Help with 1st DIY Project - Sub for 2.1 stereo setup - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello all!
Recently I was looking to possibly build some DIY bookshelves and a sub for my living room (6000 cu ft.). After much advice I have decided to start with just building a sub to get my hands wet. The goal here is musical integration with the Philharmonics I have recently purchased.
I would preferr to use a flatpack, so my fist experience is just assembly and finishing.

This sub will be in a living area so needs to look fairly good and cant be huge so lets put a rough size limit to 24"x24"x24", with some wiggle room in each dimension.
I will most likely be painting it myself, as I have access to a spray gun and a place to paint. Not sure how this will end up looking yet.

So I was hoping for recommendations on getting the best bang for my buck musically first and HT wise 2nd.
The use will be about 50/50 TV/Music.. and I'm not looking to listen at extreme levels just reasonably lively.
I do have a 2nd area dedicated to the a serious HT/entertainment room. So hopefully if this build goes well Ill be building something much larger for that area once I get the plans figured out.

Recommendations:
1. Kits I should look at ? (Sealed or ported?)
2. Electronics to power said sub?
3. Best driver to use?
4. Help me make sure I order all the right "other stuff" needed to make the sub.

Also I am starting with 1 sub, but can possible expand to 2 if there is a need, but I want to do this one at a time.

Budget: 1000$ (Less if I can w/o Sacrificing the music) for electronics, driver, flatpack, and accessories. (Tools not included)

Thanks for your help!, Im looking to pull the trigger this week.

So far I have found:

Another others I should be looking at?

Thanks for any help you all provide in advance!
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post #2 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 01:36 PM
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In a 5000 cuft room ported is the way to go unless you want 4 or more sealed. Here is a graph of Dayton 18 ho sub in 4cuft, and martycube

Sealed is blue and black is martycube.
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post #3 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Chalugadp!
Is the Dayton the driver to have at 18"? I read about the SI drive that is discontinued that everyone seemed to like.

Can you run a MC in a downward firing position?
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post #4 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 01:45 PM
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Driver is dependent upon $ you want to spend and availability. The si 18 is being released in about a month and is just over 200 shipped. It gives you more wiring options for amp.

Dayton 18 ho available now for 250. Same performance virtually. Ixl 18 a little better for 300. Uxl18 is 3 to 4 dbs better but costs 500.

Yes mc can be bottom firing
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post #5 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Is there any downside to making it downward firing?
I'm hoping I can finish this nicely enough to pass as a table. =)

With the UXL will is perform better musically? Or is the cost difference just more db in the same size?
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post #6 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 02:07 PM
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With down firing you have to make sure driver is ok doing it. Some will sag. Uxl18 can handle double the power and has more xmax. There is debate about musicality. I think most would say at the same spl subs sound the same. Uxl18 handles being driven hard really well. If your only going to have two subs in that huge room then Uxl18 would make a huge difference. If you go the route of four I would use the si 18d4 with the inuke3000 dsp.
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post #7 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 02:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Again thanks man!

For the electronics part... seems like everyone mentions the Inukes... are there any alternatives that should also be looked at?
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post #8 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 02:23 PM
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At the price point of 300 to 400 it's tough to beat the inuke dsp. If you spend more you will get a nicer looking amp and some say it performs better. I'm really happy with my two inuke3000 dsp. Here's my setup
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post #9 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice looking woodwork on there!

I would assume those silver devices are the inukes... they are an eye sore =(
I think I would have to somehow hide those!

So I have a give you some grief - I bet the golf sounds great on that ;-P

But all joking aside, I love the setup - I'm a sucker for pin striping =)

Thanks for the advice man.

What other things do I need to finish the sub?
Binding posts?
Acoustic padding/stuffing?

Tools:
Clamps
Wood glue
Air brush
Sand paper + block
Drill
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post #10 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 02:48 PM
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You can paint the inukes black. I don't mind the silver.. Don't love em but they don't bother me.

You need speakon connectors, speakon cables,.

Tool wise a laminate router is very helpful for flush trimming and roundovers. Also need to cut out driver.
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post #11 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I thought the flatpacks had the driver cutout and recess already done? Not the case?
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post #12 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 03:43 PM
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Yes my flatpack does. I forgot you weren't making it all. I'm responding to a few threads smile.gif
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post #13 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Well actually you got me thinking about making it myself =)

But in looking I can seem to find a place that has the uxl-18 for sale. Only place I saw was out of stock.
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post #14 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theblackangus View Post

Well actually you got me thinking about making it myself =)

But in looking I can seem to find a place that has the uxl-18 for sale. Only place I saw was out of stock.

You really could do it by yourself. You will feel proud and then you will want to build more. If you email Mark at ist you can preorder uxl18. THey should be shipping them out again in 4-6 weeks. I definitely can do it for you if you want but I will answer any questions you have whether you build it yourself or I do. If you do it yourself you want a router, tablesaw or at least skillsaw, drill, and some patience.
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post #15 of 66 Old 05-18-2014, 05:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

You really could do it by yourself. You will feel proud and then you will want to build more. If you email Mark at ist you can preorder uxl18. They should be shipping them out again in 4-6 weeks. I definitely can do it for you if you want but I will answer any questions you have whether you build it yourself or I do. If you do it yourself you want a router, tablesaw or at least skillsaw, drill, and some patience.

