The wife wants subs - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 20Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
The wife wants subs

My wife decided we needed two 18" subs and I need a new project around the house...so I will be building them. After reading post after post I think I want to do a ported box instead of a sealed box. Due to the spot I want to put the subs in my oddly shaped room I don't have a ton of space side to side to work with I may have to go with sealed for space contrasts.

I was thinking either put the subs in the left corner which dimensions are about 28"x35"x 24"(left wall,back wall, right side of nook wall)


Or I was thinking move my AV ( which is getting replaced soon) and the rest of my components into the corner nook and put the subs under the TV and put the center channel on top of them. Between speakers I have about 58" left to right, 34'' from the floor to the bottom of the TV and I would feel comfortable going no more than 24'' from the wall outward.


Previously in that room I had the older version of the now SVS Pb12 Plus and It did OK but obviously more is better. I'm guessing with two front firing front ported subs compared to a down firing up ported sub it would sound better regardless of displacement size.

I would like to get started on the boxes this weekend and after all the great things I have been reading the Martycube sub seems to be a good choice for SQ and dimensions. They would fit under the TV great, or make two mid-size Martys just make them taller and stack them in the corner.

I was going to get pretty much whatever anyone says to get in regards to subs, so either SI 4ohm's (if they are available any time soon) two would be $400 or two of the Dayton H0-4's about $500 for two. Amp going with a Inuke6000 because that seems to be what all the kids are doing these days.

The rooms about 1000 square feet with 8ft ceilings and its closed off from the rest of the house. My seating will most likely change after I install some risers and put in the Projector with drop down screen. If budget allows I want to do some acoustic treatment on the wall behind the TV as well.

So where would you put the subs, corner or under the TV?

Is waiting for the SI's worth it to save $100 over the Daytons and will I get a noticeable gain going with the Daytons?

Lastly, would I be missing output if I just went with the parts express flatpack+dayton 18" combos over the Martys?

After reading some other threads this morning, cost wise would I be better off with 4 GTO1514 in a sealed box and a inuke3000 to save some cash?

Any suggestions or help would be much appreciated.The lady needs some subs.
lemonslush is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 05:43 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 10,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1986
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
So where would you put the subs, corner or under the TV?
Where testing reveals that they work the best, which may be none of the above. Perhaps one in the corner and one under the TV may work. You absolutely should discard the idea of having both in the same spot, as that does nothing to smooth room response. The point of multiple subs isn't output, it's smoothing response, which means placing them in different locations so that they don't excite the same room modes and suffer the same boundary sourced nulls.
I'd also do something to get the L/R speakers separated. They're so close together that you can't really hear them as separate L/R sources unless you're sitting less than 5 feet out. Ideally they'd be separated by almost the same distance as that from them to the LP.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is offline  
post #3 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
Where testing reveals that they work the best, which may be none of the above. Perhaps one in the corner and one under the TV may work. You absolutely should discard the idea of having both in the same spot, as that does nothing to smooth room response. The point of multiple subs isn't output, it's smoothing response, which means placing them in different locations so that they don't excite the same room modes and suffer the same boundary sourced nulls.
I'd also do something to get the L/R speakers separated. They're so close together that you can't really hear them as separate L/R sources unless you're sitting less than 5 feet out. Ideally they'd be separated by almost the same distance as that from them to the LP.
That might work, I could maybe throw on in the far right corner of the room and another in the left corner. The front speaker placement is a tough on. The room is a odd shape. My only other option would be to flip the room around entirely and use the back wall which would give me some added space.
lemonslush is offline  
post #4 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 06:10 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 10,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1986
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
That might work, I could maybe throw on in the far right corner of the room and another in the left corner. The front speaker placement is a tough on. The room is a odd shape. My only other option would be to flip the room around entirely and use the back wall which would give me some added space.
Or put the TV etc on a side wall. Most people tend to put the screen on the narrower wall, it should usually go on the wider.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is offline  
post #5 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
Or put the TV etc on a side wall. Most people tend to put the screen on the narrower wall, it should usually go on the wider.
When we moved into the house the previous owners had their TV setup there so I put mine there primarily because the cable outlet was there. Since I could have easily moved if before I decided to run all of my wires for the 4 surround speakers might have been a good idea.
More so on the sub side. Would I be at a big disadvantage going with sealed boxes? Those dayton flat packs seem to be a easy setup. Or make 4 sealed boxes for those jbl 15's?
lemonslush is offline  
post #6 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 07:41 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 10,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1986
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
Would I be at a big disadvantage going with sealed boxes? Those dayton flat packs seem to be a easy setup. Or make 4 sealed boxes for those jbl 15's?
With your small room sealed cabs should suffice. The JBLs are optimized for auto sound, in the recommended 1.5 cu ft they won't go low in a room. They need at least 4 cu ft for HT.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is offline  
post #7 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
if I just went with two 18's, are the Daytons worth the extra cash over the SI's? I probably could swing the inuke3000 with the SI'?
lemonslush is offline  
post #8 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 08:02 AM
Member
 
FireDust58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 27
It's been a while since I've posted here so I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I recently went with two SI 18 D2, Inuke 3000 DSP, and built my own "marty cubes" There is an excellent, but long thread in here - it's too bad the Mods shut it down since there was so much more discussion than "sales" IMHO.

