I've had a good bit of experience in the pro audio side of things, so I'm familiar with all of the frequency, efficiency, crossover, ohms, etc stuff, but I've never really dove into building my own speakers before. I'm looking to make a nice pair of shop/computer speakers that can go reasonably loud (say 95 dB or better at 1 meter) and have good response on the low end while maintaining good clarity in a small and relatively cheap package (around $100 per speaker). I know I won't have quite the response of a true subwoofer, but I'd like to get as close as realistically possible.
I like the 3-way HiFi idea and was hoping to use the 8" driver from the build for the low end. I know some of you are going to want to decapitate me for this (somewhat against my better judgment as well), but I was hoping to ditch the 2 x 5" drivers and tweeters and replace them with a single mid/high driver (perhaps a smaller diameter full-range driver) that's compatible in order to keep size and cost down. I could then throw in a crossover somewhere around the 1k range or so. I don't really know if this speaker is compatible with the previously mentioned driver, but something like this 3" driver for a high mid/high is something along the lines of what I had in mind. It doesn't necessarily have to have killer crisp highs as I'm intending these to be a shop speaker (and I can always add a proper tweeter later if necessary), just enough clean highs to sound "good".
I have no real idea how to use any of the simulation software in order to determine what drivers are compatible with what and what sizes to make the boxes and such, but I know you can't really just throw 2 drivers together and hope they work. Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Another thought I had was to get a pair of Dayton Audio ND140 drivers in a box of some sort (perhaps T-line) for the lows and an ND65 for the highs. This might seem like a better option as it would be considerably cheaper and seems like it should get the job done with a properly designed box.
The Tang Band W5-1138SMF looks might interesting as well with a deeper frequency response.
I did some more research and I kinda like the Tang Band W5 vented for the lows (hard to beat vented 35Hz F3 in a 5 1/4" driver) and the Dayton ND65 for the mids and highs. The crossover would be set around 500-1K with possibly some overlap to reduce the low-mid muddyness from the sub. I could stick a low pass on the ND65 at 500Hz and a high pass on the W5 at 1K with the idea that that fullness would come from the W5 while the clarity could be from the ND65.