HELP 1st time DIY -> Highest quality, cost effective finish (high gloss black, satin black.. etc) - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
Gorilla83 -> so the pine is not good as wood for the enclosure?


When you say the texture you want to achieve.... Means what sorry?
I wouldn't use pine simply because it's so knotty and typically not very straight. If you have access to MDF that is a far better choice.

Texture = the "feel" and look to the surface of the paint. The rougher roller (like the foam roller from Duratex) will create a "textured" / raised look. The smoother rollers will be a finer, less coarse finish. I happen to like the former on most of my projects.


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post #32 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 05:11 AM
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Instead of all these compromises, why not buy CNC pre fab boxes for kits that were already designed and tested?

You can buy flat packs and just glue them up instead of all the compromises because you can't get the preferred materials.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/flat-packs-1.html

If you do a search for duratex finishes on google (images) a picture is worth a 1000.....

https://www.google.com/search?q=dura...w=1366&bih=667

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post #33 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 05:55 AM
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In the picture above where the cutouts for the drivers is surrounded by a nice wooden inlay, I'm curious about the radius of the corners. I assume with say 3/4" MDF or Birch Plywood that getting a corner radius that large would not be possible. How was it done?

Sorry if this is hijacking the thread! But it's a really nice looking subwoofer and I love the size of the radius.

 

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J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #34 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 06:00 AM
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because the shipping + duty + taxes make the boxes ridiculously expensive compared to building them yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post
In the picture above where the cutouts for the drivers is surrounded by a nice wooden inlay, I'm curious about the radius of the corners. I assume with say 3/4" MDF or Birch Plywood that getting a corner radius that large would not be possible. How was it done?

Sorry if this is hijacking the thread! But it's a really nice looking subwoofer and I love the size of the radius.
Double or triple thick front baffle, maybe double thick side
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post #35 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post
In the picture above where the cutouts for the drivers is surrounded by a nice wooden inlay, I'm curious about the radius of the corners. I assume with say 3/4" MDF or Birch Plywood that getting a corner radius that large would not be possible. How was it done?

Sorry if this is hijacking the thread! But it's a really nice looking subwoofer and I love the size of the radius.
Ive spun 3/4 radius roundovers on speakers before on only single layer 3/4 mdf. The roundover doesnt affect the surface area of the glue joint, and strength wise the corners are the strongest points on the box.

One thing to note, a 3/4 roundover in a handheld router is a bear of a handful and not for a beginner or the faint of heart. I recommend starting with a 1/2" roundover then going back over it with the 3/4 so your not cutting off a butt load of material at a time.

Variable speed router is preferred for a bit that size to slow rpms so that the outer tip of that bit isnt traveling at the speed of light.... LOL.

It does look seexy though!
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post #36 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
Ok I can get 3/4" MDF.... Should I just pull the trigger on that and not look any further, or is there something better?
You want something void free, so MDF or baltic birch is the general recommendation.
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post #37 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Like Bassment mentioned. I can get the MDF local a 4x8 sheet for about $145. I think this will be a lot cheaper than ordering in the cabs, paying shipping, duty, freight, custom officer, and duty.


Anything I bring in my island will be at least 2 times the price.


Let me know though, we may be wrong.


The Duratex looks amazing. But to cut cost I will not finish my speakers till more funds are available. I am on a tight budget, and need to maximize performance.


Thank you.
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post #38 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Audio Geek -> I do not think I can get the Baltic birch, but if I can I will. If not I will just get the MDF.
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post #39 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 07:05 AM
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Baltic birch is stronger, but if you don't move the speakers a lot, MDF is fine. Many hate the MDF dust, but you should be using a good dust mask anyways. With BB, stain is an option.
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post #40 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Audio Geek -> Perfect thank you, I will see if I can get the BB, if not I'll just MDF.

Thanks a lot!
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post #41 of 41 Old 07-23-2014, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post
Duratex is the EASIEST speaker coating you can buy IMO.

It is astounding how easy it is to get a professional looking finish with a simple 4" foam roller. I mean this stuff was MADE for newbs.

Its water based.

No fumes.

Dries quick.

Durable.

It doesn't get a lot of love in the DIY crowds because its not very glamourous. If you want a finish that really shows off the speaker then its not the choice.
it gets plenty of love from me! Duratex is awesome, and i think a black, uniform, no nonsense finish looks great on speaker or sub.


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