From a modeling standpoint the SI performed better than the dayton, though, real world listening would probably be hard to distinguish a difference (I have no personal experience with the dayton sub).

I too, was really tempted by the sealed sub enclosure - I still wonder how different they would sound - but am really very happy with the ported marty cube and having very little handyman skills found it to be quite easy to build (though mine are not pretty).
lemonslush likes this.
FireDust58 is offline  
post #9 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 08:36 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDust58 View Post
It's been a while since I've posted here so I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I recently went with two SI 18 D2, Inuke 3000 DSP, and built my own "marty cubes" There is an excellent, but long thread in here - it's too bad the Mods shut it down since there was so much more discussion than "sales" IMHO.

From a modeling standpoint the SI performed better than the dayton, though, real world listening would probably be hard to distinguish a difference (I have no personal experience with the dayton sub).

I too, was really tempted by the sealed sub enclosure - I still wonder how different they would sound - but am really very happy with the ported marty cube and having very little handyman skills found it to be quite easy to build (though mine are not pretty).
Did you go by the dimensions in this post
Martysub Flatpacks/Veneer Flatpacks
to build the Marty Cube?

Or did you buy the flat pack? I would have home depot cut the wood for me.
lemonslush is offline  
post #10 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
Also did you have to use a ART Cleanbox Pro and ROLLS or some type of volt converter for the RCA's?
lemonslush is offline  
post #11 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 11:25 AM
Member
 
FireDust58's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 27
I took the cut list into home depot and had them cut it for me. I did not use any voltage converter for the RCAs. The shopping list at the end of post #1 was my list of equipment that I purchased, so I just go the RCA to XLR adapter . I have way more than enough signal to drive these subs hard, typically my Denon 2113 is set to -9db on the sub trim, while the gain on the 3kDSP is around the 1 or 2 o'clock position for normal movie watching YMMV.

Also, looking at that post again, if you plan to put this in the corner where you have additional height, you may want to look into the mini-marty since it sits a little taller and gives a little deeper extension.(black (cube) vs. green (mini) line in the graph).




FireDust58 is offline  
post #12 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
With the Inuke3000, did you get the 4ohm SI and hook them up bridged or parallel?
lemonslush is offline  
post #13 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 01:40 PM
Senior Member
 
antisuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 440
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Liked: 98
Nothing useful to add, just wanted to say congrats on the awesome wife.
antisuck is offline  
post #14 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 02:37 PM
Advanced Member
 
tential's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 623
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by antisuck View Post
Nothing useful to add, just wanted to say congrats on the awesome wife.
Seriously lol I'm surprised it went so long without anyone saying anything.

"The wife decided we needed two 18" subs", only in most AVSforum member's dreams.
tential is offline  
post #15 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 03:37 PM
Senior Member
 
Bill Shenefelt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irwin, Pa USA 15642 (near Pittsburgh)
Posts: 379
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by tential View Post
Seriously lol I'm surprised it went so long without anyone saying anything.

"The wife decided we needed two 18" subs", only in most AVSforum member's dreams.
Usually ported enclosures can give a higher efficiency meaning more output per watt input. A ported box will have a higher cutoff frequency than a sealed box but will not roll off over a long span of octaves and will have much better output down to the -3dB point. Ported will give usually better "punch" but not as low of an extension. For a good sub down to about 34 cps, a 15 inch JBL 136A (Qtot .2 and fs 15cps) in a 5.5 cu ft box has real slam. With movies you may want a lower cutoff but not really for most all music. I have an 18 inch JBL in a 6 cu ft box ported. I preferred the sound of 12dB/octave port loading rolloff at around 30 cps. to a 6th order boosted low end equalization to get into the lower 20 cps range. Sounds great with the harrier jet in True Lies.
As much as speaker quality, box rigidity is critical. Go with at least 3/4 inch thick cabinet grade high density particle board with 2x2 hardwood bracing along all seams (screw the particle board to the 2"x2" framing material every 6 inches) as well as divide the length of long sides with a 2x2 across the face. This is not flooring flake board!!! If you go with a high quality long excursion 18 inch driver, go with 1.125 inch thick high density particle board if you can find some. Also put one from front to back . Glue and screw! Upi cam just use screws and silicon sealant for a gasket material on the baffle so it can be removed if necessary later. It may sound crazy but you can have a 6 inch diameter port and a small hole like 1/4 inch diameter will screw it up. Can I assume you want two subs to put them at different places in the room to help ward off standing waves and not to attain higher sound levels? Doubling the power or the number of speakers does not do a lot to the volume of the sound. It is like 3 dB which is barely discernible.

