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post #2521 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

I was right in his net gain which is 3dbs for alphapie.

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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

I wasn't even sure if you had it mixed up. I just wasn't sure it was clear. SPL addition is confusing and even more confusing when trying to match power cool.gif Hopefully he'll get it one way or the other. smile.gif

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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

If the power stays the same, he will gain 3db only. If the power is cut in half. He will see no gain (in SPL). If he doubles the power somehow and adds the second sub, he'll see 6db gain.

If you have one sub running at max power and you add another sub and feed it max power, then you have increased SPL by 6db (in a perfect world). At that point there is no other way to increase SPL without adding another sub.

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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

an inuke 3000 has to be bridged cuz one channel cant put out 1400 watts

Basically, for it to be worth id need to upgrade to an inuke6000. Hmm.

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post #2522 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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3 dbs for bass is significant. For a huge increase then yes the inuke 6000 will be a help.
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post #2523 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 05:25 PM
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There are other advantages other than 3db. In general, one sub is never a good idea. Two or more are required for smooth response in room.
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post #2524 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 07:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Started the curved sealed sub build. Couple of pics
ege6ubad.jpg
yduma6uh.jpg
Use flush trim bit to get exact copies. Then tomorrow I will bend 1/8" pieces (six of them) around this mold
abavabu5.jpg

Will have pics tomorrow of finished curved sides.
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post #2525 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 07:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Looked at curvomatic and until I saw the price was pretty excited. Only worth that amount if you are doing a lot of bending.
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post #2526 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Started the curved sealed sub build. Couple of pics
ege6ubad.jpg
yduma6uh.jpg
Use flush trim bit to get exact copies. Then tomorrow I will bend 1/8" pieces (six of them) around this mold
abavabu5.jpg

Will have pics tomorrow of finished curved sides.

awesome wood working!  looking forward to seeing the progress!

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post #2527 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

an inuke 3000 has to be bridged cuz one channel cant put out 1400 watts

? Into 2 ohms it does 1500 per channel.

Delivers 2 x 1500 Watts into 2 Ohms; 2 x 900 Watts into 4 Ohms; 3000 Watts into 4 Ohms (bridge mode)
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post #2528 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post

? Into 2 ohms it does 1500 per channel.

Delivers 2 x 1500 Watts into 2 Ohms; 2 x 900 Watts into 4 Ohms; 3000 Watts into 4 Ohms (bridge mode)

Those are the manufactures specs, I think a iNuke 3000 puts out about 2200watts @ 4ohms bridge. I say that based on the fact that the 6000 version does 2200watts @ 4ohms per channel and the 6000 is basically two 3000's in a single chassis.
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post #2529 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post

? Into 2 ohms it does 1500 per channel.

Delivers 2 x 1500 Watts into 2 Ohms; 2 x 900 Watts into 4 Ohms; 3000 Watts into 4 Ohms (bridge mode)

Those are not real world specs. its more like 1100 watts instead of 1500 and 4 ohm bridged is 2200 watts. Behinger inflates there specs.
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post #2530 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

Those are the manufactures specs, I think a iNuke 3000 puts out about 2200watts @ 4ohms bridge. I say that based on the fact that the 6000 version does 2200watts @ 4ohms per channel and the 6000 is basically two 3000's in a single chassis.

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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Those are not real world specs. its more like 1100 watts instead of 1500 and 4 ohm bridged is 2200 watts. Behinger inflates there specs.


I know they are embellished, but those are the specs that most people use. Based on his post, it sounds like those are the specs he is using. I'm curious, what does the limiter (supposedly) go up to in the 3000?

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Originally Posted by AlphaPie View Post

I'm considering building a second and running them both in stereo off of a single inuke3000. Not sure how much of a change in output from running a single 460ho at 1400 watts..

It sounds like he is using one channel now and he wants to add a second using the other channel making it "stereo". So I'm "assuming" he is implying that he gets 1400 per channel. However, realistically, he would get 1100 to each sub if the ohm load is correct to maximize the power.
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post #2531 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 09:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus33 View Post


I know they are embellished, but those are the specs that most people use. Based on his post, it sounds like those are the specs he is using. I'm curious, what does the limiter (supposedly) go up to in the 3000?
It sounds like he is using one channel now and he wants to add a second using the other channel making it "stereo". So I'm "assuming" he is implying that he gets 1400 per channel. However, realistically, he would get 1100 to each sub if the ohm load is correct to maximize the power.

In stereo with single voice coil he can only get 600 watts per channel out of the inuke 3000. If he had dual voice coils he could wire it to get 1100 watts a side. The limiter for the inuke goes up to right near the full power which is 2200 watts. You could dial it in to get 2000, 1500, 1000, etc. Or 1347 watts if you like. Its very flexible.
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post #2532 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

In stereo with single voice coil he can only get 600 watts per channel out of the inuke 3000. If he had dual voice coils he could wire it to get 1100 watts a side. The limiter for the inuke goes up to right near the full power which is 2200 watts. You could dial it in to get 2000, 1500, 1000, etc. Or 1347 watts if you like. Its very flexible.


Thanks for the info!
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post #2533 of 2576 Old 04-22-2014, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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No problem, love your username "hail Zeus"
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post #2534 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 12:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Just so this jig for cutting circles with my laminate router
yhe3aqam.jpg
asy3a3a8.jpg

Going to make this tomorrow. My current jig isn't as precise as this.
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post #2535 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

In stereo with single voice coil he can only get 600 watts per channel out of the inuke 3000. If he had dual voice coils he could wire it to get 1100 watts a side. The limiter for the inuke goes up to right near the full power which is 2200 watts. You could dial it in to get 2000, 1500, 1000, etc. Or 1347 watts if you like. Its very flexible.

