Piano Black UXL-18 in 4 cu. ft. sealed box - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
 
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yea, there's no info in the instructions or data sheet so that's why I'm asking. The thinner they say to use is just "urethane thinner", but I can't buy that
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post #62 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 10:04 AM
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yea, there's no info in the instructions or data sheet so that's why I'm asking. The thinner they say to use is just "urethane thinner", but I can't buy that

What paint/primer did you buy? Look for an MSDS , which is a Materials Safety Data Sheet and should have the info you are looking for.
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post #63 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Transtar, I have the MSDS it doesn't say haha. I called the paint store I bought the paint at, he said lacquer thinner is best. Acetone is too harsh. He didn't believe me that home depot sold it though lol.
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post #64 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 11:30 AM
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Which Transtar primer did you end up getting? Is there a part number on the container?

On their website it looks like they have "lay man's" data sheets for their products that tell you information for cleaning and other things the MSDS doesn't.
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post #65 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 11:49 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Transtar euro classic black 2 part primer 7374/7357

Transtar jet black base coat 9504/6714-F

Transtar Kwik finish clear 6574/6877

I bought this http://www.homedepot.ca/product/lacquer-thinner-946-ml/912212
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post #66 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 12:38 PM
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Hopefully that lacquer thinner works, if the guy at the paint store said it should, I would believe him.
My only advice for cleaning is putting the thinner in a spray bottle. Uses a lot less and you don't have to worry about spilling.
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post #67 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
 
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I'm just cleaning the gun with it so I'm just gonna run it through the gun and soak it for a bit.
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post #68 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
 
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15 dollar paint booth


Speakon connector flush mounted


100% ready to paint now, have mask, hvlp, paint, box 100% sanded. Going to primer Friday night and Saturday Morning probably, then bring inside and hook up amp and drop in the driver Saturday night, and will use it for the next month or two to make sure seams don't come through. If seams come through, I will probably trench them with a router and bondo them and re-primer. I really hope they don't.
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post #69 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 06:05 PM
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15 dollar paint booth


Speakon connector flush mounted


100% ready to paint now, have mask, hvlp, paint, box 100% sanded. Going to primer Friday night and Saturday Morning probably, then bring inside and hook up amp and drop in the driver Saturday night, and will use it for the next month or two to make sure seams don't come through. If seams come through, I will probably trench them with a router and bondo them and re-primer. I really hope they don't.

Nice job! I will say that I'm considering recessing my Speakon connectors since they stick out so far when you plug in the Speakon speaker wire connector. Like 2" or so straight out.
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post #70 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
 
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ya. it doesn't change it that much it's like a 1/4" recess. I just free hand routed it so it's a bit off-size so I bondo'd it, it won't be perfectly smooth but it shouldn't be noticeable once painted and when the connectors plugged in. Not like anyone can see the bottom back anyways haha. Actually now that I think about it, it probably wouldn't have been that bad to do it way deeper so you can put it on a wall or something if you need to. Oh well this sub will be like 4 feet from any wall so it will be fine.
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post #71 of 85 Old 05-22-2014, 07:44 PM
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Cool. Yeah, mine are in a builtin at the front of the room so I actually had to switch from Speakon to a recessed cup with speaker terminals.
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post #72 of 85 Old 05-23-2014, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
 
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3 coats of primer done... It is quite rough, is that how it's supposed to feel before sanding? The paint was quite thick but it seemed to spray all right. Should I spray more on at a time to make it less rough?
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post #73 of 85 Old 05-23-2014, 08:08 PM
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3 coats of primer done... It is quite rough, is that how it's supposed to feel before sanding? The paint was quite thick but it seemed to spray all right. Should I spray more on at a time to make it less rough?

Meh, you're just gonna sand it off anyways lol. you'll be able to see your low spots pretty easily when you sand it now at least. Usually if the primer is really rough, you need to slow down your spray speed but I bet you'll be fine.

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post #74 of 85 Old 05-23-2014, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
 
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should i turn the knob on the gun to make more paint come out ?
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post #75 of 85 Old 05-23-2014, 09:11 PM
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You need to figure out why it is rough first. Rough finish can be from a number of things, poor atomization from not enough pressure or the wrong size tip for what you are shooting, too much air causing dry spray, moving too fast so you don't lay down a wet coat etc.

