Help me convert my DEAD Velodyne HGS-18 to a DIY Sub - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 39 Old 02-16-2014, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Hi All DIY Junkies
I have been running a Velodyne HGS-18 High Gain Servo subwoofer for 12+ years
It recently died. I have gone through Velodyne for repairs, but the driver itself is dead.
Upon removal of the driver, I can see damage to the accordion part that it has separated from the aluminum moving part
Too expensive to repair by Velodyne.


So...the reason I am here is I want to now use the HGS-18 cabinet to make my own 18" DIY sub.
I have no experience building speakers, so I am a complete newbie
Would it better to have an external amp or buy a plate amp?
What would be the best driver to use for this cabinet?
The sealed cabinet dimensions are:
23.5" x 21.25 x 18.5"
The opening where the old driver was is just shy of 18.5" where the rim of the speaker sits

I already have purchased a JTR Captivator S2 to replace the Velodyne.
I ordered it with a Walnut veneer finish, so it will take 8 weeks to get it.
So right now, I am w/o a sub in my HT.
I would like to use this DIY project to supplement the Cap S2 and try to get a sub working during the 8 week wait.

My room is large at 29' x 21' x 8'
It is open to a 12 x 10 kitchen at the left rear of the room.

Thanks for any advice
obxdiver is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 39 Old 02-16-2014, 03:44 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East side of NW Cascades
Posts: 2,500
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Liked: 288
Put a HO-18 in it, if the existing plate amp works you shouldn't need another one.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472

Should be good enough to limp along until then.

You might have to do a small amount of routing to make it fit in the box, if it's not the perfect goldilocks diameter.
BassThatHz is online now  
post #3 of 39 Old 02-16-2014, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

Put a HO-18 in it, if the existing plate amp works you shouldn't need another one.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss460ho-4-18-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-472

Should be good enough to limp along until then.

You might have to do a small amount of routing to make it fit in the box, if it's not the perfect goldilocks diameter.
Thanks BassThatHz
Love that name
obxdiver is offline  
post #4 of 39 Old 02-16-2014, 06:26 PM
Advanced Member
 
qguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 874
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 57
If the accordion is detached is'nt that an easy fix?

Does the driver move or produce sound in a distorted way ?
qguy is offline  
post #5 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 01:37 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by qguy View Post

If the accordion is detached is'nt that an easy fix?

Does the driver move or produce sound in a distorted way ?
There is no sound at all, and the speaker terminals read "open" ohms on a multimeter
obxdiver is offline  
post #6 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 06:28 AM
Senior Member
 
dragonleepenn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

There is no sound at all, and the speaker terminals read "open" ohms on a multimeter


Note : the driver is a servo unit how well it will work is unknown with a non servo driver. However it may still work without the servo driver. The technology is somewhat different and may require some mods. Call Brian at rythmikaudio.com he may be able to help you with information as his subs are servo. He is a very nice guy and easy to talk with.




PeterV
dragonleepenn is online now  
post #7 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 12:13 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonleepenn View Post

Note : the driver is a servo unit how well it will work is unknown with a non servo driver. However it may still work without the servo driver. The technology is somewhat different and may require some mods. Call Brian at rythmikaudio.com he may be able to help you with information as his subs are servo. He is a very nice guy and easy to talk with.
PeterV


Thanks for the reply PeterV
I think I want to just go with a new 18" driver, like the Dayton, and get a new amp for it as well.
I just want to build my own sub using the old Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure
The Velodyne amp is possibly dead as well, plus, there are several wires that come off of it that go into the 18" woofer.
I assume this is the feedback loop for the servo control feature.
The 6x 1000uf capacitors have already been changed on the amp due to them being bulged on the tops and one was even split open on the top.
I will obviously try the Velo amp with the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver
So what would be a good amp for this Dayton driver?
Plate, or external?
obxdiver is offline  
post #8 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 01:27 PM
Senior Member
 
dragonleepenn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 430
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

Thanks for the reply PeterV
I think I want to just go with a new 18" driver, like the Dayton, and get a new amp for it as well.
I just want to build my own sub using the old Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure
The Velodyne amp is possibly dead as well, plus, there are several wires that come off of it that go into the 18" woofer.
I assume this is the feedback loop for the servo control feature.
The 6x 1000uf capacitors have already been changed on the amp due to them being bulged on the tops and one was even split open on the top.
I will obviously try the Velo amp with the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver
So what would be a good amp for this Dayton driver?
Plate, or external?


