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post #1 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi members I thought I would post a thread to see if there’s any interest in giving some different views and SW building techniques a format. I know we generally keep our opinions to ourselves, some many would agree being spot on, wrong or indifferent. If there is any interest in a certain subject being brought up just send me a PM and I would be glad to post it at the appropriate time or PM you asking you to post if you like. As things go 20 different subjects can get going at once, so however the wind blows it blows.. if it blows?

I noticed a post the other day by a member that hates mounting rings (I forget the name nor would I say) but it struck me as am I missing something in my understanding/experience with them? (I’ve seen plenty of posts in the past stating the same). Most to all the ID or DIY subs I’ve had employed them. I have only used weather striping once or twice when a ring went bad or the driver came without if I remember correctly? I’ve had to use other type gaskets a driver has come with a few times also. I see some talk the provided mounting ring gaskets aren't good for sealed, but then I only have built a few sealed subs, so possibly I lucked out?? Anyway I know some poo-poo the idea of mounting ring gaskets (not saying your wrong or don’t have good reason) I’m just trying to get a better understanding of this view is all and it could be a help to others. I do know some just don’t like the look, but then others do. Any experiences or views out there that you might share?
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post #2 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 02:32 PM
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I personally haven't had any issues with my SI mounting rings on my sealed build. YMMV. Not much more to say than that.

If you have had issues don't use them; if it ain't broke.......................

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post #3 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 02:36 PM
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Same. I own and have dealt with installing at least 15 drivers with the same rubber gasket. I think it looks good on and I have never had an issue using them, mounting them or leakage issues. At least ones that were caused by it and not something I had done. tongue.gif

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post #4 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 02:50 PM
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Those mounting ring gaskets are cosmetic and I think they look good too. I use foam to seal mine up every time. I know John at AE uses closed cell foam to seal his drivers in his cabs as well.

I have heard air escape around drivers before, not so with foam tape.

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post #5 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by robotbunny View Post


I have heard air escape around drivers before, not so with foam tape.

-Nate

Quit cutting the hole too big and you won't have that problem. tongue.gif

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post #6 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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bass, Scott, rob> I hear what all of you are saying. It's just been my experience in building a few subs I have had no problem. In that experience I've only built a few sealed subs though like mentioned, I always gravitate towards vented although I have nothing bad to say about sealed if done right. (once again that's my opinion)

Ok rob you think the mounting ring is all cosmetic. Well I certainly agree with half of your post but we all know what it's like to build a sealed sub and mount the driver praying when we push it in with our finger-tips all will be well. I never have had things not be good with the ring itself although not extensive experience with building sealed.

Mounting ring good or bad??




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post #7 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 03:11 PM
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I plan on building a sub this year and am subscribed to try and glean some knowledge....

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post #8 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 03:21 PM
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My opinion, not worth much but.... I used to build simple sealed subs for car audio back in the early 90s and they never came with gaskets, so you where always having to improvise if they did come with a gasket it was the cork kind usually. Once installed, if you took them off they where trash. My Klipsch subs I just got rid of had the foam type gasket and when I took the sub off the foam was so smashed there really wasn't much gasket left. I personally like the SI rubber gasket they use. It looks like, works, and hides the ugly screw if you do it right. I also think that it protects the woofers surround by not leaving it exposed. I did have leakage on my first one but that was all my fault. (Hole too bit and I stupidly rounded the outside edge of face) Just my opinion.
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post #9 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Quit cutting the hole too big and you won't have that problem. tongue.gif

That's what she said. :-P
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post #10 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Same. I own and have dealt with installing at least 15 drivers with the same rubber gasket. I think it looks good on and I have never had an issue using them, mounting them or leakage issues. At least ones that were caused by it and not something I had done. tongue.gif

Scott you just finished building a boat load of sealed. (most I've ever seen) Did you have or have any issues with any of them?

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post #11 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 04:12 PM
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Nope but we did also use some speaker foam with the rubber gasket so.. that could have helped. wink.gif

And yes, this was definitely the most things I have ever built all at once. Omg, never again. tongue.gif

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post #12 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robotbunny View Post

Those mounting ring gaskets are cosmetic and I think they look good too. I use foam to seal mine up every time. I know John at AE uses closed cell foam to seal his drivers in his cabs as well.

I have heard air escape around drivers before, not so with foam tape.-Nate

Gotcha! I appreciate you stepping into the thread and hope more do with your opinion. So in forming your opinion was that a one time deal with the mounting ring or a few to more times than that then? I know I have formed opinions in the past and then regressed.
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Scott> Same. I own and have dealt with installing at least 15 drivers with the same rubber gasket. I think it looks good on and I have never had an issue using them, mounting them or leakage issues. At least ones that were caused by it and not something I had done. tongue.gif
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Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Nope but we did also use some speaker foam with the rubber gasket so.. that could have helped. wink.gif

And yes, this was definitely the most things I have ever built all at once. Omg, never again. tongue.gif

Oh a cheater lol. Thinking back I think I did that too with a couple of RLp's but I know I haven't with sealed since I've built so few. The more I think about it the more I come up with since I didn't contemplate vehicle subs which have always been sealed if built. I couldn't imagine doing a project like you just undertook though.
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I plan on building a sub this year and am subscribed to try and glean some knowledge....

Hey lovin it's good to see you over here. ++

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post #13 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 07:22 PM
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Hey lovin it's good to see you over here. ++

Thanks, been lurking a bit while I get my workshop setup in my new place and gathering tools....I'm sure I'll be asking a lot of questions in the near future!