Also lacquer thinner might make the urethane dry too fast which would could also result in the finish not flowing out well and feeling rough. Looking at the msds sheets for urethane reducer vs. laquer thinner they are pretty different compounds.
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post #76 of 85 Old 05-23-2014, 09:30 PM - Thread Starter
 
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You need to figure out why it is rough first. Rough finish can be from a number of things, poor atomization from not enough pressure or the wrong size tip for what you are shooting, too much air causing dry spray, moving too fast so you don't lay down a wet coat etc.

Also lacquer thinner might make the urethane dry too fast which would could also result in the finish not flowing out well and feeling rough. Looking at the msds sheets for urethane reducer vs. laquer thinner they are pretty different compounds.

Hmm I can turn the pressure up, i ran it at 45, it says to use 30-60 psi at gun. I probably went a little fast, and I am spraying a fair amount of air but I'm not sure how much it's supposed to spray. I have not mixed lacquer thinner with the urethane, I just use it to clean the gun. I am just using 4 parts primer 1 part activator to spray.
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post #77 of 85 Old 05-24-2014, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Finished sanding the first 3 coats of primer with 220 grit. Had to go through on the roundover a tiny bit in two parts as the bondo wasn't perfectly smooth I guess. Other than that it was perfect and I didn't have to bondo anything. Finishing 3 more coats in a couple hours then sanding tonight and then putting in the driver!



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post #78 of 85 Old 05-24-2014, 03:16 PM
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Don't sand it until you're ready to paint it'll give the primer time to shrink and if you happen to knick it or something you might be able to sand it out without having to refill/ prime.
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post #79 of 85 Old 05-24-2014, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
 
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I'm bringing in the sub for about 2 months to see how the primer settles and make sure seams don't go through / wait until i build my tempests so i can paint all 3 at once. You think I should bring it inside without sanding? I think it might make too much of a mess some of the rough parts of the paint rub off pretty easy
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post #80 of 85 Old 05-25-2014, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

I'm bringing in the sub for about 2 months to see how the primer settles and make sure seams don't go through / wait until i build my tempests so i can paint all 3 at once. You think I should bring it inside without sanding? I think it might make too much of a mess some of the rough parts of the paint rub off pretty easy

Ya don't sand it yet, wait till you are ready to paint. Fattykid had it right.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #81 of 85 Old 05-25-2014, 05:14 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the heads up Fattykid for not sanding before I bring it ijn - I would have sanded it if you didn't tell me haha.

Got it all hooked up, it sounds awesome! Just watched the WOTW lightning scene. Only problem I'm having right now is the B channel on my inuke nu4 6000 is not lighting up. It seemed to work fine on bridge mono from A or C channels. Which means the B channel is still working just not lighting up. I'm running it on C/D in bridge mode right now just incase theres something wrong with channel B. I really don't want to take it in for warranty.... Not sure if it's a problem or not. I'll update some pics in a bit.
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post #82 of 85 Old 06-12-2014, 05:40 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Been inside for 3 weeks now, sounds great. Can definitely notice the lower extension compared to my ported sub. A tiny bit boomy at higher freq's as I have not put any pillows inside it yet and I do not have my EQ here or anything to smooth the response. So far paint is great, I don't think any seams will show through.








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post #83 of 85 Old 06-12-2014, 06:30 PM
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Been inside for 3 weeks now, sounds great. Can definitely notice the lower extension compared to my ported sub. A tiny bit boomy at higher freq's as I have not put any pillows inside it yet and I do not have my EQ here or anything to smooth the response. So far paint is great, I don't think any seams will show through.







Nice. Was it pretty easy to spray?
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post #84 of 85 Old 06-12-2014, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Yep, it's unreal how easy hvlp is compared to spray paint. Don't have to shake it every 5 seconds haha. It would have been easier if I knew how to set it up right, I didn't have the same flow that I've seen on youtube videos. I had to go a bit slow to get coverage. I don't know if it's just thick primer, a small tip or not enough pressure. Probably a combination of all 3.
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post #85 of 85 Old 06-12-2014, 07:12 PM
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Yep, it's unreal how easy hvlp is compared to spray paint. Don't have to shake it every 5 seconds haha. It would have been easier if I knew how to set it up right, I didn't have the same flow that I've seen on youtube videos. I had to go a bit slow to get coverage. I don't know if it's just thick primer, a small tip or not enough pressure. Probably a combination of all 3.
I have a 4-stage Fuji HVLP and I struggle with all 3 too. Good to know I'm not the only one...but your results speak for themselves. Great job!
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