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post #1 of 89 Old 05-09-2014, 07:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok gentlemen. This is my first rodeo with DIY project. I have my soldering gun kit, and all the parts. I will get the rest of the MDF tomm and cut it. But tonight I will assemble the crossovers. Does anyone know of a DIY speaker building link for dummies that I could breeze over? Say like things not to do and things not to forget? I stuff the speaker with insulation right? But what kind? Does it matter? You see what I am getting at. These two will be on surround duty and partner with LCR JTR Triple 8's all running off of a Denon 4520ci and two Seaton Submersives on LFE duty. I have also recently fully treated my room for specular reflections. Well at least all first reflection points and a couple bass traps. Anyway just looking for advice and hopefully a good link to a dummies type guide I can follow smile.gif

Thanks -Jason
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post #2 of 89 Old 05-10-2014, 05:05 AM
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Hello! Congrats on your purchase! I just built my pair last week and love them so far, even as temporary mains.
Your kits came with crossover boards, right? You just need to re-bend the leads on each part so that you can stick them through the holes. You didn't say whether you know how to solder or not but just keep in mind that the pads around each hole are fairly large and will need a few seconds of heat from your solder iron in order to allow the solder to flow evenly/nicely/thoroughly. Beyond that, just use some hot glue around each component when your done just to insure that nothing is going anywhere. As far as what part goes where, you can check out the photo on the product page on the DIY SG site for reference.
For the cabinets, are you building ported or sealed? If ported, you can just line the walls on the inside with insulation of your choice. I'm personally going to use the denim insulation that Home Depot sells which will be itch free. You can always use the pink stuff but either way, keep it away from the ports.
If you're building sealed, just stuff them with a fair amount of polyfil and call it good.
You'll need some way to affix the crossover boards to the insides of the cabinets; just something to think about.
You can check out my Volt 10 build as well.
Good luck and snap a few photos along your way!
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post #3 of 89 Old 05-10-2014, 06:00 AM
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the "industrial" or "Heavy Duty" velcro they sell at Home Depot or whatever works great for attaching Xovers to the cab, its what i normally use
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post #4 of 89 Old 05-10-2014, 01:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dtsdig View Post

Hello! Congrats on your purchase! I just built my pair last week and love them so far, even as temporary mains.
Your kits came with crossover boards, right? You just need to re-bend the leads on each part so that you can stick them through the holes. You didn't say whether you know how to solder or not but just keep in mind that the pads around each hole are fairly large and will need a few seconds of heat from your solder iron in order to allow the solder to flow evenly/nicely/thoroughly. Beyond that, just use some hot glue around each component when your done just to insure that nothing is going anywhere. As far as what part goes where, you can check out the photo on the product page on the DIY SG site for reference.
For the cabinets, are you building ported or sealed? If ported, you can just line the walls on the inside with insulation of your choice. I'm personally going to use the denim insulation that Home Depot sells which will be itch free. You can always use the pink stuff but either way, keep it away from the ports.
If you're building sealed, just stuff them with a fair amount of polyfil and call it good.
You'll need some way to affix the crossover boards to the insides of the cabinets; just something to think about.
You can check out my Volt 10 build as well.
Good luck and snap a few photos along your way!

Thanks smile.gif I assembled the crossover boards last night. First time using soldering gun but was easy. All Connections are secure. Now I just need to cut some MDF to create the .67 cub ft interior for the SEALED cabinets I am doing. Just going to build all external dimensions at 12 inches.

Do you think I should use some brad nails or will Gorilla wood glue be enough alone? I had seen done both in my research. I have some pink fluffy and Roxul AFB insulation left from my acoustical treatment building. I was gonna ask how I attach the wires that I have soldered to the crossover board. The 3 blacks and 3 reds that is. I will check out the FB page like you said.
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post #5 of 89 Old 05-10-2014, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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the "industrial" or "Heavy Duty" velcro they sell at Home Depot or whatever works great for attaching Xovers to the cap, its what i normally use

Yea I was wondering and have some of that laying around.
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post #6 of 89 Old 05-10-2014, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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post #7 of 89 Old 05-10-2014, 04:53 PM
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Hey man, looking great so far! I see you figured out how to attach the wires into the crossover.
I used brad nails for mine because it made it so easy. Just glue, clamp, brad nail and move on. I like using Titebond 2 for glue because as long as your cuts are straight it is more than strong enough. If you're referring to the normal gorilla glue, it will expand like crazy. I personally wouldn't use it for a project like this.
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post #8 of 89 Old 05-10-2014, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Really ok. That is good to know. I had read elsewhere of people using gorilla glue. But I am new to the DIY world and this exact reason is the purpose of this thread. Thanks smile.gif
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post #9 of 89 Old 05-11-2014, 08:33 AM
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People definitely use gorilla glue. If you're talking about the original stuff that looks like tree sap, when it dries, it's rock hard and kind of bubbles while it expands. Doesn't seem ideal to me. If you need something that expands, you could use PL Premium.
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post #10 of 89 Old 05-11-2014, 08:55 AM
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people use Gorilla Wood Glue, its different than the other gorilla glue.

any wood glue works, and PL works as well if you want to be 100% sure there are no gaps

some people also use epoxy resin glue
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post #11 of 89 Old 05-11-2014, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

people use Gorilla Wood Glue, its different than the other gorilla glue.

any wood glue works, and PL works as well if you want to be 100% sure there are no gaps

some people also use epoxy resin glue

Exactly, I just wanted to be specific about not using the original sap looking gorilla glue. The wood glue would of course be fine. smile.gif
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post #12 of 89 Old 05-11-2014, 11:58 PM - Thread Starter
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My landlord had some Titebond 2 laying around so I used that. Gonna have it all done by tomm.

