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post #31 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

id recheck all the solder connections, if its getting NO action something is not connected at all

I will obviously check when I get home. Perhaps in mounting a connection came loose. I had the little bumps on the back so used a little shop rag folded up to pad and space then 4 screws. Actually worked very nicely and secure and padded. I really HOPE it is just a connection came loose

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post #32 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 04:21 PM
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If the woofer worked in the other enclosure there are only two things that could be wrong, a loose connection or a bad inductor. It's almost impossible the inductor is bad so it's far more likely you have a connection problem.
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post #33 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

If the woofer worked in the other enclosure there are only two things that could be wrong, a loose connection or a bad inductor. It's almost impossible the inductor is bad so it's far more likely you have a connection problem.

considering my 1st most likely. And I hope so! Easy fix and calibration tonight!!!

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post #34 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 07:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I need advice here. Nothing is disconnected. All solder points are solid. I suppose I can heat up the solder and pull out the woofer wires and perhaps input wires and replace them. I suppose it's possible to have a bad wire? I apologize about the crappy digital camera pics. Tried to get numerous angles. I know it is not the AVR connections as the JBL's I just replaced were fine there.









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post #35 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 07:44 PM
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I'm not sure if this is the best way, but if it was mine I would take a short piece of wire and jump each xo part while some music is playing at a very low volume. When the sound comes through the woofer - that's the bad joint/part.
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post #36 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post

I'm not sure if this is the best way, but if it was mine I would take a short piece of wire and jump each xo part while some music is playing at a very low volume. When the sound comes through the woofer - that's the bad joint/part.

Can you describe exactly what this looks like? Jump what to what?

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post #37 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 07:56 PM
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Try hooking it up and running some low volume music through it. One at a time, try to wiggle each lead and see if you get sound cutting in and out. I would also try reflowing your connections at the speaker wires.
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post #38 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 08:02 PM
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Hd napkin rendering


Take a piece of wire that is 4 or 5 " long and strip the ends, touch one end to one side of the capacitor wire that pokes out of the end of the cylinder and put the other end of the piece of wire on the other end of the capacitor wire. All this does is continue the current in case there is a break inside the cap. You can try this on each piece in the xo. It would be a good idea to check the volume level first and unhook the tweeter before you try this.
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post #39 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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No need my friends!!! I just got it! All I did was replace the wires from LOW to woofer and I also heated up the solder on the two red coated wires and backed them out slightly. I thought perhaps I had pushed them in too far so that the tips not coated were not getting a good connection. Either one I am happy they work!!!
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post #40 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Calibration time and them some demo discs and surround scenes!!!

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post #41 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 09:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok yea these little cubes are sweet! A beautiful transition from my LCR JTR Triple 8's and dual Seaton Submersives. More in depth review to come but the first impressions are YEA BABY! biggrin.gif

Just an XT32 calibration with my Denon 4520ci and a 6db low shelf filter via mini dsp. Also bump up the sub trim after Audyssey calibration of course. Man flat bass is terrible. No offenses tongue.gif

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post #42 of 89 Old 05-21-2014, 12:21 PM
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I agree on the flat bass I have the Denon X4000 and Audessy does the same thing to me I bump it up +6db for each sub. Looking at your solider joints you have some good ones and some bad ones. You need to fill the hole and have some solider come up the wire. I can still see the hole on many of the joints. It should be shiny not dull. If it is dull you did not have enough heat. Tin the tip of the iron first you do this by dipping it in flux heating it up then and put solider directly on the tip (both sides). Wipe excess on a damp sponge or rag. Then put flux on the tip again and on the end of the solider. I generally heat the wire and pad at the same time about 1/2 second or so then when both the pad and tip are hot hit it with the soldier pushing it in the hole until it is level with the board. About 1/4" or so of solider. Even if they are working I would redo any dull or improperly filled joints.
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post #43 of 89 Old 05-21-2014, 08:54 PM - Thread Starter
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You mean the solder should come through the top side slightly? By the melted/wet solder coming through? That digital camera is terrible and why I took numerous shots but they still don't show it well at all. I certainly error on the perfectionist side and felt all the solder points were pretty good by time I was done. Not to say I am an expert or anything lol smile.gif I am always learning as we all are. Just to be sure we are on the same page here...So you think there are holes still showing in the back? I feel the pictures don't show it well but each point has a nice little bubble/mound and no holes are visible at all. There is just too much solder there for any holes to be exposed. But if I am missing something sacrificing quality or longevity of the life of these speakers I will fix it properly smile.gif

BTW sweet build you have there smile.gif I can't wait to do that myself someday. Say, have you compared theater rooms that have had all the proper construction like double drywall/any material, decoupling walls, green glue all that good stuff versus a room that is just built normal? Just curious how much better it is you know. I will certainly build multiple more subs and surrounds for sure.

