Wood Backing for T Nut SI HT-18 Build - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 8 Old 02-10-2014, 06:37 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
cincyITguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11

All,

 

I'm using an Erich flat pack for my build.  I decided that I like the look of cap head screws, so I went about figuring out how to use them.  I also liked the option of being able  to remove the driver if I need to.  T nuts (with spikes) seem like a good solution, but as many have said before, they probably won't hold well in MDF.   An immediate thought was to use 3/8H x 1D x 1W strips of  poplar (cut down from 1x2's that I have) glued to the inside of the cabinet as solid structure for the T nuts.  Seems like it would work, but I can't find anyone having done it before, so that worries me. :)

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

 

Aaron

cincyITguy is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 Old 02-10-2014, 07:28 AM
AVS Special Member
 
steve nn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,207
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 428
I have used 3/4 ply blocks many times to beef things up. Thinking back I’ve used MDF blocks also but like the ply better. For your situation I can see the harder wood might be the better option though.. just so it doesn't split. Just be sure to stay away from these http://www.parts-express.com/1-4-20-barbed-body-insert-nuts-50-pcs--081-1096

Klipsch RB-75
Klipsch C-7
Klipsch RB-35
On-going SW management class
Denon
PS3
steve nn is offline  
post #3 of 8 Old 02-11-2014, 05:55 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Martycool007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,692
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 280 Post(s)
Liked: 172
Have you considered using birch ply instead of MDF?
Martycool007 is offline  
post #4 of 8 Old 02-15-2014, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
cincyITguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Used an Erich flat pack, so mdf. Happy to report that the glued on poplar seems to be working well.

Thanks all.
cincyITguy is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 02-15-2014, 06:54 PM
Member
 
sdaddy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: KY
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 13
You can drill and tap for your given screw size. That's how I did my 18s. You can add superglue to harden the MDF before inserting the screw. After testing on some scrap MDF, I found you can skip the tap and the superglue. Just drill a hole like you were going to tap it and the screw will displace the MDF and make a tight fit.

Sam
sdaddy is offline  
post #6 of 8 Old 02-15-2014, 07:17 PM
Advanced Member
 
andyc56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 653
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 210
Quote:
Originally Posted by cincyITguy View Post

All,

I'm using an Erich flat pack for my build.  I decided that I like the look of cap head screws, so I went about figuring out how to use them.  I also liked the option of being able  to remove the driver if I need to.  T nuts (with spikes) seem like a good solution, but as many have said before, they probably won't hold well in MDF.   An immediate thought was to use 3/8H x 1D x 1W strips of  poplar (cut down from 1x2's that I have) glued to the inside of the cabinet as solid structure for the T nuts.  Seems like it would work, but I can't find anyone having done it before, so that worries me. smile.gif

Any thoughts?

In addition to what's already been mentioned, check out this thread about fasteners for DIY. It has lots of useful tips and techniques.
andyc56 is offline  
post #7 of 8 Old 02-15-2014, 08:09 PM
AVS Special Member
 
doublewing11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Timber Country!
Posts: 3,841
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 91 Post(s)
Liked: 319
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve nn View Post

I have used 3/4 ply blocks many times to beef things up. Thinking back I’ve used MDF blocks also but like the ply better. For your situation I can see the harder wood might be the better option though.. just so it doesn't split. Just be sure to stay away from these http://www.parts-express.com/1-4-20-barbed-body-insert-nuts-50-pcs--081-1096

Do you mean these Steve?





Ohh noooo...............





Actually they work perfect..........as long as you're careful......use appropriate drill stop.......and use Gorilla Glue.....never had an issue in any of my projects. biggrin.gif
doublewing11 is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 02-15-2014, 08:31 PM
Advanced Member
 
Anthony_Gomez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: On the coast
Posts: 798
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Liked: 173
I wonder how well using a wood hardener would work (often polystyrene dissolved in solvent. used to harden dry rot).
Anthony_Gomez is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off