First DIY project of any kind. Update: Started! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 44 Old 06-03-2014, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey, everyone. I have been fascinated with the DIY section for a while now and have always wanted to try to do something. The problem is that I have absolutely zero background in anything DIY related (other than assembling furniture). However, I've decided to give it a try.

I think that I want to try a cheap, small project that will have a little bit of everything, including veneering. I was thinking about the overnight sensation kit. They are relatively cheap, small, can be used in various different locations and, if I screw up, I won't feel so bad about it. I just want to make sure that this would be a good project to start with. My goal is to eventually build some subs and something like the 1099's. Any advice/thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!


Checklist:

1. Glue top, sides, front and bottom of both speakers...Done!

2. Drill holes for binding posts... Done!

3. Sand outside of both speakers... Done!

4. Stain/veneer speakers... Done!

5. Build crossover...2 of 2 Done!

6. Test Crossover...2 of 2 Done!

7. Install crossover... Done!

8. Install back of speaker... Done!

9. Listen to speaker... Done!


Last edited by hogues; 06-23-2014 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Finished checklist
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post #2 of 44 Old 06-03-2014, 05:09 PM
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every one starts with zero background starting with a small build seems find b/c u can use them for surrounds later smile.gif
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post #3 of 44 Old 06-03-2014, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, cookieattk. Eventually I would love to learn woodworking, but I have to master the other stuff first, I think.

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post #4 of 44 Old 06-03-2014, 06:44 PM
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I started with a no experience, borrowed tools, and a lot of questions. Came out with a full Marty and all ten fingers. You can do it.
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post #5 of 44 Old 06-03-2014, 09:28 PM
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I think the Overnight Sensations would be an excellent choice to start out with.
Though not new to woodworking, I was new to DIY speakers and wanted to build a small bookshelf kit. For me, it came down to the OS and the GR Research XLS kit. I ended up choosing the XLS, though the OS seems to be a lot more popular and well regarded.
A smaller bookshelf build is simple enough, and a fun way to get started. Plus the finishing is a lot easier than a massive subwoofer box.

Good luck.
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post #6 of 44 Old 06-04-2014, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply guys. I ordered the OS last night and I'm excited about getting started. Now I just have to look into veneer vs stain, etc...
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post #7 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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So I got the kit from Eric with everything perfectly packaged. So far I have glued the cabinets together minus the back and they look pretty good. Today i plan to sand them and drill the two holes in the back for the speaker terminals. Eric's directions call for a 1/4" hole, don't know why that seems big (probably because I'm worried about messing it up). I think that I have some hardwood floor samples around, so I may practice on that.

I am pretty nervous about the crossover, since I've never done anything like this before. I actually bought one of those kits that teach kids how to solder just to practice. I did not think about what I was going to put the components on before I bought the kit and now I'm trying to come up with ideas. I don't really have any tools to cut wood with. I do have hardwood samples that are 5x7" which should be able to fit in the speaker, but I'm not sure if that is a good idea. Has anyone ever used cardboard? I'm worried that there would be too much heat and burn the cardboard. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Finally, I have to decide how to finish them. I was originally thinking about veneer, but I don't know. It may be a bit much for my first project. I am now thinking about a darker stain.

So, that's where I am right now. More updates to follow.


Last edited by hogues; 06-20-2014 at 09:40 PM.
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post #8 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 12:10 PM
 
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make sure you fill the cracks or any imperfection with bondo and sand !
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post #9 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post
I am pretty nervous about the crossover, since I've never done anything like this before. I actually bought one of those kits that teach kids how to solder just to practice. 

 

You might add your location to your login/ID... you might just get someone to volunteer to swing by and help you in exchange for beer!  ;  )

 

But, i really wanted to ask:  Did you find the teaching-kids-soldering kit helpful?  If so, can you link to what you used?  I was just going to mess about with wire scraps, but that sounds more productive.  Wood, cars, furniture, house stuff, 120v wiring I have no (err, not many) problems, but small electronics seem to hate me ... "teach a kid to solder" sounds like it might be quite useful!

 

Good luck with the build -- you'll get there before you know it!

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post #10 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 01:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreakishlyTall View Post

You might add your location to your login/ID... you might just get someone to volunteer to swing by and help you in exchange for beer!  ;  )

But, i really wanted to ask:  Did you find the teaching-kids-soldering kit helpful?  If so, can you link to what you used?  I was just going to mess about with wire scraps, but that sounds more productive.  Wood, cars, furniture, house stuff, 120v wiring I have no (err, not many) problems, but small electronics seem to hate me ... "teach a kid to solder" sounds like it might be quite useful!

Good luck with the build -- you'll get there before you know it!

I used this one. Frankly, it did help me and I'm glad that I bought it. I may get one of those soldering stations on Amazon, but this one gave me the basics (I hope!).

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post #11 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JWagstaff View Post

make sure you fill the cracks or any imperfection with bondo and sand !

I was wondering about that. If I use Bondo, won't it defeat the purpose of staining? I like the stained wood look. I was thinking about using the speaker caulk from parts express along the inside of the frame along all of the joints to make sure that they are sealed. Is this not a good idea? thanks for the help!

BTW, I love the look of your Fusion build!

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post #12 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 01:59 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

I was wondering about that. If I use Bondo, won't it defeat the purpose of staining? I like the stained wood look. I was thinking about using the speaker caulk from parts express along the inside of the frame along all of the joints to make sure that they are sealed. Is this not a good idea? thanks for the help!

BTW, I love the look of your Fusion build!

