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post #211 of 236 Old 08-13-2014, 03:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Framing is pretty much finished. Need to stuff cavities with fiberglass insulation and install the 3/4" MDF on the face. Everything is screwed in place. No nails used.
[IMG][/IMG]
I do need to finish some minor work on the boxes. Damping applied to the back of the sub boxes and stuffing. Then one of the speaker boxes needs stuffing. I ran out of material and need to pick up some.

Added
Tracking shows the drivers arriving at Face2's place this Friday. The drivers headed my way are also arriving this Friday. While my TD12M's took a long time to get here, the TD18H+ I ordered 7-22-14 is also arriving Friday. That means I have some new boxes to build.

Note that the framing where the speakers are located is very beefy. I have two horizontal beams located at top and bottom of speakers. The beams are four stacked 2x6's and three stacked 2x4's. The 2x4's form a ledge for the vertical 2x4's. Two groups of five vertical 2x4's on each side of the center channel and then double 2 x 4's studs at all other speakers. Everything is screwed to studs. Area under baffle wall is open, but baffle wall will be sealed. The area below is where the TD18H's will go and also one more 18" sub.

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post #212 of 236 Old 08-13-2014, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
If Face2 is reading: hey, did you win the iron driver event this year? I wasn't following but thought I saw something about that.
Yes, that was me.

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post #213 of 236 Old 08-14-2014, 04:32 AM - Thread Starter
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For those that are wondering what Tux is talking about: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...33#post1961433

Added
Face2, your speaker looks great and performed very well. Congrats.

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post #214 of 236 Old 08-14-2014, 08:14 AM
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Ya, that's it. The event requires people to all use the same driver (iron driver) and the listening session is done blind. The only speaker competition I'm aware of that does that. Only been done twice now. I didn't get to enter this year as I was to busy and shipping speakers from Canada isn't exactly practicle! That and I didn't want to get spanked by Face's speaker
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post #215 of 236 Old 08-14-2014, 05:43 PM
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Mike do you live in KY? I'm originally from the Owensboro area but have now moved down to Orlando to work for the mouse. I still miss the fall weather in KY but not the winter so much
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post #216 of 236 Old 08-14-2014, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Mike do you live in KY? I'm originally from the Owensboro area but have now moved down to Orlando to work for the mouse. I still miss the fall weather in KY but not the winter so much
Yes. I was half way to Owensboro tonight. My son had a soccer game in Morgantown.

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post #217 of 236 Old 08-14-2014, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
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Mike do you live in KY? I'm originally from the Owensboro area but have now moved down to Orlando to work for the mouse. I still miss the fall weather in KY but not the winter so much
I worked for WaxWorks at one time.

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post #218 of 236 Old 08-15-2014, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Framing is 100% complete. Just need to cut and fit face panels, then apply 1" insulation. Then I can install drivers in the mains and put the screen and masking back. Will be running phantom center, until Face2 gets done with the drivers I sent him. Later I will need to build four new boxes for the three TD18H's and one Mal-X 18".

Added
Received one TD12M and one TD18H. I have enough drivers in house to finish the mains.

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post #219 of 236 Old 08-15-2014, 02:28 PM
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Pics or it didn't happen

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post #220 of 236 Old 08-16-2014, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Pics of completed framing.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Insulation of cavity.
[IMG][/IMG]

Started installing panels.
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I measured each panel and then went to the shop (15 miles away) and cut all of the panels. Messed up the smallest panel on the face. The one below the right front speaker. Will have to re-cut that one. Still have to finish screwing panels in place. Then do a little caulking and painting.
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post #221 of 236 Old 08-16-2014, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
Pics or it didn't happen
Driver pics will have to wait. Too busy working on the baffle wall. Besides, going to hit some tennis with my son tonight.

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post #222 of 236 Old 08-16-2014, 03:37 PM
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Nice work Mike! I can't wait to see the pics with all of the drivers installed!

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JTR Noesis 228HT (LCR)
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post #223 of 236 Old 08-17-2014, 08:07 AM
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Hey Mike, what kind of material are you using to cover the finished baffle wall? I am assuming some kind of fabric? If so, what kind?

