DR-250 stack and Yorkvilles U215's! Which one will I like better? - Page 14 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #391 of 928 Old 06-01-2014, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Here it is again but with a different computer and the internal mic. This computer does not seem to want to recognize my umik. WTH


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post #392 of 928 Old 06-01-2014, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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WOTW plane crash





Old plane crash scene

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post #393 of 928 Old 06-01-2014, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Lightning strikes


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post #394 of 928 Old 06-01-2014, 08:43 PM - Thread Starter
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The end of pod emerge when tom is running and the building gets destroyed


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post #395 of 928 Old 06-01-2014, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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bridge collapse


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post #396 of 928 Old 06-03-2014, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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BTW, using the nano's LT boost is fantastic as well. You figure out your FS and Q with a near field response and then add the curve you wish. Copy and paste the biquads and done. You need to take a near field anyways with the Bassis.

Here is the spreadsheet if interested.


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post #397 of 928 Old 06-03-2014, 10:41 PM
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Sure is incredible all one can do with the Nano.

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post #398 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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If I could run the nano directly to an amp I would. The bass management and crossovers are great in the Nano and the system sounds perfect!

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post #399 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 11:40 AM
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MK - One of the only complaints I have with my JTR 212s is the midbass isn't as strong as I'd like. Have you noticed an increase in midbass impact (gunshots) with your NanoAVR settings? May not apply to your setup but just wondering if you noticed.

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post #400 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post

MK - One of the only complaints I have with my JTR 212s is the midbass isn't as strong as I'd like. Have you noticed an increase in midbass impact (gunshots) with your NanoAVR settings? May not apply to your setup but just wondering if you noticed.

Run your mains through a processor with PEQ and boost the 60 to 150hz range.

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post #401 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Easy answer, Baffle wall! My mid bass had to be trimmed 10 dBs! You can try all different settings with the nano to see which response sounds best. I tried every crossover slope and some delay and every sweep had a slight dip at the crossover. Most likely not audible but I removed the mains HPF and left the LFE's LPF and it was flat! The baffle wall creates so much extra the speakers are fine like this and sound great at reference.

BTW, once I changed the HDMI cable the Nano works perfect! I love this tiny little box. The problem I find is I like to take out the mic and play now rather than watch some movies. I will be taking some more spec lab sweeps because it is just so cool. I am thinking about changing my config back to 5.1 but with stack surrounds like Imax. I am not sure though. I run a LR 12 db slope at 120 hz for the LFE with no crossover on the front 3 speakers. The smallest dip I had was using a 80hz LR 24 dB slope for the mains. Again, no main crossover works best for my setup. Just make sure you are still clean at desired levels before running loud movies or music.

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post #402 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Well I tried all my HDMI cables but the common cable that was in the loop was a redmere cable. I always had a redmere because it was the only one long enough to reach my LP. I had an old 15 footer so I tried that and the first time without a redmere cable in the nano chain. It had a redmere in one input or output all the time. This last time I tried 3 different HDMI cables with no redmere(just lucky this happened) and it worked again. Maybe the nano does not like the boost the redmere gives? I had to sit on the floor with the computer which was not comfortable. I am not finished with the bass management for the new amp in the mix so we will see what tomorrow brings. Maybe the cable at 30 feet was just too long? I did try 6 foot redmere cables as well with no luck. I am sticking with the problem being the boost.

Have you tried BJC cables?  They seem to be one of the most knowledgeable companies specializing in quality(not snake oil) cables.

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post #403 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Easy answer, Baffle wall! My mid bass had to be trimmed 10 dBs! You can try all different settings with the nano to see which response sounds best. I tried every crossover slope and some delay and every sweep had a slight dip at the crossover. Most likely not audible but I removed the mains HPF and left the LFE's LPF and it was flat! The baffle wall creates so much extra the speakers are fine like this and sound great at reference.

