Official CNC router Help and Suggestions thread - Page 11 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #301 of 321 Old 12-31-2014, 04:48 PM
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Thanks Gorilla. As soon as the Vectric site comes back, I'll purchase Vcarve Pro.

Edit: Now own Sketchup Pro and Vcarve Pro.
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Last edited by dgage; 12-31-2014 at 05:36 PM.
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post #302 of 321 Old 01-01-2015, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Thanks Gorilla. As soon as the Vectric site comes back, I'll purchase Vcarve Pro.

Edit: Now own Sketchup Pro and Vcarve Pro.
Good deal. You will find many uses for vcarve even outside of cabinet making. Watch all of the relevant videos at least once. Have fun and come back with questions - I know you will have many.
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post #303 of 321 Old 01-04-2015, 12:22 PM
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Gorilla, I'm not liking all of the tabs I will be needing to cleanup. Do you have any plans/notes/info on your vacuum hold down system you can share? Thanks. And Congrats again on #2 ...exciting!!!
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post #304 of 321 Old 01-04-2015, 12:36 PM
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Here you go:


http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19556





Start reading, there is a LOT to learn.


Thanks for the congrats, we are excited!
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post #305 of 321 Old 01-04-2015, 07:27 PM
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Thanks Rilla!

I noticed you mentioned you might be able to get by with 2 motors...do you still think that? Or should I just plan on 3 from the beginning?
EDIT: I actually have a 5'x10' so I think I'd need a minimum of 3 unless you think I need 4...I definitely don't want to redo anything so if 3 is questionable, I'd do 4 from the beginning.

And how often do you have to clean the ShopVac filter?

Anything you'd do differently?

Thanks again for blazing the trail and sharing your knowledge and experience!

Last edited by dgage; 01-04-2015 at 07:34 PM.
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post #306 of 321 Old 01-05-2015, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Thanks Rilla!

I noticed you mentioned you might be able to get by with 2 motors...do you still think that? Or should I just plan on 3 from the beginning?
EDIT: I actually have a 5'x10' so I think I'd need a minimum of 3 unless you think I need 4...I definitely don't want to redo anything so if 3 is questionable, I'd do 4 from the beginning.

And how often do you have to clean the ShopVac filter?

Anything you'd do differently?

Thanks again for blazing the trail and sharing your knowledge and experience!
2 motors would probably more than fine if you are only cutting full size (4x8 and larger) sheet goods. The extra motors help when you need extra volume to account for losses due to air bleeding out of lots of cuts or smaller sized pieces. I did buy another 2 motors (used) to experiment with a smaller enclosure at some point. In your situation with the huge table, and considering how cheap these motors are, I would probably do at least 4 motors. I think for those who have built something similar the rule of thumb was one motor per zone, assuming the zones are split equally. You can always set them up so you can power down half the motors as long as you have a flapper door or something between them to prevent air from being bled out from an unused motor.

I really like these lighthouse motors - I probably have ~75-100 hours on mine so far. Right after powering mine up, I actually removed the filter box from the mix as it proved to be a pretty big restriction. It was still fine the way it was, I just figured after I got all of the junk out of the lines I could pretty much just use the bleeder board as the filter.

First - Figure out what you plan on cutting and create your grid/zones as needed. You can size the motors required based on this, but these things are only ~120 per motor so as long as you have the electrical in place to support them, go big. FYI - The 4 240v motors I have are on a 30A 240V line and breaker.

Youtube vid of mine in action during testing - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1X9...ature=youtu.be

Last edited by Gorilla83; 01-05-2015 at 11:52 AM.
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post #307 of 321 Old 01-05-2015, 12:27 PM
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A couple of things to note for those interested in building a DIY VAC setup:

1) If you decide to use the lighthouse motors, be absolutely SURE to use the gaskets. They do not include them by default and prevent the motor from being crushed from over tightening. I lost my first motor by not using these within seconds. Since I added the gaskets (they should include on the orders!!) there are no issues.