I am starting my Seos-15 speaker build this week as a really nice forum member loaned me his mic so that I could take measurements!

With that being said, I should be starting on the baffle wall in my dedicated theater soon. I have never built one so I have no idea what to cover it with? I will likely place 1" or 2" absorption material over the entire front of the baffle wall, but, I have no idea how to cover it once it's completed? Speaker grill fabric, perhaps? What is best to use and is fairly easy to use?
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post #224 of 236 Old 08-17-2014, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
Hey Mike, what kind of material are you using to cover the finished baffle wall? I am assuming some kind of fabric? If so, what kind?

I am starting my Seos-15 speaker build this week as a really nice forum member loaned me his mic so that I could take measurements!

With that being said, I should be starting on the baffle wall in my dedicated theater soon. I have never built one so I have no idea what to cover it with? I will likely place 1" or 2" absorption material over the entire front of the baffle wall, but, I have no idea how to cover it once it's completed? Speaker grill fabric, perhaps? What is best to use and is fairly easy to use?
My speaker front baffles are made with an inner layer of 3/4" MDO (medium density overlay). Stronger stiffer material than regular 3/4" plywood. The outer baffle is 3/4" MDF. The Outer baffle is larger than the box and is the flange for attaching to the framing. The speaker/sub boxes sit on a solid wood beam that is going across the front wall. There is a second solid wood beam at the top of the speakers/subs and studs running in between the two beams. The rest of the wall is just covered with one layer of 3/4" MDF. You can see the covered wall in one of the above pictures. The bottom of the baffle wall returns to the wall, so that the area behind the baffle wall is sealed off and cavities in the baffle wall are stuffed with insulation. Under the baffle wall, I will have the TD18H drivers and one Mal-X-18" sub.

Area behind the screen will have 1" of black duct liner insulation and the area above the screen will be painted black. At some point, I will probably make some bass traps to run horizontal where the baffle wall meets the ceiling. These panels would be placed on a 45 degree angle. Once the panels are placed at the top, you will not be able to see any of the baffle wall, It will be covered with screen and upper part covered with bass traps. So I am not covering the wall. Very little shows, once the screen is installed.

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post #225 of 236 Old 08-17-2014, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Installed the last piece on the baffle wall and have painted the baffle wall black.
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post #226 of 236 Old 08-18-2014, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post
My speaker front baffles are made with an inner layer of 3/4" MDO (medium density overlay). Stronger stiffer material than regular 3/4" plywood. The outer baffle is 3/4" MDF. The Outer baffle is larger than the box and is the flange for attaching to the framing. The speaker/sub boxes sit on a solid wood beam that is going across the front wall. There is a second solid wood beam at the top of the speakers/subs and studs running in between the two beams. The rest of the wall is just covered with one layer of 3/4" MDF. You can see the covered wall in one of the above pictures. The bottom of the baffle wall returns to the wall, so that the area behind the baffle wall is sealed off and cavities in the baffle wall are stuffed with insulation. Under the baffle wall, I will have the TD18H drivers and one Mal-X-18" sub.

Area behind the screen will have 1" of black duct liner insulation and the area above the screen will be painted black. At some point, I will probably make some bass traps to run horizontal where the baffle wall meets the ceiling. These panels would be placed on a 45 degree angle. Once the panels are placed at the top, you will not be able to see any of the baffle wall, It will be covered with screen and upper part covered with bass traps. So I am not covering the wall. Very little shows, once the screen is installed.
So let me see if I got this straight. You have double baffles and the outer baffle is oversized with a built in flange that helps secure it to the framing. Then you have MDF on the front of the baffle wall that sits even with the flanges from the speakers, at least I assume that the front baffle flanges are set even with the baffle walks 3/4" MDF face as if that was not the case then you would be having major diffraction issues?

Is your screen big enough to cover the entire baffle wall? If not, How are you going to cover the exposed areas of the baffle wall, like on the sides where the screen ends and on the bottom below the screen? Are you using any particular fabric?