Thanks, and yes you can't stain Bondo. You have MDF cabinets though, right? You can't really stain MDF without veneering it. It wouldn't look good. Just get some paperback veneer.
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post #13 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hogues View Post
I used this one. Frankly, it did help me and I'm glad that I bought it.

 

That's fantastic.  Thanks for the link.  Into the shopping cart it goes!

 

Good luck with the rest of your build....

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post #14 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, and yes you can't stain Bondo. You have MDF cabinets though, right? You can't really stain MDF without veneering it. It wouldn't look good. Just get some paperback veneer.

The Mt version of the Os is Baltic birch, I think that the MTM version is MDF. Maybe I'll try the veneer, though.

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post #15 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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That's fantastic.  Thanks for the link.  Into the shopping cart it goes!

Good luck with the rest of your build....

Thanks!

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post #16 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

I was thinking about using the speaker caulk from parts express along the inside of the frame along all of the joints to make sure that they are sealed. Is this not a good idea? thanks for the help!

Though it wouldn't hurt... I don't think that would be needed. With the box being CNC cut, they should be pretty tight, and the glue would take care of it being air tight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogues View Post

The Mt version of the Os is Baltic birch, I think that the MTM version is MDF. Maybe I'll try the veneer, though.

If you have the baltic birch version of the OS, you are fine to stain. There wouldn't be a need for veneer unless you were going after a certain natural look or wanting to cover up the end grain.
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post #17 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 06:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Though it wouldn't hurt... I don't think that would be needed. With the box being CNC cut, they should be pretty tight, and the glue would take care of it being air tight.
If you have the baltic birch version of the OS, you are fine to stain. There wouldn't be a need for veneer unless you were going after a certain natural look or wanting to cover up the end grain.

Thanks. I just cut a practice hole into a random piece of wood for the binding posts and they were really loose. I'm worried that that I am doing something wrong here. I am using these from DIY sound group. Are they supposed to be tapped in past the threads?

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post #18 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 07:07 PM
 
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Make the hole a tiny bit smaller so you can squeeze the binding post in. If you need to fill any seams use wood filler instead of bondo, as you can stain wood filler. I didn't know your box was birch
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post #19 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 07:20 PM
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If you use the right drill bit you should be able to turn the post in like a screw all the way. Can't remember the size off the top of my head.

No need for bondo on a speaker build unless you are doing some seriously crooked cuts or flush mounting a seos waveguide. If your not accurate, leave pieces with overhang and flush trim.
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post #20 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 07:27 PM
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The section of the binding post that has longitudinal grooves (splines) should press into the wood. The hex nut portion near the black and red portions should come flush to the outside of the cabinet.

When selecting a drill bit, you can hold both up in front of your face, with one behind the other. The drill bit should be the same size as the outer edges of the threaded portion of the binding post, but not quite as wide as the splined portion. The splines will need some pressure to set them into the wood. You might use one of the nuts to seat the splined section of the post into the wood. I used a drop of wood glue when I set mine in, but you shouldn't need to (only do that once you're sure you've got the right fit).


(click to embiggen)
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post #21 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the responses. The help is really appreciated.

Fred, that photo is exactly what I needed.

I sanded both boxes tonight, cut the holes and even did a rough mockup of the crossover on cardboard. Even though I'm not very far along yet, I'm really enjoying this. I also like getting ideas from the links in your sigs. Now I want a nice gloss finish like JWagstaff, a Marty cube flat pack from chalugadp and Fred's theater.biggrin.gif

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post #22 of 44 Old 06-09-2014, 09:00 PM
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You can get 1/8" 2x4' hardboard from homedepot and cut to size, mount the crossovers on that.

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post #23 of 44 Old 06-10-2014, 05:50 AM
 
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If you use the right drill bit you should be able to turn the post in like a screw all the way. Can't remember the size off the top of my head.

No need for bondo on a speaker build unless you are doing some seriously crooked cuts or flush mounting a seos waveguide. If your not accurate, leave pieces with overhang and flush trim

You don't need bondo for veneer but you do if you're painting it and you don't want seams to show through the paint. (well painting with anything but duratex)
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post #24 of 44 Old 06-10-2014, 08:51 AM
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You don't need bondo for veneer but you do if you're painting it and you don't want seams to show through the paint. (well painting with anything but duratex)

Wouldn't the seams show through on the veneer if you don't use something to fill in the seams?
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post #25 of 44 Old 06-10-2014, 08:59 AM
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Not with paperback.
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post #26 of 44 Old 06-10-2014, 10:41 AM
 
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they'll show through if the seams are big, but if you have a flatpack the seams are small enough they won't show.
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post #27 of 44 Old 06-10-2014, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I think that I'm just going to stain this time to see what it looks like. I think that these will be used as computer speakers but I plan on doing bedroom speakers in the near future, so I am going to go with veneer then. Now I just have to decide what to use. I have been watching staining videos and reading threads about staining baltic birch and I am fairly confident that I won't totally screw it up. I realized that this was an awful time to start this project as I have very little free time over the next two weeks. It's going to drive me crazy.

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post #28 of 44 Old 06-12-2014, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I picked up some stain and I'm hoping that it looks good. Is there any reason that I couldn't stain one side of the back panel just to make sure that I like it? Thanks.

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post #29 of 44 Old 06-12-2014, 12:21 PM
 
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nope that would be fine, better would be to test stain a piece of wood that isn't your speaker, but since it's a flatpack I'm guessing you don't have any scraps.

You could also try the bottom of the speaker or the inside of the speaker to be safer.
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post #30 of 44 Old 06-12-2014, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I actually do have some extra wood lying around but it was not baltic birch and I'm afraid that it would not come out the same.

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