Motor source that I used: http://www.centralvacuummotor.com/shopbot.htm

2) The motors are NOT quiet so if you mind the noise you might want to run them in an adjacent room. Most that have tried hard to suppress the noise in some kind of box seem to do so at the expense of rises in temperature. Mine run quite cool - I have a temp sensor on the primary motor housing and with most runs under 45 minutes to an hour I typically don't see anything north of 130 degrees, even in the summer.

3) For those limited to single phase power but want a plug and play solution you can buy something similar to what I have built here:
http://www.blackboxvac.com/

They seem to be quite reasonable especially compared to the three phase alternatives which are 5-10k typically.
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post #308 of 321 Old 01-05-2015, 02:58 PM
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I was doing searching and there doesn't seem to be a clear set of plans for the "black box" system you used. So I was indeed considering the Hurricane. I'll do some more research and see if I can pull together the final details to determine whether I have the time to do this DIY or if I should bite the bullet and buy the Hurricane.

Gary Campbell says the Hurricane is an improved version of the one you built...have you read anywhere about a comparison to determine the amount of improvement? Thanks.

David
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post #309 of 321 Old 01-05-2015, 05:15 PM
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I had read the same regarding some enhancements made to the hurricane setup, but not sure what the specifics are. As for the black box design, there aren't a set of plans or anything, but Gary had posted some pictures and general guidelines for overall design. I should still have my vectric files somewhere though, let me take a look so you can get an idea.


If I recall I think I spent around 800 dollars on my setup including motors, wood, and electrical stuff so a real bargain for what it is.
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post #310 of 321 Old 01-05-2015, 06:25 PM
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I could probably figure it out...read quite a bit today. But it's the little things like the 1/4" bypass hole so the motors don't burn up or the gaskets that you learned about the hard way. I think I saw one wiring diagram but there wasn't complete agreement on how to wire the black box (one suggested a fuse). But $800 and some time compared to $2000 is definitely worth thinking about, especially when I can handle wiring and plumbing fairly easily.

If you have any additional materials though, it would be greatly appreciated, especially the wiring diagram you used.
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post #311 of 321 Old 01-06-2015, 05:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
I could probably figure it out...read quite a bit today. But it's the little things like the 1/4" bypass hole so the motors don't burn up or the gaskets that you learned about the hard way. I think I saw one wiring diagram but there wasn't complete agreement on how to wire the black box (one suggested a fuse). But $800 and some time compared to $2000 is definitely worth thinking about, especially when I can handle wiring and plumbing fairly easily.

If you have any additional materials though, it would be greatly appreciated, especially the wiring diagram you used.
For the bypass/venting - I installed a 2" ball valve that allowed me to open/close to add more air to the system as it needed it, and I can close it when there the system is no longer sealed and I'm cutting pieces much smaller than the zone. Installing a vacuum gauge is a must to see where you stand with suction along with a temperature gauge of some sort to see how hot the motors are running. It's pretty basic and much simpler once you've used it for a few days.

As for the wiring it's very easy. Each motor only has 2 hot leads (power leads) and a ground. There is no neutral wire required. You can either use a breaker or a fuse for each motor, doesn't really matter as long as you're protected. I liked using the breaker panel because it allowed me to use one 10 gauge wire in and it served as a distribution block for the different motors. You could just as easily wire the motors in parallel. I build my own cord with a 10-2 flex wire with ground and matching plug. Very easy to do that part.
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post #312 of 321 Old 02-06-2015, 08:38 AM
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Not really a CNC router, but similar

Having a 'lil fun making a "jig" for the bolt holes of my FaitalPRO 18FH500

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post #313 of 321 Old 02-06-2015, 06:33 PM
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Pretty awesome either way. The tool change out was pretty awesome also. How is this being held in place?