I am trying to find a suitable material to cover my baffle wall as my screen is 110" and the wall is 14ft wide. Any suggestions on any particular troupes of fabric or other methods to make it look nice?
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post #227 of 236 Old 08-18-2014, 06:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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So let me see if I got this straight. You have double baffles and the outer baffle is oversized with a built in flange that helps secure it to the framing. Then you have MDF on the front of the baffle wall that sits even with the flanges from the speakers, at least I assume that the front baffle flanges are set even with the baffle walks 3/4" MDF face as if that was not the case then you would be having major diffraction issues?

Is your screen big enough to cover the entire baffle wall? If not, How are you going to cover the exposed areas of the baffle wall, like on the sides where the screen ends and on the bottom below the screen? Are you using any particular fabric?

I am trying to find a suitable material to cover my baffle wall as my screen is 110" and the wall is 14ft wide. Any suggestions on any particular troupes of fabric or other methods to make it look nice?
Yes the flanges of the speakers meet up with 3/4" MDF panels.
The bottom is open and I have the TD18's and my Mal-X 18" there. Those will be covered with grill cloth.
The screen frame is 13.5" away from each side wall and I have velvet curtains that cover most of this. What is not covered is black, so it will not be seen.
The top 13" that shows above the screen is flat black MDF panels, so that area really will not be seen, but plan to cover the top area with absorption panels or bass traps.

Generally you isolate the speakers from the baffle wall, but in reality all of it is coupled together if the baffle wall and the wall behind the baffle wall are tied to the same structure. Since my room is a second floor room and the floor moves a lot, due to all of my large subs. I went with a different approach. My baffle wall does not connect to the floor. The front wall to my room is load bearing 2x6 studs. Also that wall has a 5' wide x 36" deep chase on the back side of it (centered on the front wall), so the front wall of the room does not move very much.

Then I installed a couple of horizontal beams on this wall. Since these beams are not much farther apart than the speaker height, the 2x4 studs between the beams are only about 52" long. The studs are grouped in pairs and in a couple of places a group of five. The front baffle is also angled on the ends and tied to the side walls (also load bearing) to add some more rigidity to the baffle wall. Since the floor moves a lot, the baffle wall is not tied to the floor. It is only tied to load bearing walls. So all of this to say, I am trying to build a very rigid baffle wall.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

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post #228 of 236 Old 08-20-2014, 07:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Duct liner is in place. Starting to install drivers. Will take a pic tomorrow, showing the drivers in place, except center will be missing.

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post #229 of 236 Old 08-21-2014, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Drivers for mains and subs are in place.
[IMG][/IMG]

I still have to rebuild the boxes that have the TD18's in them, build another box for the TD18H for center and rebuild the box for my Mal-X-18". Will probably not do that for a little while. At least I will wait until I have the center in place and this system some what dialed in. With four boxes to build and possible trapezoidal shaped ones at that, now is the time I would love to have a CNC.

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post #230 of 236 Old 08-21-2014, 11:16 AM
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Looks great!
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post #231 of 236 Old 08-21-2014, 11:45 AM
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+1! Incredibly clean looking. Love it.

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post #232 of 236 Old 08-21-2014, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Screen and masking system now back up. Will take pic tomorrow.
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post #233 of 236 Old Yesterday, 06:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Still need to build new boxes for drivers below screen, so that I can fit a fourth box in there.
[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Have to insert the second MiniDSP10x10HD into the rack, make connections and do the programming. Hope to do this tonight, but will probably end up being a Saturday job.

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What brand screen is that again?

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post #235 of 236 Old Yesterday, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What brand screen is that again?
Prismasonic frame and masking system. CNC frame from zero void Baltic Birch. We are a Prismasonic dealer. You could retrofit one of their flat masking systems to a DIY screen very easily.

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post #236 of 236 Old Yesterday, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the mains wired up and threw a crossover into the MiniDSP. Sounds pretty good and I do not even have it set up yet. The ribbon sounds very clear. Like what I am hearing so far. Also ran it up to reference levels to see how the baffle wall performed. No noise from the baffle wall even with the two 18's pumping pretty good. Now I need to start working on setting it up.
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