Two cylinder sub-woofers in SVS style. - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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Old 05-07-2014, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cochinada View Post

Yes that makes sense but this poses some engineering problems as I would have to raise it significantly which means some feet about 220mm x 35mm.

I'm not sure what you mean by "220mm x 35mm"

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Old 05-07-2014, 01:20 PM
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sorry, double post
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Old 05-07-2014, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TheGiantPeach View Post

I'm not sure what you mean by "220mm x 35mm"

I'm talking about 6 feet each with 220mm long and 35mm diameter that will support the cylinder.
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Old 05-07-2014, 02:33 PM
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Oh right, yeah you will have to build something like that. I don't know how other people do it because I haven't followed a cylinder sub build before. I imagine you could just screw some dowels onto the baffle, and maybe also have a circular base to screw the other end of the dowels into.

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Old 05-07-2014, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, the circular base is a must to keep the feet aligned. I will probably use some metallic tubes with an insert but I was not considering that length.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:00 PM
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"The PC13-Ultra has a 13,5" driver according to the information on the SVS site. I will have an 18". So here I guess I have an advantage at least theoretically."

that is the comparison that is shown in #83.

as for clearance, as the driver begins to move, only about half of the driver excursion translates to additional surround motion. so a decent rule of thumb is about whatever the surround height is, allow for that much more clearance.

Listen. It's All Good.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:42 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"The PC13-Ultra has a 13,5" driver according to the information on the SVS site. I will have an 18". So here I guess I have an advantage at least theoretically."

that is the comparison that is shown in #83.

as for clearance, as the driver begins to move, only about half of the driver excursion translates to additional surround motion. so a decent rule of thumb is about whatever the surround height is, allow for that much more clearance.


I don't know what is the surround height. I only know surround speakers but don't think it has anything to do with it...
Xmax = 30mm.
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Old 05-08-2014, 02:25 AM
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Listen. It's All Good.
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Old 05-08-2014, 05:42 AM - Thread Starter
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I see! So you say that 2" (the surround height) between the bottom of the surround and the floor is enough?

I've decided to go for about 6".

Now for a different subject! In terms of damping materials which one of these examples do you reckon is more effective for covering the inside of the box?

DAMPING30
Self-adhesive insulating mat
Recycled felt self adhesiv.
Thickness: 30mm


PYR70
Absorption mat PYR 70 1000 X 500 X 70 MM
Pyramid structure. Best reflection and resonance damping. Very suitable for the equipment of measuring rooms.
Surface: pyramidal
Area Weight: 30.00 kg / m²



TYROFOAM/30
TYROFOAM SG 30/140 245 x 325 x 30.0 mm
Heavy, high expansion foam cushioning for effective Airborne sound absorption. High effectiveness in the lower frequency ranges. For the assignment of loudspeaker cabinets. Also in connection with Bitumex.
Glue proposal with contact cement Interkoll L1534.
Density: 140.0 kg/m3
Dimensions: 245x325 mm


TYROTEX/30/1
TYROTEX N30 30KG/M3
1 mat 0.5 X 1M
Surface: convoluted
Colour: Anthracite
Dimensions: 1000 x 500 mm
Absorption according to DIN 522 21
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:00 AM
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Subscribed!

Have you ruled out polyfill for a reason?

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Old 05-09-2014, 11:02 AM
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Subscribed!

Have you ruled out polyfill for a reason?

Yeah I've heard good things about just using 3-4 pillows to smooth out resonances.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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No, no. This is just for covering the walls. For filling I'm going to use Visaton's polyester.
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cochinada View Post

No, no. This is just for covering the walls. For filling I'm going to use Visaton's polyester.

Did you mean coving the walls of your enclosure, or covering the walls in your room?

I would not recommend any of those for covering the walls of your theater room!

For that, you something like 4" of OC703 with a 4" air gap, or perhaps something like Safe-n-Sound in a similar fashion.
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Old 05-10-2014, 09:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Did you mean coving the walls of your enclosure, or covering the walls in your room?

I would not recommend any of those for covering the walls of your theater room!

For that, you something like 4" of OC703 with a 4" air gap, or perhaps something like Safe-n-Sound in a similar fashion.

Of my subwoofer of course. It's not enough to fill it. I don't have a theater room but a normal living one and don't intend to do anything about it.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi,

I've inquired about the bolts for mounting this driver as well as the minimum floor distance and got this answer from Sundown after a looooooooooooooong time waiting:

"if down firing I would recommend #8 bolts and use lock washers as well.
You would need at least 4" from floor to woofer.
in mm the distance from center to screw hole is 223mm"


So, after some research I found out that a #8 bolt is more or less the equivalent of an M4 (4mm). More exactly, #8 = 4.166mm.
I find it a little weak as for instance on the speakers I've build my 12" driver uses M5 (5mm) and is much lighter.

I've already asked if I can fit M5 but it will probably take a week or so to get an answer.

The good news is that at least the distance from the floor I got it right as I will have 5.9 inches.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:19 PM
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I used the visaton in my sub too, it is ok, though I needed 6 bags for 90 litres, so plan for a bit more than they say.