Obx,
Dayton has plate amps, parts-express has them. Only thing is the cutout on the cabinet may or may not fit, you may need to make some adjustments for it to work. Crown xls 1500 amps are very nice I have six of them I use for all my channels (LCR, side surrounds, back etc.) low cost and many here use them for subs.



PeterV
dragonleepenn is online now  
post #9 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 02:18 PM
FOH
AVS Special Member
 
FOH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4,737
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 206
I wouldn't bother with the existing amp, If get an I-nuke dsp amp from Behringer. That way you can signal shape/eq and time align to blend ideally with your current mains thru the crossover region.

When one of my Velodyne sub amusement bad, I powered the still good driver with a Behringer EP4000, dramatic improvement.

------------------------------------
Flat, Deep, Clean, Linear, and Loud
------------------------------------
Active 16.8kw, 7.3 system
(3)Seaton Cat12C up front, (4)QSC K8 sides/rears
(2)Seaton SubM-HP, (4)18" IB
FOH is offline  
post #10 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Thanks
I was looking and reading other posts about the iNukeDSP amps.
I think I will get me an iNuke1000, run it in bridged mode, and get the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver
Then play with the DSP stuff get get a smooth in room response
It should be fun.

Thanks for all the replies
obxdiver is offline  
post #11 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 03:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

Thanks
I was looking and reading other posts about the iNukeDSP amps.
I think I will get me an iNuke1000, run it in bridged mode, and get the Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver
Then play with the DSP stuff get get a smooth in room response
It should be fun.
In a small sealed box like that, you might be better served with the 3000. You can expect about 70-75% of the advertised power.
When you start EQing/boosting the bottom end like the your HGS had already built-into the amp, you will need the power.

jpmst3 is offline  
post #12 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 03:57 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

In a small sealed box like that, you might be better served with the 3000. You can expect about 70-75% of the advertised power.
When you start EQing/boosting the bottom end like the your HGS had already built-into the amp, you will need the power.
Thanks for the advice
Would that still be run in bridged mono mode to give the full 3000 W (or ~75%) to the Dayton driver?
The Dayton driver has 900 watts handling (1800 w peak)
obxdiver is offline  
post #13 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 04:09 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

Thanks for the advice
Would that still be run in bridged mono mode to give the full 3000 W (or ~75%) to the Dayton driver?
The Dayton driver has 900 watts handling (1800 w peak)

Sure or you could just use one channel. Don't get me wrong the 1000 will do, but for a small upcharge you will have headroom and if you want to do another project you will either have extra power or a spare channel depending on how you want to run things.

Also, a driver of this nature can take more that it's rated power for short bursts/transients.

jpmst3 is offline  
post #14 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 04:14 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Sure or you could just use one channel. Don't get me wrong the 1000 will do, but for a small upcharge you will have headroom and if you want to do another project you will either have extra power or a spare channel depending on how you want to run things.

Also, a driver of this nature can take more that it's rated power for short bursts/transients.

OK
Thanks very very much for your advice.
I ordered the iNuke3000DSP and the Dayton 18" driver.
I also ordered some RCA to XLR convertor plugs, since my processor's sub out is an RCA type plug.
And, I ordered some 2-pole twist lock speaker connectors for the iNuke outputs
obxdiver is offline  
post #15 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 04:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

OK
Thanks very very much for your advice.
I ordered the iNuke3000DSP and the Dayton 18" driver.
I also ordered some RCA to XLR convertor plugs, since my processor's sub out is an RCA type plug.
And, I ordered some 2-pole twist lock speaker connectors for the iNuke outputs

Good deal! You are on your way now!

I recently migrated to all SpeakOn connectors as well, the only way to go for me from now on. I have no idea why I resisted that for years.

Also, be warned, once the you get a good taste of what is possible with outboard amps, robust drivers, and everything DIY, be prepared! tongue.gif

You may never want to go with a commercial sub again. It can quickly become an addiction and it is amazing how much performance can be had and more economically to boot. cool.gif

jpmst3 is offline  
post #16 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Good deal! You are on your way now!

I recently migrated to all SpeakOn connectors as well, the only way to go for me from now on. I have no idea why I resisted that for years.