Bill Shenefelt
http://sheneskillies.com
william.shenefelt@verizon.net
Bill Shenefelt is offline  
post #16 of 109 Old 06-12-2014, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Shenefelt View Post
Usually ported enclosures can give a higher efficiency meaning more output per watt input. A ported box will have a higher cutoff frequency than a sealed box but will not roll off over a long span of octaves and will have much better output down to the -3dB point. Ported will give usually better "punch" but not as low of an extension. For a good sub down to about 34 cps, a 15 inch JBL 136A (Qtot .2 and fs 15cps) in a 5.5 cu ft box has real slam. With movies you may want a lower cutoff but not really for most all music. I have an 18 inch JBL in a 6 cu ft box ported. I preferred the sound of 12dB/octave port loading rolloff at around 30 cps. to a 6th order boosted low end equalization to get into the lower 20 cps range. Sounds great with the harrier jet in True Lies.
As much as speaker quality, box rigidity is critical. Go with at least 3/4 inch thick cabinet grade high density particle board with 2x2 hardwood bracing along all seams (screw the particle board to the 2"x2" framing material every 6 inches) as well as divide the length of long sides with a 2x2 across the face. This is not flooring flake board!!! If you go with a high quality long excursion 18 inch driver, go with 1.125 inch thick high density particle board if you can find some. Also put one from front to back . Glue and screw! Upi cam just use screws and silicon sealant for a gasket material on the baffle so it can be removed if necessary later. It may sound crazy but you can have a 6 inch diameter port and a small hole like 1/4 inch diameter will screw it up. Can I assume you want two subs to put them at different places in the room to help ward off standing waves and not to attain higher sound levels? Doubling the power or the number of speakers does not do a lot to the volume of the sound. It is like 3 dB which is barely discernible.
First off my wife really did say
Wife- " I think we need some subs for this room".
Me- "What about an 18"?"
Wife- "No, I think we need two of them".

After dinner today she even asked If I wanted to go to Home Depot to pick up supplies.

Two subs in multiple locations would be idea but My room is rather odd. If you think having two in the same spot is not worth it.
If I made a mid size marty, could I stand the box upright and have the port firing up and the sub facing forward?

I gata make a decision soon, Im off work tomorrow and really wanted to get started.
lemonslush is offline  
post #17 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 12:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
blazar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 3,118
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 484 Post(s)
Liked: 413
I don't think this "wife" actually exists... Perhaps you need to get back on your meds?
SXRDISBEST and Kimeran like this.
blazar is online now  
post #18 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 12:56 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 10,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Shenefelt View Post
Doubling the power or the number of speakers does not do a lot to the volume of the sound. It is like 3 dB which is barely discernible.
Doubling power gets you 3dB, but doubling the number of speakers doubles the cone displacement, which gives 6dB. That's very discernible. In any event multiple subs isn't about about, it's about smoothing room response by having them placed well apart.

With a typical high quality 15 or 18 loaded sub ported has the advantage all the way down to 15Hz or so. It's only below that where sealed has higher sensitivity than ported, so if you're chasing single digits sealed is better. But you'll need a lot of them, as both power and excursion requirements way down low are very high.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is offline  
post #19 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 03:11 PM
Senior Member
 
Bill Shenefelt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irwin, Pa USA 15642 (near Pittsburgh)
Posts: 379
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post
Doubling power gets you 3dB, but doubling the number of speakers doubles the cone displacement, which gives 6dB. That's very discernible. In any event multiple subs isn't about about, it's about smoothing room response by having them placed well apart.
I agree it is the smoothing of response trying to eliminate standing waves by using different location sources but how do you get two speakers to have the same displacement without powering the second speaker to the same level as the first??? Oops, that is twice the power is it not? Want more output, stick it in a corner. If you want smoother responce, stick another elsewhere in the room and adjust locations to get the best overall response(height above the floor might also impact standing waves so do not eliminate that as a varied location.)

Bill Shenefelt
http://sheneskillies.com
william.shenefelt@verizon.net
Bill Shenefelt is offline  
post #20 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 04:07 PM
AVS Special Member
 
audiovideoholic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Murray KY
Posts: 2,662
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 202 Post(s)
Liked: 97
Your wife ROCKS! I had to spend over an hour showing my wife how good of a deal I was getting on a pallet of 8 FTW 21s plus the price of wood over multiple of offerings from big names like JTR, Danley, Seaton, etc... But atleast she understood why I went with the 21s and approved without any complaining. Glad this community has wives like this or there would be a lot of us living single.

