V-10 Volt Coaxial Surround Build - AVS Forum
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DIY Speakers and Subs > V-10 Volt Coaxial Surround Build
G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 12:35 PM 05-02-2014

I'm about to embark on my first ever DIY speaker adventure.  Two months ago I didn't even know this was possible.  Today, I'm standing on the edge of the rabbit hole about to take the first step....

 

I have a low end HT today - I actually ended up in this forum looking to build a sub.  I'm waiting for the return of the SI 18's for that, so I figured I'd start working on something else.  I needed surrounds, and the Volts have been mentioned as easy to build so I figured "why not?"   I'm a relatively handy guy so I figured it wasn't that much of a risk.  I will say it's been a long, long time since I've soldered so I'm a bit nervous about the crossover part.  The rest looks pretty straightforward.

 

I figured I'd create a thread for a couple reasons.  First, I'm positive I'll need all your help and advice as I go.  Second, there isn't an instruction manual for these so maybe someone else new to DIY will stumble across this thread (and the other Volt threads) and get some benefit from it.  So I'm going to try and keep my progress/steps pretty well documented.

 

So to start with an obligatory picture - my box from Erich came yesterday.  I always kind of rolled my eyes when people gushed about his packaging, but I've now changed my opinion.  I think Amazon could take some lessons from him.  What's even more telling is that he emailed me this morning and apologized because his helper didn't put in all the protective packaging that was supposed to be in my box.  I would have never guessed - it looked solid to me.

 

I'm going to be diving in this weekend.  I'm planning on painting the baffle black, then veneering the sides and staining.

 



dtsdig's Avatar dtsdig 01:21 PM 05-02-2014
Hey there! No worries, you'll get through just fine! Oddly enough, the email you got may be because my volts that were delivered to my house today had one back panel damaged due to the same reason. After contacting Erich, he thought it best to give a heads up to any others that were packaged by his helper that day. Erich is one hell of a guy!

I pretty much have the exact same plan as you. Black baffle, veneered box.
I just put the crossovers together this afternoon and they are a piece of cake! It's way different [easier] than wiring up something like the crossovers for the Tux-1099 on your own! Just makes sure to let your iron dwell a bit on each connection because the solderable areas (the lands) are quite large so they can take a few seconds to get hot enough to wet thoroughly with solder. Some of the leads are not exactly small either, especially the inductor.

biggrin.gif
Mr. Electric Wiz's Avatar Mr. Electric Wiz 01:53 PM 05-02-2014
Do you guys have a phone conversation with Erich to decide which kit to buy, or do you just pick one and go for it?
I will probably be buying some of his kits for my L/C/R but I have no idea which ones I want.
They seem like they are all awesome.
Erich H's Avatar Erich H 01:53 PM 05-02-2014
Spring time is always busy with landscaping and spring cleanups. To get caught up I had one of my friends tape up some boxes and get the flat packs and woofers ready. He put the flat packs in the box and the woofers on top and I didn't see that none of those strong pallet corner protectors were put in like I always use.

Dtsdig send me an email saying one of his corners got dinged, which is very.....very rare. cool.gif After double checking, I figured out how it happened and emailed some other people just to be sure theirs were okay. I think all the others are okay, which is good.
JohnDean's Avatar JohnDean 03:01 PM 05-02-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Electric Wiz View Post

Do you guys have a phone conversation with Erich to decide which kit to buy, or do you just pick one and go for it?
I will probably be buying some of his kits for my L/C/R but I have no idea which ones I want.
They seem like they are all awesome.


Read the specs and/or start a thread with your goals. If you hang around long enough and read similar threads from others, you'll start to grasp the differences and pick-up on the compromises that are relevant to your goals and constraints.
G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 05:17 PM 05-02-2014

I figured I might as well get my feet wet and start so I've got one speaker glued up and clamped now.  The angled top makes for some interesting angles, so here's hoping a 50lb bag of dog food works.  I did a poor job of cleaning up the glue squeeze-out, but I figure I'll be sanding them and gluing on veneer so I don't need to be as meticulous as if I was actually staining the wood. 

 

 

 


G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 05:20 PM 05-02-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post

Hey there! No worries, you'll get through just fine! Oddly enough, the email you got may be because my volts that were delivered to my house today had one back panel damaged due to the same reason. After contacting Erich, he thought it best to give a heads up to any others that were packaged by his helper that day. Erich is one hell of a guy!

 

 

 

Thanks for the words of encouragement!  I'll be curious to hear how yours turn out.  What type of veneer were you thinking?


dtsdig's Avatar dtsdig 06:27 PM 05-02-2014
The plan right now is to use figured cherry. We'll see, the plan has changed many times! Lol.
sampsdds's Avatar sampsdds 07:58 PM 05-02-2014
Just opened up my V-10s today as well. Very glad that this thread has been started as I will likely need to follow each step to get these suckers assembled smile.gif
Is there any need for any type of insulation within the enclosure?
Fattykidd's Avatar Fattykidd 08:47 PM 05-02-2014
What are the dimensions on the angled enclosures your using?
sampsdds's Avatar sampsdds 09:18 PM 05-02-2014
The DIY flat pack is 14"x14"x about 10.5" tapering down to about 6.5" on the front baffle
G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 05:32 AM 05-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by sampsdds View Post

Is there any need for any type of insulation within the enclosure?

