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post #271 of 324 Old 09-21-2014, 07:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Face2 has sent me a measurement and here is what he had to say about the drivers:

"Ignore the dip at 650, that's diffraction from and edge along thw baffle, something I intend on fixing in the next day or two. As for below 250, distortion is rising due to the infinite baffle and lack of enclosure behind. With a sealed enclosure, I would recommend crossing over to your TD18's @ 120hz.

I listened to some music on it and I was very impressed. Very clean and clear. Definitely more detailed than my SEOS12/DNA360/TD10M front stage."



I did not mention that this is a 2 meter measurement.
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post #272 of 324 Old 09-21-2014, 08:07 AM
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Mike,

You must be excited. I'm excited for you. I immensely enjoy the TD12M/SEOS DNA 360 combo and can't imagine what these sound like.

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post #273 of 324 Old 09-21-2014, 01:45 PM
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Are there polars or a sonogram for the TPL-150H?

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post #274 of 324 Old 09-22-2014, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post
Are there polars or a sonogram for the TPL-150H?
Not that I am aware of.

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post #275 of 324 Old 09-26-2014, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post
Are there polars or a sonogram for the TPL-150H?
Only out to 60 degrees, sorry. I may have to pick up a pair of these for myself.

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post #276 of 324 Old 09-26-2014, 04:20 PM
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Mike I thought the TPL had more oomph down at 1.5 and less. Looks down more than 10db ?
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post #277 of 324 Old 09-26-2014, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
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Mike I thought the TPL had more oomph down at 1.5 and less. Looks down more than 10db ?
Sorry I should have stated that the back plates are off just like Mike (the OP) has in his setup. I also need to double check that the blocking cap isn't rolling off the driver early. Besides, I would cross these below 1600.
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post #278 of 324 Old 09-26-2014, 07:53 PM
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I think you meant I wouldn't use them below 1600hz. Huh, I thought it could take more than that. Distortion or response or what?

You seem impressed with the sound. I'm guessing you'd use it similar to Mike (OP Mike)?
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post #279 of 324 Old 09-26-2014, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2 View Post
Sorry I should have stated that the back plates are off just like Mike (the OP) has in his setup. I also need to double check that the blocking cap isn't rolling off the driver early. Besides, I would cross these below 1600.
Back is off, but the TPL-150H is in a sealed compartment. Just providing a larger chamber that is dampened and stuffed. I was coming here to post that polar will be provided. Did not know that Face2 had already posted.

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post #280 of 324 Old 09-27-2014, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
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Mike I thought the TPL had more oomph down at 1.5 and less. Looks down more than 10db ?
I have read of some folks trying to use a 1,200hz crossover point from the TPL-150 to "x" or "y" mid's/woofers and the general sentiment seems to be that 1,200hz is too low and produces some nonlinearities or problems in the frequency response that makes crossing it that low a poor choice for SQ.

I have a buddy that is using them crossed at 1,700 hz and he likes them there, but, he said any lower just didn't sound right.,
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post #281 of 324 Old 09-29-2014, 05:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I have moved them up to 1,800hz crossover using LR2 slopes. I am giving up some directivity, but it does sound very good. Better than the 2-way that was using the SEOS-12 with DNA360. Since I have absorption panels on the walls and heavy floor to ceiling velvet drapes also on the side walls, losing some directivity may not be the end of the world.

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post #282 of 324 Old 09-29-2014, 07:21 AM
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How do you feel the sound differs from the SEOS/dna 360?

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post #283 of 324 Old 09-29-2014, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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The upper end is clearer and more distinct. Musical instruments sound more like actual instruments. Also going to the TD18H is a nice improvement in the 40hz to 200hz area. Cleaner sounding bass with more impact. All my subs are used for below 40hz on the mains and will be on the center once that is in place. For surrounds, I still cross at 80hz.

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post #284 of 324 Old 09-30-2014, 07:43 AM
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Man that sure looks great Mike! Congrats!

I saw you replied to the screen question but didn't quite understand exactly what type of material the screen is made of. Could you elaborate on the screen one more time please?
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post #285 of 324 Old 09-30-2014, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Man that sure looks great Mike! Congrats!

I saw you replied to the screen question but didn't quite understand exactly what type of material the screen is made of. Could you elaborate on the screen one more time please?
My screen fabric is Screen Excellence EN4K. I have a curved screen with masking system. Gain of the fabric is right around 0.85. Screen is 107" wide 2.40 aspect ratio. What else are you wanting to know?

