Dayton Ultimax 15 Build Thread (Just another noob I know) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
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So, it's been almost 2 months since I placed my order. I honestly thought it was canceled. Then yesterday, I get a nice little email confirmation that it has shipped. Today, my CC is declined confirming that I definitely was charged for it lol.

So I have a :
NU4-6000
Dayton Utlimax 15
Knockdown Kit

So just a few quick little things:

-So the only things I need now are the SpeakOn Adapaters which I neglected to get and am not sure which ones I'm supposed to pick up.

-Polyfill? I think I'm supposed to get some but I can just get the $1 pillows at walmart right and use the stuffing in that?

-Terminals for the subwoofer box.

Am I missing anything else? I already have paint and what not.

Everything comes tomorrow so I'm excited to get started. I have guests coming tomorrow and I doubt anything will be ready as no doubt I'll be working on this as much as possible.
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post #2 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 05:12 PM
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If you are going to paint the MDF, you must seal it with a primer. Use Zinnser BIN Shellac based primer. Do NOT use water based or non-odor as it will wrinkle when painted over with enamels or lacquers. I use a pint with a sponge roller for a box. Three coats will be sufficient. Sand between coats and the finish will be super smooth.

I do not care for lacquers as it takes a long time to cure. If it does not cure, the paint will come off in chunks instead of sanding off as a fine dust. I find that lacquers can take a month or two before curing completely. Enamels takes a couple of days but lacquers give a higher gloss...

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post #3 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks on that. I'll make sure to go out and get a paint roller. I have primer and paint already.
I have Glidden General Purpose Primer Interior Latex.
I also have Interior Flat, Latex Flat Wall & Trim.

Is that the right paint?

The SpeakOn connector thing is what I need to get the most though as I really am a noob with connectors. I don't know which adapter I need to use with the Behringer Inukes.
This and how much polyfill I'm supposed to use.
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post #4 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 05:53 PM
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This is what you need:

4 pole neutrik backplate for the enclosure
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mpr-speakon-connector-4-pole-round-chassis-mount--092-054

4 pole neutrik speakons connectors
http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4fx-speakon-spx-cable-connector-4p--092-190

To bridge an inuke you need 4 pole because you are going to wire your speaker cable the following way:

red - 1+
black - 2+

If you are running the inuke in stereo you then wire it this way:

red - 1+
black - 1-

Let's say you are running 2 Ultimax in stereo Chan A and B

A
red - 1+
black - 1-

B
red - 2+
black - 2-

And last but not least if you are running 2 Ultimax in dual mono Chan A and B

A
red - 1+
black - 1-

B
red - 1+
black - 1-

That inuke can run in the following modes and also by mixing those modes:

dual bridged - A+B and C+D
dual stereo - A/B and C/D
quad mono - A and B and C and D all separate
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post #5 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
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If I don't plan on bridging it do I still need the 4 pole connector? I never had planned on bridging it. The first 2 channels were meant for my fronts. The second 2 channels were meant for 2 subwoofers (I'll be picking up another sub shortly).

So do I only need a 2 pole connector then?
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post #6 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Also, how do I hook this up to my receiver? It says TRS/XLR? How do I hook that into the RCA inputs on my speaker?
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post #7 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 08:18 PM
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They make XLR to RCA cable. Check monoprice or parts express. I used the same connections for my sub

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post #8 of 35 Old 05-15-2014, 08:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlhaudio View Post

They make XLR to RCA cable. Check monoprice or parts express. I used the same connections for my sub

XLR to RCA cable just gave bad results in google. Well not optimal. Thanks, I found them pretty quick on monoprice.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150903&p_id=8769&seq=1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902&p_id=4775&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150903&p_id=601500&seq=1&format=2

Figured I can get a few cables that are already done because I want to be sure they're durable for when I'm out.
Also found the XLR to RCA on there.
Then figured I'd pick up the adapters too since I have speaker wiring and I might want longer length wires.


