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post #721 of 2576 Old 02-23-2014, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDust58 View Post

well, i just wired the sub to 2+ and 2- for channel B - I can't get sound, so maybe the amp is set up wrong?

I did a quick search.. I only have one input, and want the two subs out on A and B... can't get anything out of channel B though, even if I switch the inputs!! grrrr

Recap what driver are you using and how much wattage are you trying to get ?
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post #722 of 2576 Old 02-23-2014, 08:18 PM
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Hmmm call of the mob, it was my bad (figures) so I tried a few different settings, but the amp doesn't like being turned on while plugged into the USB of the PC... So while I tried to change settings the clip lights would just go crazy....

Then I made matters worse by switching my wire...

Basically my debug was

Does each driver work
does each cable work
does each amp output work (by switching the input)

and eventually I *think* I have it figure out now where I'm getting the same out of both... will confirm more later
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post #723 of 2576 Old 02-23-2014, 08:55 PM
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AH HA!!! Figured out my #1 issue that I had.. the A and B "gain" knobs are not for the output, they are the input gains....??? Well, basically I would turn channel A down, and then channel B up and feel the sub - well, it didn't work because it was input A that I turned down.... so then I got nothing out of both drivers, turning channel A up gives output on both A and B....... I do notice, when I put my input to B, then I don't get any output, regardless of the gain settings....


So, to drive my 2 subs, with 1 input I have my signal going into Channel A (input) and the amp set to bi-amp. Then the gain for A sets the gain for both drivers (even though they are on separate outputs) and life is good... watched a bit of "Rise of the Guardians" and then flipped over to Ghetto Gospel by 2 pac. The outputs were not noticeable to the ear, just to the touch, to make sure the drivers were working and seemed to be in phase.

Will play with it more at lunch :-)
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post #724 of 2576 Old 02-23-2014, 10:06 PM
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How loud are the fans on the iNUKE NU3000DSP? I really need the amp to stay fairly quiet.I have my boards pre-cut and trying to  make some decisions: some have suggested to me that the crown xl1000 may be the better way to go as they are more reliable and quiet. Any thoughts? I don't believe that the Crown has a DSP either. It seems that the dual 4ohm speakers are sold out but everyone is just buying the dual 2ohm anyway right? Run them at 4ohm to the amp? What is the si18 rated at RMS wise anyway? Seems like many of you are throwing around the 1,100w number? Thanks for your input ahead of time.

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post #725 of 2576 Old 02-23-2014, 10:24 PM
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I did the fan mod to the 3000dsp. It was about as loud as my Xbox fan was. After the simple mod, I have to put my ear to it to hear it. The mod cost me about $20 and its worth it. I also have the D2 subs and according to SI website it is a 600watts RMS sub, but like you said some have thrown 1K plus to it with no problems. Get the 3000 with the dsp and do the fan mod, you will be happy. This is the fan I used.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/no80nf34cfm.html
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post #726 of 2576 Old 02-23-2014, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TekkSki View Post

How loud are the fans on the iNUKE NU3000DSP? I really need the amp to stay fairly quiet.I have my boards pre-cut and trying to  make some decisions: some have suggested to me that the crown xl1000 may be the better way to go as they are more reliable and quiet. Any thoughts? I don't believe that the Crown has a DSP either. It seems that the dual 4ohm speakers are sold out but everyone is just buying the dual 2ohm anyway right? Run them at 4ohm to the amp? What is the si18 rated at RMS wise anyway? Seems like many of you are throwing around the 1,100w number? Thanks for your input ahead of time.

Yes running them at 4ohm.
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post #727 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 07:34 AM
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I have my inuke inside a shelf of my tv stand and although the fan does get loud I can say that I don't notice it during movies because it only gets loud when pumping out serious bass which usually means the mains are pumping out high volume too. I don't think I will do a fan mod. If some of you are worried is it likely that you may not notice the noise and if you do the fan mod is pretty easy compared to using the DSP haha.
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post #728 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cessna1466u View Post

I did the fan mod to the 3000dsp. It was about as loud as my Xbox fan was. After the simple mod, I have to put my ear to it to hear it. The mod cost me about $20 and its worth it. I also have the D2 subs and according to SI website it is a 600watts RMS sub, but like you said some have thrown 1K plus to it with no problems. Get the 3000 with the dsp and do the fan mod, you will be happy. This is the fan I used.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/no80nf34cfm.html

 

600w RMS is interesting. I wonder about using the 3000dsp and run two subs at 900w RMS a channel :) Now I'm just dreaming! Seems like the amp is overpowered for this setup. Or is it just me?