It looked like there was a bit of movement on the second to last hole. Just curious.
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post #314 of 321 Old 02-06-2015, 08:55 PM
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Pretty awesome either way. The tool change out was pretty awesome also. How is this being held in place?

It looked like there was a bit of movement on the second to last hole. Just curious.
Always love the tool changer, btw, it holds 24 tools.

Yes, there is a lot of movement. My feed rate was too fast/material is poorly held


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post #315 of 321 Old 02-06-2015, 10:32 PM
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You guys and your fancy tools.
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post #316 of 321 Old 03-15-2015, 06:13 PM
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this is a fantastic thread.. thanks for the insight.. i tried to quote chrapladm but don't have a sufficient post count.

did you end up buying your own router? where in adelaide did you find the cnc guy?

am happy to PM if you want, but it wont let me send you on!
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post #317 of 321 Old 03-15-2015, 08:25 PM
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this is a fantastic thread.. thanks for the insight.. i tried to quote chrapladm but don't have a sufficient post count.

did you end up buying your own router? where in adelaide did you find the cnc guy?

am happy to PM if you want, but it wont let me send you on!
Mrcleaner if your in ADL then there are quite a few CNC companies. I just keep buying tools lately to make building easier. Cant afford the cnc option yet.
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post #318 of 321 Unread Today, 06:23 AM
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I would appreciate some advice on nominal dimensioning for Dadoes and dogbone fillets

My workflow is to design in Sketchup and then import .skp files into VcarvePro to debug the toolpath and make sure the parts are "clean". Then I go to the CNC shop and do this over again with their help because I don't yet have a VcarvePro license and I don't know enough about toolpathing. Consequently, I want to get all that detail into the Sketchup drawing rather than doing that work in Vcarve using their gadgets. That might change if/when I invest in a Vcarve license.

I can draw a dogbone by drawing two tool-diameter circles at/near the end corners of the stopped Dado. It looks to me the centers of those circles should be inset 1/2 the radius of the tool from the edges. Is that right? The dogbone won't be visible. I just don't want to have to fight to get the pieces to fit together. I tried squaring up the edge of the slot by hand on my proto and that was an incredible pain compounded by the slot itself being too tight.

How tight should the slot be? I quick calculation says that 1/64" oversize should more than cover all the tolerances. Is that tight enough? I just want to locate the part precisely and hold it in place for gluing. I'm not concerned about strength of the joint.

Thanks for your help
Jack
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post #319 of 321 Unread Today, 08:08 AM
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Jack - You're on the right track. Tradtionally, filets are done 1/2 the radius of the tool in each corner where slotting/fitting is done. I usually add in some extra space .01 or .02 as it usually means the difference between sanding or no sanding. Once you get vcarve licensing you can use the "allowance" toolpath feature to easily add in the typical .01 to .02 in the slots. BTW the new vcarve 8.0 version is phenomenal!! If you're planning to do more projects in the future it's definitely worth the investment from my perspective. I'm planning to do some 'wall art' next week.
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post #320 of 321 Unread Today, 08:46 AM
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Jack - You're on the right track. Tradtionally, filets are done 1/2 the radius of the tool in each corner where slotting/fitting is done. I usually add in some extra space .01 or .02 as it usually means the difference between sanding or no sanding. Once you get vcarve licensing you can use the "allowance" toolpath feature to easily add in the typical .01 to .02 in the slots. BTW the new vcarve 8.0 version is phenomenal!! If you're planning to do more projects in the future it's definitely worth the investment from my perspective. I'm planning to do some 'wall art' next week.
Please tell me if I have it right. The top left is my first attempt. Its pretty ugly so I thought I should ask. The bottom right is my interpretation of what you said, using a 1/4"mill to cut a nominally half inch slot, with an 1/8" mill cutting the dogbones. I like that method, its less work and gives me a precise stop.
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post #321 of 321 Unread Today, 09:42 AM
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That looks pretty good. If you use the filet tool and preview in Vcarve you will see it looks similar to that.
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