And I just picked up the 4 Pole mounts since the speaker cable that is done already has them. Wish I could order using amazon prime so I can play with this all this weekend but everything cost almost double ordering off amazon prime compared to monoprice/parts express. Actually even more than double lol.
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post #9 of 35 Old 05-16-2014, 01:02 AM
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Your receiver preout will most likely not have enough juice for the input signal on the inuke so you are going to need an art cleanbox pro to up the gain.

http://www.amazon.com/ART-CLEANBOXPRO-CLEANBoxPro/dp/B003S7T49K
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post #10 of 35 Old 05-16-2014, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VectorLabs View Post

Your receiver preout will most likely not have enough juice for the input signal on the inuke so you are going to need an art cleanbox pro to up the gain.

http://www.amazon.com/ART-CLEANBOXPRO-CLEANBoxPro/dp/B003S7T49K

thats not always true

my Denon 1910 is powering an inuke just fine with RCA-XLR cables

My Onkyo can do it just fine as well as the Yamaha
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post #11 of 35 Old 05-16-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

thats not always true

my Denon 1910 is powering an inuke just fine with RCA-XLR cables

My Onkyo can do it just fine as well as the Yamaha

Yes, so I'm not too worried about it.

I'm worried about the two things I listed in the OP. Now that I know which adapters to get, I need to know where to get the polyfill and how I should stuff and I should be good to go I hope! Box comes today I'm just sitting by the window like a puppy waiting lol
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post #12 of 35 Old 05-16-2014, 08:43 AM
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You can get poly a Walmart how much to stuff is debated
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post #13 of 35 Old 05-21-2014, 11:45 AM
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polyfill is way cheaper at Wallyworld. FWIW, I have a Denon 4311ci and im running 4 subs, I use 2 rca spitters of the back of my denon. Im using 2 plate amps subs and 2 passive subs with Inukes. I had to buy Neutrik speakon connectors and RCA to XLR cables as well. It's a few extra steps but works just fine in the end.
Your going to be just fine when its all said and done. Just be sure to wire the speakon connectors properly.

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post #14 of 35 Old 05-21-2014, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tential View Post

Thanks on that. I'll make sure to go out and get a paint roller. I have primer and paint already.
I have Glidden General Purpose Primer Interior Latex.
I also have Interior Flat, Latex Flat Wall & Trim.

If you use only latex paint, this should be fine. I would recommend you use enamels tho. They are more durable.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #15 of 35 Old 05-26-2014, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, the Speakon Wiring was actually pretty easy once I did it. Connecting it to the amp though lol. Took me a bit to realize I had to turn it to secure the connection.

This is probably obvious to you guys but how exactly do I install the Speakon Connector on my subwoofer?
I was doing some searching on here and saw that people made a hole for the Speakon Plate witha 15/16 woodbit drill? Is that right and will that just fit on any drill as I think I actually have a drill.
Also, when do I make that hole/install the speakon plate? Do I do it before I paint or after?

Finally, when exactly/when should I if necessary use Bondo? I don't think I have imperfections but I do feel that this box I got from Parts-Express isn't as nice as the one my friend made me cuts wise. The cuts just don't fit perfectly the way his did it feels like. Won't be sure until I finish though but wanna know if I'll need to pick this up since today is probably the only day I can run to Home Depot and pick up some things I need.
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post #16 of 35 Old 05-27-2014, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Another question, how should I mount this subwoofer? I've read some threads on this but I'm the type of person who doesn't even have a drill bit to pre drill holes (And have 0 clue why you would do so) so could use some help as to what screws I should get and whether I should use some TNuts (or some other type of mounting thing) to do this. Thanks!

