i went back and double checked the measurements and tried to draw everything to scale.
assumed to be constructed using 0.75" mdf or something similar. first pic is finished solid. second picture is with front panel as removable baffle held in place with magnets. third picture highlights the boards in different colors in order to show the butt joints (where the panels meet). the purple line is the vertical brace in the back of the cab. the light purple brace is a square brace with a round cutout just like the baffle to allow airflow through it. chaluga's sketchup will make it clear if it is not. red, green, and blue boards are all 24" x 24" panels. the back, the internal slot boards, and the baffle are all 24" wide boards, just cut to different heights.
same thing but side view. triple baffle. first layer driver mounts to. second layer has large cutout and goes around the driver. third layer is the removable baffle. how you do the baffle is up to you. easiest would be simple double baffle with front mount driver. again, it is up to you. third picture shows boards again highlighted with different colors.
frequency response with high pass filter engaged. 1db of eq applied to compensate. essentially this is the max output that you can get with about 1100 watts of power and a dayton 460ho driver. of course eq could be applied to bump the low end if you wanted to a bit, but room gain tends to kick in about where this sub starts to roll off for rooms of medium size.
cone excursion is fine.
port velocity should be fine, even at max power.
i can put together more details on the measurements, but i think this should be enough to draw it up chaluga (and erich).
if something isn't clear, just ping me. I'm a little burned out (yeah, drawing all that stuff manually to the nearest 0.01" is tedious!), so not sure how much more, if any, i'll do on this one for now.
here is how they stack up. FULL-MARTYSUB!
in green. MARTYCUBE!
2x2x2 in black. sealed sub in blue. MINI-MARTY!
will perform pretty much like the FULL-MARTYSUB!, it just has a little different form factor that makes it a slight bit more challenging build (slight). it only gives up about 1db or so around 20hz, so pretty much the same and the FULL-MARTYSUB!
for those new to all this, room gain also will be a factor and kicks in for most rooms around 30hz or so. so in real life, the rolloff won't be as steep as it appears in these charts.
also, 6db is about the increase in spl by doubling subs and power. so the from 20-30hz, the MARTYCUBE is pretty much 2:1 vs. a sealed cab and of course from about 15-20hz, the FULL-MARTYSUB! just rules them all.
i'm going to go back and point the other post to this one, so there is only one. these pictures and performance are about as accurate as i can get them. the other pics were a first sketch just to see if it was on the right track or not.
oh, and i almost forgot...