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Old 07-21-2014, 06:08 AM
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Hard to really tell but it doesn't look like you are at xmax. Just listen to your driver to see if you are hearing any mechanical issues or popping. If you bottom out the driver, you will easily be able to tell. It looks good to me and nice sub build. That scene is an awesome scene with 5hz content that is really loud. It should have the fans on your inuke spinning fast and loud.
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pain Infliction View Post
Hard to really tell but it doesn't look like you are at xmax. Just listen to your driver to see if you are hearing any mechanical issues or popping. If you bottom out the driver, you will easily be able to tell. It looks good to me and nice sub build. That scene is an awesome scene with 5hz content that is really loud. It should have the fans on your inuke spinning fast and loud.
The Inuke fans are definitely spinning! I'm debating whether or not to replace them because they're really only loud when the movies themselves are loud. And on really quiet movies I don't even have my sub on. PLUS, my original PS3 is loud as hell anyway! Probably louder than the Inuke!
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
SXRDISBEST -> I do not own this woofer, but I own one that has about half the XmaX, and I would think you could at least double that.... But someone else will know better than me.
I think you're right. I'm guessing I'm only at about 10-15mm for most content.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:18 AM
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Yes my subwoofer XmaX is probably around 11mm, and mine moves maybe a bit more than yours when I push it. For your reference I use a SVS PB1000. Your subwoofer is MUCH more capable.

I must be going hard of hearing because I do not mind the PS3 that loud.... But everyone loud varies.

I just order the Inuke3000 DSP and 2 SI 18" D4 subwoofers, I will be making a 2x2x4 cab for them tuned to 17hz. Hopefully I do not run into any problems, and most of all I hope I am not underwhelmed which I am getting the impression you are.

I was going to wait for the Ultimax 18, but for $162 for the SI... I couldn't resist. Also I have heard the ultimax requires massive amounts of power... Maybe you need a stronger amp to get that sub bouncing?
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
Yes my subwoofer XmaX is probably around 11mm, and mine moves maybe a bit more than yours when I push it. For your reference I use a SVS PB1000. Your subwoofer is MUCH more capable.

I must be going hard of hearing because I do not mind the PS3 that loud.... But everyone loud varies.

I just order the Inuke3000 DSP and 2 SI 18" D4 subwoofers, I will be making a 2x2x4 cab for them tuned to 17hz. Hopefully I do not run into any problems, and most of all I hope I am not underwhelmed which I am getting the impression you are.

I was going to wait for the Ultimax 18, but for $162 for the SI... I couldn't resist. Also I have heard the ultimax requires massive amounts of power... Maybe you need a stronger amp to get that sub bouncing?
I definitely don't want to give the impression that I'm underwhelmed. Not the case at all! I was concerned that my Inuke 1000 would be clipping too much with this driver so I actually did order a 3000DSP to power it, which gives me the option to add a second sub if I want to. But, in that case I would be driving each sub with about the same power as the 1000dsp. So, in order to preserve headroom, I may just get another 3000 to power my next build as well.

The reason I wanted more power (and also why it sounded like I wasn't fully satisfied) is because of two big problems. One, my room is on a concrete slab, AND it also opens up into the rest of the house. This means that not much infrasonic bass is transferred through the ground to my listening position, which is a large part of why sub 20hz bass is so great. And it's nearly impossible to pressurize my space because it's so large (about 18,000cf). I would probably need between 8 and 10 18" subs to do that. Maybe more!

In order to take care of the concrete problem, I placed the sub right next to my couch and it shakes pretty violently. I believe this is the only way to get great tactile feel with a room like this.

I think you'll be more than happy with your SI's with those large boxes. Also, I would be very interested in seeing how the UM 18" compares to the 15". They're great drivers, but you're right, at $160 you can't beat those SI's.
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:52 AM
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SXRDISBEST -> Ok perfect, thank you for that, could we get an SPL reading?


I also am on a concrete slab, however my room size is not near that size... What are your exact room dimensions? Huge room you have!!


how close to your couch did you place the subwoofer?


Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
SXRDISBEST -> Ok perfect, thank you for that, could we get an SPL reading?


I also am on a concrete slab, however my room size is not near that size... What are your exact room dimensions? Huge room you have!!


how close to your couch did you place the subwoofer?


Thanks!

My room is about 19' high and opens up into a kitchen, front entry, upstairs loft and hallway. So it's a good portion of my entire home.

Here's a picture of my setup. I tried placing it in the corner you see on the left of my screen, but it was pretty underwhelming in that location. And doing a sub crawl, it actually sounded like it should have been optimal. You'll have to experiment of course, but I think you'll like placing it as close as possible.