BTW, once I changed the HDMI cable the Nano works perfect! I love this tiny little box. The problem I find is I like to take out the mic and play now rather than watch some movies. I will be taking some more spec lab sweeps because it is just so cool. I am thinking about changing my config back to 5.1 but with stack surrounds like Imax. I am not sure though. I run a LR 12 db slope at 120 hz for the LFE with no crossover on the front 3 speakers. The smallest dip I had was using a 80hz LR 24 dB slope for the mains. Again, no main crossover works best for my setup. Just make sure you are still clean at desired levels before running loud movies or music.

Can a baffle wall just be a false wall? How sturdy does it have to be?

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post #404 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear123 View Post

Have you tried BJC cables?  They seem to be one of the most knowledgeable companies specializing in quality(not snake oil) cables.

I have some BJC in my walls and my old component video cable is BJC. I have no need for my cables anyways now it is working.

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post #405 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raynist View Post

Can a baffle wall just be a false wall? How sturdy does it have to be?

The baffle wall is a false wall but I doubled it as an IB so I beefed it up.

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post #406 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 04:22 PM
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A false wall would do nothing acoustically, or at least a very minimal amount, so you have to have a solid wall with cutouts for the speakers. At least that's always been my understanding.
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post #407 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 05:15 PM
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A false wall would do nothing acoustically, or at least a very minimal amount, so you have to have a solid wall with cutouts for the speakers. At least that's always been my understanding.
It will do a lot more than you might expect, I have plenty of experience running sound systems in tents that taught me that. But if the wall's too soft it can vibrate, which isn't good, and the lower the frequency the system runs to the more solid it needs to be to resist vibration. Rule of thumb, 2x4s 16 inches on center with at least 1/2" sheet rock, just like the rest of the room.

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post #408 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 05:23 PM
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It will do a lot more than you might expect, I have plenty of experience running sound systems in tents that taught me that. But if the wall's too soft it can vibrate, which isn't good, and the lower the frequency the system runs to the more solid it needs to be to resist vibration. Rule of thumb, 2x4s 16 inches on center with at least 1/2" sheet rock, just like the rest of the room.


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post #409 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 05:27 PM
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it would be frequency dependent. at low frequencies, your pretty much right carp!

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post #410 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 06:17 PM
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it would be frequency dependent. at low frequencies, your pretty much right carp!
I found playing electric bass with nothing behind my rig but stretched canvas that the boundary reinforcement was essentially the same as in a room. That's only down to 50Hz of course, so it wasn't the same as an HT sub. With high output at 30Hz and lower it would have to be stretched mighty tight not to do some serious flapping.

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post #411 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I beefed up my wall like a sealed sub. I have double to quad 2x4's plus back to front bracing with more 2x4's. I lined the whole chamber with linocoustic, floor, ceilings, back and front wall with bass traps already in place. It came out well, still can't stop Irene from flexing the screen though which has nothing to do with the wall. It only lasts for seconds so ok.

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post #412 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 06:42 PM
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So a small IB like yours is basically like a sealed setup right?

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post #413 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, a large sealed setup. My sealed subwoofer is 30 cubes per driver.

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post #414 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 07:18 PM
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Sorry by cubes do you mean ft3 ? So total of 240ft3 of volume? That IS a large sealed setup.

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post #415 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes the area is 273 cubic feet and I subtracted the speakers combined cubic feet.
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post #416 of 928 Old 06-04-2014, 08:12 PM
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Nice thanks MK.

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post #417 of 928 Old 06-24-2014, 02:51 PM
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So what's the verdict here, are the DR's staying now that they've been upgraded with the NanoAVR?
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post #418 of 928 Old 06-24-2014, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh yeah!
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post #419 of 928 Old 06-26-2014, 09:10 AM - Thread Starter
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I am in the process of changing my theater around for an Imax type of configuration so I will post pics and responses when finished. This will create a few things that should make a better overall experience. I am creating a sweet spot seat in the front row, I am placing all seats on a wooden riser for more tactile vibrations rather than concrete, and the rear speakers will be double stacked like the fronts making a bigger sound stage.
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post #420 of 928 Old 10-10-2014, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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I have changed my theater around and it rocks! Plus this is for Popalock.
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