I think I can finish this up by next week so I'm excited lol. It's the only time I have the house to myself to actually test this thing without making anyone really upset haha.
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post #17 of 35 Old 05-27-2014, 04:53 PM
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T-Nuts are nice but are a real pain to install... There is always the possibility that the t-nut pops off the rear baffle and then you are stuck with a driver that cannot be removed. If you don't really care for aesthetics, I would just use wood screws to screw the driver in. If you do decide to go with T-nuts, make sure you glue them to the rear baffle with gorilla glue to prevent them from coming loose.

Predrilling the screw holes is a must. If you just screw in the screws, there is a good possibility that the MDF will split, causing issues when you try to remove or reinstalling the driver later.

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post #18 of 35 Old 05-27-2014, 06:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, I 'm a huge noob with this stuff so I didn't know the importance of predrilling. Which drill bit do I need to predrill the holes for this?

So could I just clamp the front baffle/rear baffle together.
Then pre drill through both. Install the TNuts on the front baffle. Then glue the front baffle to the rear baffle (Applying glue around the TNuts as well to ensure they stay in place. Then just use 1 1/2" long screws to move the sub in place and use the TNut to guide the first 3/4"?

And should I do all of this before I start painting (As well with drilling the whole for the Speakon Mount)?

Edit: I also seem to have a small point where it looks like a crack. I can take a picture if needed but can I fill that in with Bondo or does that mean the box won't be air tight and I'll have to scrap it? Also, wood split at one point while I was moving the box to take this pic lol....
t1NGfoS.jpg
IFMywjG.jpg
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post #19 of 35 Old 05-27-2014, 08:58 PM
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You got the T-nuts installation all wrong. See this thread for a good example on how to build a subwoofer...

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #20 of 35 Old 05-27-2014, 09:18 PM
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congrats tential.

pre-drilling the holes and using a coarse thread screw is another option. these have a socket head for better looks and to help prevent putting the screwdriver through the surround.



oh, called "Low Profile Head Socket Cap Self Tapping Screws". i'm sure you could find something in the 'thousands of screws' isle at the box store.

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post #21 of 35 Old 05-28-2014, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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"I purchased 1/4-20 T-Nuts from a local hardware store for the baffle mount. The T-nuts have prongs that penetrate into the wood to keep them from spinning when bolts are tightened. I press them in using a c-clamp, and use a little Gorilla glue to ensure that they don't pop out."
"To mount the driver, I'll use hurricane nuts on the back side of the baffle. To mark the holes for their location, I shimmed the driver to the center of the recess using pieces of cardboard, then lightly punched dimples into the MDF using a transfer punch. The punch centers on the driver's screw hole for an accurate layout. The driver must not move between punches in different holes, and the shims combined with a 25lb driver were sufficient."

That's from the link you gave me.

So what drill bits do I need to actually make the holes for this to happen?

And when they say they put the T Nut in and then clamp into place... is that all? I looked around online and it definitely mentions that you need to screw in place to get the TNut teeth to bite into the wood but that it doesn't work well with MDF? So should I just use threaded inserts instead?

Sorry for the hundreds of questions, I just have 0 woodworking knowledge when it comes to this. The most I ever use a screw driver for is to insert and take out screws for electronics/PC stuff.

Since the front is a double baffle should I Predrill through each piece separately or can I clamp both together and drill my pre drill hole through both?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

congrats tential.

pre-drilling the holes and using a coarse thread screw is another option. these have a socket head for better looks and to help prevent putting the screwdriver through the surround.



oh, called "Low Profile Head Socket Cap Self Tapping Screws". i'm sure you could find something in the 'thousands of screws' isle at the box store.

Is it still recommended that I use a threaded insert of some kind to hold those into place as well?

Edit: Also those pictures I posted, so am I in trouble with how those pieces ended up? First pic, is that crack something I need to worry about or can I fix that with bondo? How do I fix the part where the wood split there in the second pic?
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post #22 of 35 Old 05-28-2014, 10:58 AM
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water some glue down and let it seep into the cracks if u are worried. don't use t nuts just screws like above t nuts are just a mess.
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post #23 of 35 Old 05-30-2014, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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K so I've done some research to figure out the most noob friendly way to assure that I'm not worried.