 

I had that same question myself.  I'd considered throwing some polyfill in but wasn't sure.  I also was wondering if I needed to gasket the driver and caulk the seams good like you see in subs.    Hopefully someone will chime in. 


G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 12:05 PM 05-03-2014

So I have a couple submissions for the world's worst solder job ever prize.  It's funny how you can watch 100 YouTube videos and it looks so easy, but try it yourself and it's the most challenging thing in the world.  I used a 25w soldering iron and 0.6 mm 63/37 solder.  I had a beast of a time getting the tip tinned. 

 

I'd appreciate someone with a more experienced eye taking a look and making sure I don't have anything going on that's going to be a show stopper. For easy identification, I'm calling the board with the pen in it Board 2. 

 

I've picked up some 16 gauge wire for the leads going to the driver and terminals. I'll tackle that later.  Need to get outside and enjoy this weather!

 

 

 

 


chalugadp's Avatar chalugadp 12:26 PM 05-03-2014
If you want the Hershey kiss type of solder joint do this. Put the soldering iron on the connection for 3 seconds before you add solder. This heats up the metal nicely. Then add solder, take away solder while leaving the iron there. Then the solder will flow around the connection perfectly.

Your solders are not bad. Trust me I've seen a lot worse from students.
HopefulFred's Avatar HopefulFred 12:28 PM 05-03-2014
I've got worse in my speakers right now; doing just fine too, thankyouverymuch.
sampsdds's Avatar sampsdds 12:46 PM 05-03-2014
Any way you could add a couple of pics of the other side of those boards?? You are my V-10 -guiding-light man! wink.gif
Mrkazador's Avatar Mrkazador 01:00 PM 05-03-2014

Hard to see but it looks like there are some cold solder joints, the solder is not adhering properly to the component. 

 

 


Erich H's Avatar Erich H 01:01 PM 05-03-2014
Here's the other side. MTG90 took this one to help people assemble them easier.


G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 02:43 PM 05-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by sampsdds View Post

Any way you could add a couple of pics of the other side of those boards?? You are my V-10 -guiding-light man! wink.gif

 

Man, if I'm your guiding light... well, what's that saying about the light at then end of the tunnel?  Be careful, it might be a train.....   :eek:  

 

I learned something recently that I thought I'd share, because I've never seen it explicitly said in the forums.  I'd always wondered why I didn't see more crossover pics, because that's the hardest part IMO.  Turns out the crossovers are somewhat akin to the designer's intellectual property.  Most of us that are halfway handy could go out to Erich's site, look at the flat pack dimensions and the drivers and physically build something that looks like a Volt.  But it's the crossover that's the secret sauce that makes it all gel together.  Which is why you rarely see a crossover posted on a forum.  That's how it was explained to me - and I can respect that.  If I'm off on the reasoning behind it, maybe someone who's more in the know will chime in. 

 

I finished up the wire leads coming off the circuit board after mowing the lawn.  16 gauge wire fits perfectly in the holes FYI.  It's a tight fit, but with a little finesse it will go in. 


G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 02:45 PM 05-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post
 

Hard to see but it looks like there are some cold solder joints, the solder is not adhering properly to the component. 

 

 

Thanks!  I'll take a closer look at those then. 


Martycool007's Avatar Martycool007 03:19 PM 05-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Money1572 View Post

Man, if I'm your guiding light... well, what's that saying about the light at then end of the tunnel?  Be careful, it might be a train.....   eek.gif   

I learned something recently that I thought I'd share, because I've never seen it explicitly said in the forums.  I'd always wondered why I didn't see more crossover pics, because that's the hardest part IMO.  Turns out the crossovers are somewhat akin to the designer's intellectual property.  Most of us that are halfway handy could go out to Erich's site, look at the flat pack dimensions and the drivers and physically build something that looks like a Volt.  But it's the crossover that's the secret sauce that makes it all gel together.  Which is why you rarely see a crossover posted on a forum.  That's how it was explained to me - and I can respect that.  If I'm off on the reasoning behind it, maybe someone who's more in the know will chime in. 

I finished up the wire leads coming off the circuit board after mowing the lawn.  16 gauge wire fits perfectly in the holes FYI.  It's a tight fit, but with a little finesse it will go in. 

That is a non issue as these speaker kits are not sold for profit. These designers are doing this work for free! They don't care who knows how their crossovers are assembled. Who ever told you this did not know much, if anything, about the DIYSG guys!
Erich H's Avatar Erich H 03:41 PM 05-03-2014
Actually Martycool007, some crossover designs shouldn't be posted because there's a lot of work that went into them. There were discussions on the PE forums in the past about small companies stealing crossover designs. So whether it's for profit or not, that would still stink. That's why some are openly posted, but some are not.
moosifee's Avatar moosifee 03:46 PM 05-03-2014
Right. Just because it's free doesn't mean it's open source.
mtg90's Avatar mtg90 04:17 PM 05-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by sampsdds View Post

Is there any need for any type of insulation within the enclosure?