Also, be warned, once the you get a good taste of what is possible with outboard amps, robust drivers, and everything DIY, be prepared! tongue.gif

You may never want to go with a commercial sub again. It can quickly become an addiction and it is amazing how much performance can be had and more economically to boot. cool.gif

Yea..but I am a single guy with no WAF to deal with.tongue.gif
This DIY sub, together with the JTR Cap S2 I already purchased should do me just fine.
I also have an older M & K MX350 dual 12" sub, but thinking of selling that one once I get these 18's running

Thanks again for all of your help
Steve
obxdiver is offline  
post #17 of 39 Old 02-17-2014, 04:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

Yea..but I am a single guy with no WAF to deal with.tongue.gif
This DIY sub, together with the JTR Cap S2 I already purchased should do me just fine.
I also have an older M & K MX350 dual 12" sub, but thinking of selling that one once I get these 18's running

smile.gif Ha! That is all the more reason to go nuts! biggrin.gif Most of the insanity around here is somewhat metered by another half. biggrin.gif

Just fine is what I said ten subs ago! biggrin.gif I keep upgrading and trying different designs. It is a hell of a hobby, but I wish it were cheaper!

jpmst3 is offline  
post #18 of 39 Old 02-22-2014, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Good deal! You are on your way now!

I recently migrated to all SpeakOn connectors as well, the only way to go for me from now on. I have no idea why I resisted that for years.

Also, be warned, once the you get a good taste of what is possible with outboard amps, robust drivers, and everything DIY, be prepared! tongue.gif

You may never want to go with a commercial sub again. It can quickly become an addiction and it is amazing how much performance can be had and more economically to boot. cool.gif

Hi
If anyone is interested, I got my Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver
I have it mounted in the Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure.
The Dayton driver has 8 holes, the Velo driver, only had 6.
So I drilled 8 new holes in the mounting flange of the enclosure, and used #10-32 T-Nuts with steel screws to make a good solid mounting. Luckily, all of my drilled holes lines up perfect with the Dayton driver.
The Dayton driver fit perfectly in the enclosure w/o no modifications required.
I also have the iNuke3000DSP amp, but I have not yet received my SpeakOn connectors.
I hope they come today.

Here is a picture of the now DIY sub.

LTD02 likes this.
obxdiver is offline  
post #19 of 39 Old 02-22-2014, 04:44 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by obxdiver View Post

Hi
If anyone is interested, I got my Dayton RSS460HO-4 18" driver
I have it mounted in the Velodyne HGS-18 enclosure.
The Dayton driver has 8 holes, the Velo driver, only had 6.
So I drilled 8 new holes in the mounting flange of the enclosure, and used #10-32 T-Nuts with steel screws to make a good solid mounting. Luckily, all of my drilled holes lines up perfect with the Dayton driver.
The Dayton driver fit perfectly in the enclosure w/o no modifications required.
I also have the iNuke3000DSP amp, but I have not yet received my SpeakOn connectors.
I hope they come today.

Cool! It looks like it belongs in there. cool.gif

I am looking forward to your impressions after you get it dialed in.

jpmst3 is offline  
post #20 of 39 Old 02-22-2014, 05:34 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Cool! It looks like it belongs in there. cool.gif

I am looking forward to your impressions after you get it dialed in.
Got my Speakon connectors today.
I set the I Nuke to Bridged Mono
I wired the Speakon connector as +1= Plus +2=Negative
-1 & -2 Jumpered

Man this this rocks the house.
I downloaded the I Nuke Remote Connect software
I had to use the limiter just a bit, because it was banging the cone on hard deep bass.
I have it set at -3.5 dBfs. That seems to have stopped that problem.
I was also getting a strange sound from the driver like a high frequency sound.
I used the low pass Butterworth filter at 300 Hz 48dB Slope. That solved the strange sound I was hearing.
The High Pass filter is OFF
I am not using any PEQ or DEQ. I played with them, but for now, I am running it flat.
I have the gain knob on the front of the amp maxed out
Does all of this sound right.
I know it sounds right in my room, but never played with an i Nuke till today.
It has an enormous amount of settings.
Just watched Enders Game and it was awesome.

Lots more playing to come.

One complaint about this amp....Noisy Fans !!!
LTD02 likes this.
obxdiver is offline  
post #21 of 39 Old 02-22-2014, 06:39 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 186
Yes, the gain depends on how much voltage your upstream device can send, ala receiver.

If you are able to bottom the driver you are doing well. You may not be getting all the amp has to offer, depending on voltage hitting the input but in this case it is irrelevant.

Nice work.

jpmst3 is offline  
post #22 of 39 Old 02-22-2014, 06:40 PM
AVS Special Member
 
jpmst3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Davidsville, PA
Posts: 8,115
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 186
Definitely do the fan mod. It takes 5 minutes and typically costs $10-15.
It's a must if these amps are in the listening area.

jpmst3 is offline  
post #23 of 39 Old 02-22-2014, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Yes, the gain depends on how much voltage your upstream device can send, ala receiver.

