MDF sheets and trying to plan out my cuts. If the sheet is exactly 4ft wide should I worry about the fact that the saw may cut into that length? Meaning, if I split the sheet down the middle I most likely won't end up with two sides of EXACTLY 24". It will be just shy of that because of the blade. Should I take that into account or does it generally work out anyway in your experience? Thanks for the help in advance. 

 

I thought I would post my planned cuts, assuming it was not a problem, just in case it helps anyone else. 

 

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JpwxWxw.jpg[/IMG]

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post #549 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarrenBerry View Post

In Canada you can go to acklands-granger, tell them you work for suncor and get a box of 100 for $9. Socket head cap screws 1-1/2"

In the states use granger. Same as above but now you work for Exxonmobil.

These are machine thread so you will need t nuts or press in wood inserts. Home depot is your best bet there

Hey there...I bellieve Cessna was asking about the coarse thread screw with socket cap/head rather than the machine-threaded bolts that need a receiving nut. That is why I suggested what I did, especially with regard to the pocket screws.
He should be able to get socket-head cap bolts just about anywhere if he wants to mess around with t-nuts...I don't know, maybe he does. cessna??
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post #550 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TekkSki View Post

Quick side question for you guys. This is going to be my first DIY project and I'm trying to plan out my cuts. I will be using .75" x 48 x 96 MDF sheets and trying to plan out my cuts. If the sheet is exactly 4ft wide should I worry about the fact that the saw may cut into that length? Meaning, if I split the sheet down the middle I most likely won't end up with two sides of EXACTLY 24". It will be just shy of that because of the blade. Should I take that into account or does it generally work out anyway in your experience?

Depending on where you are getting your wood, the big box store MDF is generally 49"x97". Bring a tape measure to the store with you or borrow one of theirs to confirm. The good news is that if it's 49", you won't have to worry about the panels being undersized. The bad news is, you'll have to cut a strip off of both of them to make them exactly 24".
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post #551 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 12:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TekkSki View Post

Quick side question for you guys. This is going to be my first DIY project and I'm trying to plan out my cuts. I will be using .75" x 48 x 96 MDF sheets and trying to plan out my cuts. If the sheet is exactly 4ft wide should I worry about the fact that the saw may cut into that length? Meaning, if I split the sheet down the middle I most likely won't end up with two sides of EXACTLY 24". It will be just shy of that because of the blade. Should I take that into account or does it generally work out anyway in your experience? Thanks for the help in advance. 

I thought I would post my planned cuts, assuming it was not a problem, just in case it helps anyone else. 

[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JpwxWxw.jpg[/IMG]

I made my first martycube out of plywood that was 48 by 96. I just changed the 2' measurement to 23 7/8". then had to change a couple of other measurements too. Another reason why mdf is easier since its 49 by 97. I have always seen mdf as the 49 by 97 size.
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post #552 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 01:34 PM
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I've got some of this 16 gauge speaker wire left over, any reason I would need a larger gauge for my 1100 watts to the speakers? (this is internal to the sub wiring, so 2-3 feet of length).

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH16100SR-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire/dp/B0029HHIDY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1392931885&sr=1-3&keywords=speaker+cable


Other than that I did a dry fit last night and may will start to cut holes tonight and then start glueing tonight / this weekend! Can't wait to get see what this is gonna do!
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post #553 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 03:48 PM
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Question...

I'm trying to model a version of this ported sub. I'm trying to do a cabinet around 18" deep and make up the volume with height. I was trying to figure out the port lengths...

Plugging the Marty cube into the calculator yeilds:




My question, what vaule do you use for port width?i just subtracted out the two braces to get 22.5. I must have something wrong, becuase it's spitting out a lenght of 55 inches when tuned to 20 hertz. It looks like your ports around 40"s.

btw... I'd probably buy two flat packs if you can model one 18" deep by 24" wide by around 40" tall tuned to 17 hertz for Dayton HO's smile.gif

hope I don't come across as hijacking a thread, the Marty's are what inspired me to go ported. If I could fit one behind my screenwall I would have ordered a flat pack from you already just to avoid the mdf dust!
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post #554 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 03:53 PM
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one thing is how much "end correction factor", if any you want to bake in. that is described in the original martysub post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s#post_23711347

the other thing is the cube isn't tuned to 20hz, but closer to 21hz or so. perhaps surprisingly, that make quite a difference in port length.

if you keep the same internal cabinet volume and the same port height and the same port length, you will get the same tune as the cube.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #555 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 04:58 PM
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Thanks LTD. good read.

So if I increase the internal volume to 8 cuft but keep the port size and length the same as the Marty cube, I should effectively drop my tune to around 18hz?

Is there anything wrong with having the port bend at an 18" depth instead of 24"? anything weird that i'm missing. I've never tackled a ported build.

i'm basically just shortening the Martycube to a depth of 18", taking the height to 45" and leaving the width and lenght of the port the same to achieve a higher internal volume and a hair lower tune.
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post #556 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 05:41 PM
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Well I got mine up and running. I was expecting a lot more to be honest haha. It really doesn't sound much if any better than the jl audio 10" w7 in my basement. I might have something wired wrong who knows.