One thing is I am not 100% sure on what to connect all the wires off my crossover too. I searched for the DIY Sound Group's FB page but could not find it.
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post #13 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 01:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Can I use the cheap fluffy insulation to put inside?
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post #14 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 03:15 AM
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Yes...works well and usually readily available.

Current Gear: PJ – BenQ PE7700; Receiver - Onkyo TX-SR805; Blu Ray - OppoBDP 103; Turntable - Dual CS-515 w/ Ortofon Super OM10; Amplifiers - OdysseyKhartago, Adcom GFA555, QSC RMX 1850HD; PEQ - Behringer FBD2496 [Near FieldSub], miniDSP 2×4 [Flanking Subs], REW; Speakers - 4 Pi (w/B&C DE250/JBL2226H) × 3 [LCR], Yamaha Crap × 2 [surrounds], Exodus Audio Maelstrom-X18" sealed sub [near field sub], LAB-12 based ported sub tuned to 22 Hz x2 [flanking subs, XO set at 40 Hz]
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post #15 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

My landlord had some Titebond 2 laying around so I used that. Gonna have it all done by tomm.

One thing is I am not 100% sure on what to connect all the wires off my crossover too. I searched for the DIY Sound Group's FB page but could not find it.

Here's all you need to do. Connect the + and - "input" wires from your crossover to your binding posts. Then connect your "Hi" + and - wires to the compression driver terminals. Lastly, connect the "low" wires to the woofer.
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post #16 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!

I will have the enclosures sanded and painted tonight as well as everything hooked up tested and installed on surround duty! Unless my iPhone sales take me away this evening smile.gif Gotta make that scrilla!
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post #17 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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But, just a basic sand job with a slight take down of the corners then black semigloss with a high dap roller for texture.
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post #18 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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So the Denovo CD. I just screw it in snug as far as it will go correct? Seems to stick out a bit is all.
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post #19 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
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So the Denovo CD. I just screw it in snug as far as it will go correct? Seems to stick out a bit is all.

That's correct. Some threads will still be out.
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post #20 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 10:10 PM - Thread Starter
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That's correct. Some threads will still be out.

Sweet! I surely appreciate your help smile.gif

I got the cabinets all sanded very nice and painted tonight. Rounding third base now!
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post #21 of 89 Old 05-12-2014, 10:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Just mount the crossovers which I will put a small washer to space slightly for the small solder bubbles. Then insulate, wire up! And test!!!
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post #22 of 89 Old 05-14-2014, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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And the build is finished! Calibration will happen tomm though as it is late so impressions will follow once everything is tuned.

I did test out one speaker with both of my Submersives. Great sounding speaker for sure! I am glad I put in the effort and hours of building instead of falling back on a cheap pair of surrounds somewhere. I am happy with the cosmetic look and it matches my boxes up front LOL of JTR Triple 8's for LCR. Now it doesn't have the detail of the triple 8's but its also not a more expensive BMS CD.









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post #23 of 89 Old 05-14-2014, 10:54 PM - Thread Starter
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So I am having a malfunction. On one of the speakers the Eminence Beta 10CX woofer is completely inactive. Only the CD is working. Yes I checked all the connections, the soldered points, everything. It is all correct. A little disappointing after all the hard work. But it will be up and running at some point. I am not sure what Eric's policy is. It seems a new Eminence woofer would be replaceable. I am sure most of you and Eric would think it is my assembly issue but I looked over everything.
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post #24 of 89 Old 05-14-2014, 11:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok update. I took the woofer/cd that was inactive (woofer only) and it worked just fine in the other completed enclosure. So it seems something is bad in the crossover? I know it seems like it should be an assembly issue but it is all connected and built identical to the other. I will put on the headlamp and take a very close look tomm at the crossover.
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post #25 of 89 Old 05-14-2014, 11:15 PM - Thread Starter
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more pics. I have different shelfs flanked left and right at different heights. So I built stands at different heights to get both speakers right at my nose height when standing. I am 5'10". Just a plywood frame wrapped in black micro suede fabric I have for bass traps.








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post #26 of 89 Old 05-14-2014, 11:24 PM
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I'm glad you are enjoying the Volt 10" I've heard the volt 8" and liked it. I'm sure the volt 10" is great too! Nice project!

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post #27 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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So does anyone have any idea why one crossover is not giving me any woofer action? Is it most likely what? A bad part? I will double check and see if I accidently got the red coated metal down too far on the one wire wrapped part. But that shouldn't render the woofer inactive right? Remember I checked the woofer in the other completed enclosure and it works just fine. So it is obviously limited to the connections or crossover of the one enclosure. Was really hoping to calibrate tonight rolleyes.gif
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post #28 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 12:00 PM
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From the picture of the crossover you posted above, the solder job looked not great. I would bet you need to resolder.

If your other working crossover looks like the first, i would resolder that as well.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/djn5065/throughhole.html

Heres a tutorial with some pictures of what the solder job should look like when done right.
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post #29 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

So does anyone have any idea why one crossover is not giving me any woofer action? Is it most likely what? A bad part? I will double check and see if I accidently got the red coated metal down too far on the one wire wrapped part. But that shouldn't render the woofer inactive right? Remember I checked the woofer in the other completed enclosure and it works just fine. So it is obviously limited to the connections or crossover of the one enclosure. Was really hoping to calibrate tonight rolleyes.gif

id recheck all the solder connections, if its getting NO action something is not connected at all
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post #30 of 89 Old 05-15-2014, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kemist1117 View Post

From the picture of the crossover you posted above, the solder job looked not great. I would bet you need to resolder.

If your other working crossover looks like the first, i would resolder that as well.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/djn5065/throughhole.html

Heres a tutorial with some pictures of what the solder job should look like when done right.

That pic was pre solder smile.gif Just with the parts wires put through the holes is all
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