Mounting the sub, I wanted to use straight wood screws as Tnuts seem like a hassle and I keep reading about how people messed up the mounting holes completely with them. So I looked around and saw this while looking for subwoofer spikes:
http://www.daytonaudio.com/media/resources/dayton-audio-dss4-installation-instructions-installation-guide.pdf
So my steps for mounting it would be simply predrill
coat the screw/hole with glue and then just then just tighten it in with a hex wrench which I do actually have.

Just wanted to check and make sure that that was all OK before I do this all tonight.

Simple summary of questions:
Which Caulk should I pick up or can I pick up any?
Which Bondo/Wood Filler should I pick up or can I pick up any?
Can I predrill through a double baffle or do I need to do each one separately?
Are my steps for installing my threaded inserts correct? And how long of a threaded insert/screws should I use?
Not sure what to do about the second picture I posted though. I'm not sure if you can see it, but the wood is actually split there(so if i grab the edge I can actually peal a small portion of the wood back. Dunno how it split/cracked there just saw it while moving the sub). That's the only thing I'm not sure how to fix at this point at all. Any suggestions about that?

Been extremely worn out so sorry if questions seem redundant. Simply putting back together my B&W Speakers earlier so I could setup my surround sound was a struggle for me (Tweeter not plugged in, Amp not plugged in correctly, Cables not plugged all the way in etc.) so I've just been a little out of it. Was going to just wait a couple of weeks and finish this after my exam but I think I can actually have it mostly assembled in the next 2 days(where I've given myself a couple hours break from studying) so I might as well. It's just going to make any studying I'm doing impossible to do while I continue to solve math problems and think about how I want to finish this subwoofer up as well.
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post #24 of 35 Old 05-30-2014, 05:23 PM
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Which Caulk should I pick up or can I pick up any?

if your cuts are super clean, wood glude will seal it air tight.
if the cuts are not clear, pl premium expanding wood glue is one option to keep it air tight.

Can I predrill through a double baffle or do I need to do each one separately?

yes. one drilling through both is fine.

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post #25 of 35 Old 06-29-2014, 11:17 PM
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DONT use T-nuts. I just hit a hard bass note and my woofer popped out, the t-nuts came out with it.. lol Funny but also pissed me off.
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post #26 of 35 Old 06-29-2014, 11:18 PM
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DONT use T-nuts. Here is the picture. It didn't attach above.

Attachment 141866
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post #27 of 35 Old 06-30-2014, 05:33 AM
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I would also suggest that you not use T-Nuts or Hurricane nuts if you are not an experienced builder as they are easy to screw up, (no pun intended!). I mount my drivers with course thread drywall screws. Get the ones that are 2" long and a good set of drill bits. As far as which drill bit to use, you want one that is slightly smaller than the screws. Perhaps a 1/4" bit.

For the caulk, use PL-premium on the joints while you are assembling the enclosure, if it's too late for that, use a bead of what ever kind of caulk or wood glue that you prefer.
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post #28 of 35 Old 06-30-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlhaudio View Post
DONT use T-nuts. Here is the picture. It didn't attach above.

Attachment 141866
The T-Nuts should be installed on the BACK of the baffle, not on the face... That's why it popped out.

If it's not a BIG screen, it's not a theater...
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post #29 of 35 Old 06-30-2014, 03:15 PM
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I mounted mine by simply using #8 1 1/4" wood screws and I drove them in with cordless drill. No pilot holes. The driver is holding perfectly so far.
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post #30 of 35 Old 06-30-2014, 03:18 PM
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I know, that was my fault. My friend was helping me with my build and put the subwoofer together. I didn't check on it because I was building the other one. Oh well, easy fix but it did catch me off guard.

Last edited by rlhaudio; 06-30-2014 at 03:58 PM.
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