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post #44 of 89 Old 05-22-2014, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Well I need advice here. Nothing is disconnected. All solder points are solid. I suppose I can heat up the solder and pull out the woofer wires and perhaps input wires and replace them. I suppose it's possible to have a bad wire? I apologize about the crappy digital camera pics. Tried to get numerous angles. I know it is not the AVR connections as the JBL's I just replaced were fine there.


Looking at these 2 pictures in the first picture the run with only 2 solider joints top right looks good but in the second picture they do not. I am guessing this is the same board. If you cannot see any air from the top side and the joints are shiny then you are probably good. Otherwise just dab a little flux on each joint and the soldier, heat the joint about 2 seconds and apply about 1/4" of solider to each one.

My room is above the garage my friend also has a theater above the garage. You can hear every word and other sounds like music and car chases clearly in his kitchen and entire up and down stairs and his base shakes the whole house. In my theater at reference levels you cannot even hear the movie at all down stairs and in the Billiard just barely make out something is playing but not what and the base sounds like distance thunder. He has a $500 yamaha with 70 watts per channel and one subwoffer. I have a Denon X4000 with 125 watts per channel and 2 subwoffers.
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post #45 of 89 Old 05-22-2014, 02:13 PM
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my joints look very much like yours and my solder does not bubble through to the other side. if your speakers are working fine I would not bother taking the boards out and re-soldering. I believe you fixed you issue with 1 not working earlier
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post #46 of 89 Old 05-22-2014, 02:51 PM
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agree but if the joints are dull verse shinny then it is a cold solider joint which is probably what he had going on with the wire from the board to the driver which he fixed.
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post #47 of 89 Old 05-22-2014, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea the fix I wish I would have done the two things I did one at a time to gauge what exactly it was. My gut felt like, and because I read it elsewhere, that I had the two red wires pushed in too far. I don'r know what that red stuff is but read elsewhere you want the tips which are not coated to be in the solder. Those two I heated up the solder and just pushed them back in a bit. The other thing I did is just replace the "LO" pos and neg wires. They work awesome right now! I am thoroughly pleased with the performance these things have. I wish there was a music listening preset that played LCR all the same as stereo and then the surrounds in the Dolby effect it does on PLIIX music. I like the wider soundstage of Stereo but the ambient these guys do with surrounds. Anyway movies are insane! For only having two surrounds the effects are phenomenal. Book of Eli gun demo scenes are nuts! With my two submersives taking LFE duty and the two Volts working with my JTR Triple 8's up front you can literally feel the bullets fly through the room. I have been on this journey for a couple years now and have never been this happy with my setup. Of course the general upgrading gear has helped and the new Denon 4520ci. But I really felt it all came together when the final pieces, the two Volts, came into the equation. I really want to build some more of Eric's speakers. Maybe a couple 18's and flat packs but I get such good sub response and performance I don't think a big noticeable difference would be present. Maybe I can talk a buddy into the 15 Sentinels smile.gif

Good info on the soundproofing the room. I will definitely take those steps in the future.
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post #48 of 89 Old 05-26-2014, 12:33 AM
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What did your receiver set the crossover for these at?

3 - JTR 228's LCR (game room)
4 - DIY Sound Group V-8 Coaxials in slanted boxes (game room)
4 - PSA Triax's (game room)
3 - DIY Sound Group V-8 Coaxials in Ported Boxes for LCR's
2 - SVS SB13+'s (living room)
1 - SVS SB12-NSD (bedroom)
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post #49 of 89 Old 05-26-2014, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kemist1117 View Post

From the picture of the crossover you posted above, the solder job looked not great. I would bet you need to resolder.

If your other working crossover looks like the first, i would resolder that as well.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/djn5065/throughhole.html

Heres a tutorial with some pictures of what the solder job should look like when done right.

It's funny, I've been looking for something like that for awhile now and couldn't find it. Funny that my own school's website would have it in very easy to understand words.
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post #50 of 89 Old 05-26-2014, 01:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raynist View Post

What did your receiver set the crossover for these at?

Hey smile.gif The new Denon 4520ci running XT32 set them at 60hz. I was surprised TBO. But when you stand close to them and put your hand up to them you can tell they are putting out the bass for sure around 80hz just fine. I set everything back to 80hz.

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post #51 of 89 Old 05-26-2014, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Hey smile.gif The new Denon 4520ci running XT32 set them at 60hz. I was surprised TBO. But when you stand close to them and put your hand up to them you can tell they are putting out the bass for sure around 80hz just fine. I set everything back to 80hz.

Thanks, that is what my denon 4311 and then onkyo pre pro set my ported volt 8's at also.