Also, why not use dowels with the M4s? Or Dübel auf Deutsch. I just used plastic ones from Toom, they hold like 50kg each, so 8 is bomb proof. Also much easier than lock washers.

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Old 05-13-2014, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by McStyvie View Post

I used the visaton in my sub too, it is ok, though I needed 6 bags for 90 litres, so plan for a bit more than they say.

Also, why not use dowels with the M4s? Or Dübel auf Deutsch. I just used plastic ones from Toom, they hold like 50kg each, so 8 is bomb proof. Also much easier than lock washers.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Yes, I'm also considering visaton or sonofil for filling, depending upon which better deal I can find. For the covering of the inside wall I think I'm going to use TYROFOAM/10.
In some places they say that one bag is good for 20l but I also read that 1.5 is best so this looks really more realistic.

I didn't understand your suggestion about the M4 and a dowel and I also don't know what is Dübel auf Deutsch although 50kg sounds very good! Are you talking about supporting the subwoofer like feet or mounting the driver?

I'm planning to use these for mounting the driver but the doubt is to whether I go for M4 or M5:

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Old 05-13-2014, 02:59 PM
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A plywood mounting baffle and 2" wood screws will work just fine. FWIW.

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Old 05-13-2014, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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This is what my subwoofer will look like. Instead of varnished baltic birch as planned it will be made of MDF and covered with cork panels.

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Old 05-14-2014, 01:25 AM
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this is what I mean:
Dübel

You drill the hole, drop that plastic bit in, and then the screw goes inside. Works a charm and is easier than trying to line up the holes for the ones you posted. i.e. if you drill slightly crooked, then you will have a hard time getting the screw to go into the lock at the bottom smoothly.

Hope that makes sense.

I gave you the German translation of "dowel" because you posted a link in German, so I thought you lived in Germany smile.gif
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Old 05-14-2014, 02:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McStyvie View Post

this is what I mean:
Dübel

You drill the hole, drop that plastic bit in, and then the screw goes inside. Works a charm and is easier than trying to line up the holes for the ones you posted. i.e. if you drill slightly crooked, then you will have a hard time getting the screw to go into the lock at the bottom smoothly.

Hope that makes sense.

I gave you the German translation of "dowel" because you posted a link in German, so I thought you lived in Germany smile.gif

Ah now I see! Very clever. The only problem is that with this woofer I don't have much space to drill a whole larger than the size of the screw because the holes are very close to the border of the driver. mad.gif

No, I live in Portugal but since we don't have almost anything here I need to by most material in Germany but I don't speak the language. smile.gif

Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:01 AM - Thread Starter
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@TheGiantPeach,

Hello, is it 0.6A and 12VDC enough for the transformer for the miniDSP or is it better to have more current?

Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cochinada View Post

@TheGiantPeach,

Hello, is it 0.6A and 12VDC enough for the transformer for the miniDSP or is it better to have more current?

Thanks!

According to their website, you need at least a 0.125A 12v supply, so you should be just fine with that. 

 

How are things going with this project? Have you started purchasing things yet?

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Old 05-19-2014, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks!

I've purchased almost everything right now except for the spikes. All I have to do is wait for all the things to arrive.
The cabinet for instance should be done on the first week of June but the driver will probably arrive only at the end of the month because as I was told Sundown has a 20 day manufacturing deadline and then it will ship to Italy and finally to me.
Anyway I should have the cabinets ready for mounting the drivers long time before that.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:20 PM
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That's awesome! I'm excited to see your progress and really excited for you to have some killer subs!

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Old 05-19-2014, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot! I'm also very curious and a bit nervous I confess, to see if these subs are really going to be as good as I hope.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cochinada View Post

Thanks a lot! I'm also very curious and a bit nervous I confess, to see if these subs are really going to be as good as I hope.

 

Yep, I felt exactly the same while building mine. But it ended up sounding better than I had hoped for. And at least on paper, yours should be far louder and lower than mine. 

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Old 05-21-2014, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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This guy doens' like high pass filters:

"It's important to note that, only a sealed subwoofer (with a system Q of 0.5 to 0.707) with it's inherent 12dB/octave roll off, can offer the optimal transient repsonse and a natually flat in-room response, albeit below the lowest room mode. Adding a high pass filter to protect the driver from excessive bottom end, internal EQ or tuned ports (which rotate phase) to boost output, ALL impact this requirement. The DXD12012 (and the 808) ticks these respective boxes, with it's internal EQ set to allow the resumption of the natural roll off, below 30Hz."

http://www.avforums.com/review/kreisel-sound-dxd-12012-and-quattro-stack-review.388
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Old 05-22-2014, 03:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Talking about filters, I've been reading the information about the miniDSP and it looks like I'm going to need to buy a plugin. mad.gif

Is this enough for the LT and HP and LP? Or do the LP and HP come with the box and don't need another plugin?

2way Advanced
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

- room gain will likely be coming in around 24hz or so, so if the response starts to roll off at that point in the winisd model, it is ok. the room will help boost it back up.

So, taking this into account, in theory the graph in red should be better as it achieves greater SPL and starts to roll off at about 25Hz or so. Agree?

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