Go for big vented enclosures. Do a FR test to see if filling to two sections could be an option and plan to stack as many high volume drivers as possible. That's if they are worthy spaces to house the subs, if not then idk lol.
audiovideoholic is offline  
post #21 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 04:12 PM
AVS Special Member
 
eljr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Futuristic London
Posts: 5,456
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 570 Post(s)
Liked: 2829
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
The wife wants subs.
I love the name of this thread.

What you got back home, little sister, to play your fuzzy warbles on? I bet you got little save pitiful, portable picnic players. Come with uncle and hear all proper! Hear angel trumpets and devil trombones. You are invited.
eljr is offline  
post #22 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 04:31 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Danielson99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,890
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
My wife decided we needed two 18" subs. The lady needs some subs.
I have seen this and I can't help but warn you. This is a set up, trust me. She's bating you with subs and you think you're getting them for free....but you must see through this and be ready when the time comes to defend yourself. I don't know how many times I've seen guys have their wives suggest they get a new sub....and within' a couple months they are drying dishes and vacuuming. Make sure you get everything in writing!
gw742296 likes this.
Danielson99 is offline  
post #23 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 04:50 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Bill Fitzmaurice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 10,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 1986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Shenefelt View Post
I agree it is the smoothing of response trying to eliminate standing waves by using different location sources but how do you get two speakers to have the same displacement without powering the second speaker to the same level as the first???
Smoothing of response is accomplished by having two subs exciting different boundary sourced nulls at the LP, not by eliminating standing waves. When two speakers are both powered to the same level the total cone displacement is doubled compared to one, giving a 6dB increase. When power is doubled into one speaker displacement is not doubled, because displacement is linear with respect to voltage swing, not power, and the increase is 3dB. If voltage swing into one speaker is doubled excursion is doubled and the result is 6dB.

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
Bill Fitzmaurice is offline  
post #24 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 11:38 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,907
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1081 Post(s)
Liked: 1477
"Smoothing of response is accomplished by having two subs exciting different boundary sourced nulls at the LP, not by eliminating standing waves"


placement can cancel some standing waves. for example, subs on opposite walls cancel odd order modes.

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is online now  
post #25 of 109 Old 06-13-2014, 11:50 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 6,277
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1618 Post(s)
Liked: 1378
Sounds like two minimarty are going to be right for you. I just finished my horizontal minimarty and my other one is vertical.


I will be posting a video build of the horizontal one in a.couple of days in my video sub build thread. Might be helpful for you.
chalugadp is offline  
post #26 of 109 Old 06-14-2014, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
So I got a bit antsy and decided to just build something. I figured start off with the one box then go back. The guy at home depot took almost a hour to cut just the one box. I didn't have the heart to make him do another.



Cutting my holes and finishing the box hopefully today, gata pick up a router from my dads. That uxl18 looks awesome with a bunch of power to it but no idea how I would get one anytime soon. SI called me back to let me know the subs should be available when they noted on the site and the Dayton 18's are pretty much it for in stock options at this time.
lemonslush is offline  
post #27 of 109 Old 06-14-2014, 09:11 AM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 6,277
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1618 Post(s)
Liked: 1378
Looks good
lemonslush likes this.
chalugadp is offline  
post #28 of 109 Old 06-14-2014, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
lemonslush's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 957
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 425 Post(s)
Liked: 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Looks good
chalugadp you are obviously the Marty Sub box man. Yours look amazing.

That Uxl18 would be ideal if I only had the one sub ( and if they were available to purchase). Should I just go with the Dayton's? Does that 600 vs 900 rms compared to the SI really make a difference.

I figure with a 6000 or 3000 it would be giving it plenty of power.
lemonslush is offline  
post #29 of 109 Old 06-14-2014, 10:19 AM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 6,277
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1618 Post(s)
Liked: 1378
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonslush View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp View Post
Looks good
chalugadp you are obviously the Marty Sub box man. Yours look amazing.

That Uxl18 would be ideal if I only had the one sub ( and if they were available to purchase). Should I just go with the Dayton's? Does that 600 vs 900 rms compared to the SI really make a difference.

I figure with a 6000 or 3000 it would be giving it plenty of power.
Thanks,
You can give the si 1100 watts and the Dayton about 1500. That 400 watts is maybe 1db. The big advantage of the si sub's is for two with dual coils (d4) you can wire them for 1100 watts each on inuke3000dsp. Dayton's single coil will only get 600 watts. That's a total of 5dbs together difference.
chalugadp is offline  
post #30 of 109 Old 06-14-2014, 10:20 AM
AVS Special Member
 
chalugadp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 6,277
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1618 Post(s)
Liked: 1378
If you get inuke6000dsp either driver is great.
chalugadp is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

Tags
diy 18" sub inuke

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off