 

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Originally Posted by cessna1466u View Post


Yes running them at 4ohm.

I'm also wondering if there would be any benefit in using the http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472 with a 900w RMS rating. I'm learning that RMS is not the only thing to look at but would the Dayton outperform the SI 18 more reliably? I know there are graphs on here for the Dayton but I apologize I don't quite know how it all relates in real world terms. I have always stuck to RMS and it has served me fairly well. Thanks in advance again.

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post #729 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 08:28 AM
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I really don't like graphs, I really, really don't like graphs and don't understand them. I look at a graph and see lines and numbers but that doesn't translate to which sub is better, at least not in my eyes. I know they are important and people here know what they mean and go by them. I trust those people because I see that because of what those graphs say they made their choices. So with that said I asked them what their thoughts where and most of them pointed me to the SI subs. So I ordered 2 of them. WOW!!! These things are beautiful. They are extremely well made and so far I have not heard any bad things about them, except for that they are going away.

As far as the 600-900 watts, I wouldn't let that persuade you. As some have mentioned you can throw a lot more than 600 watts to these. Now I was told that there is a Dayton sub that is the HO I think that might be better than this one, but its about $100 more and wasn't available when I was ready to buy mine.

I was worried that the 3000 was NOT going to be enough power for these, since everyone was getting the D4 subs and running them at 2ohms to get more power out of the 3000dsp. I was assured by a trusted person on here that the 3000 was going to be good.

You sound like me when I started this adventure. So I will tell you what I was told. Make the Plunge! Get the SI D2 and the 3000dsp. Don't wait on the subs, they are going fast.
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post #730 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 10:15 AM
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Question about EQ? I have Denon AVR 4311CI with Audyssey xt32...do I still need to worry about EQ on sub amp?
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post #731 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Question about EQ? I have Denon AVR 4311CI with Audyssey xt32...do I still need to worry about EQ on sub amp?

The audyssey will do a good job but it doesn't let you customize the sub the way the dsp on an inuke would. If you simply want the sub with flat response the xt32 does well. If you like to bump up or down certain frequencies then dsp is better. To me its so cheap to just get dsp with amp i would.
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post #732 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I made a jig today to cut the circles. Pretty basic but its accurate
nuhyre6e.jpg

This size is for si18 . The uxl18 is slightly smaller so may need to put a different notch into it. Going to take it home tonight and see how it fits my si18 .
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post #733 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I made a jig today to cut the circles. Pretty basic but its accurate
nuhyre6e.jpg

This size is for si18 . The uxl18 is slightly smaller so may need to put a different notch into it. Going to take it home tonight and see how it fits my si18 .

I used a rotozip for my baffle and I'll just say im glad the woofer hides it. Mine is also flush with the baffle not recessed like yours. Pretty much I should have ordered your flat pack...
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post #734 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I made a jig today to cut the circles. Pretty basic but its accurate
nuhyre6e.jpg

This size is for si18 . The uxl18 is slightly smaller so may need to put a different notch into it. Going to take it home tonight and see how it fits my si18 .

Love that MDF dust, its every where in my garage. I noticed you don't have a plunger router on there, do you just slide the router down the center pin until it makes a starter hole?
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post #735 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cessna1466u View Post

Love that MDF dust, its every where in my garage. I noticed you don't have a plunger router on there, do you just slide the router down the center pin until it makes a starter hole?

The black lever on the left side of the router is the plunge setting. Will probably take 3 passes since I am using a laminate router and don't have 3 hp. I have a full size router but this laminate is so much easier to use. Way lighter.
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post #736 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 12:33 PM
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I've never used a router before...from what I see you mounted the router to the jig? Can you do that with all routers or do you need a special attachment?


Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I made a jig today to cut the circles. Pretty basic but its accurate
nuhyre6e.jpg

This size is for si18 . The uxl18 is slightly smaller so may need to put a different notch into it. Going to take it home tonight and see how it fits my si18 .
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post #737 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by splex View Post

Question about EQ? I have Denon AVR 4311CI with Audyssey xt32...do I still need to worry about EQ on sub amp?