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post #14 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 07:31 PM
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Bossobass always gets rid of his gaskets and uses closed cell foam tape.
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Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

I use closed cell foam tape, 3/4" wide x 1/4" thick:

First, remove and discard the rubber gasket:


1) Paint a light coat of contact adhesive on the box driver recess seat and allow to dry.


2) Apply the foam tape. Overlap the tape once you get all the way around.


3) Cut through the overlap with a sharp utility knife, perpendicular to the cutout.


4) Carefully peel away the useless parts and butt he foam tape seam so that there are no gaps.


5) Set the driver in the hole.


6) Pre-drill the holes using a drill diameter that allows your screw size to fit tightly without exploding the MDF.


7) Instal the screws to snug. Then do the final tightening of the screws as you would tighten the lugs on a car wheel, crossing back and forth.


No leaks, guaranteed, every time.


To remove the driver, use a pair of paint can openers. They have a hooked end that fits into the drivers mounting hole and grabs the frame. Start at one hole and slowly lift the driver to break the seal without damaging the foam.


Do NOT use caulk of any kind. It's messy, unnecessary and silicone is problematic from several angles.


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post #15 of 26 Old 03-13-2014, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cessna1466u View Post

My opinion, not worth much but.... I used to build simple sealed subs for car audio back in the early 90s and they never came with gaskets, so you where always having to improvise if they did come with a gasket it was the cork kind usually. Once installed, if you took them off they where trash. My Klipsch subs I just got rid of had the foam type gasket and when I took the sub off the foam was so smashed there really wasn't much gasket left. I personally like the SI rubber gasket they use. It looks like, works, and hides the ugly screw if you do it right. I also think that it protects the woofers surround by not leaving it exposed. I did have leakage on my first one but that was all my fault. (Hole too bit and I stupidly rounded the outside edge of face) Just my opinion.

Sure it is! You're the 1st to run dual Marty mini-mini super cubes wink.gif I too like the rings for many of the reasons you stated but in the end it has to be function over aesthetics I'm sure you would agree from what you state. All the rings I've used seem to be fairly soft and pliable. I wonder if there's any type of standard that is adhered to when going about choosing the material they go with and possibly some because of cost or lack of foresight go with a little harder material??
Quote:
desert> Bossobass always gets rid of his gaskets and uses closed cell foam tape.

I'm certainly not going to argue Dave, when I first went sealed he was a big help in a certain piece of gear and has been since when setting up sealed, he's forgotten more about SW's than what I'll ever know. I don't doubt the validity of using different material for sealed, but is it really necessary? With my last build I had a leak with a PR mounting that I would not have had with the foam tape but I figured it out and fixed it at the point of the problem. So in that regard I know it's more forgiving.

I saw a pic of a guy using calk today on a vented rig. It was pretty funny.. we all learn as we go.
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post #16 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 06:46 AM
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What is the effect of cutting the hole to large? Any performance or sound quality concerns? I did this with both my subs and can hear air when I push on the cone.
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post #17 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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What is the effect of cutting the hole to large? Any performance or sound quality concerns? I did this with both my subs and can hear air when I push on the cone.

OOO! that's not good. Are all your screws grabbing though? If they are, are you using the weather stripping or the like? If not you're a great candidate and that should/hopefully fix it.

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post #18 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 08:49 AM
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From John Janowitz at Acoustic Elegance regarding the rubber gaskets:
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Just a quick note on the rubber gaskets. Unless your surface is perfect, they will not seal. They are more cosmetic than anything. I always use closed cell foam weather stripping behind the gasket to assure a good seal.
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post #19 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 09:00 AM
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What is the effect of cutting the hole to large? Any performance or sound quality concerns? I did this with both my subs and can hear air when I push on the cone.

Don't know if it will help in your case but Home Depot has this roll of a putty like substance its about 1" wide and you can just stick it to the baffle and when you tighten your subwoofer on there it should squeeze enough to seal any small holes. This is what it looks like. I bought it to try and help me with my leak but I ended up just removing the whole front baffle and cutting a new piece. (I am anal about these kind of things and it would have bothered me until I did it right.)


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post #20 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 10:01 AM
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Great recommendations guys, thanks. The screws are grabbing but it is definitely close. Won't make the same mistake next time!
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post #21 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 09:43 PM
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I had problems with the SI 18 and posted in that thread. The caulk like shown above did the trick. 

Living with a leak is like missing half the sub!

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post #22 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post

From John Janowitz at Acoustic Elegance regarding the rubber gaskets:


Quote:
Originally Posted by John Janowitz View Post

Just a quick note on the rubber gaskets. Unless your surface is perfect, they will not seal. They are more cosmetic than anything. I always use closed cell foam weather stripping behind the gasket to assure a good seal.

I don't know about that. They're sealing on the front of my enclosures coated with duratex. Pulling them off of other less than perfect enclosures shows they've formed to the surface imperfections. I understand they're not the best, and won't fill in really low points, but if the surface is flat enough they'll do the job.
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post #23 of 26 Old 03-14-2014, 09:56 PM - Thread Starter
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The rope has a tendency to dry over time, a guy can always change it out though.

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post #24 of 26 Old 03-16-2014, 06:52 AM - Thread Starter
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So it seems as though the general consensus is if going sealed using weather striping or the like behind the mounting ring is warranted. Knowing how issues can come up, I can certainly understand that. I could see how a good case could be made for vented also.
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post #25 of 26 Old 03-16-2014, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

***
To remove the driver, use a pair of paint can openers. They have a hooked end that fits into the drivers mounting hole and grabs the frame. Start at one hole and slowly lift the driver to break the seal without damaging the foam.

That's a really great idea.

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post #26 of 26 Old 03-16-2014, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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That's a really great idea.

Taking a Philips and doing the like with the screw holes works if in a pinch.

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