3 - JTR 228's LCR (game room)
4 - DIY Sound Group V-8 Coaxials in slanted boxes (game room)
4 - PSA Triax's (game room)
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2 - SVS SB13+'s (living room)
1 - SVS SB12-NSD (bedroom)
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post #52 of 89 Old 05-26-2014, 01:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raynist View Post

Thanks, that is what my denon 4311 and then onkyo pre pro set my ported volt 8's at also.

Man I am really impressed with theses guys! No regrets for sure smile.gif

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post #53 of 89 Old 06-13-2014, 06:38 PM
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Glad to see these worked out for you and that you are satisfied with how they work alongside your JTRs. I have been looking into different surround options since I took delivery of my (3) 228HTs and (1) Cap S2 back in January of this year. I think (2) of the angled flat pack Volt V10s are the right way to go to get me into the 5.1 surround game for little out of pocket cost.

I might be stopping back by this thread or sending you some PMs if I pull the trigger, I've never assembled a crossover or speaker flat pack before, so from one DIY beginner to another I'm sure you'd have some good tips.
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post #54 of 89 Old 06-13-2014, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emr25 View Post
Glad to see these worked out for you and that you are satisfied with how they work alongside your JTRs. I have been looking into different surround options since I took delivery of my (3) 228HTs and (1) Cap S2 back in January of this year. I think (2) of the angled flat pack Volt V10s are the right way to go to get me into the 5.1 surround game for little out of pocket cost.

I might be stopping back by this thread or sending you some PMs if I pull the trigger, I've never assembled a crossover or speaker flat pack before, so from one DIY beginner to another I'm sure you'd have some good tips.
As long as you can solder, assembling the crossover in simple. This kit comes with a board that makes it almost fool proof. Really nothing difficult about the box either, just glue the 6 pieces together.

I have 2 Volt-8 slanted boxes as my surrounds, will add 2 more soon.

I also built 3 volt 8's in the .67 ported box for my living room system. I would say they sound about 85% as good as 228's for less than $200 each.

My ported slanted boxes were set at 40hz for xover by Audyssey 32xt. The regular boxes were set at 60hz. I set them all to 80hz though.
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post #55 of 89 Old 06-14-2014, 01:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emr25 View Post
Glad to see these worked out for you and that you are satisfied with how they work alongside your JTRs. I have been looking into different surround options since I took delivery of my (3) 228HTs and (1) Cap S2 back in January of this year. I think (2) of the angled flat pack Volt V10s are the right way to go to get me into the 5.1 surround game for little out of pocket cost.

I might be stopping back by this thread or sending you some PMs if I pull the trigger, I've never assembled a crossover or speaker flat pack before, so from one DIY beginner to another I'm sure you'd have some good tips.
Yea you bet I also recently realized I didn't post the rest of my pictures from my build. So you will see much more detail in form of pics. Like Raynist said, they are pretty easy. This was my first DIY speaker project and it went great. I am a pretty mechanically inclined person and have worked with many tools and many skills over the years. So I was confident of the process from the get go. But the level of challenge with these are low.

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post #56 of 89 Old 06-14-2014, 02:05 PM
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I went ahead and ordered (2) Volt V10s and (2) angled surround flat packs from DIY Sound Group last night. Also ordered (2) terminal cups and a cheap SPL meter from Parts Express. And a trial kit of Duratex from Acrytech.

I plan on picking a few more things up from Amazon to round out the supplies. Titebond II, a soldering kit, 16-gauge speaker wire, some french cleats for mounting, and some more banana plugs for the AVR termination.

Does anyone have experience mounting the angled surround boxes for the Volts? I am thinking about ordering these from Amazon, seem like they will work out fine for fairly cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Edit: Also, what was the timeframe for receiving your Volts from DIY Sound Group? Just trying to get an idea of when I will need to set aside some time to get them assembled.
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post #57 of 89 Old 06-14-2014, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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A trial kit? They send samples? I painted mine black with semi gloss and I high dap roller for texture but have planned on getting duratex anyway.

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post #58 of 89 Old 06-14-2014, 02:10 PM - Thread Starter
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It was about one week received. Couple days to shipped then the time on fed ex ground. He is in Cincinnati so closer the faster. I am in Eugene OR so it was about a week.

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post #59 of 89 Old 06-14-2014, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are more pics of the process I promised
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PSN ID: Jlpowell84
DIY Sound Group Volt 10 surround speaker build
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1531107/di...axial-speakers
My Setup Thread
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...4-s-setup.html
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post #60 of 89 Old 06-14-2014, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Not liking the thumbnails but it seems the only way for now on the new forum format

PSN ID: Jlpowell84
DIY Sound Group Volt 10 surround speaker build
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1531107/di...axial-speakers
My Setup Thread
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...4-s-setup.html
jlpowell84 is online now  
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