Has SI shipped you your drivers yet? Any idea when they'll be in stock?
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:20 AM
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I ordered them they say end of this month, or early next.


I'm so noob could u tell me what these mean hahaha ->
Port bottom?
Port back?
Bottom rails?
Back rails?


Referring to this thread:


Full Vertical MArty 15hz or mini 15hz


Thanks dude!


My place may be like your size, but my room opens FULLY to outside, 4 TIMES!! And opens to a hallway, and a kitchen....So all my pressure gets lost hahaha, why I'm thinking about 2 full marty, but maybe this minimarty it sound real good...


Let me know if you could provide some input.


Thanks!
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
I ordered them they say end of this month, or early next.


I'm so noob could u tell me what these mean hahaha ->
Port bottom?
Port back?
Bottom rails?
Back rails?


Referring to this thread:


Full Vertical MArty 15hz or mini 15hz


Thanks dude!


My place may be like your size, but my room opens FULLY to outside, 4 TIMES!! And opens to a hallway, and a kitchen....So all my pressure gets lost hahaha, why I'm thinking about 2 full marty, but maybe this minimarty it sound real good...


Let me know if you could provide some input.


Thanks!


The port back is the purple panel (there is a three inch gap between that panel and the back of the box creating the port), the port bottom is the blue panel, and the port rails are the pink supports for the port. Those rails run from front to back, and also up the length of the port back, supporting it.

I think if you have the space, you might as well add the extra 8" of height to get better extension. Really the only reason you wouldn't build a full vertical Marty is if you didn't have the space. Otherwise, why not do it!!?
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:45 AM
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SXRDISBEST -> A few have told me such, but other say it will only increase by 1 dB.... So many decisions... hahahha


Thanks for summing that up, I think I get it... At the end of the day I think I will just cut all the pieces like it says, maybe do the extra 8" and I think it will be kinda obvious when I put it together... Or I hope lol
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:23 PM
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"Does this look like I'm getting anywhere near xmax?"


from what I could tell...not really. also, drivers tend to have more excursion before damage than just their xmax spec. xmax is supposed to be the excursion where the driver is pretty linear.


"Awesome scene from Hulk that probably has the craziest bass I've experienced yet with this sub. I tried to place this sub as close as possible to my couch to increase the tactile feel. It's night and day different, when compared with placing it in the corner of the room. I think everyone with concrete slabs should consider near field placement!"


nice video and again, nice sub!
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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"Does this look like I'm getting anywhere near xmax?"


from what I could tell...not really. also, drivers tend to have more excursion before damage than just their xmax spec. xmax is supposed to be the excursion where the driver is pretty linear.


"Awesome scene from Hulk that probably has the craziest bass I've experienced yet with this sub. I tried to place this sub as close as possible to my couch to increase the tactile feel. It's night and day different, when compared with placing it in the corner of the room. I think everyone with concrete slabs should consider near field placement!"


nice video and again, nice sub!

Appreciate it! I look forward to the next one. Maybe some DIY SG fronts and center next. For now I'm so set in the bass department!!
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
Yes my subwoofer XmaX is probably around 11mm, and mine moves maybe a bit more than yours when I push it. For your reference I use a SVS PB1000. Your subwoofer is MUCH more capable.

I must be going hard of hearing because I do not mind the PS3 that loud.... But everyone loud varies.

I just order the Inuke3000 DSP and 2 SI 18" D4 subwoofers, I will be making a 2x2x4 cab for them tuned to 17hz. Hopefully I do not run into any problems, and most of all I hope I am not underwhelmed which I am getting the impression you are.

I was going to wait for the Ultimax 18, but for $162 for the SI... I couldn't resist. Also I have heard the ultimax requires massive amounts of power... Maybe you need a stronger amp to get that sub bouncing?

You won't be underwhelmed. That will be a huge jump from the pb1000. Any reason why you are going with dual opposed and not duals? If you have options for different spots you can put a sub, I would go with duals.
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Old 07-24-2014, 12:36 PM
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Pain Infliction -> Sorry I was unclear. I will be making 2 full sized Marty subwoofers. i wanted to make them vertical, but I think I may just make them the normal way, to avoid me messing it up...

I just don't understand the slot port... It seems to me like if I do vertical it requires a back and bottom slot port...?

IDK, I will just follow exactly what Donny I think his name is, and follow the youtube video. A friend said he will help me with ALL the cuts, I'm just a bit scared with the assembly as I have no wood skills at all. My friend may be able to help me there.
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Old 07-24-2014, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
Pain Infliction -> Sorry I was unclear. I will be making 2 full sized Marty subwoofers. i wanted to make them vertical, but I think I may just make them the normal way, to avoid me messing it up...