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post #286 of 324 Old 09-30-2014, 08:58 AM
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My screen fabric is Screen Excellence EN4K. I have a curved screen with masking system. Gain of the fabric is right around 0.85. Screen is 107" wide 2.40 aspect ratio. What else are you wanting to know?
That's it just the fabric and basics. Thanks!
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post #287 of 324 Old 09-30-2014, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Measurement of speaker. Here is what Face2 had to say about it.

"Slight narrowing between 2-3k, but that's the price you pay to make this ribbon sound best, IMO. Fortunately AE's woofers are very clean, this wouldn't have worked with any other 12's that I'm aware of."

Though I am running this active, I also have a passive crossover design.

When I asked about using other woofers, Face2 had this to say:

"Directivity isn't everything, especially in a treated HT. In a reflective room things could get wonky depending on where the discontinuity is and it's severity.

I tried crossing lower and while it measured better, it didn't sound better IMO.

Technically a pair of 8's would be a better match, but you would be giving up some dynamics and efficiency. Plus, I don't know what the backlog is on those as I haven't read about anyone receiving a pair yet. And as for going down to 10's, don't bother, it wouldn't be that much of a difference."


I like the dynamics, so I definitely would not consider going to 8's.
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post #288 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 08:13 AM
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Is he planning on building out the passive XO design. I would likely be in for three if the price in right If not, the schematic would be awesome

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post #289 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 08:37 AM
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A schematic is a possibility.
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post #290 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 08:46 AM
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Would the difference between the 12m and 12x make it a large enough difference that something would need to be changed with it?

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post #291 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 08:57 AM
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Besides efficiency, I'm unsure. I also don't know if the 12X is as well behaved up top, I would need to measure them or speak to someone who has both. It may be a long shot, but I have both 15M and 15X drivers here, I can compare them at a later date.
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post #292 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 08:58 AM
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Would the difference between the 12m and 12x make it a large enough difference that something would need to be changed with it?
I'm afraid so. They have different Re from one another.

While it could work as a drop in (your X's) they may not be optimally set for a crossover designed with the M version in mind. So it's the argument of it being either 'just works' or 'works as intended'.

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Yep, didn't think about the different models of mids here... anyone wanna trade 3 for 3? Haha

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post #294 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 10:24 AM
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Yep, didn't think about the different models of mids here... anyone wanna trade 3 for 3? Haha
What's wrong with your super impressive and already made SEOS/TD12x system, Beast?

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post #295 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 10:36 AM
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I like what I am hearing from the sound coming out of the ribbons. I have the NEO:3's in the LS-6 and I know how much I like that sound for music, so thought I might build out a box similar to see what it is all about

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post #296 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 10:41 AM
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Ah. Gotcha!

I'd always thought about using the TPL-150H just like Mike is using for my system but knew I'd never afford it. It's part of the reason why my system is full active and modular.


Sometime, sometime...

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I was looking at the fountek neo horn loaded ribbons and though they would make for a fun little project, and not something that would break the bank, but could still go plenty loud and likely sound quite nice. Literally removed my mouse from the "Place order" button at least several times.

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post #298 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 10:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah. Gotcha!

I'd always thought about using the TPL-150H just like Mike is using for my system but knew I'd never afford it. It's part of the reason why my system is full active and modular.


Sometime, sometime...
Since you are thinking about going baffle wall, build what you can live with for a long time. That is why I decided to go all out. It is a pain to change out. I have made mine modular, as in I can pull out the box and build a new drop in box, but still a pain. Especially when you have to pull a masking system and screen to do so. In other words, I don't plan on changing this system out for a long/long time. I even ran individual wires for the drivers for each speaker, to an area outside of the baffle wall. This is so that I can add a passive crossover later, without taking everything apart to get internally to the speakers.

I still have to pull everything one last time to install the drivers in the center channel, but that will be it for a while.

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post #299 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I was looking at the fountek neo horn loaded ribbons and though they would make for a fun little project, and not something that would break the bank, but could still go plenty loud and likely sound quite nice. Literally removed my mouse from the "Place order" button at least several times.
Those will require a smaller mid, since I bet they have to be crossed around 3K. You could build a nice little 3-way to play with.

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post #300 of 324 Old 10-01-2014, 11:00 AM
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Heheh. No kidding, Mike! If I were to build a baffle wall like yours that is what I'd do. That is hardcore what you built.

Nah, I was going to be more lazy. Probably something simple like pegboard then on top of that cover with R13 and then on top of that some black velvet. It would get the job done and be less of a build. I'm waiting for this particular material to come out so I won't do anything until it's time to put the screen up in which case I probably won't change anything for some time.

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