You should add some form of damping material in the enclosure, polyfill/batting, recycled cotton (my material of choice), fiberglass, mineral wool, or acoustic foam.
Martycool007's Avatar Martycool007 07:15 PM 05-03-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Actually Martycool007, some crossover designs shouldn't be posted because there's a lot of work that went into them. There were discussions on the PE forums in the past about small companies stealing crossover designs. So whether it's for profit or not, that would still stink. That's why some are openly posted, but some are not.

I stand corrected! smile.gif
Boxozaxu's Avatar Boxozaxu 10:41 AM 05-04-2014

Good luck on your build! I think a lot of people will find this thread very helpful.

 

Do you plan to use any of the volts for wides or heights?

 

The reason I'm asking is because mine are going into a soffit so, if I add any wide or height speakers, they'll be at the same height as the surrounds/rears. Just wondering if it's still worth while to add any wides or heights in this case.


G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 02:52 PM 05-04-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxozaxu View Post
 

Good luck on your build! I think a lot of people will find this thread very helpful.

 

Do you plan to use any of the volts for wides or heights?

 

The reason I'm asking is because mine are going into a soffit so, if I add any wide or height speakers, they'll be at the same height as the surrounds/rears. Just wondering if it's still worth while to add any wides or heights in this case.

 

 

I'm not - these will be R and L surrounds.  Unfortunately, I'm not enough of a speaker guy to answer your question either.  Sorry!


G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 03:14 PM 05-04-2014

Well, the weekend's over so I figured I'd recap.  I've probably spent 2-3 hours and the crossovers are soldered up and I've got one box glued up.  I would have liked to have gotten the second one glued up but the back of one of my speakers appears to have fallen prey to the same packaging omission that dtsdig and Erich mentioned earlier.  A corner of the mdf was separated / cracked. I've got a note in to Erich to see if it's possible to get a new one.

 

When I soldered the wire leads into the crossover I switched soldering iron tips to one that looked like a flat head screwdriver.  It was very easy to tin that tip and it seemed to do a better job of heating the joints.  I also went back and tried to evaluate my old solder joints and redid a couple that looked like they might be cold solders.  I can say I just don't have a good eye yet for evaluating solder joints.   I don't know if I ever will, it's not like I'm going to be doing a ton of soldering.

 

What I can say so far is that this has been a very straightforward project.  I'd agree with the assessment it's a good beginner speaker.  The crossover schematic is Greek to me, but all you really need is the picture that Erich posted. 

 

This week's going to be a bit crazy and then I'm gone all weekend so I may not make a ton of progress in the next seven days.  But so far, so good.  I('m excited for the next part - simply because it's going to start looking like a speaker. 


dtsdig's Avatar dtsdig 05:50 PM 05-04-2014
Wait until you hear it! Coming from my polk setup, it's astounding! I had the single Volt and my two subs playing for about 6 or 7 hours yesterday and I just can't believe how much clean sound can come out of a single one!
G-Money1572's Avatar G-Money1572 07:54 PM 05-11-2014

Figured I'd provide a bit of an update.  As predicted, last week was crazy and I just got back home tonight.  I made a little progress on the speakers though.

 

Crossovers are installed in the cabs.  I used #4 x 3/4 screws to hold them in.  The holes on the corners for the screws were a little tight, so I enlarged them slightly with a 9/64th drill bit.  I just picked up some 20 cent nylon spacers at the hardware store to use to keep the crossover elevated off the wood (donut looking things in picture).  I just put them between the crossover and the wood, and the screw goes through the hole.  I think it's probably overkill, but it's not breaking the bank.

 

I also caulked the joints.  I wasn't 100% sure that was necessary either, but I figure the $2.50 for a thing of caulk won't break the bank.  I've never been able to caulk worth a darn, and I did my usual sloppy mess job here.  I'm assuming I cut the tip too large. No one's going to see it, so I'm not going to sweat it. 

 

I bought some female .250 tab quick connect terminals to crimp on the end of the crossover wiring so I could hook up my drivers/terminal cup.  They fit perfectly on the tweeter, but are too big for both the woofer and the terminal cup.  I'm guessing they must be 0.1875 terminals on those.  Or at least that's what I'm going to try first. 

 

Up for this week.... Routing holes for the terminal cup.  I want to flush mount it, so I'll need to route a circle deep enough to hold the outer lip of the cup, then cut the hole for the body of the cup.  Then I'm going to get the front baffle glued on.  We'll save sanding/filling for the weekend.  Then, I guess I'm on to veneering.  Still thinking about how I want to do that. 

 

Couple random pics attached.  Nothing too exciting

 

 

 

 

 


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