Thanks man you are a gentleman and a scholar!
I'm not sure on the patience thing on my part - how necessary is that really? biggrin.gif
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post #16 of 66 Old 05-21-2014, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks to chalugadp's help I have begun my project.
I chose to go with the martycube for the space constraints and will most likely use the UXL-18 for the driver.
I am going for a downward firing downward ported martycube, which should look like a table when complete if I'm at all successful. =)

The MDF is now cut with the exception of the driver hole.
I have acquired a router, glue, clamps.
Email off to IST to see if I can use the UXL-18 in a downward firing position. (And get on the order list)
Next step... clean up my work area.... =)

Once the work area is clean I will be posting some pictures.
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post #17 of 66 Old 05-21-2014, 04:26 PM
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Sweet
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post #18 of 66 Old 05-22-2014, 11:32 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theblackangus View Post

Nice looking woodwork on there!

I would assume those silver devices are the inukes... they are an eye sore =(
I think I would have to somehow hide those!

So I have a give you some grief - I bet the golf sounds great on that ;-P

But all joking aside, I love the setup - I'm a sucker for pin striping =)

Thanks for the advice man.

What other things do I need to finish the sub?
Binding posts?
Acoustic padding/stuffing?

Tools:
Clamps
Wood glue
Air brush
Sand paper + block
Drill

Bondo for filling seams
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post #19 of 66 Old 05-22-2014, 11:03 PM
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I am trying to put together my first DIY sub but I have a woofer that has quick connects for the plate amp (the metal hook flaps) while the plate amp I bought in china just has some raw wiring at the end. Can I just solder the wire without the quick connect heads?

 

Also, I realized that a 12" subwoofer actually only has an 8" driver. Very curious as to what that 12" refers to now... its only 6" tall, 8" in diameter and the circumference is 29" so where is the 12" from?

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post #20 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 04:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

Bondo for filling seams

So you are not using bondo in place of wood glue are you?
Just to fill the panel joints?
I as going to do a bead of wood glue to seal.

So process:
Screw and glue panels
Dry
Bondo all joints where the panels meet?
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post #21 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 05:55 AM
 
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Originally Posted by DNZone View Post

I am trying to put together my first DIY sub but I have a woofer that has quick connects for the plate amp (the metal hook flaps) while the plate amp I bought in china just has some raw wiring at the end. Can I just solder the wire without the quick connect heads?

Also, I realized that a 12" subwoofer actually only has an 8" driver. Very curious as to what that 12" refers to now... its only 6" tall, 8" in diameter and the circumference is 29" so where is the 12" from?

Just use the quick connects with the raw wire you don't need to solder. that makes no sense it's either named wrong or a scam. The subwoofer size ONLY refers to driver diameter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theblackangus View Post

So you are not using bondo in place of wood glue are you?
Just to fill the panel joints?
I as going to do a bead of wood glue to seal.

So process:
Screw and glue panels
Dry
Bondo all joints where the panels meet?

yes you have to wood glue. The bondo makes the seams a smooth surface. To seal with wood glue I like doing a bead of glue around the inside seams to prevent air leaks. The bondo will seal the surface. Bondo will fill any imperfections and it will be smooth if you sand it right. Sand it with 80 grit to make it flat and then finish with 150 grit before paint. The flatness and smoothness of your box will depend on how good of a job you do with the bondo. Paint can't cover imperfections it will just show through so you have to bondo.
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post #22 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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JWagSTaff - Thanks sir!
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post #23 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNZone View Post

I am trying to put together my first DIY sub but I have a woofer that has quick connects for the plate amp (the metal hook flaps) while the plate amp I bought in china just has some raw wiring at the end. Can I just solder the wire without the quick connect heads?

Also, I realized that a 12" subwoofer actually only has an 8" driver. Very curious as to what that 12" refers to now... its only 6" tall, 8" in diameter and the circumference is 29" so where is the 12" from?

The total outer diam. is around 12" , Makes it "sound" more impressive.
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post #24 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 02:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are the starting images it begin's to take shape.



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post #25 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 02:59 PM
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We need close up pics smile.gif
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post #26 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

We need close up pics smile.gif

Lol! thats not close enough?
Oh you asked for it....


This was just the dry fitting exercise, to make sure everything is as it should be.
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post #27 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 06:52 PM
 
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We need close up pics smile.gif

enhance!! :P
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post #28 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 07:03 PM
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The total outer diam. is around 12" , Makes it "sound" more impressive.

 

Ok so Chinese inches are different, thats why it came out to 8"... However the driver itself is still 10.8". The rim is what makes it 12". Thank god I had my cabinet made in millimeters.

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post #29 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post

We need close up pics smile.gif

enhance!! :P

That's not hidef :sly:
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post #30 of 66 Old 05-23-2014, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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More Pics as the progress starts.









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