The general rule is that if you run a ported sub, like the Marty, you'll need some type of EQ, DSP, or processor to implement a high pass filter at or just below the tuning frequency of the box to protect the driver from over excursion when it receives content below that frequency. For a sealed enclosure, the general idea is to have some kind of EQ in order to apply some level of boost to the low end to help overcome the sealed alignment's natural rolloff.
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post #738 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 01:09 PM
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I've never used a router before...from what I see you mounted the router to the jig? Can you do that with all routers or do you need a special attachment?

Where are you located?
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post #739 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I've never used a router before...from what I see you mounted the router to the jig? Can you do that with all routers or do you need a special attachment?

Most routers will have the base attached to the bottom by four screws. Take the machine screws out, remove plastic bottom plate and then install your jig. Need to countersink holes on bottom of jig so their inset. Once you have the jig made it takes less then 5 minutes to swap it out.
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post #740 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Most routers will have the base attached to the bottom by four screws. Take the machine screws out, remove plastic bottom plate and then install your jig. Need to countersink holes on bottom of jig so their inset. Once you have the jig made it takes less then 5 minutes to swap it out.

What he said, also some router manufacturers have circle cutting jigs that screw right only the router or you can buy a universal one like the Milescraft one at Lowes. I have that one and it takes a bit of getting used to. I don't recommend it.
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post #741 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What he said, also some router manufacturers have circle cutting jigs that screw right only the router or you can buy a universal one like the Milescraft one at Lowes. I have that one and it takes a bit of getting used to. I don't recommend it.
I know many have bought the jasper jig but the jig I made took 20 minutes. Nothing special. Once you get the size right with the pin your set.
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post #742 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 01:22 PM
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Thanks for the info i always wanted a router, i'll have to put it on my wish list...in the middle of doing my basement and it's costing me a fortching


Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Most routers will have the base attached to the bottom by four screws. Take the machine screws out, remove plastic bottom plate and then install your jig. Need to countersink holes on bottom of jig so their inset. Once you have the jig made it takes less then 5 minutes to swap it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cessna1466u View Post

What he said, also some router manufacturers have circle cutting jigs that screw right only the router or you can buy a universal one like the Milescraft one at Lowes. I have that one and it takes a bit of getting used to. I don't recommend it.
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post #743 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 01:32 PM
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I see now that you are in Ontario, sorry I thought if you where close you could borrow my circle cutter. As far as homemade jigs,they are the best. Cheap and perfect for the job "job" need. Not a universal one that "might" work for you. I have many of those types of jigs that I use on a daily basis.




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post #744 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 01:42 PM
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Looks like your fully equipped...thanks for the offer ....


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I see now that you are in Ontario, sorry I thought if you where close you could borrow my circle cutter. As far as homemade jigs,they are the best. Cheap and perfect for the job "job" need. Not a universal one that "might" work for you. I have many of those types of jigs that I use on a daily basis.




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post #745 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 03:04 PM
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I think I might have a problem. My table saw didn't come with that warning.


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post #746 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 03:42 PM
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Yes Steve, its a very important sticker. There is another one on the other side of the fence that says "Disregard any safety decals, this table saw may be used as a router table, toy storage, standing platform when reaching for objects, glueing table, storage for christmas ornaments, etc..." I added a leave to the ends so it is now about 6' wid:De and perfect as a work bench, etc.
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post #747 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 03:46 PM
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^^^ LOL

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post #748 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I made a jig today to cut the circles. Pretty basic but its accurate
nuhyre6e.jpg

This size is for si18 . The uxl18 is slightly smaller so may need to put a different notch into it. Going to take it home tonight and see how it fits my si18 .

You think that would work with the plywood we're using?

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post #749 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I made a jig today to cut the circles. Pretty basic but its accurate
nuhyre6e.jpg

This size is for si18 . The uxl18 is slightly smaller so may need to put a different notch into it. Going to take it home tonight and see how it fits my si18 .

You think that would work with the plywood we're using?
Yup
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post #750 of 2576 Old 02-24-2014, 07:23 PM
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Personally I'd way rather have a plywood mounting panel than MDF, I like working with MFD but I hate screwing anything into it.

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