I believe I did 1+ red 2+ black the whole way through and connected the spare +&- on the sub together so I think everything is correctly hooked up.

Maybe it just needs time to break in? Or maybe I have my inuke set up incorrectly?

I have the volume on my receiver up a lot an there just inst a TON of bass... It is definitely there and sounds good but I have a feeling it should be better. I am hitting the red light for a split second on the lows and the amp is basically cranked all the way up... I can't really turn the receiver up much more as the volume from my l/c/R's are plenty high already and my ears can't take much more from them I just wish the bass was beefier while playing at a respectable volume from my mains.
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post #557 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 05:45 PM
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If you went from +on one voicecoil to -on the other and then -&+ to the amp then you are running in series and if its a d4 you are running it in 8ohn on the amp which wasn't too much power if I remember right. You are starting to worry me, I am almost done with mine and I am expecting to be patching broken drywall when I crank it up.
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post #558 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 06:06 PM
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Its a d4. When I book up the inuke to the computer should I switch it to bridge mode on the setup page? Would that make a difference?
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post #559 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 06:11 PM
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You got me there I have not set up my inuke yet. If you do then it should raise the wattage output to one channel. You would have to look at the back and see where to plug in the sub. BTW I might be completely wrong here so I would wait until someone else with more knowledge like chaluga or ltd chime in before you blow up your amp with my info.
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post #560 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynnr View Post

Its a d4. When I book up the inuke to the computer should I switch it to bridge mode on the setup page? Would that make a difference?

yes, doubles the power ! ( I am pretty sure)
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post #561 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynnr View Post

Well I got mine up and running. I was expecting a lot more to be honest haha. It really doesn't sound much if any better than the jl audio 10" w7 in my basement. I might have something wired wrong who knows.

I believe I did 1+ red 2+ black the whole way through and connected the spare +&- on the sub together so I think everything is correctly hooked up.

Maybe it just needs time to break in? Or maybe I have my inuke set up incorrectly?

I have the volume on my receiver up a lot an there just inst a TON of bass... It is definitely there and sounds good but I have a feeling it should be better. I am hitting the red light for a split second on the lows and the amp is basically cranked all the way up... I can't really turn the receiver up much more as the volume from my l/c/R's are plenty high already and my ears can't take much more from them I just wish the bass was beefier while playing at a respectable volume from my mains.

that wiring seems off.
For my d4 I hooked up 1+red 2+black and left the other wires blank. Then in bridge mode channel A. I think you have it wrong but need ltd02 to confirm
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post #562 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Just another couple of things to remember about how good a sub is,

1) needs to be in right location in room
2) needs to be eq'd properly
3) needs to be wired up right

If all three of the above are met the martycube will thunder. My room is over 3000sqft and you can hear the bass with my front door shut at the curb 100ft away. With the front door open you can hear a song clearly . Not feel the bass from 100ft but hear it well.
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post #563 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Just another couple of things to remember about how good a sub is,

1) needs to be in right location in room
2) needs to be eq'd properly
3) needs to be wired up right

If all three of the above are met the martycube will thunder. My room is over 3000sqft and you can hear the bass with my front door shut at the curb 100ft away. With the front door open you can hear a song clearly . Not feel the bass from 100ft but hear it well.

3000sqft room? Son you have been holding out on us. If that is one room, what is the rest of your palatial home like?
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post #564 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cessna1466u View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Just another couple of things to remember about how good a sub is,

1) needs to be in right location in room
2) needs to be eq'd properly
3) needs to be wired up right

If all three of the above are met the martycube will thunder. My room is over 3000sqft and you can hear the bass with my front door shut at the curb 100ft away. With the front door open you can hear a song clearly . Not feel the bass from 100ft but hear it well.

3000sqft room? Son you have been holding out on us. If that is one room, what is the rest of your palatial home like?
That includes height. L x w x h. Space for bass to fill up. I meant cuft.
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post #565 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 08:10 PM
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Does your inuke have both sets of lights lighting up?  (left and right sides)

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post #566 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 08:11 PM
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Pretty sure Chaluga means cubed ft smile.gif
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post #567 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

That includes height. L x w x h. Space for bass to fill up. I meant cuft.
300'x10'x1'? SWEEET!
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post #568 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 08:16 PM
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Sounds like Flynn just needs to run the inuke bridged to get the 1100w at 8 ohm?
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post #569 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynnr View Post

Does your inuke have both sets of lights lighting up?  (left and right sides)

Yes. You can have all 1100 watts come from one channel or 550 from each. I have the latter.
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post #570 of 2576 Old 02-20-2014, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RexST View Post

Sounds like Flynn just needs to run the inuke bridged to get the 1100w at 8 ohm?

Yup :beer:
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