If you are able to bottom the driver you are doing well. You may not be getting all the amp has to offer, depending on voltage hitting the input but in this case it is irrelevant.

Nice work.
Using the remote connect software, with the input gain maxed out (front panel knob) my input meter is bouncing just above the -12 (near 0). Never clipping.
And, I had to raise the sub level out in my prepro compared to how it was set for the HGS18 to get it that high.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 View Post

Definitely do the fan mod. It takes 5 minutes and typically costs $10-15.
It's a must if these amps are in the listening area.

Humm.. Fan Mod??
First I have heard of that.
Very interested. Yes. amp is in listening room.
Do u have a link for this mod?
obxdiver is offline  
post #24 of 39 Old 02-22-2014, 09:02 PM
AVS Special Member
 
BassThatHz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East side of NW Cascades
Posts: 2,500
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Liked: 288
300hz why so high? Should be more like 120hz and 24db/oct.
BassThatHz is online now  
post #25 of 39 Old 02-23-2014, 03:55 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

300hz why so high? Should be more like 120hz and 24db/oct.
Thanks for the recommended setting BassThatHz
I have changed it as you said. wink.gif
I have attached all of my iNuke3000DSP screens below.
Please look at them and tell me if you think something else should be changed.
I added a small amount of PEQ last night to get some more punch at the lower end.
I am learning, and w/o AVS forum...I would be lost.












obxdiver is offline  
post #26 of 39 Old 02-23-2014, 04:06 AM
AVS Special Member
 
notnyt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 4,044
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 65 Post(s)
Liked: 315
If you're using sub out from your receiver, and have the sub crossed there, do not set a crossover in the inuke as it is unnecessary.
LTD02 likes this.
notnyt is online now  
post #27 of 39 Old 02-23-2014, 04:12 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

If you're using sub out from your receiver, and have the sub crossed there, do not set a crossover in the inuke as it is unnecessary.
At first, I did not set it in the iNuke.
Yes, the sub Xover is set in my Lexicon prepro @ 80Hz.
But, I was getting a very annoying sound from the sub without a xover in the iNuke.
It was not loud, but in quiet scenes of movies, I was hearing it.
It sounded like a squeaky fan belt..but very low level. I could only hear it when it totally quiet
I am using a RCA to XLR converter plug. Don't know if that was causing, but when I started to play with the xover in the iNuke, that sound went away, so that is why I am using it.
This sound went away when I brought the iNuke xOver down below 2000Hz

The rocket launches in Enders Game last night were the best I have heard in my room, so I am saying it kicks the HGS-18 out the door...biggrin.gif
obxdiver is offline  
post #28 of 39 Old 02-23-2014, 04:16 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 15,837
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 84 Post(s)
Liked: 809
"Man this this rocks the house.
I downloaded the I Nuke Remote Connect software
I had to use the limiter just a bit, because it was banging the cone on hard deep bass.
I have it set at -3.5 dBfs. That seems to have stopped that problem."

nice thread!

the amp will output about 2200 'real' watts into 4 ohms, which is a little too much for that driver. -3db is about half power and that is about what the driver can take, so you are set about right in the limiter.

as 'not mentioned, the avr will be applying a 4th order low pass filter depending on where you have your crossover set, most likely around 80hz or so, so no low pass filter is necessary in the inuke itself.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
post #29 of 39 Old 02-23-2014, 04:29 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"Man this this rocks the house.
nice thread!

the amp will output about 2200 'real' watts into 4 ohms, which is a little too much for that driver. -3db is about half power and that is about what the driver can take, so you are set about right in the limiter.

as 'not mentioned, the avr will be applying a 4th order low pass filter depending on where you have your crossover set, most likely around 80hz or so, so no low pass filter is necessary in the inuke itself.

Thanks
See post #27 for the reason I use the xOver in the iNuke
obxdiver is offline  
post #30 of 39 Old 02-23-2014, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
obxdiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: SouthEastCoast, VA
Posts: 1,447
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

If you're using sub out from your receiver, and have the sub crossed there, do not set a crossover in the inuke as it is unnecessary.
Hey notnyt:
I just checked out your sub build thread.
Man..if only I had the wood working know how like you do...and own all the tools necessary to build such subs.
However, I can build one bad ass computer and write software for it with my eyes closed...tongue.gif
I am very impressed with your setup.
Nice work.
I see others have problems with bottoming out the drivers...not just me..tongue.gif
WOTW did last night too w/o the iNuke limiter enabled. eek.gif
obxdiver is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off