Does anyone know if the limiter on the inuke amps is based off of actual watts? I have the 6000dsp so if I set a limiter for 1 channel for 2200 watts am I actually getting 2200 watts or have I now limited it to 73% of 2200 watts(since that is max. watts it puts out at 4 ohms)? I guess you wouldn't set a limiter if needing 2200 watts at 4 ohms but what about if you needed 1100 watts?

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post #2536 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbw23air View Post

Does anyone know if the limiter on the inuke amps is based off of actual watts? I have the 6000dsp so if I set a limiter for 1 channel for 2200 watts am I actually getting 2200 watts or have I now limited it to 73% of 2200 watts(since that is max. watts it puts out at 4 ohms)? I guess you wouldn't set a limiter if needing 2200 watts at 4 ohms but what about if you needed 1100 watts?

Mike

93.8Vp is 1099.8 watts in 4ohm bridged mode. Thats the setting you want to use for 1100 watts. cool.gif
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post #2537 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

93.8Vp is 1099.8 watts in 4ohm bridged mode. Thats the setting you want to use for 1100 watts. cool.gif

Gotcha! Thanks

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post #2538 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 01:21 PM
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Thinking of something like this for tower build


Just an initial design. Want something on wide base with sand in it. Like the rounded top.

That would be sweet!...not sure if my skills are to that level, but if you do it, take lots of pics in case I get up the courage to try!
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post #2539 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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^^ thanks. It will be a while before I'm ready to buy. This week has been busy with martycube orders. Five orders in the last few days. Did a little more on the curved build today. Got both curved sides glued.
rupu8e8u.jpg
Tomorrow will router all pieces and should have them ready to assemble Friday.
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post #2540 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 05:11 PM
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Holy wood clamps... smile.gif
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post #2541 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

^^ thanks. It will be a while before I'm ready to buy. This week has been busy with martycube orders. Five orders in the last few days. Did a little more on the curved build today. Got both curved sides glued.
rupu8e8u.jpg
Tomorrow will router all pieces and should have them ready to assemble Friday.

Some wood working questions on curved sides on cabinets:
1. Did you steam the wood to make plywood panels follow the curved frame?
2. I don't see clamps in the center of the cabinet, how did you keep the center from creating a bubble.
3. How do you keep that round part of the clamp from denting the surface of the wood with all of that pressure on those clamps?
4. And last but now least, where do you get the clamps that are strong enough to handle that much pressure on curved cabinets without braking the clamps?

Man that is a lot of clamps! Your arms & hands must be really sore after clamping all of those clamps down on that curved surface! smile.gif
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post #2542 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troglidite View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

^^ thanks. It will be a while before I'm ready to buy. This week has been busy with martycube orders. Five orders in the last few days. Did a little more on the curved build today. Got both curved sides glued.
rupu8e8u.jpg
Tomorrow will router all pieces and should have them ready to assemble Friday.

Some wood working questions on curved sides on cabinets:
1. Did you steam the wood to make plywood panels follow the curved frame?
2. I don't see clamps in the center of the cabinet, how did you keep the center from creating a bubble.
3. How do you keep that round part of the clamp from denting the surface of the wood with all of that pressure on those clamps?
4. And last but now least, where do you get the clamps that are strong enough to handle that much pressure on curved cabinets without braking the clamps?

Man that is a lot of clamps! Your arms & hands must be really sore after clamping all of those clamps down on that curved surface! smile.gif

1) no, six pieces 1/8" thick for a total of 3/4".

2) pulls tight around mold with no bubbles.

3) not that much pressure down on wood. Can easily hold it down with hands.

4) f clamps can tighten down with tremendous pressure. They are heavy duty. I have 30 of them. I was a little tired after putting on the last one tongue.gif
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post #2543 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 08:17 PM
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post #2544 of 2576 Old 04-23-2014, 08:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, will look a lot more like a subs soon.
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post #2545 of 2576 Old 04-24-2014, 01:02 AM
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That's pretty amazing, I wish I had paid more attention in word work classes when I was at school
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post #2546 of 2576 Old 04-24-2014, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the front, bottom, and sides together. Used gorilla glue. Amazing how that stuff expands.
u9esysy5.jpg
ajape9ev.jpg
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post #2547 of 2576 Old 04-24-2014, 05:42 PM
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Remember how much we were cursing with getting that Gorilla glue all over our hands when we built my first sub, and how it wouldn't wash off because its water proof!....lol
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post #2548 of 2576 Old 04-24-2014, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Had a couple of students give me. A hand. One got some on his thumb. Fills all your mistakes tongue.gif
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post #2549 of 2576 Old 04-24-2014, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

Got the front, bottom, and sides together. Used gorilla glue. Amazing how that stuff expands.
 

 

It's really coming together nicely.  I'm intrigued by the idea of using forms myself and I'm wondering how you trimmed up the edges.  I guess I'm curious how you keep the curves symmetrical/same after trimming them.

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post #2550 of 2576 Old 04-24-2014, 09:43 PM - Thread Starter
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For the front of the curved sides I used a block plane to get a flush fit with it to the front baffle. The curve at the back was a bit more than anticipated and I needed to change the angle by 5 degrees. Tomorrow I put the back on and then the bracing and top. That just leaves the veneer work left.
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