I just don't understand the slot port... It seems to me like if I do vertical it requires a back and bottom slot port...?

IDK, I will just follow exactly what Donny I think his name is, and follow the youtube video. A friend said he will help me with ALL the cuts, I'm just a bit scared with the assembly as I have no wood skills at all. My friend may be able to help me there.
This picture should help. This is a mini Marty but you can see how the port goes up the back. Same with the vertical but the dimensions are longer for the back port panel with the vertical design.
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:01 PM
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SXRDISBEST -> Awww ic, so all the martys use 2 slot ports on bottom and back, to increase the length for lower tuning... That makes sense, and they connect flush... That clears up sooo much of my confusion! Thanks a lot!
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
SXRDISBEST -> Awww ic, so all the martys use 2 slot ports on bottom and back, to increase the length for lower tuning... That makes sense, and they connect flush... That clears up sooo much of my confusion! Thanks a lot!
Great! It's really one port, that has a 90 degree angle in it. Well, if you want to get even more technical, it's three ports of equal length because of the supports.

I say get building so we can see the results!!
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smittyfit View Post
SXRDISBEST -> Awww ic, so all the martys use 2 slot ports on bottom and back, to increase the length for lower tuning... That makes sense, and they connect flush... That clears up sooo much of my confusion! Thanks a lot!
No! The regular full sized MartySub has a slot port of 3" high by 22.5" wide by 36" deep. The enclosure is 48" deep so no 90 degree bends are necessary!

(This may be irreverent if you were referring to any other variations of the MartySubs, such as the MiniMarty or the MartyCube as I am unfamiliar with their slot ports z)
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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No! The regular full sized MartySub has a slot port of 3" high by 22.5" wide by 36" deep. The enclosure is 48" deep so no 90 degree bends are necessary!

(This may be irreverent if you were referring to any other variations of the MartySubs, such as the MiniMarty or the MartyCube as I am unfamiliar with their slot ports z)
Yeah, I was referring to the vertical version. Sorry that wasn't clear.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:58 AM
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Martycool007 SXRDISBEST -> Which one only has 1 slot port? Could you post a pic that shows it? And the cutout? I think I rather make that one, as this is really confusing me hahaha...


I want to make the easiest one... And if they are all about the same, I think I will just make the marty that I can put my speakers on top... I want to use the full size as my wife does not care about the size of the units, and I would like to maximize the output.


Technically how is it 3 ports


Thanks a lot guys!! Sorry for all my back and forth... I'm such a noob.


I have a friend who is going to help me next weekend. This weekend is out of the question as it is my anniversary.


Also can I use screws instead of a nail gun, and instead of clamps?


Thanks guys!
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:41 AM
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it's just a single large slot port, but there's two "braces" in the slot port that divide it up into 3 areas.
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Old 07-25-2014, 07:35 AM
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Bassment -> Ok and the slot port runs at the bottom of the subwoofer and the back?
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Old 07-25-2014, 07:57 AM
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it shows in the picture above. You just make it as long as it's supposed to be, not sure how long it's supposed to be for the marty sub, but yes it goes along the bottom and then up the back. The opening to the port is on the front face of the sub.
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:01 AM
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Bassment -> Thanks for clearing that up!!

Cheers!
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Old 07-25-2014, 08:12 AM
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according to martycool above the ports only 36" long so it doesn't go up the back, just along the bottom, if the 4 foot long portion is the bottom. Or if you're making it vertical it could go on the bottom then the back if you're still doing a front port. If you do a top port then it just goes along the back.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:14 PM
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Bassment -> The one you made, does the port just go on the back or bottom and back?

I'm thinking 1 port would be easier... But then I guess it may need more bracing if just one port?
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:20 PM
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The sub in my signature is sealed, it has no port. The ported sub I made has the port along the bottom and the back.

Either way it's just one port. The shape is just different, ones a straight line, the other is an "L".
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:21 PM
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Bassment -> Is your ported a FULL size, or mini?
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:29 PM
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Bassment -> I'm debating if I want to make the subwoofers regular to use as speaker stands, or make them vertical to maximise floor space... What do you think is best?
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:32 PM
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lol, my ported sub is just a ported sub. Marty is a specific box design, I did not do any kind of marty.

Just make them vertical, for the 1099's you only need like 1 foot high stands. The boxes would be too tall even on their side for stands. You could do the port how the design shows, and just move the woofer cutout, so you don't have to change the port. It's fine if the port is pointing up out the top.
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